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Schoolboy error. Forgot to remove wheel chocks I'd set on the other wheel. 😂

Great stuff! I think I should be earning some commission from the retailer if everyone is buying from the place I suggested! 😆

My thoughts exactly. Golf is a bit small for three kids so I changed my Octavia vRS TDI 4x4 estate for this: 272ps 4Motion DSG Lovin' it 😊

We have just bought second hand for the wife, it has just under 2 years guarantee left but if anything had been broken/paint damage then we would have been pointing it out before the deal was concluded and asking for it to be done in the price. Too late after the deal is done.

Lubrication/Treatment of Sunroof Seals In my initial research into my leaky roof i kept coming across a lot of VW EOS Convertible owners boards - it appears that the EOS is basically a collander! One of the solutions VW have offered to fix the problem was treating the various rubber seals on the convertible roof using a special lubricant oil. This lubricant is called 'Krytox' manufactured by DuPont and is an expensive, super high specification PFPE lubricant. It seems that it has the effect of rejuvenating seals causing them to swell and remain water tight - it is also extremely durable and does not react to the elements and contaminants. VW sell this stuff under three part numbers: G 052 141 A1 - Oil based G 052 141 A2 - Paste based G 052 141 A3 - Aerosol based It can also be bought direct from DuPonts UK distributor GBRTech.co.uk who quoted me £30.30 for the 30ml of the oil (Krytox GPL-105) and £38.90 for 2oz of the paste (Krytox GPL-205), not including VAT and £13 fedex delivery. A lot of chat on the forums suggests it can go a considerable time before needing reapplying and that a little goes a very long way, however the oil based version apparently contains a lower quantity of the actual lubricant compared to the paste. There are several alternative PFPE type lubricants that can be found cheaper on ebay etc. including Zarox, Fluorofluid and Whiteline bicycle lubricants - however anecdotal evidence is that these, despite being cheaper are still fairly expensive and are not as good as the Krytox and this a bit of a false economy. Interestingly the Golf and Leon workshop manuals refer to applying the Krytox paste to the seals, however there is no mention of it in the Octavia manual. As such i was a bit reluctant to spend £50 quid on something that may or may not be necessary. In my research i found a lot of references to 'Gummipflege', particularly among owners of MB and BMW cabriolets. This stuff is a rubber conditioner which also appears to rejuvenate the condition of seals (unlike normal rubber dressings which simply make it look shinier) although the reports are that it is nowhere near as durable as the Krytox stuff as it isn't really meant for external use. There are several brands of Gummiplege - Sonax, Liqui-Moly, BMW and Nextzett. The Nextzett stuff seems to be the best rated and i got a 100ml tube from MicksGarage for about £6 delivered so thought it was worth a whirl. It comes in one of those Kiwi-Shoe Polish type applicators with a foam pad on the end. Having wiped the seals down with a damp cloth and dillute washing up liquid and water mix which i allowed to dry, i applied it to all of the rubber seals around the inside and outside of the roof panel as well as all my door and boot seals. There's still loads left in the bottle which i can see lasting sometime. I will see how it goes, but even if i feel the need to reapply every couple of months or so at this stage I dont feel as if im losing anything by trying this first as an alternative to the Krytox. Hope this has all been of use to you folks

