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For a comparison with the "civil" variant in the same colour, I add some picture with mine

A little experiment with a blowtorch. No it did not go wrong.

The scruffy vents under the front seats are normal. You can get some plastic trims which fit into the vents and look much more finished, though they will cause some (small?) resistance to the airflow. ( I certainly won't be bothering with those, as I like airflow to be as full and quiet as possible, and because in the 2 1/2 years I've owned my Kodiaq, I've never actually seen the scruffy vents - I never put the seat far enough forward!)

Week 30 starts 20th July I believe, so you're right on the boundary... but I thought the factory normally closed down production for a few weeks just before the changeover, so you could be just at the restart??

The purpose of lights on a car are both to see at night and to be seen! Why make it more difficult for yourself and everyone else?? I drove down the M1 a few months back in a hailstorm at dusk, and was passed by a BMW and Audi racing each other through the mist and realised they were completely invisible once they were a few yards away from me despite having their lights on !

Check your PMs

You are pretty close to the truth there! The primary reason for coding in the new battery is to select the correct charging strategy map for the battery technology type being installed to optimize its performance. There has to be an element of system self learning through the battery monitor relating to battery condition, (State of charge, State of function, Depth of discharge, Temperature compensation). So in theory, swapping 'like for like' batteries without coding won't have long term consequences and everything will be fine after a few hundred miles or so. No two identical batteries work in precisely the same way and certainly not if using a generic aftermarket battery vs the OEM optimised unit. Swapping EFB to AGM for example without coding won't mean that the battery will immediately fail/explode and the car do strange things, it still a 12v battery and will discharge and recharge as normal. It's just the optimised charging strategy won't be in place for maximizing the battery life and hidden operational features like the desulphation/reconditioning cycle timings and duration won't be correct either.

All check your PMs

Battery management system 'believers' will tell you "Yes, definitely, if you don't tell the car it has a new battery, the charge management system will get itself terribly confused and treat your new battery (in some unspecified way) as if it were the old one still." Personally, I think this is flawed logic, based on the belief that the charging system is cleverer than it really is. I find it hard to believe that the system charges the battery in different ways depending on how old or degraded it 'thinks' the battery is. Trouble is, few people outside a relevant engineering team at VW group probably know the whole truth. Not really in VW group's interests to publicise the details, nor to say "ah yeah, it's a very robust system, it'll work it out within a short time" even though that's probably true.

All the articles of the new Sorento looks really good. And apparently hybrid/plug in models available as well only add to the appeal. 7 year warranty and a more useable third row could make this the best 7seat SUV and take the Kodiaq’s crown

Maybe why he said this?

Latest SW is always best but that year can still be done with the earlier unlimited cables John

I'm all for soft suspension, car manufacturers have been obsessed with handling for too long. Hard suspension, big wheels and low profile tyres do nothing for me. My commute isn't influenced by whether I can take a corner 10% faster, it's all about absorbing rough surfaces, potholes, excess standing water and doing it quietly and fuss free with minimal cabin intrusion. If getting this means my car rolls an extra 2 degrees on a 60mph B road, laps the Nurburgring a bit slower and results in me losing a game of Top Trumps to a photocopier salesman in his Audi A6 then bring it on.

Looks like oil temp anywhere in the white section ( 103°C) is fine, red to the left too cold, red section to the right too hot.

Thank you.

So, is it a straight swap or needs coding? Sorry but my English is not so good and I didn't understand yet.

