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The advice from Binx is good - easiest/cheapest! I would actually add, depending on your current/expected workload, to start something you are sure can finish in one go ... or at least with the least amount of distractions! ☠️ PS: have not forgot about the OBD11, just can't find it yet ☹️

Both of those codes point at the same part. In VCDS terms P1103 is 17511, "Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1: Performance too Low", and Ross-Tech's fix for it is to check the heater of the oxygen sensor before the cat. P0130 is 16514, "Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Malfunction in Circuit", and the cause Ross-Tech list for that one is the same thing, the Bank 1 Sensor 1 heater. The sensor has to be hot to give a proper signal, so a heater that isn't working would fit what you're seeing: a reading stuck very low at idle, jumping about, and the heater switching on and off. If the ECU believes the mixture is lean it will add fuel, so it could be part of the high idle consumption too. What I'd check, in this order: 1. The plug for the front (pre-cat) sensor. Unplug it and look for green or burnt pins and a cracked housing, and check the wiring along the exhaust for melted insulation. 2. The heater itself. With the plug off, measure resistance across the heater pins on the sensor side (check a wiring diagram for your engine code, as pinouts vary). No reading at all means the heater is open circuit and the sensor needs replacing. 3. The heater supply on the loom side, including its fuse. 4. Your amp wire. As it all started around the time you ran the cable through the grommet, have a look there for anything nicked, but I'd still start at the sensor plug. If the heater is open, a new sensor is the fix. Clear the codes afterwards and see whether the idle and the cold stumble settle before you chase anything else.

Thanks!

Just wondering what the correct rear brake hose size is for this set up. Octavia vrs, estate challenge. Manual park brake dsg. 2019\2020

Hi everyone, I'm retrofitting heated seats to my 2018 Skoda Octavia Mk3 FL (5E) using the original KUFATEC 43340 wiring harness. Everything is physically installed and connected correctly. Both front seats (driver and passenger) have heating elements installed. I'm trying to activate the heated seats using VCDS only, without purchasing or using the KUFATEC 41899 coding dongle. Vehicle information - Model: Skoda Octavia Mk3 FL (5E) - Year: 2018 - Engine: 1.6 TDI DGTE - VIN: <Removed> - Climate control: Manual A/C (not Climatronic) Installed control modules 08 – Auto HVAC - Part Number: 5E0 820 047 N - Component: AC Manuell H05 1202 - Coding: 02010004000100001000000000400000 - ASAM: EV_ACManueBHBVW37X 003129 09 – Central Electronics (BCM) - Part Number: 5Q0 937 084 DA - Hardware: 5Q0 937 084 CD - Component: BCM MQBAB B H38 0273 - Dataset: V03935283TP - ASAM: EV_BCMMQB 019001 Current behaviour When I press either heated seat button: - The button illuminates for approximately 2 seconds. - Then it switches off automatically. - Both driver and passenger heated seats behave the same way. VCDS adaptation channels found in Address 08 - IDE07948 – Retention of front passenger seat heater level: changed from Not active to Active. - IDE01067 – Retention of driver's seat heater level: Active for 10 minutes. I could not find any other relevant seat heating activation channels in Address 08. My questions 1. Has anyone successfully installed the KUFATEC 43340 heated seat retrofit on a 2018 Octavia 5E FL using VCDS only? 2. Is there a specific Long Coding or Adaptation procedure required in BCM (09) or HVAC (08)? 3. Does the KUFATEC 41899 dongle simply apply coding that can also be done manually using VCDS? 4. Why do the heated seat buttons illuminate for 2 seconds and then switch off? 5. Is there a specific BCM adaptation or configuration that enables the heated seat retrofit? I'm particularly interested in the exact VCDS coding/adaptation values for this specific setup. I would really appreciate any help from someone who has completed this retrofit using KUFATEC wiring and VCDS. Thanks in advance!

Had a 190 on a 65 plate a few years back. Looking at another Superb. How important is DCC to you?

The well known water pump issue is not about leaks. Sorry, I forgot to explain... VAG engineers designed a pump which is off when the engine starts cold. When its hot enough, the water pump runs as expected. The problem is that this pump tends to "stick" and remains off when the engine is hot enough, which leads to engine overheating...

Haha, wonder what the voice command is for that!

Not as yet. I've been following the other thread. There's talk of another update, I think it was in Shop, that some found helped get rid of the message, and I've been meaning to look into that. I was also planning to contact Skoda and ask them about it but not got around to it. So I'm still hitting Later every day, sometimes several times. Worst case it's in for a service in March, they can look at it then. If I make any progress I'll update this thread though.

From my own experience the wireless charging trays in cars are great in theory but poor in practice because they allow the phone to get too hot, which isn't great for the battery in the long run. My Kodiaq will just about charge an iPhone 14 Pro while CarPlay is being used on a long journey, but every so often I get a message that charging will resume when iPhone temperature returns to normal, and by that point it really is glowing. My solution is to use a cable on longer journeys. You can get USB-C cables with right-angle connectors now, and one 20cm or so in length is enough to pick up the phone without having to unplug each time. Happily it coils underneath the phone and stops it charging wireless too. I think until car manufacturers realise that wireless charging trays need their own air conditioning we're better off with a wired charger.

Did you ever get anywhere with this? My Kodiaq has the same issue and it's getting annoying.