Lubrication of Roof Mechanism and Rails All workshop manuals for the Octavia, Golf and Leon refer to this as being a maintenance/service procedure however the only information i can find for the service interval comes from a Golf website where every 4 years or 40k miles is given. The three procedures seem to vary quite a bit, with the Octavia one appearing the most simple. I personally think that the sunroofs may be different for each model (as there are two different procedures for the Leon depending on body shape) however cant confirm this. Links to the procedures below : Octavia: See Page 115 in the pdf (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6mvh3pqryshv3rp/AAAYSoCsp-vVWz-h4ko4QoAha?dl=0&preview=Maintenance.pdf) Leon: http://www.seatia.com/secon-1242.html (Procedure differs from hatch/couple and the ST) Golf: https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/26804-sunroof-maintenance/ The lubricant itself in all manuals is listed as VW solid lubricating paste (G 060 751 A2) - I managed to get a 160g mastic gun type tube for £40 from TPS, you can get it on Ebay for slightly more. That quantity looks like it will last beyond my lifetime. Im not sure what exactly the stuff is in terms of identifying a cheaper alternative - it a graphite grey type colour, thicker consistency than lithium spray grease, quite sticky. In terms of the procedure itself, i tired using a shop vac to hoover any debris out of the rail area - however the nozzle was too big to really be effective. Likewise i had a spray can of air that i tried to use to blow out the thick, however this didn't really do much - i can imagine though that a proper decently powered air compressor may assist here. All i ended up doing was using a clean microfibre cloth and making sure i gently worked well into the rails and nooks. As the existing lubricant was still quite sticky this managed to pick up a lot of the loose old lubricant and the dirt embedded within. In terms or applying fresh, a little went a LONG way. I tried applying it to the rails using a small artists brush bent at an angle however I am far too clumsy for this and access is quite tricky (a small step ladder may assist with this from the outside, from the inside you'll have to climb onto the seat base). In the end i used cotton buds, bent at an angle and smeared in the grease and ran them along the rails. This probably ended up going on a bit thick but i cleared up the excess with another clean microfibre cloth. I then ran the roof open and closed a few times. The Leon workshop guide details a specific attachment to the mastic tube which looks to apply it precisely where it needs to do - i googled this - VAS 6621 'Grease Stone' however couldn't find anywhere selling or a price. As per my original post, i cant quite work out which final section of runner the Octavia manual is referring to?!? After re-greasing, the panoramic roof's opening and closing doesn't feel or sound any different, no smoother and no less smooth - with that said the old lubricant i removed did seem to have picked up quite a bit of grit and dirt - always an issue with greases and given the potential damage this could cause with metal on metal contact i feel it was worth doing. The service interval seems a bit long to me, maybe something you just check on each spring time?

Hello guys, After my recent experience with my leaking panoramic roof on my new (to me) VRS - fingers crossed foxed now - i have decided to very much keep on top of the maintenance for the roof. I have cleared the various drain points and applied gummi-pflege to all of the rubber seals (I know VW recommends krytox for this job but the stuff is very expensive - from my reading it seems the gummipflege isn't as durable but i figure that gives me a reason to reapply it and re-check the roof more regularly). I have invested in some of VW's lubricant paste which is referred to in the workshop manuals (again this must be made of unicorn tears given the price of it). Having checked the Skoda workshop manual the greasing procedure seems much simpler than the process listed in the Mk7 Golf and Leon workshop manuals and refers only to greasing the rails and a short length of runner. I have greased the rails this afternoon, but cant work out where this runner is that is referred to. I have attached a clipping from the workshop manual showing this but wondered if anyone had done this procedure may be able to direct me to it with photos of the area as it looks in the real world? Thanks again

ok, so this i hope may act as encouragement for others who, like me up to a couple of weeks ago, manage to psyche themselves out of tying their laces and going for a run. But also as a way for me to track progress made. so, a quick bio.... im nearly 37, weigh about 68-70kg, im 5' 6(.5)" tall. i have always hated running with a total and complete passion. in school i would get cramps after a half lap of a track, and feel like being sick after 2. but, at 16/17 i still couldnt run, i weighed about 55-58kg and according to the funky scales in the gym i had 6% body fat. i would happily stomp my way up a mountain at at a half jog and not be out of breathe at the top, or throw me in a swimming pool id go non stop for 7km until i need a pee. then... college happened. then workin full time happened. all the gyming, martial arts training and swimming fell away. i never got fat, though i gained weight ( not much mind) eventually about 8 yrs ago i went back to the gym. i never really made mych progress, there no target that i could say i want to hit which meant i struggled. i then went HIIT circuit training, in a small group class, in a gym thats in the upstairs of a pub - rough and a bit industrial i love it, with guy who is a complete headcase of fitness. the group made the difference, i stuck it out and pushed myself in every session, could only manage 1 night a week, but it made a difference i gained muscle mass, and fitness over 3 yrs that i never managed on my own. roll on to 2019.. work was ridiculous in terms of nights - i wasnt sleeping or eating properly, i was exhausted to the point of being unwell by christmas. i had to stop training, and over christmas gave up caffeine due to withdrawals and sensitivity having developed. i was also convinced (anyone who gives up caffeine may understand the panic/paranoia) that i had a heart issue as i felt so crap. git the all clear end of Jan, just before spud jr arrived. then my wife was unwell (still is) then lock down. and now we are here. im gone awfully unfit, still not sleeping and not exercising.... a new post will explain my change shortly, have to get sorted for bed now.

