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That was probably some type of ACC - not standard cruise.

Very likely that the older vehicles had stronger engine braking than these later ones.

Can’t find any Battery aging related info for the Jan 2019 Polo but the Jan 2026 one showed, after 2 months, 92% charge related and 89% performance related, 79% SOC. The Jan 2019 averaged 9.52miles/day, 66.7 miles/week, to 25,395 miles for the first 7.4 years and since hand down just over 6 months ago, 28.75miles/day, 201.3miles/week, 5407 miles, to a total of 30,802 miles VCDS Data Today 14/10/2026 for the Jan 2019 Polo IDE01834 Battery voltage 12.172 V IDE01836 Battery current -4.958 A IDE01837 Temperature of battery sensor 26 °C IDE01839 Battery charge status 74 % IDE01841 Battery internal resistance 7.6 mOhm IDE01842 Usable battery charge 29 Ah IDE01843 Battery voltage at rest 12.4 V IDE01948 Battery internal resistance not normed 6.4 mOhm IDE07681-MAS06086 Battery total charging throughput-Total re-charge 4228.4 Ah IDE07681-MAS06087 Battery total charging throughput-Entire energy throughput 4413.9 Ah IDE03256-MAS06105 Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity 59 Ah IDE03256-MAS06106 Battery adaptation-Battery technology EFB IDE03256-MAS06107 Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer JCB IDE03256-MAS06108 Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number 1111111111 IDE08347 adapted battery capacity 84 Ah

Did that several times before I clocked what it was. Surprising how easy it is to move the light switch accidentally with a brush of the knee. Discovered another one this week. I was just moving the car slightly & hadn't closed the door fully. It was latched but not fully closed. Didn't bother opening & reclosing it as I was only moving a foot. Electronic handbrake said no & wouldn't disengage until the door was fully closed.

White spirit smell might be waxoil. Did the inside of the bottom of my doors and it stunk for a while. As for other items are there security lock nuts on car wheels if so is there a security socket. Check that its not been fitted with run flat tyres which may explain spare missing but it should still have towing eye etc. Reckon a polite call to whoever you purchased it from. They may well have the mat etc and its not been replaced after a valet. Alasdair

I agree with that I had a Golf and a Leon both which held the speed going downhill and they were both a lot older than this car.

Would be keen to know. It's interesting that whenever I see one of those posts, the poster never responds to any questions about how they did it and whether any additional hardware or hardware modification was required.

I’ve seen a few of these kicking about on Audi forums in the last month but no walkthrough. Anyone got info on how to do it or anyone offer doing this remotely? Basically you can now get Apple CarPlay to show on VC so Apple Maps /waze

I owned a 1.5 Monte Carlo from new in 2021 and part exed it for a Karoq in 2025. It was by far my favourite Skoda to date and Ive owned nine so far, its quick enough, quiet on the road, very economical and great on long distance trips. Im seriously thinking of changing back to another one.

I had another make of car that applied the brakes if necessary to keep the speed relatively constant when going downhill, and I don't think it would have been expensive to implement on the Scala, but there we go.

Hi Alan, Did you by chance want to pass on/sell on that working CD you have? I have tried to serch up how to do it myself but stuck in a death loop of answers. Thanks in advance Voodood

I mean, I've had the Octavia for 10 years and I just don't need the space now we have another fanily car. I don't drive as much as I used to, and most of that is <100 miles, so EVs make sense. I'm looking at a Cupra Born, which was better to drive than I expected. Infotainment is maddening(!) but I can get used to that, and I think overall it's a really nice place to be.

I had ordered wrong front wipers set Bosch A638S so I removed the rubber from them and put it on the OEM ones I had from the factory. You can call me a "cheap guy" but I didn't want to throwaway 40 euros The rear one fit like a glove on the Scouty - Bosch A405H.

Another request for MSTD_EU_SK_P6230 please, thanks!

I think these are all things you should be asking the dealer, where's the mat, tool kit and missing lumber support knob. If I remember correctly, sold my Kamiq in August, you get the compressor and tyre gunk, locking nut key and tow eye(s) bolts and probably a wheel wrench. Not sure on the jack and handle, a few cars recently haven't got those in the kit. Yep, I'd be asking the dealer where the missing items are first.

