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# ECE 2026.06 29.2 Gb version":{"major":1167955,"minor":26030,"build":1},...,"catalog_version":52 261E0 Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P177_EU_202630_Offline_Update.zip Files inside: 2026.05.27 Downloadable: 2026.08.19 Published: 2026.--.-- # ROW 2026.06 - - - Previous threads: -> 2026.02 -> 2025.02-06 -> 2024.06

Thanks for your reply Paul. I forgot to mention that the sound stops immediately as soon as I lightly press the brake pedal. Tyres in good shape.

HI, recently purchased a VRS with 102K on it. Nice car, pleased with it. I do have a question about oil consumption. I checked the oil when purchased and was where it should be on the dipstick. After 2,000 miles it is only just touching the bottom of it. Too excessive for 2,000 miles? Also, I checked the manual but cannot seem to find the spec of oil in Halfords, or similar. What is the usual go to spec oil please in layman's language. Thank you in advance

@Ianhar You are doing lots of miles so is the car getting charged daily and running on electron and petrol. Do you start runs on petrol and save the battery for use later or how do you work it? Allowing it to warm up is maybe doing no favours as far as oil / petrol use compared to start it and go and do not boot it until engine oil temp is up a bit.

Since when is it possible to access all partitions of the emmc via QNX?

Thanks for Info @pab567

I'm afraid you are not able to have it completed by yourself - it requires unit to be open and soldered, then connected to VM running QNX and then finally all three partitions must be formatted or non-corrupted image must be pushed to the unit. I can manage it but the unit must be delivered to my workshop in Poland...

Thanks for reply. We changed the language to German and when the unit restarted it had reverted to English. How can we or who can format the EMMC? Is it possible to do ourselves or do we need a professional?

Most of the year it'll be mundane stuff, loads of short hops for groceries and (I nearly said petrol then! LOL!) social stuff, but there's several times of year when I do 200-300 mile journeys, which will almost inevitably now require a layover for charging. But the way fuel prices are going and my lack of enthusiasm for the out & out brut power of the RS, I'm hoping that this change will calm me down a bit, especially as I get older and I now have medical conditions with high BP/HF Depression/anxiety amongst them.

I consider it unrealistic to expect zero lube oil consumption in any engine, no matter what materials and tolerances are used. I suspect an analysis taken of oil from an engine reportedly using absolutely zero oil would reveal that the fluid drained was in fact not 100% lubricating oil.

Cheaper models tend to be LFP (exceptions in Korean vehicles) and more expensive models use NMC due to better energy densities. I think it is important to clarify since it may affect how you (should) live with it.

I have no idea what batteries are under this one it might still be NMC (Nickel Manganese Cobalt) and as it's a MY27 car it comes with a 84KwH battery rather than 82KwH, plus loads of software updates & differences

MEB cars have a separate battery heating/cooling loop but share the car's aircon unit for cooling. There's a three port valve that controls flow to the coolant loops.

My understanding (willing to be corrected) is that the Elroq 85 has an NMC battery which means the best procedure for slower battery degradation is to maintain the charge between 20 and 80%. It is ok to charge to 100% for range flexibility on a longer journey, and ok to run down to low percentages if you immediately charge it. It is leaving the battery for a long period at either higher or lower limit that causes the greatest degradation. LFP batteries (in the Elroq 60) are different insofar as they are far more tolerant of extended periods at the limits and even benefit from regular (weekly?) 100% charges to maintain correct battery level monitoring. I do get very confused on the vehicular heat pump option and what it does. I mean I understand how a heat pump works, and its efficiencies, and even have very effective reverse cycle air conditioning in my house. In an ICE vehicle the heat is supplied from the engine waste heat and the cooling from an engine driven cooling heat pump and the combination allows control of temperature and humidity, so that you can clear the condensation from the windows without freezing your man bits off. So, if you opt for a heat pump then it cannot just be a reverse cycle unit since you need both hot and cold elements to achieve the same de-humidification. Then there is the question of how battery temperature is controlled, essential for fast charging and longevity (original Nissan Leaf being a prime example of the consequences of not managing battery temperature). Does the battery have separate heat pumps circuits or share the passenger cell facilities?

Exactly my thoughts. I am going to contact Skoda directly...

This is the list of parts and costs for the repair (approx £1700). Plus ten hours labour (approx £1500). Socket head bolts with inner polygon head x17 £28.90 Silicon Sealant x1 £41.37 Circlip x1 £7.30 Circlip x1 £7.30 Circlip x1 £7.30 Circlip x1 £7.30 Cap x1 £10.10 Deep groove ball bearing x1 £80.60 Oil Seal x2 £35.90 Cleaning solution x1 £33.34 Plug x1 £6.95 Driveshaft rear left x1 £545 Driveshaft Rear right £561 Gear oil x2 £113.16 Coolant x20 £109.20 Exactly my thoughts. I am going to contact Skoda directly...

That's rather poor given VAG know its a design tolerance issue.

So....Dealer agrees it is the rear driveshaft issue. They also agree that, generally, Skoda DO offer 'goodwill' financial assistance as they know it us a design/manufacturing fault. My car has done 110k miles so basically tough **** 🤬🤬🤬🤬

Do you guys think a Golf VII estate swivel towbar would fit my Mk3 Scout? Golf/Leon/Octavia estate seem to be interchangeable for aftermarket towbars but don't know?

That was a good £10 more than it is when already expensive at £12 a litre.

Thanks for the reply. I've deleted the primary user so there is only guest. At the moment the fault hasn't reappeared so I'm assuming the primary user profile was corrupt. I'll leave it a week then add another primary user and see what ha3

I’ve started monitoring usage and practicality. @NottsIan your explanation makes sense, I need to work through all the various options, maybe I released parking brake manually - maybe the delay is less with one method.

Have you tried doing a factory reset of the infotainment, and then logging in again as primary user? This might help, but I've not heard of anything like this before. If that fails to resolve the issue I think you'll need to goto a dealer, especially if you can easily reproduce the fault. If not easy to reproduce I'd recommend taking a video of it happening. My dealer were receptive to video proof of an issue.

Just done a quote for late September and it's an additional £159, which seems fair enough when the value of the car is £45k

I would dump the oil and pour it into a white plastic basin, as that can tell a story. I plan to do mine once I'm out of warranty.