Email from darkside today the fabia is done! Few changes to the car since last time. Having made the most powerful 1.6 cayc that was properly documented (having seen some of the spec lists and info from the ones in turkey it didn’t make sense they were making the claimed power so really uncharted territory. It was abit of a monster then one day it seemed to struggle on power. Got the car back to darkside and was down on compression which we thought was a valve or a piston ring but then noticed some marks on the bore. Darkside stripped the engine down and we discovered rods 3 and 4 were bent (tdi reliability yo). Looks as if it might have been bearing failure. Hunt started to find a replacement 1.6 block although in talking to darkside we decided to go a different route and swap in a 2 litre CR140. As the 2 litre is effectively a stroker kit on a 1.6 and we could swap the cams over and other parts so I bought the 23k 2 litre out of the 4WD caddy van they built and we upgraded the turbo to a GTB2260VK (was offered the engine less than what a 1.6 block would cost) Fine tuned over the weekend and it’s now 274bhp getting up to 282 on meth. Should be good for a couple of years then will get bigger injectors and a bigger turbo again 😂 They also made me a stool from the old engine 😂

Tyre dressing is badly needed.

You have a huge amount of choice. 16", 17", and 15" if you're front discs aren't bigger than 288mm diameter. If your front discs are 312mm diameter you need at least 16" rims/wheels. Also, it depends if you want to stick with standard tyre and rim sizes. If so, then 15" wheels are out of the question because it's not an authorised size. According to wheel-size.com 215/60R16 and 225/50R17 are standard tyre sizes on the Yeti. Steel rims can be cheap to buy new. I wouldn't fit old steel rims because if they are rusty around where the tyre bead sits, they will slowly leak air. If you don't have a slow leak, tyres will only lose about 3psi every 6 months. I always visually check my tyre's air pressure before every journey. Because you are based in New Zealand, you might have a bigger choice of allowable tyre and rim sizes. In some European countries, you have to stick to the Skoda approved list. You might also want to check what tyre sizes have good availability and affordability in New Zealand. The standard 215/60R16 and 225/50R17 sizes could be expensive. Also, if you want All-terrain tyres you may need to look at higher profile tyres such as 215/65R16 to get a good selection. Maybe start off by comparing the availability of 215/60R16 and 215/65R16 tyres. Here's a couple of Bridgestone all-terrain tyres with good Euro labels E C 72dB that also have the all-season 3PMSF symbol for good snow traction. Bridgestone A/T 001 205/70R15 96T https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=F7tY9N4yOMOolo4u.110.416335275&sowigan=GAN&Breite=205&Quer=70&Felge=15&Marke=Bridgestone&ranzahl=4&Herst=Bridgestone&m_s=3&Ang_pro_Seite=50&sort_by=brand&rsmFahrzeugart=ALL&Label=E-C-72-2&details=Ordern&typ=R-341387 Bridgestone A/T 001 215/65R16 98T https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=F7tY9N4yOMOolo4u.110.416335275&sowigan=GAN&Breite=215&Quer=65&Felge=16&kategorie=6&ranzahl=4&sort_by=brand&rsmFahrzeugart=ALL&Label=E-C-72-2&details=Ordern&typ=R-341391

Good bit of info on why brake fluid is changed; https://www.kwik-fit.com/brakes/information/why-brake-fluid-is-important Depending on how you drive the car would depend how severely you’d feel the effects I guess e.g. track driving vs long motorway runs (although you’d likely use different brake fluid for track).

The throttle body has nothing to do with the throttle pedal on the diesel. the throttle pedal. Has two sensors in it. One goes upscale and one down to cross reference each other.

The pressure in the low pressure side of an R134a AC system (system not running) is proportional to the ambient temperature and will be from 30psi at 0°c to 130psi at 40°c. Your instructions no doubt are for filling when the system is running and the low side pressure will be from 20-30psi at 0°c to 25-35psi at 40°c and is absolutely not the way to judge whether the system is sufficiently charged. VAg and all modern systems are filled by weight requiring the old refrigerant to be vacuumed out and the specific weight (525g for example) re-introduced. If you dont have vacuum & recycling facilities & are refilling or topping up from a 13kg cylinder like me or the throwaway can that you have you have to use a guage set and watch the changing values between the high and low side pressures to be able to stop somewhere in the region of the correct fill but even that is a shot in the dark. At normal temp of say 20°c you would hope to achieve 70psi in both the low and high sides with the pump not running and with the aircon switched on full to see the low side drop to 20-30 psi and the high side rise to 100-150 psi but with the variable output compressors with the N280 modulating valve you are never likely to get the pump running at 100% like you could on an older E/M clutch compressor that was either full on or off.