Sunday 19th July 2020, 20:15hrs "Right, im going for a run, ill be back... soon?" i left the house, walked to the end of the estate, and started a stopwatch on my phone, spotify on some angry grunge in my headphones. walked another couple of hundred yards then kicked into a jog. kept it going as long as i could - about 6mins.. then reverted to walking... then back running, bit more walking. i had no set distance, i had a location i was aiming for. i had no set times, it was just get there, and get home. i got to my turning point, and lap timed it on the stop watch as about 17mins - irrelevant and meaningless, i just didnt want to end up taking way way longer on the way back. i was pretty knackered, but had no choice... i got home in about 35mins. it meant nothing, i was heaving, and only proud i made it home. later that night i roughly mapped it on my phone as being about 1.5miles to the turning point. i had accidently picked almost a perfect 5k route. i now had a distance, a route, and a target to beat - its never allowed take longer than the last time, at least until im able to run the whole thing... every second night since ive been on the same route, at around the same time of day.. stay tuned for more.

Is it an engine rpm related problem ?

We have this one... it works well...

Ive still got the original bridgestone potenzas on the rear of my vrs estate and will be glad when they wear away their a noisy tyre ,different brands make such a difference

Just did what you said it seems to have worked 👍. Booted it a little bit and stabbed on the brakes and it's seemed to of stop them squealing. Cheers mate.

Or put the existing (smaller?) seat behind the driver and the (bigger?) seat behind the passenger as they can have their seat forward if needed.

Certainly this vid shows its more than good enough off-road for me. Off the tarmac from 8:00 onwards. My only question is whether the setting changes on the “higher” models makes any real difference over my basic SE with no buttons to press. I’ll be looking to use mine in Highland winters and have a spare set of alloys waiting on full winter tyres, plus light off-road in likes of Pyrenees.

I’d been reading the threads on central locking and thought people would be interested in this fix. The drivers door solenoid was changed but it still wouldn’t work on the fob. Also the alarm was going off intermittently so I booked it into a Skoda dealer to check out. They found 2 wires in the drivers door loom were broken and 1 wire on the passenger side broken. They wouldn't repair but said I needed 2 door looms and both fobs needed reprogramming as I’d fitted a new solenoid…. If it fails again I’ll be checking the door looms and repairing myself. Unfortunately with intermittent alarm faults as well I didn’t know where to start looking Hope this helps

It's a little darker as expected but it's still decent quality!

This question has cropped up before and the general consensus from those who had experience of both was that the 1.2tsi was probably the smoother and slightly more tractable of the two, very little difference in performance but the 1.0tsi was more economical. Like ShyVRS245 I had a Fabia 1.0 tsi courtesy car for a week and was very impressed by the excellent consumption and reasonable performance (my loaned version was the lower powered 5 speed manual). Kicking myself a bit that I did not buy a new Fabia manual before they dropped manuals from the Australian market

I use halfords screenwash and it is good stuff.

What the others have said. If it doesn't fit in a Superb even with a tall driver, it won't fit anywhere. On the other hand, personally I'm against such too fancy "solutions" for the child seats. It's almost twice as expensive as other great (and just as safe) child seats from Britax-Romer or Maxi-Cosy just because of the extra luxury of spinning the seat 90deg towards you? (can't think of an instance where we ever said "if we could only rotate the child's seat!" with our 5y.o. Plus it will stop serving you much sooner than those seats with a limit of 4 years /18kg.