Couldn’t understand why my Karoq “bonged” at me when I got in this morning. Nor could I understand why in bright sunlight was the map display night mode, when it’s set to Auto. Then it “bonged” again when I opened the door to get out. Light bulb moment - the light switch had been knocked from Auto to Side lights. Quite clever really - never ignore a “bong” I think.🤔

@Deny Preložil som váš príspevok do angličtiny. Upozorňujem vás, že predvoleným jazykom na fóre Briskoda je angličtina. Na pomoc vám môžu poslúžiť online prekladové nástroje (napr. Google Translate). I've translated your post into English. Please be aware that the default language on Briskoda is English. There are online translation tools available to assist you (e.g. Google Translate) Camshaft/crankshaft position sensor fault (G40) I’m asking for advice to see if anyone has encountered this issue, as I’m at a loss for what to do next and am turning to the power of the internet. Out of nowhere, the car started making a noise like an old diesel engine; it’s a 2017 2.0 TSI (206 kW) with 189,000 km on the clock. The noise stopped after a cold start, but the "Check Engine" light came on the following day. In April of this year, I replaced both camshaft magnets (INA N205 units). Diagnostics showed two errors: 1. Camshaft/Crankshaft Position Sensor Implausible signal Sporadic fault 2. Bank 1: Intake Camshaft Retarded timing setpoint not reached Our first thought was the timing components; we inspected them and found that the previous owner (in Germany) had replaced some parts (specifically the plastic components), though the chain and sprockets had not been changed. When the connector to the exhaust camshaft adjuster was unplugged, the noise stopped, suggesting a faulty camshaft. A genuine Škoda replacement camshaft (complete with the sensor) was purchased. We used old oil mixed with a cleaner to flush the engine (to remove some carbon deposits) and then installed fresh oil and a new filter; we cut open the old filter and found very little debris. We measured the cylinder compression, and each cylinder showed 8 bar. The following were replaced: Oil and filters Sump plug Dipstick O-ring Magnet cover gasket Crankshaft oil seal Coolant Exhaust camshaft Camshaft valve Timing cover plate Sump gasket Sump O-rings Dipstick O-ring BG109 flush After these parts were replaced, the car was started; however, once the engine warmed up and the oil temperature exceeded 80°C, the noise returned and the check engine light came on. Thanks in advance for any advice. I am also attaching the latest diagnostic report.

@bigjohn Thanks for the reply. When first starting, the voltmeter usually shows ~12.8V The stop/start system often works the first time I stop (engine not up to temperature) and frequently fails to work after that. So that seems to be the opposite of what it should be. It will stop and restart after a few seconds or even stop and immediately restart. Several times when stationary in a queue for a long time it has stopped, restarted after a few seconds, then stopped again after ~30s, then restarted after another few seconds. The dealer said they had updated the software to the latest versions. The cruise control surges/brakes on the level. Maybe it thinks it's going downhill...?

Don’t get obsessed with the voltmeter, when you first start up does the voltage raise over 13 volts?:- A)When you unlock the car and open the door even before you get anywhere turning it on the car will have fired up systems and the fuel pump ready for action which will effectively show a lower voltage. B)Modern stop / start charging systems are designed to save the odd bit of petrol by turning down charging after a while (On my Superb my voltage sensitive cool box used to shut down!) but overcharging when on the overrun to recoup energy (down hill etc). That’s why you need a better stop/start battery (EFB or AGM etc) as a traditional wet battery would struggle and fail prematurely. Stop/start errors are common - (eg you’ve only driven short journeys) but could be related to the gear indicator issue mentioned. Only unless your battery is in good fettle, car warmed up etc will stop start work. RE buggy infotainment system, it’s well documented on this forum that it’s buggy. Might need a firmware update - again well documented. Re Cruise control, to some extent surging a bit up hill or braking downhill is normal as the car is trying to maintain a constant speed. Sometimes the effect of this can be tweaked in the car settings?

