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Welcome to the forum. I thought the Superb was actually biggest in class for rear space.

Another thing I would add is solid engine mounts are not the way to go! It’s a tad vibey…

Definitely you can accelerate as fast as you like and the gearbox will deal with it and you should just see the rev counter movements. The example i can think of when i have noticed the change as a jerk would be slowing down for say a roundabout and then you quickly come of the brake and hit the accelerator because it's clear and the gearbox has to go up instead of it's anticipated down. I never noticed the revs being higher whilst stationary idling in S or D, it just appeared to hold gears longer.

When loaded with 3 kids and luggages for a whole week in the boot, my ex Superb Estate Mk3 rear axle also lowered by 1 to 1.5´´. DCC doesn’t change this…

Could well be a loose baffle in one of the exhaust boxes.

Thanks - which end of the HB cables did you disconnect?

This is a bit of a long one so please bear with me but I am so confused now of what to do. I need some advice. Three months ago I was driving back from probably about 100 mile drive and car went into limp mode with flashing engine management light and then cut out completely. This had also happened before a few weeks before on a Short run but was 30c weather by the time AA came out it started fine and drove fine for a few weeks. P2149 is open circuit B, since then it has had injectors sent away for testing. All came back fine, ECU sent away for testing that came back no fault. The car was then moved to an auto Electrician after a six week wait for a spacefor all the wiring to be checked which has come back totally fine. Electrician is now saying his money is on injectors even though they have been benched tested they obviously cannot re-create the conditions and heat Of what is causing the timing of the car cutting out. Now I’m prepared to do the injectors but Cost is insane for new ones for a £3k car, so my options are by all four which are reconditioned with a 12 month warranty for £330 or by two reconditioned and replace group B which is injectors 2 and 3 I believe or buy new or I could just get rid of the car as I’m not sure I’m never gonna be able to trust it again due to the fact everything is coming back no fault at this stage but have broke down twice now because of whatever is wrong with same codes both times, only happens when car is hot. First Garage who sent away injectors and ECU testing were able to get the car to breakdown on them but since being an auto electricians and the weather outside has cooled down considerably they have not been able to re-create the fault just by idle in the car for hours and none of them really have to have the time to drive 100 miles or so to get it to break they are stuck too. I’m honestly so stressed out about what to do. We have lost so much money in cars lately. Auto electricians are saying is best to fix the one fault in my car rather than buy something else which could have a load of faults and I get that but I just I’m not sure of the best way to do this fix. Any advice would be welcome, especially if it’s worth going down the reconditioned injector route for now?

Tires are fine, they get checked regularly. I'd say the drone is related to engine speed, but then again my hearing isn't the best

Yes to all of the above

Hi all, I’ve owned my Skoda for 18mths and up until a a few months ago, it was all plain sailing. I will ask questions on the relevant pages in regards to my recent issues.

I'm guessing that the new calliper when fitted along with new pads, was free to rotate when everything was "buttoned up". If necessary fully retract the calliper, I know that recon'd callipers come with the instruction that they have been already correctly retracted and so don't do anything to them - but I've always redone the "fully retract" just in case and not had any issues.

Apparent low numbers of EV fires occurring in the UK from the couple of million plus registered in the UK. We are where we are. No word of a scrappage scheme yet and banning them from the roads.

Could be a defective new caliper (not common but not impossible) although might be pads that are tight in the carrier. Have had some that were slightly too large and were very stiff. Slight file of the edges and sorted it. Make sure area the pads sit in on carrier is clean and free from rust etc and check pads arent too tight. Also check the rear wheel bearing for roughness and play as well and make sure the discs are running true and not binding at some point. If the bearing or disc isnt running true it can cause disc to bind and heat up/wear pads Alasdair

Not standard on VRS in UK unless you option the leather seats.

I would say my feed and return pipes were leaking relatively badly, so I suspect it will be improved but I’ll report back. The engine was rocking back and forward on the mounts in time with the hunting so there was a link between the hunting and the rocking / odd noise

I’ve checked the handbrake several times it’s in the right position when released and engaged. I’ve also had the handbrake cables disconnected and gone for drives, and had the same results very hot OSR brake.

Superb did a great job being loaded up for camping. However I am thinking the rear springs and shocks could do with a refresh as it was looking very low whilst loaded up.

https://www.skoda-parts.com/ This is the go to place for genuine parts. If you sign up for an account you can enter your vin and it will find the right parts for your car.

