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I would get it scanned as there is probably a code stored pointing to which abs sensor is faulty or could be broken wire to it. As said check voltage accross battery when cranking engine. 12.3v is 60-70% charge but if a cell is failing it may drop a lot when under load. Might also explain why it happens when rear wiper is on etc. Alasdair

Superb L&K with panoramic (sun) roof, and inner liner/visor. Insects and dirt have got in between, and I recall reading (previous model) a way of retracting the roof, but not the visor, so it could be cleaned. Anyone know if this is possible, please?

Ahh, makes sense, hope this car won't have the same problem 🤞 No rust is really impressive, makes it worth keeping it alive and refreshing some components! Guess the car isn't a powerhouse, so can see where he's coming from, but it's nice that it still will get some use :)

I felt the same, especially as I understand this update is a firmware flash and not a soft update. However in the end I did it, made sure the battery was topped off and sat in the car while it processed - seems to have been ok. But agreed, the quality of the updates and financial consequences when Skoda **** up the updates isn't really acceptable. I'm considering dropping it out to guest mode and no longer having care connect.

I wish to say hello to all here.

I've got a MK4 Octavia with - I think - a Columbus infotainment console. I pay for care connect, and recently got a 12 week trial of infotainment online, mainly with the objective of getting a quick easy map update. Howver since infotainment online was activated voice commands continually try to connect to the internet; the result is they often fail, or at best are slow. Previously they worked quite well; I could ask it to play a particular album or plot a course with relative ease, but now it is a pile of ****e. Anyone else experienced similar or knows how to resolve it? At the moment I can't wait for the subscription to end, and I will not ever pay for it, guess you could say the free trial did it's job!

I had a similar episode, took the tyre to a nearby tyre depot they took the tyre off the rim gave it a wipe around and fitted a new valve and inflated it no charge (slack day) no further trouble. There is of course the possibility that some twisted soul let the tyre down out of malevolence.

No further trouble with alarm, roof blinds were gaffer-taped together for a while. Now fixed a little better, but still a bit bodgily with hotmelt glue fixing the four magnets in their correct orientation. Front two shown here: This has had the extremely welcome bonus of eliminating a very irritating buzzing/rattling that seems to have been the result of these magnets being loose under their plastic rivet fasteners. This has made me very happy.

@Alasdair1 I checked it now and it is around the range you mentioned. It is around 12.3 and 14.5 when running. I read a lot of comments that also the ABS sensor causes this issue, but what I noticed it, I could be wrong but when I use the rear wiper washer, or when wash the car or a lot of rain. I removed the rear cover to find a little leak which was fixed, but still the problem persisted. I already had the ECU changed 6 months ago. I ordered the ABS sensors and I will change to see what happens.

Has anyone got or had a Scala (or Kamiq) with the factory sound system upgrade? I’m particularly looking for information/photos of the subwoofer/spare wheel/tool arrangement if anyone has that information please.

190tdi SE L executive. 2016. Don’t think they were standard on them. Perhaps more the petrol models.

I find it odd why yours as standard didn’t have the flappy paddles.

Very nice, enjoy!

Lucky you, when I removed the bearings from my 2011 Audi S4, I started with air hammering the 4 screws, then clamped the bearing pack with a suitable big 10.9 grade bolt, washers and nut to keep everything together, then used a hub press plate - that worked nicely! Quite a bit of the aluminium upright in that area was badly corroded and some came out with/on the bearing assembly!

Good solution which probably works better in the US, Australia etc thanks the cramped roads of Europe but might work for trunk operations like my old company did from Morocco thru Spain and France. Might work for 20 foot container trailers better than 40 foot or High cube 40 foots. 30 mpg for a truck is an operators dream.

This seems to be the way (This is the Way). Use different models incluidng this Chinese one in the vid below. Waymo is a Google company. Some yjousands of imports into the US despite the over 100% Ad Valorem tariff. Arriving in many US cities,as well as London and Tokyo. Thirty Chinese cities have driverless taxis, not Waymo but local brands, as well as projects in Singapore and some ME Gulf states. South China Morning PostChinese robotaxis race Waymo to take driverless cars globalBaidu’s Apollo Go, WeRide and Pony.ai are outnumbering their US counterparts with more projects in various stages of commercialisation.https://waymo.com/waymo-in-uk/

Did you drive all positions to the limit? Control unit have kodiaq Dataset?

yes. or supposed to be

All the high-power Mk3.5 Scouts are DSG, but yeah, it's worth mentioning in case someone hates DSGs.

Hi all, the car is Superb GREENLINE III, Mk2, 104 bhp. While driving for a first time after 3 month break the car went in limp mode with the yellow coil light on. It kept coming up ater restarting and the engine light came up too. Engine is shacky and lacking power. Local mechaninc came to resque and with his diagnostic device he found a fault in the 2nd Injector. He recons fuel doesn't get in to the cylinder and for that reason the car behaves like that. Even though he suggested replacing the faulty injector, I have the feeling it could be some sort of a software issue because immedeately after the fault I had START/STOP ERROR on the dash. Had anyone else encoutered such issue and what was the outcome? It make is even more difficult for me because we are abroad at the moment and we have a short time to reqtify this issue before returning home.

There r 3 modules in total on each headlight - 1x power ballast (at the back) and 2x Light Control Modules (underneath). Pic of the two modules underneath....

Great update ... the dipstick in the press had me in stitches 😁

Unit is from Kodiaq?

@HS1970 some answers you may find in this thread(s) -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/537730-amundsen-mib2-map-updates-20262027/

I’m trying to replace windshield wiper motor and linkage. I’ve identified the problem but I don’t know how to proceed with removing the motor. There doesn’t seem to be enough room to remove the motor. Do I remove the black plating, or is there another easier way to do it? Thank you