All Activity

Yes same signs as mine

Literally get the car up whether ramp or jack get underneath and grab propshaft near the coupling and try to move it side to side or up and down. It can also be checked visually for signs of perishing. My car has 52k miles so around 80k km?

Yeah I'd never thought about it myself but been getting vibrations in lower speeds and it turns out to be this.... getting the part ordered and will replace soon as possible

Hi @pab567 , I have a Bolero MIB 1 radio in my Škoda: 5E0 035 840 A / HW 041 / MSTD_EU_SK_P3420 / MU 0435 Could you please send me a link to the software?

It's an in-line 3! I work for Ford so no BS. This engine is a copy of our IL3 Fox 1.0L that won Engine of the Year 5 years in a row from Engine Technology International. That this Pcode exists suggests there is also a bank 2 Pcode. Is there something in the Powertrain Controls that explains this? Does it mean pre & post cat HEGO and CMS? I haven't looked, but is this engine both GDI and PFI as per Fox IL3?

I may have missed it, but is this a genuine private seller? An independent inspection would still be your best move - but if the asking price matches or is beneath vehicle status and condition and is acceptable to you, I guess worth a punt.

@lol-lol There has been for decades now, makers like Ford taking cars made by others and badging them. This is nothing new; it is not an EV thing. In many cases the cars are indeed a joint venture between 2 or more makers, where each will make various parts and then 1 will be nominated to do the final assembly. As for the owner taking their car to a firm like Cleevely EV, it is something that only a handful of car enthusiasts would think about, as most owners will stick with the brand's dealer network, especially while it is under warranty. Ford Capri is really a VW ID4 under the skin; hell, loads of people are unaware that Skoda, VW, Audi, Bentley, Bugatti, Seat, Cupra, Lamborghini, MAN, etc. are even in the same group and share many common parts and many cars beneath the skin have the same platform, running gear etc. Anyone following Mat Armstrong on his YouTube channel should be aware of how other brands take parts from others, stick their logos on them and sell them at massive markups, many times the original price.

Many thanks for taking the trouble to respond, folks. Very much appreciated. I now realise what seems to be happening as I did have the autohold activated. Best wishes

Hi @pab567, Could you please send me the MSTD_EU_SK_P6230 MU0490 firmware? My unit: SW Train: MSTD_EU_SK_P3420 MU: 0435 Part No.: 5E0035874A HW: 041 Thank you!

Hi all — car's currently with a Skoda independent specialist here in Bristol, and I wanted to sanity-check with the forum while they dig in. Car: Octavia RS 2.0 TSI Combi (245 PS), MY2022, 7-speed wet DSG (DQ381 / 0GC), 65000 miles. Service history: full Skoda / independent — DSG oil + filter service not done. What's happened: got the alert “ gearbox in emergency mode. No reverse possible”. Breakdown technician’s scan showed two codes: P27F500 (selector lever lock, Park position) and P176F00 (Clutch 2 closes unintentionally). P176F00 has a VAG TSB: if it's sporadic with a frequency counter of 2 or less, you clear and test drive; if it returns or is static, it's guided fault finding. Cleared the codes, drove ~5 min, and P176F00 came straight back with the counter now above 2. So it's persistent, not a one-off. Questions: Anyone had P176F00 on a DQ381 — root cause and fix? Clutch pressure sensor set, mechatronic, or clutch? Did a DSG oil + filter service ever clear it once the code was logged, or wishful thinking? Anyone managed to get Skoda to cover a DQ381 mechatronic as a goodwill job at ~4 years old? Thanks.

Sorry, I have no idea myself but maybe someone will have an answer.

Thought I saw this one a few weeks ago. VW, who make the Explorer for Ford, have a wholly owned subsidiary called PowerCo I gather, who puts together the power packs for the VAG Group and I can imagine the £33K price of the pack, including all its cooling elements, presumable over £10k for all the work to fit, sounds pricey, gets us to the £45k. So Ford would need to buy the pack from Powerco / VW and each make their margin including Ford hence the silly price. I would suppose one would actually go to a firm like Cleevely EV, or scrap the vehilce rather than go ahead with this ridiculous quote. Ford are getting themselves in a bad place for cars like the Explorer which is a VW production line vehicle as I understand it. What is interesting is that it is looking like Ford is set to do the same for the new Fiesta which is going to be a Renault 5 in drag, we already have the Nissan Micra doing this. Ford said many years ago that it wanted to concentrate on design etc and leave manufacturing to Toll car makers. Road to ruin I would have thought. Mr Farley brutally honest. Import tariffs can delay the apparent inevitable which is what US is doing. Dont know the cells within the Explorer ID* but probably Chinese or Korean. West slow to get on EV component production and hence the silly prices of EVs and their components..... https://www.cleevelyev.co.uk/

Hi, You need to put info in the text box not just a title.

On the Karoq, that centre display is the MFD/trip computer, and the options are normally changed using the controls on the steering wheel or the buttons/rocker on the wiper stalk, depending on the exact wheel setup. The garage may simply have changed the display view while resetting the service information. For the brake fluid, I’d be a little more cautious about relying purely on a fluid test. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, so age is relevant even if the level and appearance look fine. If the manufacturer's schedule calls for replacement at that interval, I’d probably follow it rather than treating it like a “top-up” item. The pad rattle is a different issue. If there’s plenty of friction material left and braking is normal, it may simply be pad-to-carrier movement, but I’d get the garage to identify exactly where the movement is before replacing anything. A good quality pad with the correct hardware can make a noticeable difference.

When was it last serviced? Have the Spark Plugs been changed at around 40,000 miles or since? Has the Air Filter been changed or looked at? Have the brakes been serviced, or inspected and has the brake fluid been changed? Is the AC used and has that been serviced?

it refuses to take 0369 in emergency

Why 368?

Hello i have a 2015 mk3 lauren and klement octavia estate fitted with a columbus unit i have the ece2024 maps installed, i downloaded the latest map HIGH 12 F P350 EU 202345 from a link on here, when i installed the map it only lets me see the route from a distance of 25 miles and i cannot zoom in, any ideas???

My dad has a 2015 Octavia estate. His infotainment system has developed a fault. It won’t connect to his (or anyone’s) phone via Bluetooth. If we do either a manual delete of all paired phones or a hard reset all the old settings reappear the next to the system is booted up. Any ideas if this is fixable or a terminal problem? Also is there a cheap way of allowing Apple CarPlay etc… to run without visiting a main dealer (should it be repairable). Thanks

Photo supplied by seller of the cambelt that they’ve changed. Not sure who by.

i have 369 need earlier one 0368 is corrupted on mib solution

yeah, not a helpful title. Its a 1.5 petrol Scala, with about 55,000 miles on the clock I've been aware of a drone from the engine/drivetrain for some while and now even the missus is mentioning it, and she's quite deaf ;-) Where to start with tying the problem down ? What questions should I be asking myself ? Can anybody recommend any garages in the NW (Wigan/Bolton) likely to be able to look at this (without first saying we'll want at least £120 for an hours diagnostics, and thats not an actual dealership)

Thanks for the replies. I'm used to the cars I've had in the past where removing the oil filler cap with engine running has produced the opposite to the Kamiq where crankcase pressure is released through the filler hole...Now i know it's normal.Thanks again

OK. Thank you for the information. So easier and propably cheaper would be a standard din1 radio. Are these plug and play, or do I need to buy extra cables or adapters?