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Does yours gave the spring loaded metal/plastic flap inside pipe. On my sons MK1 it looks like there is a plastic insert and flap which narrows pipe so only petrol nozzles fit. Alasdair

Hi did you sort out the problem

Agree - if you want weaker tyres to let go, you want the fronts rather than the rears. I'd put money on the rear ARB if there's a twisting effect. As Occy says, get something a little stiffer and get new rear droplinks too to make sure you cover off those as well.

Thanks.....you were spot on....turns out to be 2022 model on 23 plate

There is Virtual Cockpit, which was a cost option on mine (MY21). Some time later I recall that all models were to get a limited functionality version (Digital Instrument?). I can get the layout you're talking about on mine, perhaps the one you looked at had the regular digital dash. That said I don't know much about post facelift models, but do remember some discussion about the differences between the two dashes.

Make & Model: Skoda Karoq 2.0 TDI - 4x4, manual, SE-L trim level Colour: Blue Mileage: 114,930 - (please note I drive many miles per week, so this will increase). Price: £7750 (negotiable in person) - The car is also listen on AutoTrader if you would like to see more pictures and also a picture with the history of the car. Description: Used car, with some marks outside, like stone - chips, all wheels are touched but not kerb- I think from car washing, everything works as it should, stone chips, small scuffs and scratches, definitely not a perfect car, but one that was vell cared for, with the majority being motorway miles. I am the 2nd owner. The car is currently financed; I can clear the finance in the presence of the new buyer. The V5 logbook is in my name. Road Tax is £200 per year, and I can provide digital service history from purchase to present upon request. Tyres were changed less than 6 months with Continental All Season Tyres. Includes 2 keys, a spare wheel, and all standard equipment. The car has a full tank of AdBlue and currently over 3/4 of a tank of diesel. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: 9 Oil changes from the car was produced till present, invoice for cam belt done and also haldex oil changed. Extras: SE-L trim level which is coming with VarioFlex seats, heated front seats, heated steering wheel, rear - camera, front/back parking sensors, navigation system integrated plus Android/Apple Car Play Mods: Extra security added on the car. Shipping: Available upon payment of a non-refundable deposit (distance dependent, to be agreed prior to travel). Collection: Yes from Sheffield Pictures: see below Selling due to upgrading to an electric vehicle for my daily commute.

I am repeatedly getting a prompt to perform the same update (Columbus MY21) on almost every journey. It relates to a 'UI overhaul'. If I press Update the screen clears and I see no further messages. If I press More Info I get the info screen from where I can update, and this path results in a message eventually appearing saying the update is complete and will take effect the next time the car is started. Anyone know how to force an update to stick, or otherwise get around this, it's becoming annoying. Many thanks

Thank you for the reply! It is actually the original tank since I bought the car brand new in 2018. There is no tag "Mit Silicat". Now my Skoda is in 70 000km so was checking to pump out all the G13 from system (had done it when car was 4 year and 35000km). And in the search I found out that G12evo is replacing G13 but to replace the expansion tank in case is silica double-walled type. It does not have any silica bag inside, that I have been inspecting carefully. AI engines says that 6Q0 121 407 / A / B was already used on earlier Fabias, long before the later 5Q0... silicate-reservoir issue, Since there is no problem with the tank I was thinking to keep it if is silica and replace later on a damage or leak.

Yeah, that's my plan to take all the wiring, CCN, and connectors from a higher trim Fabia. I'm going to the junkyard next week. My plan is to basically to expose the CCN, and than start from the A pillars and trace back the wires from the blue 6 pin connector (T6o/T6n I believe), and also take a photo of mine so I'll know If there are extra cables I need from the A pillar, like the 2 connections trough the black cable which you have mentioned.

Welcome to the forum. Usually the OEM EV is marked 'Mit Silicat' if they were fitted with the Silicate bag (or later) plastic dispenser. It's possible that EV is not original. If the bag is present, it can usually be seen if a light is shined through the EV wall, especially the double-walled type - the plastic dispenser should be visible by removing the cap and looking at the bottom - I'm not aware of any issues relating to the plastic dispenser type though. To be certain, why not just replace the EV for a new one when you change the coolant to G12evo?