Abdul Akhtar may only be 21 years old but there is no justification for calling him clueless. In 10 years time he will probably be on Dragons Den or running a Transatlantic airline empire

This actually worked. It shifts normally now. Many thanks sir

I'm 6ft3. With the driver seat set for me there is 31" between my seat back and the front of the rear seat back. Even allowing for variation in leg length etc I think you can say you have a 30 " horizontal gapto fit a car seat in. The website gives max L of the Spin seat as 74cm(29") https://uk.joiebaby.com/product/spin-safe/ I don't think any mainstream car has more rear legroom. Edit The actual room to play with will be more since there is a bit of give in the rear seat back when putting a seat against it. I didn't allow for that when measuring. I'm sure it would be fine.

That's a question I have wrestled with. I can assure all readers that it is a car that wasn't abused in my ownership. Despite 45k on the clock she was quite immaculate. I was the 2nd owner though...so maybe the first owner was a tad heavy handed? Or maybe the car was just a bad one...it happens. Possibly there's a very fine tolerance with the plastics used and the designs adopted so that they just about pass muster. Just a little over that tolerance level and you have a breakage. So not a hint of over engineering...which is a great comfort blanket I tend to find. I've replaced it with VW Touareg. Quite a different story when it comes to build quality...and it's 12 years old. Everything works. I hate to imagine what my Kodiaq will look like on its 12th birthday.

I have either owned been provided with (work) or driven a number of Toyota , BMW, Mazda , Ford , Vauxhall and VAG group vehicles over many thousands of miles . Thankfully now I only drive for pleasure! I am just quoting from a long life of waiting in various dealerships for these cars to be repaired or having build faults corrected under warranty. I have spent much less time dealing with issues with Toyota vehicles than the other marques , but found them to be rather dull to drive . I just prefer VAG vehicles as so many characteristics about them are right. Just my view, but c'est la vie! Enjoy your Skoda I do!

Simple with the DSG have e handbrake and autohold function so I can sit at lights etc foot off the brake without needing to knock it to neutral and put the handbrake on... I know thats fixed on the Mk4 This would make day to day driving so much easier. Less road and wind noise around the mirrors are nice to haves too.

Not that hard to work out. If you’ve got 4 grandkids and all their parafernalia you need a bigger car and 7 seats. If I didn’t I would have kept my Yeti, much better car than it’s replacement,the Karoq .

Or was it VAG Commander or maybe both, another "thing" I just had to buy about 20 years ago - and never used! Which is okay as it was probably a scammed/cloned bit of S/W and I should have known better!

Perhaps you've got used to the hard plastics all over the Kodiaq then?

I totally agree with you having spent many hours in our 30 month old Karoq (26,200 miles so far) the interior quality of the smaller Skoda SUV is much higher (almost as nice as my 2019 Superb Sportline) than that of the larger Kodiaq. You can see and feel the cost savings yet they have the nerve to charge thousands more for slightly more interior space and a bigger boot. Needless to say having been a long time Skoda customer I wouldn't buy any Kodiaq until they improve the interior quality.

Agreed about the badges! Shame they don't do them in Quartz Grey on AliExpress or I'd have already bought a set! 😅

Yeah, agree with the others. It’s a clear case of “caveat emptor” - buyer beware. Did you buy it blind on the Internet? As an ex “demo” car and it’s been driven by numerous people, used as a runner for delivery drivers, used as a courtesy car, a “go and get the lunch” and “drop him at the station” and “I’ll take that for the weekend” car. Basically, the condition they presented it to you, is a reflection of their business attitude I’m afraid; they couldn’t give a toss how it’s been treated during their tenure, as they got a registration bonus, a good discount and they made a profit when it sold. Car sales and service is one of the last bastions of abysmally poor customer service; when was the last time you felt genuinely welcome at a car dealership? I ask as I wouldn’t have bought it In that condition as it reflects all of the above. Our 280 was four years old with 20k when we bought it in March from an independent dealer and apart from a fair number of touched-up stone chips, it was immaculate inside and out and had been prepped really well by the dealer, who was also very welcoming and professional. And really luckily, the previous owner is a well-known member here and the car is a credit to the way he looked after it.