Which company did the re-map? Sometimes the quality of the after care service shows more about the company than the BHP figures!

x

Well... i found those things on ebay... 282 grams for 7€ does not seem too overpriced? got that from this video, starts at about 1 minute

Well I got the whole lot off darkside developments for 42 plus delivery, so could try them? I didn't use the plastic shifter cable adapter thing, just unclipped and used the existing one.

Well I got it fitted, it was an absolute doddle to change over. Didn't feel that much shorter to be honest but it's more noticeable on a drive. Isn't drastically shorter but does make it feel more precise and slick, Well worth 45 quid and 30 mins messing about on your drive. Looks almost completely OEM bar the Audi badge - should be warranty safe. Just noticed the varying part numbers on this thread and the one on the part below. So beware of that

I have drove on a the highway and the ambient temp was around 26 degrees. I was driving 130-140KM/h with adaptive tempomat, AC ON, and the oil temp was between 100-105degrees When I drive to work, the car is above 80-90degrees even before 15miles. So far what I have noticed it takes me less than 7miles to warmp up the engine. When I drive to work, I am driving at 80km/h between the cities and 60km/h in the cities. So far I havent noticed the oil temp to go over 92degrees. So I guess it is ok. Thank you guys for every info you have posted and explanations it helped a lot to understand, I am quite new to the superb but I want to get better and take a really good care of it So as you guys said, it does look normal. But I will take the car to the service and ask them to check and change the oils and coolants so the car is fresh 😉

That seems normal to me, and makes sense to me. The camera image shows the view out of the back of the car. The outline of the car shows the proximity to ensors all around the car, it would be very odd if that was upside down.

Hi Shy, yep roads getting busier around here again too. Have driven 3 or 4 times a week, but much less that before. Have been getting more than a week out of a tank of fuel! Have really enjoyed the empty roads! 😉 Getting the GTS detailed in the first week of July, so looking forward to that!

On my missus Octavia with reversing camera there are three "views" that you can select from. The normal reversing view, a wider view and a more pointed down view for towbar reversing. Perhaps the coding gives you these options in the infotainment system.

What Car seems to have presenter / motoring journalists with short memories or many just can not make up their minds after the first video, then filming and making the video below that. They really need to look again at the various cars boot space when the cars have all 7 seats available or even just 6 seats.

Far call. Gently caress the accelerator? 😂

AusKodiaq and I are in Victoria, where using the accelerator is considered hooning behaviour and carries a fine and demerits.

Best bet is to piggy back it off your rear wiper.

And here Use the search function at the top. Search for Xenon AND Rapid. 45 hits.

My brother retired last year after 40 years in the motor industry working for Bosch as a UK Director and attending Board Meetings at HQ in Germany so you must admit he is well informed on car systems and reliability issues in the manufacturing of motor vehicles. Having a generous company car budget his last 3 business vehicles which clocked up on average 30,000 miles per year over 4 years were 2 Audi's (popular with his Boss) and a Jaguar (the patriotic choice). He could have kept his A6 going into retirement but decided to use some of his retirement bonus on a new car with a generous kit level, good reliability record and a 7 year warranty at a good value price. He bought a Kia Sorento.

I have to say it doesn't sound any different than stock, more important: it doesn't sound modified at all even when in full blast and I mean both in a good way, it completely retains the OEM tone, excellent job. In reality, i could leave with a slightly more throaty note but if you start going down that way you risk of going too far and having to put back the stock items. Definitely for anyone looking to retain the stock sound on a 500bhp setup yours is the way to go. The other important question is, no drone or boomy sounds when at a steady speed and low revs right? In fact I have found this "effect" of some aftermarket exhausts, more annyoing than a loud noise during full throttle

Write 1000 times: "Karoq" Your new car will appreciate the attention. 😊

We have a Thule Motion XL on our Sportline. I think they have renamed the boxes since we bought ours though. I can recommend these www.roofbox.co.uk for everything you might need regarding boxes or bars or boot liners come to that.