@lol-lol I fear people will be lulled into a false sense of security as the battery fire problem suddenly seems not to be such a problem. This system of a special EV fire blanket is only applicable in ideal conditions. This is not me fearmongering; I'm simply explaining real-life facts. You need to engage the old grey matter and understand that the manufacturers doing that demo had full control over the parameters; in real life, that is never going to happen like that. Observations: 1. The whole thing was staged: location open air meaning toxic fumes are easier to disperse, flat terrain, concrete pad (non-combustible), no obstructions, cars, buildings etc, no access problem. 2. Nissan Leaf has one of the smallest batteries fitted to EVs; the battery was also highly likely to be in a very low SOC, meaning less energy to burn off. 3. Firefighters already there and fully kitted out in their BAs. In a real situation, they might have to drive miles from the fire station to the car, which could be at an event in the countryside alongside other parked cars or in an RTA on a motorway, etc. Firefighters may therefore take a considerable time to arrive at the scene. Then when they get there, they will have to assess what type of incident they are faced with, get their BAs on, get an EV fire blanket from the appliance (assuming they have one), unpack it and position it ready for deployment. Run the hoses out and if possible, locate a hydrant to ensure they have plenty of water. 4. The fire blanket was already there, just waiting to be deployed, which is never going to be true in a real situation. 5. Because of the size of the battery and because it may have been in low SOC, it had probably already burnt off the oxidising agents by the time the blanket was deployed, with no more jets of flames being emitted sideways, flames going straight up (as a normal car fire). At that point, it was likely a normal car fire with all the plastics, carpets, seats, wiring, etc. then burning, the same as any ICE car. 6. The only time an EV presents a different hazard is with the battery; if it is actually off-gassing, it is both extremely dangerous if inhaled and can kill in seconds. If it settles on skin, then it is deadly and requires urgent hospitalisation and special treatment. It is highly explosive; the battery produces its own oxygen, so putting a fire blanket over the car does not stop it burning until the battery electrolyte has been burnt out, at which point the oxygen has been consumed, and the fire stops. Removing the blanket allows oxygen in, and the fire starts again as a normal car fire. Water will then finish the job, as shown in the demo. Had they left the blanket on long enough, the overall temperature would have dropped to almost the same as the ambient temperature, and water might not have been required. The EV fire blanket cannot be used in a car park because by the time the firefighters arrive, the car would be fully engulfed, as would the other cars in the surrounding parking bays, so there is no way a fire blanket could be used as it would not be possible to approach the fire as it would be too large for a blanket anyway. EV cars being transported by road on a car carrier – again, a blanket is useless; even if able to get one over the car, the bottom would be open and oxygen has free access. EV cars on a car ship are again packed in tightly with other cars even closer than they would be in a car park. They are also strapped down to prevent movement in rough seas, so a blanket (assuming one could be dropped down from the ceiling onto the car) would NOT be able to form a sealed "chamber" to contain the fire and stop it spreading to the surrounding cars because of the straps and the shackles holding it down will create pathways for air to enter and flames/gas to escape. As the scientists have already explained many times, if you can use a fire blanket, there is a high risk that removing it will cause a deflagration and engulf the firefighters in flames. So to make it clear, an EV car fire of any type (hybrid or BEV) is the same as any ICE car until the traction battery decides to combust, and that is when things turn really nasty and quickly. This means that firefighters will now have to identify the type of car they are dealing with and then take the appropriate steps to tackle it.

Hello there folks, 71-year old newbie here from Bristol in the UK. Confessions first; I currently drive a 2016 Mercedes E-class - no don't shoot me yet - but am looking to change that for a Skoda Superb in the very near future. I'm not much of a petrol head and look upon cars as a means of transport for me and the wife, who is disabled. I bought the E-class a few years ago as it has the biggest boot of any estates available in the UK and is able to swallow the wife's mobility scooter whilst leaving the rear seats up and useable. TBH, it has been a lovely car to drive, comfortable with good performance but just about the most unreliable car I've ever owned and I've finally decided it's time for a change, hence my membership here. The Superb has a boot that is just marginally smaller than the E-class and that (along with the excellent reviews it gets) is my over-arching reason for choosing it. Having said that, I'm hoping I will come to love the Superb as a reliable, comfortable car so that we can continue to enjoy European holidays without the worry about whether we will we make it home again 🙂 My interests are photography, mostly wildlife but I am also a photographer and web site manager for Green Street Racing Club - a group of real enthusiasts that attend track days and support Mission Motorsport (the armed forces motor sport charity). The support for MM is important to me as I'm an ex-Army veteran with 29 years of service. When not clicking a camera shutter I also enjoy road cycling.

@Cqrmine thats the best way to familiarise for you both to understand the behaviour of the engine and gearbox. 11 years ago my partner had never driven an automatic of any sort. She very soon adapted to the Fabia and its DSG gearbox.

Welcome to the forum. How did you determine that the handbrake isn't causing the OSR brake to drag?

How about Oh that's a good idea. How did you go about removing the cover?

@joeninho Have you had any resolution to this issue?

Great work, but could you explain what you mean by engine 'canting'?