Had similar problems with my 12 plate. Part number on canister is the part number for actual canister which I assumed was filter number. Local motor factors looked it up and got the correct filter for me. Alasdair

Thanks @AGFalco Your post above lists the two arch part numbers from buyacar. Did you also use the adapters? I saw another post from you which listed a much larger list of parts.

Intuitively that makes sense, but the workshop manual is very strict about not lifting it anywhere else! Which is why I've come here. 9.3 Raise vehicle Raise vehicle with a lift platform or a workshop jack The vehicle must only be raised with a workshop jack in the indi‐ cated jacking points -arrow A- and -arrow B-. a = 12 cm b = 24 cm The jacking points are located at the stiff joints of the bottom side rail.

It works for VW as well. I had one situation on VW Polo 2020-2021 which had MEN2, but it used different software and this patch could not work on it. 2020 and older should work straight.

Poprosím vás o radu, či sa niekto s tym stretol lebo uz neviem čo ďalej tak skúšam aj takto silu internetu Auto začalo mať z ničoho nič zvuk ako starý naftový motor je to 2.0tsi 206kw 2017 189xxxkm Pri studenom štarte zvuk prestal, no na druhý deň vybehla kontrolka check motora. V apríli toho roku som vymenil obe magnety vačkov. Magnety N205 INA Diagnostika ukázala 2chyby 1.Snímač polohy vack/klik hriadela Signál nedôveryhodny Kontrola závad zap sporadicky 2.rada valcu 1:vackovy hriadeľ sací Nastavení pozdeji nedosazeno Prvá vec čo nám napadlo že to môžu bytrozvody, ale tie boli rozobraté, predchádzajuci majiteľ (Nemecko) niečo menil (tie plastové veci boli menené) reťaz a ozubené kolesá neboli menené. Pri odpojení konektora od výfukoveho nastavovača vačky zvuk prestal, tak pravdepodobne že bude vačka zlá. Vačka sa kúpila originál od škody komplet zo snímačom . Dal sa starý olej a čistič aby prečistil motor (trošku od karbonu) a následne sa dal nový olej filter.. starý filter sa rozrezal, bolo tam minimum bordelu . Zmeral bary na valcoch a každý mal 8 barov. Menili sa Oleje filtre Zatka vane Gumička mierky Tesnenie veka magnetov Semmering kluka Chladiaca Vacka výfuku Ventil na vačku Plech na rozvody Tesnenie vane OKrúžky vane Okružná mierka BG109 preplach Následne po výmene tychto veci sa auto naštartovalo a pri nahriatí motora olej nad 80c sa ten zvuk zase ozval a zasvietil check motora. Ďakujem vopred za nejaké rady Posielam aj poslednú diagnostiku

Update: All of the problems have persisted and some new ones have emerged: under downhill braking with a full load (three people plus luggage) the whole car was vibrating the infotainment system is very buggy, often freezing or generating random characters when entering an address into the SatNav or sometimes activating a different random function when pressing an icon on the menu "Stop/Start system error" messages occurring on the dash display The Stop/Start often doesn't even attempt to activate (with the crossed-out A icon showing on the dash display) Cruise control often surges/brakes (feels like I've changed down to 2nd and briefly got massive engine braking) Tacho display showing nonsense gear suggestions, e.g. 6 -> 1 @rum4mo I've bought a 12V plug-in voltmeter. I tested it against a multi-meter on an external power supply and in the car against a multi-meter connected directly to the battery terminals - both times it was within 0.1V, so I know it is accurate. When the car has been sitting for a few hours or overnight, the voltage is ~ 11.7-11.9V and after a journey - even a long motorway run - it is usually ~ 12.3-12.4V. This seems a bit low to me. The car has been back to the dealer twice now. The second time I discussed all of the issues in detail with the Workshop Controller when booking the car in. The first time they said they had "updated and reset all of the software" and the second time they said they had "done some more software updates". To be fair, the brakes are a lot better, but the other problems are just the same. I'm considering my next steps. Should I... buy an OBD2 scanner - is this likely to show anything useful? take the car to my local garage, where I have had previous vehicles serviced for many years, and get an independent assessment go back to the dealer and try to get some redress under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, i.e. a replacement vehicle or a partial refund be done with it and sell the car Anyone got any wisdom to share? Thanks, Andrew