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Also oddly enough, it was built in Tasmania so has had a massive piggyback ride on the diesel-powered ship. And is that was not enough, it was originally hoped to be suitable to the route shown in yellow (210miles) on the map below but it has a very good chance of being left drifting out of control if the seas are a bit rough, so instead it is going to be used for the red route (32miles) instead.

Could be the aircon drain hose is blocked or failed. If you put air con on max for 20 mins there should be drips under car from drain hose. If its dry then its either blocked or become unattached. The underlay of the carpet acts like a big sponge so you need a lot of water to get carpets soaking. Alasdair

Yesterday, I downloaded the V6.0.1 free over-the-air update for my brand-new Enyaq SportLine 85X. The download took just over an hour. During this time, you must be out of the vehicle with it locked, and Kessy locking is disabled. When I returned, everything initially seemed normal: the usual functions worked, and I could select Drive and Reverse. I drove to a local shop without any problems and used ACC. However, when I came back, the driver’s dash display was not working properly, although the infotainment system started normally. I could no longer select B/D or Reverse. I tried several hard resets of the infotainment system, but nothing changed. I then locked the vehicle, waited 15 minutes, and tried again to engage drive, but the problems remained. The driver’s dash repeatedly cycled through every possible fault warning, so I called Skoda Assist. The technician found that the 12V battery was completely flat. I do not know what caused this, as I had driven 80–90 miles the previous day without any issues. The lights were not left on and the vehicle was locked overnight. The only other use of the 12V battery had been the download the following morning, which took more than an hour. Skoda Assist in the West Midlands had helped two other new Enyaqs in recent days after the same V6.0.1 upgrade. Both eventually had to be recovered to Skoda dealerships. My technician reviewed WhatsApp messages about the fault from the other two technicians. He fast-charged the 12V battery and carried out a Terminal 30 reset, but two faults remained: SOS Call and the Traffic Sign Recognition functions. The driver’s dash and infotainment system were also blank, and the ACC and parking camera system were not working. On the plus side, both Drive and Reverse could be engaged. The technician suggested that we drive the short distance to my home, where he would try another Terminal 30 reset and connect his laptop to the car’s system to work on the data bus. To his credit, he kept trying and eventually appeared to resolve everything, including clearing the two errors shown on the infotainment system under ‘car’. I had similar problems after a major software update on my previous 2021 Enyaq, which was carried out by the dealership and included replacing the 12V battery. After the upgrade, the infotainment system kept failing, the headlights would not work, false Multi-Collision Braking warnings occurred (the brakes came on with traffic safely approaching on the other side of the road, and several sensors became unreliable. This required yet another visit to my local Skoda dealership. I am now concerned that new 2026 Enyaqs may have similar issues with their 12V battery. Given that three cases have occurred in the West Midlands alone and the software upgrade has only been available for a few days, I strongly suggest waiting until others report a trouble-free upgrade before installing it. Has anyone else experienced issues with either of the following? · The V6.0.1 upgrade · The 12V battery on 2026 Enyaq not charging properly, or running down so far that the vehicle will not start and no systems work I sincerely thank the Skoda Assist technician from Birmingham, who went the extra mile to fully sort out my Enyaq. I only wish I could remember his name.

Have you had your AC checked for leaks? Have you replaced the pollen filter?

I'm in the process of selling my 2014 Octavia and would like to access the online logbook of the car... (This online version replaced the book with dealer stamps in it) I contacted my current Skoda garage and they sent me only the last 4 years of service/warranty information & said that that was all the information they had. I've used 3 different Skoda garages in the lifetime if the car. I cannot add the add the Octavia to the My Skoda app because it says it's not supported by the app. How can I get a list of all the work performed on the car? Services I have the invoices, however, I've had several warranty/free work done where they didn't provide any paperwork because Skoda paid for the work? ( TIBs - xenon ballasts, door rubber seals, air bags, water pump) Shouldn't an approved Skoda dealer be able to give me the full history despite using different garages in the past or do I need to request this from Skoda directly? Gabbo

Oddly two stroke diesels are more efficient than 2 stroke with slow speed marine diesels. Big part of the reason for piggy backing is not range etc but the ferry probably is biult for inshore waters and very flat bottomed and not suited at all for deep sea travel and it would have very poor rough weather handling capability even though displacing a few thousand tonnes.

I have a 2016 1.6 TDI DSG estate with A/C. There is often a damp smell in the car and the air blowing out of the dashboard vents feels humid. The steering wheel feels clammy sometimes too. Sometimes there is condensation on the inside of the windscreen above the windscreen vents - as if humid air was being blown onto the windscreen. This seems to improve a bit if the AC is switched on, but not entirely. There is no evidence of any water inside the car (damp carpets etc). I wonder if there is some water drain pipe somewhere from the ventilation system which is blocked. The AC, the fan, the heater etc are all working ok - there is just a often this humidity in the air. This was even evident during our long summer when it didn't rain for months - so I can't believe it is rain related. Any suggestions gratefully received. Thanks - Joe

Awesome, I’m happy it worked!

I love the irony of it being delivered by a submersible heavy lift ship powered by a 17,000hp two stroke diesel engine.

