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I just uploaded the radio with this file and everything seems to be working fine! Thank you so so much 💖

Excellent advice I’ll be sure to check all of these areas the only bubbling I seem to have on arches is front drivers side but theres no doubt all 4 will be full of all sorts once I get in there and take those covers off I’m dreading it to be honest I just hope nothing needs cutting out and welding. The arms do look pretty rusty too so I will replace them If need be. In regards to the the factory plastic stone guard what do people do with it can it be removed? Would it then involve a full spray job.

The same in Latvia. I made plenty of videos proving keyless function not working but never was that enough. You know, the manufacturer says that it's quite normal that it doesn't work when there is a minor rain outside. Nobody told me that this car was usable in dry weather when i bought it, though. And when I took the car to the dealer then usually I got the answer - our technician tested the car and it was just fine. And what do I do in a situation when it works/doesn't work occasionally? What are the odds that it won't work the very moment when the technician tests the car? I made plenty of videos but usually it was never enough.

ive just ordered new coil packs so fingers crossed

@SinisterKid97 Sorry maybe missing stuff reading on a phone. But who did the Stage 1 remap, and what is it, bought generic or a custom map? Is the car running on E5 97 or 99 minimum Super Unleaded?

H

@Graham Butcher 'Experts' that are local residents reckon that Private Flights during the Grouse Shooting season or during Golf Events in the Region are a cause of increased pollution. Their answer seams to be closure of the airport. Ignoring the fact the private flights will land someplace else maybe less that 30 miles away increasing pollution there. http://thecourier.co.uk/fp/business-environment/transport/5574581/experts-dundee-air-pollution-airport

Car back from the garage. The startup chugging was nothing to do with the diverter valve, and is still present after the GFB DV+ has been swapped for a 'Rev G'. So... I'll likely live with the startup chugging and rattling until its next MOT, and get the timing chain/tensioner replaced, if there's nothing else major that needs doing. The 'Rev G' seems a bit smoother than the GFB DV+. I haven't yet driven it enough to say whether I prefer it on not - "subtly different", rather than "better/worse". The performance is still there, but it feels smoother in its power delivery now, rather than the torque/boost all arriving in one big lovely lump. And as for the lift-off/overrun jerkiness... the engine mount and upper+lower gearbox mount needed to be replaced. They said that the engine mount was 75% worn, and the others were showing signs of aging. I'd already had the lower dogbone mount/bush replaced earlier this year, so that's now all of the mounts done. Jerkiness gone and the lift-off and gear changes feel sharp again.

No you need longer bolts. The bolts contact the wheel and hub - standard thread length is 27mm. If you add a spacer between, that’s simply sandwiched between the wheel and hub, held in place by the same bolts. Because 5mm of thread is now taken up sitting in the spacer, you lose that contact length with the hub; so in order to ensure the wheels are secured to the hub with the same number of threads, you need to add at least 5mm of bolt thread length. Hence, changing from 27mm to at least 38mm. Fortunately AwesomeGTI source them and supply with the spacer (as per the pic); 20 of them (5 bolts x 4 wheels). I then bought a set of locking wheel nuts and replaced one of each of the nuts with a locking wheel bolt.

Just stumbled onto this thread. It's so very helpful as I can't stand the LCD screen with it's rubbish petrol gauge and disturbing lack of temperature display on my fabia.

Hi all, I have a 2012 Monte Carlo in red which is a current run around and cheap/cheerful replacement for a long line of Saabs. It's a work in progress with plenty of tasks (and a few mods) carried out with more to come.

I don't have the facility to re-code the battery. Unless someone near Guildford can help?

Nothing there for me

Why skimp on the coding? It's just part of replacing a battery to give it a good start in life. Electrical components are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations. Your choice!!

Very well indeed. I have been constantly surprised at how good it is. You need to use the gearbox to keep revs up above 1500rpm to get good pulling power, but when you get used to being in the right gear it pulls like a train right up to max revs. Like others I was sceptical of such a small 3 cylinder engine being good enough for a car of the size of a Karoq, but you need to drive one to find out. I have had absolutely no issues with the car since buying new in December 2019 except for an MOT advisory at 3 years that all the tyres were cracking for which I managed to get a 50% goodwill payment from Bridgestone towards replacing all 4. I have no plans to replace the car and as I am in my 70's it may be the last car I ever own.