Hello Community, 2015 Octavia RS - Sun roof & blind advice needed Sunroof does open and close using the switch when rocking it backwards and forwards. When I hold it forward it will completely close and then start to open again if I keep holding, once fully open it will stop. The sun blind is always open and the buttons to close do nothing. I had my mechanic plug in diagnostic tool and from the tool he can close and open the blind perfectly. He can open the blind from the switch after closing but switch does not close it again. He then closed the blind but when reversed the car for test drive (post service) the blind randomly opened all the way. Blind buttons are unresponsive (he was trying to at least close it as we have harsh sun in Australia). He said one of two things, either switch is faulty OR needs to go to Skoda to be plugged into their system for flashing/update. Has anyone experienced similar? Attached picture of the switch with numbers.

@gold I can offer you a full backup from a Kodiaq facelift model equipped with Matrix LED headlights. I won’t handle anything else remotely; the subject matter is too complex—if errors occur, something could potentially get damaged, etc. There is a complete guide for this on a Russian forum, though it’s specifically for a retrofit. Kodiaq1_FL_Matrix_LED_Full_Backup.html

I wish I had got the same In grey but was 8k more Im happy with the 1.5 👌 Gets me around as I need!

thanks for the kind words - much appreciated. tis going to b 10 yrs of ownership soon and Gandalf still makes me happy & excited. i still keep looking for excuses to drive Gandalf. @RogueWagon - on a few rare occasions, i wish i had got the 280 AWD version, but end of the day, i do wat i can with the 220 FWD i have, and wats best for this setup. i don't have any regrets getting the 220 as its a cracker of an engine in terms of response and also lighter than the 280 overall. hopefully u'll b able to find a happy place, mods wise, for ur 1.5TSi.

I'm half tempted, but I keep finding other things to do. Mine is covered in micro scratches - it has had a good polish with Ceriglass which has reduced the 'flaring' of the light going through the scratches, but it's still not great. Something for the future, maybe.

I haven't used it, but I read that running heating and ventilation at the same time is great for drying wet clothes. I assume that's in case you got caught in the rain, rather than if you had an 'accident'. 😄

Not something you could have sorted? Was it all over? How was it bad?

Looked at one this evening which was low miles (25K), but paintwork was shocking. Would have taken it straight away if it was as good as the rest of the car. Found nut shells in a hidden well with my inspection camera while checking out the waterpump housing for leaks. Worth a look though. Didn't bother driving it due to the paintwork.

Hello everyone! For the past month I've went into a rabbit hole to try and figure out why my car has been running like **** and when I say **** I mean rough idle gas consumption ~1.5-2+l/h on idle when driving and the car is cold it stutters and losses boost and boosts again rapidly. I've fixed a hose that was split open after the n249 (or whatever it's called) and right before the Y split, and the PCV hose after the Y split that connects to the engine. I was hoping that these fixes solved my problem but unfortunately they didn't. These codes still persist. Also almost the same time that these problems started I wired an amplifier and the positive wire I fished it though the gormet below the steering wheel (could I have damaged any wires there?). And before all these, about 2 months ago, when my car was cold when I was driving and I pressed the clutch the rpms would drop like crazy and sometimes it would turn off, and this happened until the car warmed up. But I blamed the clutch switch in front of the pedal that was faulty, could that be the start of the O2 failure; I'm sorry for the long paragraph, but I can't seem to figure out the problem and it's driving me crazy and neither a mechanic wants to spend time to search the cause. Some info about the 02 sensor: When it's on idle the voltage that it reads is 0.020 volts and sometimes it jumps to normal volts, when the car is turned off it reads ~1.5 volts. The heater S1 was turning off and on rapidly on idle. And when I tried to test the sensor it said test off and after a while it that it failed, without giving me the option to test it myself manually My Gallery — Postimages 20261111_164320.mp4 20261111_164154.mp4

You will find these “Advanced KESSY” settings in Car>Settings>Exterior and then swipe twice to the right.

When car key removed from ignition the radio goes into its power down mode. Pressing power button with key removed results in radio staying powered off as it always has. I believe radio is correctly wired- it has been behaving flawlessly for 1 year. Problems recently occurred when new starter motor fitted. If I reverse the red and yellow wires the radio, currently running off switch live, will then be powered on the permanent live. This probably would stop the radio cutting out but would leave the radio powered on all the time resulting in a flat battery?

As you say problems with the older cars but the newer ones are better I have a 21 plate VRS and never had a problem Re the sensor, its because there is condenstion in front of the camera and blocking it, but as you say it clears within a few mins

Hi all, new to an Enyaq Coupe, not new to the forum or Skodas in general..... I've just bought a 2024 vRS coupe. I went to fit my dash cam to it and found a hardwire nextbase kit already fitted - result! Unfortunately, the fuse used was a permanent 12v live (!). I've since moved it to a switched 12v. I've been having app 'no connection' and 'battery protection' statuses. Historically, my Superb L&K from 2014 had a dash cam running from the 12v socket, which, ultimately meant the start/stop 12v battery required replacement. I'm wondering if the fact that the dash cam in my new car was connected to a permanent 12v has caused the battery to fail prematurely. I think it's worth changing the 12v battery to a new one to see if it sorts the app status issues. Has anyone changed the 12v battery? Anything to look out for? Cheers S