Remember that new tyres should be fitted to the rear of a vehicle. As others have said, a bush that has failed/worn to the extent of causing poor handling will be unlikely to fail an MOT upon visual inspection. Just as creaky @travs

Hi interested to get your friend address

Morning all. Wonder if anyone on here could recommend which replacement electric Boot struts they purchased (non SKODA ones). After 11 years and god know how many openings I Think back right has gone. I can see a few on eBay / Amazon and guess they are probably all made in same China factory but just checking in. Many thanks in advance.

575601025E ?

Since the phone still charges through the USB cable, I wouldn’t assume the USB port itself is completely dead. Charging and CarPlay use different parts of the connection, so it’s possible to have power but no data connection. I’d try a known-good data cable first, preferably an Apple-certified one, and test another iPhone if you can. On the iPhone, also check Settings → General → CarPlay and remove the Superb from the saved cars before reconnecting it. It’s also worth checking that Siri is enabled, since CarPlay depends on it. If another iPhone also refuses to connect by USB, I’d start looking at the car side: the USB data port, infotainment unit or its configuration. Since VCDS isn't showing any related faults, that doesn't necessarily rule out a communication problem. If you normally use a wireless CarPlay adapter/dongle, I’d leave it completely disconnected while troubleshooting and get wired CarPlay working again first. Once the original connection works reliably, add the dongle back into the equation.

What tyres have you put on the front, and what's on the back? If you've got much improved grip on the front, and not so much on the back, that's not going to help. Gaz

Gateway 19 - paco_video_parksystem-RVC_compact_smart Multimedia 5F - adaptation Vehicle function list BAP - VPS_0x0B (activated) Vehicle function list BAP - VPS_0x0V_msg_bus (Can_fas) function_configuration_unit - RVC_video_input (ethernet) parkingsystem_video_input - carrier_resolution (1392x656) 6C 0303A300E73000 {that’s mine) what I found iin 6C that only Brand (Skoda Audi etc.) and equipment_driver_side can bring you error and stop camera working rest either it works or it doesn't but you still got picture I struggled with my camera for few weeks I couldn't solve incorrectly coded module error i tried all coding on the end I had to flash new dataset

As others have said the bushes may pass an MOT but they really only fail when they tear, so overtime they degrade and crack and become soft (much like me it seems), refreshing the bushes is a good place to start. There are so many on these cars I would start with ARB bushes and then look at things like swing arms etc. I had mine on the ramp recently and I was looking at the state of the bushes and thinking I should probably start a refresh as they are looking a little worse for wear after 11 years.

The bushes may look ok and get through MOT but overtime they get worn out with too much play. Did my old volvo years ago as it was like driving a boat. New bushes all round and it was like new again. Went for standard rather than poly mainly due to cost. Maybe start with antiroll bushes and take it from there. Alasdair

Nice, do these replace the standard lights??? do you have a link for them please

We also have a diesel car hence the momentary lapse. Normally we would not be able to put the diesel nozzle in the petrol neck. Yes I thought of stickers but wanted a fool proof solution.

And 6C is coded to Octavia MK4 NX : 03032200A53000

I think you’ve answered your own question. You don’t need to improve the handling, you need to repair a component to restore handling. It’s likely a worn bushing - could be ARB, LCA, trailing arm, drop link, subframe, shocks, whatever. A common modification for these cars is to replace the stock RARB something 24mm or thicker - be it from a GTI CS or an aftermarket place like Hardrace, H&R, 034, IE, SuperPro, or Whiteline. It makes a big difference, but beware of going too stiff without changing other components to suit.

Hi, I have just unplugged to check if my Skoda Fabia 2018 1.0 TSI expansion tanks contain silica so as to replace it with silica free and completely change the anticoolant from G13 to G12evo. The OEM number is 6Q0121407B. Attached are the photos. I have asked three AI engines but all say is silica free. I just wanted a second opinion so as to proceed with only anti-coolant change to G12evo. PS. the level of coolant is low because I sucked out a bit in order to be easier to unplug to check the OEM.

Bearing out (prepare new axle bolt and protective cap, if old bearing will be re-used). 4 axle flange bolts out (prepare new bolts). Just recognized big crack in my '2016 Octy rear/right guard- so, it's upcoming job for next year. Maybe it's wise to prepare new bearing too. Don't know if they have tendency to bake on axle.