Well after 3 years in the Kia wilderness thanks to an ignorant and insulting Skoda dealer getting my back up I have finally returned to the brand, after previously having an Octavia and 3 Superbs before the Kia Sportage, which wasn't a bad tank to be fair, I'm relieved to be back in the lap of luxury in my new to me 190 Sportline DSG, 100 miles of comfortable driving done just today since I picked it up at 11!!😁😁😁

I've finally got round to fitting the catch can. I got a shopping list of the things I needed from 'niceyellow vrs' which helped a lot, so that was much appreciated.👍 Having mulled over where to put the catch can, I settled on where the two relays sit at the rear of the engine bay. I watched a YouTube video of a catch can install on a Mk1 Audi TT and they tucked the relays into the housing to the right of the relay unit and it seemed to work well. Following this method, I did the same and both relays fitted nicely without too much of a struggle. When faffing around mocking up different brackets to attach the can to the original bodywork & holes, I had the idea of using the original relay box. The can fits nicely in there so I held it in place with a couple of cable ties just to see what it would look like. It turns out that if I placed the two bolts that came with the can in opposite diagonal holes, the cable ties don't slide off and the can is nice and secure. For now, I'll leave things as they are as to remove the can all I have to do is undo the two hoses and the whole unit unclips off the original bracket along with the plastic housing. To empty the can it's simply a case of sliding the cable ties over the bolts, take the can out and empty it. I may redo this at some point but seeing as it's so secure and tucked away, it isn't too much hassle to loosen two jubilee clips to empty the can. To allow the pipe to connect to the 'hockey puck' I rotated it 90 degrees anticlockwise. Also, it took just under 60cm of hose to complete the job so if anyone is thinking of doing anything similar it gives you an idea of how much to order. Anyway, I've put some photos below for folks to look at and to give their opinions on the install.

We bought a Kamei Husky XXL https://www.kamei.de/en/products/transport/roof-boxes/husky/ which is working very well for us. I went for matte black as it spends much of the year living in the shed and I thought matte would hide inadvertent scratches better. There’s space to fit a single bicycle next to it too, which was important for us. I was surprised what little impact on fuel economy it had. Putting the bike on next to it on the other hand made a massive difference.

What Mr Silver said above. Also be aware that Thule have changed their product codes, so the 757 footpack is now known as the 710400. Also be aware the Thule sell a 775 footpack that will fit your car. The difference between this and the 757 is that the 775 has metal straps that pass under the roof rails rather than just clamping onto the rail, thereby making what I consider to be a safer system for large loads, like a roofbox, or in my case, large canoes. Mr Silver and I have had a discussion about these feet in the past. He believes the 757 pack is adequate for roofboxes and I guess Thule do as well, but for my usage, I much prefer the 775 pack and I cannot understand why they aren't offered as an alternative to the 757 pack.

The worst of it will be seized unions and rusty pipes. It's generally easier to bleed them through before you hook the spring on, but that varies from car to car.

just priced up the rear discs and pads, £23.82 for the whole lot! lol...

no mention of rust , so obviously the welding was up to the job! hopefully, should be good until its 40 and doesn't need an MOT anymore! lol... only one v-special for sale yesterday, and it was £5k ! 😮

You need to change it, it sounds like an internal seal has failed, probably due to wear and tear and age.

Nice colour fair price for 365bhp.

The Thule wing bar edge fit directly to the roof rails. You can also get Yakima bars which are very similar, but cheaper. https://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/rbvehsel4_tab.php/roofbars/yakima_aero_x_rail_bars_1_x_s44b_1_x_s45b_black_s54b/Qx%40w%2C6M4gNax5vN1Yv0vegd3uHKJCVhoD_LzpY.gvLiKemUSihMXj0_oKKTwJMAPZ