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Colourful skies this evening and despite appearances it didn't rain!

I sometimes get this when on the A303 heading east coming to the Sparkford turnoff, it ' sees ' the 40MPH sign sometimes , especially if I'm in the overtaking lane ! I just carry on and reset the ACC and it recovers about a mile further on.

@red-ireland friend of mine had similar problem. Then he tried with higher quality cable and there was no more issues. Did you try using any carplay bluetooth adapter ? CarPlay requires a high-quality cable that supports both power and data transfer (at least USB 2.0 speeds of 480 Mbps). "Charge-only" cables will not work.

Ride is great. No issues anymore with shocks and springs. B6 damptronics with Eibach pro kit. Racingline links and H&R bars front and rear. I have three sets of Lower front arms on the go at the minute. I’ve been trying different front bushes to stop them eventually making a slight noise when they dry out during the summer. I’ve tried pre fitted, I’ve worked my way through suoerpro, and powerflex. I’m starting with polish now. I have the blue fitted but it’s starting to emit the odd creak again. So I’ll pull them out and try going up to the orange. I’ve also tried all the others refitted with a range of grease from polybush specific to marine grease to no avail. Just the front now though. The front lower with the tts solid bush is quiet. Obviously for reference, it’s always rebuilt with new bolts and tightened on the ground along with setting the adjustable links again everytime. Otherwise the thing drives really well and still makes me chuckle evertime I use it. The rear bar and links were a great help as well to handling and cornering. Yellowstuff rear and blue stuff on the front with their floating discs. Needs tyres on the front, but I’ve PS5’s coming again hopefully next day or two.

Welcome!

iPhone 12, pixel 8a, oppo find x9 ultra. All of these phones came with USBC and the car is usba so not able to use original cable but most of my other cables are ugreen.

@red-ireland regarding your problem which phone do you have and are you using original cable for connecting to android auto/carplay?

Download link for MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T sent in PM

I have a 2018 skoda octavia and Wondering if there is any update for my unit? @pab567 I have a problem where smartphone disconnect frequently from car play or android auto. Might just be a problem with usb port. Anyone have a doc or video on how to check for loose connection or replace the USB unit? I replaced the original battery less than 2 years ago and the latest one is not dead. I checked for parasitic draw but not found any. Wondering if mib intermittently causes the problem. Thanks Red

Sorry @UndertheRadar didn’t mean to exclude you from that question! Cheers for confirming. Think I need to review your project thread! Cheers @MarioVrs Eibach is a def! Alu subframes all round…?

Hopefully its cured problem. Did read they need coding and 140 euro doesnt seem too bad considering garage prices these days. Glad you got it fixed Alasdair

Same thing happened to me intermittently and annoyingly on minor roads in North Yorkshire. I just pressed on regardless

I fitted mine dry as well as per their instruction. Felt weird doing it, but no issues since.

@Tim Škoda Owner's ManualsOn this page we offer you the opportunity to download the owner's manual and any other documents for the car. https://share.google/i1QFVJKbklQQ5f3Gr

Yeah so it hummed for a few seconds but on my output tests using obdeleven, it hummed for a long time. I got the connector off, it was much easier than expected, no signs of corrosion. The cable was fine, I learnt that trick a bit late. I got a used pump from a breaker for 70e (including shipping). Got it changed at a garage, the job was very easy as you said, I could have done it on me own. Guy charged me 140 for the job including coding (not sure if that was even required, feel like he fleeced me there). All's well now, hopefully I don't see that error anymore!

Just bought a 2020 superb estate Mk lll from big motoring world. Nice clean car but did not come with owners manual. Where can I get one ?

Hi everyone. My son bought a 2023 Skoda Scala 1.0 TST Monte Carlo back in April. It's a beautifiul car. Early in the summer (on one of the days it was 35C) he said that it wouldn't go into gear after having it parked all day, although after a bit of trying it was fine. This didn't happen again until last month when the same issue occured. Over the last few weeks he says it's been happening more often, although it is still only intermittent. As there was no record of the car having it's brake fluid changed at 3 years he had this done at our local garage yesterday, along with the clutch fluid as we know it's shared. The garage said the fluid was low, and now that's all done. He was hopeful that that was the problem sorted but it happened again this afternoon. This time I was able to get into the car and feel it for myself. The gear change felt stiff and required more of a push than usual to get it into gear. Lifting and then reengaging the clutch resolves the issue. A quick search on the web suggests lubricating the linkages in the engine bay with lithium grease - that looks easily doable and worth a go, but I'd appreciate any other thoughts or suggestions. Car has 23,000 miles, full service history - and is no longer under warranty from the garage we bought it from (of course!) Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hello, I am interested. Please send me your number, and I will get in touch.

just bought a superb estate from big motoring world the car is excellent

Here is the breakdown for the facelift LED fog light retrofit on Skoda Superb MK3. On the old pre-facelift fog lights, Pin 1 was the main power wire with a 1.5 mm² cross-section, and the other pin was ground. On the new facelift LED fog lights, the pin layout is different: Pin 1 is for the 0.5 mm² PWM signal wire, and Pin 3 is for the 1.0 mm² main power wire. Because of this, you must swap and re-route the pins during installation. Specifically, you take the original 1.5 mm² power wire from the old fog light harness and move it from Pin 1 to Pin 3 on the new connector. Then, you take the new 0.5 mm² signal wire coming from the headlight and connect it to Pin 1 on the new fog light connector. Because you are splitting the functions between two different pins and wires, you must also change the channel assignments in the BCM (09 Central Electrics) module accordingly. In the BCM adaptations, set Lampentyp for the Signal Channel (Pin 1, 0.5 mm² wire) to 6 - LED-Lichtmodul to deliver the low-current PWM control signal. For the Power Channel (Pin 3, 1.0 mm² wire on channel 55L), set Lampentyp to 32 - Allgemeine LED bis 12W or 36 - LED Kleinleistung to provide a constant 12V power supply without pulse modulation and ensure correct diagnostic fault monitoring.

Yup, also probably need to use my glasses more than I do. Now to see if 10/11/12/13 is going to be the correct and if to do staggered

It can happen ... sometimes I misread him too. Sometimes he misreads himself also 😁 Me to myself ... all the time! 🙃🤪

Yes i agree about 034 stuff, very good quality. How does the ride feels with your set up? I'm quite happy with mine atm. Still want to fit Eibach springs but that will be after Christmas Yes mine went in dry 🪒💪🏻

I got a similar reply from them when I asked the question, though they did say that they had talked to VW Group about this and were assured that the driver will get adequate warning indication and so so stop quickly. They did add, back then, that as it currently did not trigger any action going by their prescribed guidelines for taking action, they would still be keeping an eye on how often this was occurring - and considering any change on possible future action based on that. So I'll always advice that owners report to them every time this happens. Edit:- I'd hope that there will be a tipping point where/when DVSA do demand action from VW Group before someone gets fried.

Well I said on the wish list. Doesn’t mean I’ll actually do it…