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Kiss point is point in the clutch movement where the clutch faces touch. Used to determine clutch pressures/ release points when changing gear etc. might be that? Adaptation of the dsg includes configuring kiss points among other things.

I've just heard the use of the word KISS in relation to VAG automatic transmission.( Mechanitronic ?) any one familiar with it? Possibly to do with linking the transmission to the engine?

Can anyone please advise what main dealers charge for the second service on a 2 year old car, low mileage. I live in South Yorkshire

I popped to a classic car meet today and saw a couple of Ford Taunus's (Taunusi?) "Knudsens". We had them as the MkIII Cortina. Dad skipped the MkIII and went from a MkII to a MkIV but the neighbours had a MkIII in orange. Then I googled Taunus GXL and this video was the top hit. The very same car (the one with the Hamburg plates)

Hi I currently have 215/40/17 on my Rapid Spaceback. As mentioned by someone in the thread it is a very hard ride. I am looking to reduce my tyre size to 16 just trying to check what tyres to put on to run best with 16s I’m seeing 205/55/16 as best option, any ideas?

Hmm I guess it must have been an option. Rear heated seats and 3 zone climate was only standard on L&K models I think.

For Sale - 2000 Skoda Felicia GLXI 1.6 - Black - Low Genuine Mileage I am selling my much loved black Skoda Felicia GLXi 1.6, year of manufacture 2000. MOT until 5th January 2027 Current Mileage : 67, 996 - Genuine Mileage I've owned and looked after this car carefully and it has had relatively light use. I've been lucky enough to be able to walk to work, which is one of the reasons the mileage has remained so low over the years. For its age, the car is tidy and has been well cared for. There is some rust around the wheel arches and a scratch across one side and signs of wear an tear which I've taken into account on the asking price and am completely up front about this. Its been a much loved and reliable little car and Im only selling because I'm buying a camper van for my next adventure. £1,750 ONO Happy to answer any questions or provide further photographs/details for anyone interested.

Thanks solved, Halfords 2 mins away so just replaced them and light has gone. Appreciated.

There are two "foam and jack kits" (which includes everything except for the actual spare saver spare wheel, for the Kodiaq MK2. One of the "foam and jack kits" is for the Kodiaq MK2 5-seater and the other is for the Kodiaq MK2 7-seater. Neither will fit a hybrid version where the battery is in the spare wheel well. Both kits are only for a 145/85R18 4Jx18 ET28 space saver spare wheel. There is room for a space saver spare wheel with the Kodiaq MK2 mild-hybrid (NOT plug-in), because the batteries on these are tiny (probably less than 1kWh capacity) and are fitted under the front passenger seat rather than in the spare wheel well. Foam and jack kit (Kodiaq MK2 5-seater) 57H093860C https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-pro-vymenu-rezervniho-kola-18/p/57H093860C Foam and jack kit (Kodiaq MK2 7-seater) 57H093860D https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-pro-vymenu-rezervniho-kola-18/p/57H093860D Space saver spare wheel 145/85R18 4Jx18 ET28 (Kodiaq MK2) 57H601011G https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/rezervni-kolo-18---dojezdove/p/57H601011G

They are sided in that the one with crescent cut out go behind the disc and the one without goes in front of the disc.

Are the brake pads sided or are they all the same? Thanks. AG Falco

My 2024 1.5TSi SEL DSG Karoq averages 50+ when cruising on a not busy motorway at an indicated 70-75. My Leon FR 1.4TSi FR DSG would show 53-54. I suspect that's the affect of the Karoq's larger frontal area. Normal driving around the Cotswolds drops the Karoq to anywhere between 42 to 45. The Leon would be 45 - 50. The extra weight of the Karoq is against it when accelerating or climbing hills. It is noticeable that the Karoq is often 1 gear lower when climbing particular hills than the Leon would have been at the same speed. The 2 engines seem to have identical power & torque figures & curves although the 1.4 was smoother & quieter. Perhaps 50k miles against 10k may explain some of that.