Ours is still on 302. Got update notification just now and pressed update but nothing happened again. Checked an hour later and still on 302

The morning session has gone well. The challenges were: Despite being a Classic spec car, it has plastic undertrays that have to drop at least partly to get to the places that handbrake cables emerge. And of course most of those steel clips that hold it onto studs on the underbody were 'crumble to dust' status 24 years on from build. These clips that attach the cable to the underside of the rear beam are pure evil. The handbrake cable rubber grommet was well stuck in there, as per hatboy's video posted above. (Rotary) Wire brushed clear of loads of white aluminum oxide before fitting new cable into it (tried without and it was about 8mm shy of full insertion). For those who didn't watch the vid, it's these alloy tubes that the rubber bits stick fast into That's a spare I kept from last time I did this job, and used new tubes. The bearing showed up and the rear end is now all done. Just front bumper to do.

Hello, please can you describe me your issues with Wireless Android Auto? Thank you.

Hi, I did the oil change 2 days ago. The 161mm oil filter was the correct one. It is more faff than our old SII.... The tray is fixed with more bolts and different sizes. There is another part - a V488 heat assist pump - that you have to unbolt and swing out and then not mix up all your Torx screws before you get to the oil filter housing. Then you drain oil from it with a 10mm hex and to unbolt the housing you use a 26mm. Oil fill on the DTUA is 5.5l.

With a project cost of $200 million, the largest fully electric ship and largest battery electric vehicle of any kind in the world has just arrived in Uruguay for the Colonia-Buenos Aires route. Electric ferry delivery.mp4

For me 0334 has not only fixed the continued update issue it's fixed the connection issues I had with Wireless Android Auto

Hi - looking at the Travall and Guardsman dog guards (plus the dividers). We'll need to be able to drop the single split seat with the guard fitted, in order to load a cello. Does anyone who has either of these guards know if it is possible to easily drop the single seat back with the guard still fitted and whether the fittings obstruct the load space? The Guardsman guard appears to hook on to the seat back tethers, so I assume you have to loosen and unhook every time you want to drop the single seat. Which seems a bit of a pain. The Travall one fits to the load lashing points so doesn't seem affected by dropping the single seat, but do they encroach much into the load bay and/or present a gap where he can get a leg stuck? (He's not very bright - if it is possible, he will manage it). Any advice?

The front assist issue is caused by dirty or frozen sensors, happens on all versions of the Mk 4. Not sure about the others though, sounds like the 4.5 has gremlins just like the 4 did. Hopefully an owner with experience of these issues will see your thread 🫰🏻

One has to complain and even politely ask for compensation. I recently got a V2L adaptor for free after complaining on one important issue which they conceded was not good enough.

Dear Experts, All sorted. thanks for trying to help me. regards

Hi @26DIPP , did you change it already? Have you done it yourself?

I spoke to the parts department who advised that the “latest style” wheel caps will fit my wheels. For £20 I’ll give them a go. Hopefully they will last a bit longer than the chrome ones!

Hey, same here! I was bugged with the repeated updates from months and was about to tell the dealer to update the infotainment manually in the next oil change. Yesterday I was notified about this update and that I should not drive the vehicle until it completes. Hopefully that will cure the update notification every other trip.

A further trip to Waddington might be in the offing!

And what really happened yesterday... Coolant and exp tank change went well. Rocker gasket change went well (just two fasteners, M6 nuts, on this AWQ-code 1.4 MPI engine from 2002, 3Nm torque. I'd bought the gasket from ebay, and the little 'grommety bits the studs come through' from Skoda parts,.com, for a hell of a lot less than I could find elsewhere. Bumper came off very easily, and I kinda made progress on gluing various bits, but haven't yet refitted. Bumpstops arrived with the postie, late morning, so that job became doable. 🙂 Lubed, wire-brushed and loosened the lower shock bolts both sides before lunch, including a brief 'oops that's the tightening direction, that won't work' moment on one side. 😆 Bumpstop changes went well, apart form forgetting to refit the little plastic cap that goes on the topmount on the side that goes up into the body. Couldn't live with knowing I'd left that off, so the topmount had to come back down again. Then I thought, while the wheel's off I may as well investigate this drum brake... And that's where it all went to crap. Drum wouldn't even turn by hand with handbrake fully off, despite having moved the car a few yards mid morning, so definitely seizing well. Decided that the shoe set and handbrake cable were getting changed (both bought ahead of time), so thought I'd carry on and disassemble some stuff, despite running low on energy. Realised that the hub/bearing would need to come off to make the changes much easier, as the shoe set I'd bought was preassembled. It didn't. Hub nut took much more force (2ft breaker bar and my full weight) to undo, and even when removed completely the bearing wasn't 'just pulling off freely like they do on youtube'. Turned out the inner race was seized to the stubaxle, and the bearing was destroyed by the time I'd removed it in multiple pieces. No spare on hand. Heat and chiselling required to de-stick the inner race. Amazon delivering a dodgy-sounding-brand one sometime this morning. So the plan for today, remove old handbrake cable, hopefully not seized at the exit point out of the body like they generally are: https://youtube.com/shorts/xzMXu85LUjU?si=6T-_FLKP7GnSQ2VT Then fit new handbrake cable, shoe set, hub/bearing and adjust it all up. Then refit front bumper. 🤞

And whs at is the reason for wanting the dash cam removed, I've had this on a few vehicles going in for service / repair