All Activity

I was told from the garage when they did the sensor that the dual fly mass and rear main oil seal (where the reluctor ring is I believe?) looked fine. So I think it’s unlikely it is that. I’ll try having a look at the relay. Is there any chance that it could be that the ECU is causing the issues?

It's the official way & doesn't damage anything. 😉

I'm experiencing the same issue. Did you end up finding a solution?

I got a decent price for my folks fabia. Even the insurance guy was surprised at how much. He did say that they seem to hold there value. £18500 I suppose isnt too bad but wish they would pay you for the inconvience of looking for another one plus all the hassle. We got a courtesy car when my folks was damaged but when it was written off we had to give it back in 3 days so had to find another quickly. Hope you find something as nice. Did spot this on here a few days ago https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202610146991152?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios-app Alasdair

that's because using the key blade forces the cover off damaging the catch. Using a screwdriver actually releases the catch properly and so doesnt damage it

Indeed, i had an A6 written off with less damage. I fear the damage on mine is structural - wheel to wheel at even 20mph can be catastrophic. Both shocks would need replacing as well, I guess, a Vega 19" - what are they new - £1k? All adds up. I've been given £18500 as the value, and i have GAP, so not too out of pocket.

Cost of repairing cars these days is mad. Had similar with my folks fabia. Damage wasnt that bad mainly front wing and drivers door etc and no structural but got written off. Had another with a volvo 940 that someone reversed into rear door and panel. Again they wanted to right it off or give me a so called cash adjustment ?? I dug my heals in and pointed out that it was repairable. I had just spent £700 on it and as I wasn't even in car at the time so wanted it repaired. Surpisingly the asessor agreed and they repaired damage plus gave me a courtesy car. Chances are someone will buy it and fix it. Alasdair

I was trying to get to the road in which I'm stood to take the image, note the position of my offside front wheel in relation to the kerb - I couldn't get any further over to the left in my approach. The guy in the van was heading towards me and just pulled straight into me. The insurance has said it's a write off and I couldn't take the salvage anyway - I need my car for work and don't have the time or energy to fix it.

No need for screwdrivers, which is probably as well given you're unlikely to have one in your pocket if the battery suddenly fails. Release the emergency key & withdraw just enough until the black plastic clears the case. Then with the fob in your left hand, gripped between thumb & knuckle of the forefinger (thumb under the key to brace), grip the key by the plastic part in the same way. Then exert a snapping motion upwards on the key & the blade will pop the cover off. As I said originally, harder the first time but easier thereafter.

What on earth happened? Are you sure that it is written off

Is the control unit still responding via diagnostics? If not, buy an OEM part.

I have just loaded the 26/27 version and still no villages. Does anyone know if this can be fixed with a firmware update to the Amundsen unit?

GPS Antenne OK?

AliExpress kit ad many other users bought

OEM parts?

Might be dirt/debris on reluctor ring so the sensor isnt picking it up properly or perhaps a bad relay in engine bay. On my old octavia it was I think marked 109/458 (cant remember but it fed ECU and engine sensors)

@Cqrmine here's the post https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/436650-kessy-key-fob-battery-change/ go down to about the 4th post and it shows a picture of the inside of the key and the small tab that you are trying to free with the screwdriver

after a while, vibrations made me have headaches, so i modified insert, i was browsing internet and many people did similar, i cut out some elementr to increase motion from zero motion with full insert, it is not drivable. this is another level, no more vibrations on start and 2 cilinder mode, but holds well on speeding and sporty driving..

I looked at pages 23 and 24 and they don't work for me.

They charge for changing the battery???? Of all the robbing *****

I too tried to follow the manual instructions to access the battery (page 24) and it didn't work. Where did you see the instructions with the flat bladed screwdriver to open the cover?

Cairus, thanks for the reply. As far as I am aware there is nothing wrong with the map data - the issue seems to be that there is some sort of incompatibility between the more recent map data and my Amundsen unit. With old versions of the map data the unit will display all of the map data - however the road layouts and speed limits are not up to date. With more recent versions of the map data loaded, the sat nav works fine, and displays everything except small village names - cities, towns and even street names are all there - but no villages. As a check, I have loaded the same map file into a friends Golf and the village names are displayed, so it must be something with my Amundsen unit. Any ideas anyone?????????????

My 2009 MKII Octavia VRS TDI (engine code CEGA) has had an intermittent issue with the crankshaft sensor for the last few months. The issues are that when I try and start the car it will Kick into life before stalling with the battery light coming on. If I do get the car running then it will seemingly randomly do it as it’s driving. Alongside this the glow plug will Flash and the check engine light comes on (although these don’t happen every time). All Which reset with a key cycle. You can also feel and see the cars revs dropping just before the car cuts out and stalls. When reading the error codes on an OBDII reader I get the following error codes: P0322 - ignition/distributer engine speed input circuit no signal P0321 - ignition/ distributor engine speed circuit range/perfomance So far I have had the crankshaft sensor replaced (with an OEM sensor) and had the wiring loom inspected and replaced. To make the issue more annoying after having the wiring replaced the car ran fine for over 500miles before coming back Alongside this I have a cluster of lights out on the dash, on the speedometer from 70mph onwards the lights don’t turn on. Which i’m unsure if it’s related to the issue or not. Anyone have any ideas of what the best next step would be

Here it is what I read on My system! I’ll try to fit at pen as ex-fat and 4096 byte allocation, but hope it won’t solve the update! Pressing the 3 dots in lower corner doesn’t show the update as @Tell said! I don’t think it may depend on the firmware version!

Last Sunday, on my 22 Karoq FL with this retrofit done I noticed pressure on tires was a 0,1/0,2 lower than the standard value: I pumped them and everything seemed all right. However on the Skoda App I read 3 wheels on 4 has lower pressure and the day after 2 had a very low pressure. Yesterday I went to the tire shop since I believe his pump is more accurate than mine but while going to the mechanic I saw a strange messagge on the infotainment: "System not active"; connecting the diagnosis the message I got back was "system turned off", how can I turn it on again? I don't believe it may depends on the fact I changed from Amundsen to Columbus as I migrate all the coding/adaptations from old system to the new one; furthermore in the they after migrating the system and restoring all the FECs, I was able to read the values! Any idea/suggestions? For a while I thought pressures were too low, but they weren't! I also checked with the antenna who enable the sensors but they were all working!