Adding a Oil Catch Can is a great idea, it helps reduce oily air coating valves, piping, turbo impeller vanes and the intercooler. When I fitted mine in 2010 there were not many to choose from I opted for a Saikou Michi one from the USA. See my engine pic' its located bottom right, I made up a small bracket to mount it. 19mm diameter lined silicone hoses are the size recommended for the 1.8 turbo. Another useful mod is to replace the stainless charge pipe that dives down behind the engine on the drivers side. It has a push on connection & o ring retained with a c clip. My one kept leaking and coming off so I replaced the stainless pipe with 06A 145 731D , (there is one on e-bay). The lower end just pushes into a new silicone hose (Creation Motorsport). Dean quoted Bowders 1 post, he was a trail blazer for VRS mods for us all and posted many good "how to " posts and is a good source of reliable info. Good Luck Peter

Thanks Everyone!! Great help, ordered everything and its all here..cheers again

I’ve had this appear twice now. Car is going in for some warranty work next week so I’ll mention it and let you know what they say.

From memory I read there may be two w3w tail light bulbs in each cluster on rear think its the MK2/1z. Not entirely sure but worth a check. Perhaps one has blown. Alasdair

Thanks both, they were pretty corroded, once over with some contact cleaner, no change. (But they not looking great anyway so might change alongside the indicator and see what happens.

Doubt it but heres a link to lll parts diagram. Cant work out if it just clips in place or requires bolts. The part number you gave is no 75 on diagram. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/5wa201429/trim-for-fuel-tank-5wa201429 Alasdair

Yes, the metal casing. Remove electronics first, by defeating the 6 plastic clips with toothpicks or similar. Then undo 4x torx screws, carefully pull out metal housing with rotor and brushpack all together. Pull brushes outward off commutator and spin the brushpack 180° relative to metal housing. Reassembly in reverse order. 6Y1 label will now face the opposite way, and the permanent magnets within the metal housing will be oppositely oriented. Better not to pull the rotor out of the metal casing as the bearing at the closed end can be tricky to realign the shaft into.

Do you mean swapping this 180 degrees? Sorry app playing up. Would be nice to get up and down the coorect way. The wiring diagram I have doesn't show what's happening at the motor. I have swith and control unit but can't work out what controls motor run direction. Given up today as its too hot! 😂

I'm usually driving at the time, so your saying I have to be parked up to update

Hi, Beezy, Pete. Got this motor and the windows do now work. However the drivers one is still incorrect for up and down. The wrong way round. So do you mean swith the motor body around by removing the 4 screws and turning the metal casing a

You cannot normal update while driving. Park the car where there is good signal. Ensure you are not in max privacy mode. With the ignition on activate the update process via infotainment. Wait for a message telling you it's finished before starting the engine. Normally turning off the ignition and locking the car halts the process.

We have a 5 year old Golf, it still gets OTA updates. You must have a registered MY VW account with VW for this to happen. It's the same with Skoda and I also get occasional OTA updates. You must also not be set to max privacy. In both cases if you wish to get the extra information about traffic and map updates you must not only be registered you must pay a subscription after the "free" period expires. Most OTA updates require that the car is not moving. It must be stationary with the handbrake on (in P if auto). The alternative, as mentioned above, is to have the dealer do it. Since the OTA updates never take more than 30 mins a dealer connecting it to VW computer should not take 2 hours!

I am shortly hoping to pull the trigger on a new Kodiaq SEL seven seater TDI AWD. This will be my first Kodiaq after three Superb's, all of which lived up to their name perfectly. The Skoda website configurator allows me to select an optional space saver spare wheel, which is what I need, as every year I get one or two punctures, usually in the middle of nowhere. However, the brochure says that a space saver is not possible in a seven seater. Assuming the brochure is correct and the configurator is wrong, has anyone managed to fit an 18 inch space saver tidily in the rear of a seven seater with the seats up or down? With the seats up, is there enough space and secure tie downs in the boot for a space saver? I am not concerned about appearance. I will be adding a few options, so it will be a factory order with projected delivery in November.