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I posted in 2024 on this thread above with my experience. I see that others are affected by it. I went back in my garage to find my old handbrake to take photos, because it is not intuitive how the handbrake works until you see its insides. My car is 65 plate, delivered Nov 2015, leather version (SE L). My problem was that the plastic pawl was broken, NOT the button. See attached photos. Broken Plastic pawl. This ATTACHES to the button, with a spring underneath. The spring pressure acts on the button to PUSH it, and therefore the plastic rod FORWARDS. Sideways view of plastic rod inside the handle. The rod attaches to a Claw (grey colour) via a pivot (shiny silver colour). This picture simulates the Button Pressed, Rod pushed back, the Claw is disengaged from the fixed ratchet (black colour). This picture simulates parked position. Button is not pressed, Rod is pushed forwards under spring pressure, the claw is engaged onto ratchet. This picture simulates button OR pawl failure (or just pressing the button). Without the button or spring, there are NO forces acting on the plastic rod at all, pulling it forward or back. It will be luck whether it engages with ratchet at all. It is easy for the plastic rod to "fall" backwards, this disengages the claw from the ratchet. Note the claw and ratchet is greased. Label on the handbrake assembly that was removed. So you see I had the 5E0711301D manufactured 11/09/15 and it broke in 2024. Very similar to how others found it, button and spring randomly in cabin. Hopefully that helps others understand what is happening. This is why I said in my original post it is not intuititve how the handbrake works because of the way the button and spring interacts with the plastic rod. Lose the spring, you lose the ratchet engagement, and you lose functionality. I still maintain it is a ridiculously non-proportinate critical failure: a tiny plastic breakage of the button or plastic pawl leads to a significant safety problem. You can replace a broken button relatively simply (it is actually an instruction to do this when replacing handbrake cables) but with a broken pawl, you will need to replace this assembly. For those budding engineers, this is a good study in FMEA/FMECA.

They really do look genuine 👍 But, was it an option offered by Skoda? I can't see any mention of it in any literature. Yeah, the absence of the rear parking sensors is odd, with the car being an Elegance model they should be standard. Looks like an aftermarket rear sensor has been installed.

Will try.

Controller 17 Byte 02 Bit 00

Buy a Battery Charger with low miles these modern cars need charging now and then !

After 4 years I'm getting my old fabia sleeper back

Thanks for all your help. Rather than buy the switch and find it won't work, I'll try getting a wire to the ABS module and connect an ordinary push button switch. I still can't understand why just coding 03 hasn't worked to activate and show a dash warning. Perhaps I've misled myself after coding 03, TPMS was actually active and the dash warning reset to off, so I have to drive, then let some air out of a tyre to confirm?

You can turn it off via the steering wheel buttons. For me it's the ones on the right side of the steering wheel. Press the button above the chrome rotary control, a menu should appear in the dash, the top line should be lane assist, press (not turn) on the chrome rotary button, the tick should vanish, lane assist is off until the next engine start.

I wish. Yea 2018 Still no further forward, sent VIN to autodoc and they sent me a link containing 34 parts which is no better than my initial search containing a mix of valeo/denso

4 days ago left home fully charged, and did 160 miles and had 5 miles range left. £3.50 Temp about 10 degrees C and some rain. Windy . Today fully charged after paying £26. 0-3 degrees max. Used 65% of battery in 68 miles. There was a diversion of an extra 10 miles because of a crash. Just put in a charge to 52% to get home. Showing 100 miles range. Still 3 degrees C. I will see how much left to 75 miles. Some 70 mph, then the rest will be an average of under 50 mph. Cold weather and all season tyres.

Single wire, Job from about 20-30 min Controller 03 Byte 16 Bit 02 For Hardware Button

I think 28 must be a typo - unless you have a DeLorean 😁

I doubt you'll find wiring sitting ready for use, so I'd suggest getting that done if you plan to go ahead with this. In case you don't know, KL15 means an ignition switched supply, KL31 is earth, and KL58d is the backlighting supply for various switches, often a grey/blue wire. Getting the wire through to the ABS module may present the biggest challenge if it isn't already present.

Yet another example of an "Italian Tune" being the solution.

That's the problem, with the clutches disengaged there's no engine braking - so the only way to decelerate is by using the brakes, which means you use the brakes more as you're using them from a higher speed. Since I measured no improvement in mpg in Eco all Eco did was increase brake usage, and hence wear and cost. So for me Eco was increasing my running costs, with no reduction in CO2 emissions and an increase in PM2.5 emissions from greater brake usage. Kinda makes Eco not really Eco?

I'd think that the Ceramic grease will be okay, I only use that on the callipers, for the hub<>disc I use a spot of aluminium grease and add extra on the outer side - round about the disc<>hub joining point at-and the projecting part of the hub to made removing the alloy wheels easier next time. It's normally safe enough to give the "barrel" of the old discs a few heavy whacks to release them from their "rust bond" to the hubs. I'd say that I normally intend to remove the discs from new cars and apply a very slight coat of probably aluminium grease to the hub face then refit the discs, if you plan in keeping a car for a few years and also doing your own service/repairs, you'll appreciate having made the effort to do this further down the line as the discs will be free to remove after taking the retaining screws out.

I have already been through that several times - byte 17/18 (But without the reset switch fitted). Are there any other modules needing programming e.g Instruments, Electronics or Gateway? Do you know what's mean't by Module 4C? As soon as TPMS is enabled in Instruments or selected with a Gateway option, Module 4C missing error is given. I suspect that's for the internal TPMS system?

You are using VW 504 and not VW 508 (0w-20)? Mine 2026 Karoq 1.5 TSI, DXDB, petrol only recommends VW 508 so I was thinking not to change it. My other car, Skoda Fabia 1.0 TSI, CHZC, petrol, 2018, came initially with VW 504 so I just keep changing to that oil.

everything is better than factory 30000kms change. my oil is always light brown, no matter what. nothing to clog filter.

Thank you. Very helpful

Didn't solve it yet!

You have to Code the ABS Controller

O.K Thanks Cairus et Al. I think my next step is to wire in the TPMS reset button. I used to see them sold aftermarket with harness, but now I've probably got to manually wire. I hope I can get to all the connection points without having to remove the entire centre console? Sometimes it's nice to find they left an empty connector close by, but probably not the case here. Perhaps after the reset button is operated first time, ABS TPMS software will burst into life - or nothing will change. She doesn't drive her Yeti off road and I'm curious about ESC. She said (To her) there was no feeling of a totally flat front tyre through the steering. Would ESC contribute compensation for a totally flat tyre? I should have driven the car myself to see how it felt.

Dont suppose you have a part number. Try LLL parts with VIN and see whatr comes up then google and there might be a cross ref. Watch autodoc as I believe they are LHD/RHD specific Alasdair

right, I do the same when 20 liter dunks are on big sale! Is it any benefit not to change the oil filter all the time? I always those two are like twins. You change them both if one changes