I have an old mk2 thats now off the road due to rust. Places to pay attention to are Front lower wings/wheel arches especially nearest door pillar. The plastic liner traps all manner of crud and rusts from inside out. Front of rear wheel arch nearest sill and rear wheel arch where it meets bumper. Rear tailgate around number plate. Sills in general. The plastic stone guard becomes loose and lets moisture in. Bottom of doors where they meet sills Under car as you have noticed jacking points, inner sills and floor panel nearest rear/boot. Most of the front under car is covered so not too bad. Check brake lines etc. Rear subframe on mine is very bad as well as rear and front swing arms but they are not that expensive to replace with aftermarket ones if yours are as bad as mine. I am in a high salt area so corrosion is a major problem. I tend to buy cheap higher mileage cars and run them till they die. Mechanicly they are sound but alas the dreaded rust kills them. Alasdair

Just received my drivers side rear trim today…Found someone on eBay.de who was selling some new trims…Arrived quickly with no problems. £55 posted seemed a bit easier to swallow Just wondering what’s the best adhesive to use to make sure it doesn’t come off again. The trim fits into a “rubbery” recess. Anyone else used something they can recommend?

"evilsheep": thank you very much for this detailed reply. It is extremely informative and helpful.

I sent you download link for MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L_8755 in PM

Adding to here also as larger number of people with issue. Had the same issue August 2026, ordered new button from skoda parts direct £20 (now asking £40 ?). Dealer wanted £44, so aware of problem and said they had not had to replace whole hand brake only replace button. I had read all posts, so not sure new button would work, but knew to pull control rod out to get ratchet to work. Guess what, yep failed, on a hill in the dark in slow moving traffic Sept 2026. Did not actually see button go when released the hand brake, doing multiple stop and move on, up hill. Reached down to pull brake and felt no button (dont press on pulling). I pulled the control rod out and pulled the handbrake at same time. Wife put hazards on for me and we had to let traffic pass, before trying to move off. Reported as safety issue to central skoda, clearly other manufacturers recalled on similar issue e.g VW T5. Dealer charged £115 investigation fee for known issue, plus £440 (£249 + vat for whole hand brake) to fix, two bits of plastic failing. Skoda parts, which is Skoda, £191, but dealer has to use TPS. Like other gent, needed car fixed quickly. I've raised safety issue with DVSC. All need to do this. Some customers get lucky with new button. But it's an un safe design. We found button and spring in back of car. Dealer said car was unroad worthy...so clearly unsafe. I would have gone small claims, but apparently got to go ombudsmen, they have it sawn up, apparently its dealer not manufacture if wear and tear, but it's a issue with the design in my mind. oh and I've done less that 58k...so less than original warranty distance. Since found The parts catalogues show: Period Handbrake lever Early Mk3 5E0711301B — plastic handle Early leather version → 17 Aug 2015 5E0711301C From 17 Aug 2015 → 5E0711301D Clearly issue with pre Aug 2015 handbrakes. Those that had issue, was your Octavia built pre August 2015. Can any one who had issue post Aug 2015 build post please, so that I can discount it. Mine was registered Jan 2015. But also found skoda technical documents I found a Škoda Technical Service/Training presentation, API 11/2014, covering Octavia III running-gear faults. It has a specific entry: It records: The actual Škoda technical evidenceSymptom: button released and spring fell out Result: handbrake locking mechanism does not work; lever returns to “brake not applied” Cause: locking mechanism with spring damaged and button fell out Repair: replace the handbrake lever Production measure: “Introducing a fixture to fit the locking mechanism at the manufacturer in CW14/2014. So in 2014 Skoda shipped cars with knowledge that the brake button could come off, and did not recall. I suspect maybe CW14 was to handle the leather sleave carefully when installing, as maybe over use/damage could allow spring and pawl to release. Very dangerous. Note I had started parking car on sloping drive this year....

@Framen I have a similar issue on a 2009 Fabia (although my cluster looks different). 99% sure its damp/cold related as it only happens in winter and car runs fine. Also the cluster gives various beeps and lights up like a Christmas tree on the 1st start/drive of the day but later in the afternoon is fine. Never have this issue in summer. Do you have instructions or video link on how to remove the cluster and check the connections? Also, are there places to check/clean for water getting in or behind the cluster. I don't have wet carpets or anything but sometimes it can feel musky/damp in the cabin (and my air con needs re-gassing which isn't helping I guess).

@Johngerard You could use an Octane Booster with 95 Ron E10 bought in the RoI. In the UK the E5 is sold as 97 Ron Minimum or 88 Ron minimum. There has not been 98 Ron Minimum sold in the UK for over a decade.(VW FAQ site has never recognised that as being the case.) Not all E5 in the UK contains Ethanol. It is Regions / Depots & Distribution dependent.

I found one in the notifications list. If you pull down from the top of the screen.

Still no OTA update for me, I wonder if I'm being punished due to previous manual update I have done myself #FOMO

Hi everyone. I bought a skoda octavia tour 2009. And while i was doing some modification and upgrade possibilities, i saw this forum and decided to join.