Thanks for posting this, @mac11irl. I'd started going to the gym after many years of leading a sedentary lifestyle. Even though I used to regularly climb poles for BT/ Openreach and do quite physical work (I worked smarter, not harder ) I'd become quite unfit. Last year I joined a gym and was just getting going and then BOOM! lockdown came and all that ended. I tried to motivate myself again but, ya know............ Following this for hints and maybe get some motivation back. @ColinD, is it possible to move this topic to Roadside? Or even better, create a new sub forum called Health & Lifestyle. Strictly on topic to cover health including MH and, as this is mainly a male forum, mens health? Not that this will disqualifiy female member from posting or creating topics, of course.

That sounds like me 10 years ago, I had 4 weeks from the first few running paces I had done for 35 years and gave myself what I believed to be the impossible target of the local 5km race in September, it may have been 6 weeks my memory is hazy, its unimportant. Soon I was running 5km and thinking about possibly trying the 10km race, my docteur said definitely not which was all the encouragement that I needed! Not long after I found that I could actually run 10km albeit with some stopping but 5km by then was relatively easy. I signed up for the half marathon, my target time was 2 hrs 40 minutes and I did it in I think 2 hours 20 minutes and the time dropped each year after that. I am up to 12k again but with several stops, a half marathon seems like a dream at present. Your 6 week thing will be a good time to review my progress, I just hope that it gets back to feeling normal again because its hell at the moment but I have the mental knowledge that it will be better, the last time I started from scratch again was after sepsis, I was very weak but still an athletic weight, its the 10kg that is holding me back. Sleep is very very important and good quality sleep as well, if you buy a runners watch or any fitness watch it will monitor your sleep time and more importantly how many hours deep sleep and how many light REM sleep. I knew that I had not been sleeping well since the confinement, the isolation and also the money concerns, since I have finally got the government support and know that it will continue till the end of the year I am sleeping much better, last night I got 4.5 hours deep sleep as opposed to 1.5-2hrs normally and I can always feel the results the next day, any injuries aches & pains just dissapear whereas they linger and get worse when sleep is not good. Editted, so much for the 6 weeks, its been 11 weeks since I restarted 🙁 Maybe I should count the 6 weeks from when I got my mind straight and my mojo back in which case its only been 2 weeks!

I think that it uses the radar of the Front Assist to detect when the front car drove off.

H2 rt by geof worrall, on Flickr little moreton hall, cheshire

This is possible, I’ve done it to my car and for another member. You need a donor VW USB and you can either use a VW USB hub for this and add as a source in the radio or you can do as I have done and build a USB that goes in the socket to charge with a donor VW USB and a USB hub from Amazon. Cut the insulation off the Amazon USB, put it inside the VW USB case, run it to the fusebox for power, hide the CarPlay dongle behind the A/C trim. Job done

So quick update. following all the advice I fitted a new battery on Saturday even though the current battery appeared to be fine and cold start was good etc. I checked all cabling around that area and the fuse box and all appears good. 200 miles later no warning lights or radio cutting out. Power steering is still a little notchy at times but it appears to be improving every day. I will update in a week or so and see how things are then. many thanks.

We have a spin 360 that has gone behind the drivers seat on the Octavia no problem. With the extra leg room in the superb you'll be fine.

Drainage Tubes - Continued: While not specific to the Octavia - the Leon Workshop Manual pretty much shows the layout of the drain tubes as they are on the Octavia in quite a lot of details as well as the cleaning procedure: http://www.seatia.com/secon-887.html

Where to being with this, I recently bought my Mk3 VRS used (but new to me) from a good friend. The car has a pano-roof, which i wasn't massively fussed about and on the basis of my experiences so far I will never buy a car with again. Long story short within a few days of buying the car i found the roof was leaking. The issued appears to have been fixed now by my local VW independent specialist who had to remove the roof, fit a new seal, re-bond the roof to the plastic frame and then refit. As a result of my issues I've done a LOT of research into these roofs the last few weeks so prepare for a long winded response. The roofs themselves appear to be manufactured by Webasto however the VAG appear to have a particularly poor track record in terms of leaks and drainage issues when compared to other marques. Clearing Drainage Tubes The most common issues are the sunroof drains themselves becoming clogged and flooding. The way to test this is to carefully run some water into the sunroof tray (i used a squeezy mineral water bottle) and see if it drains effectively - the drain points are at the front and rear wheel arches. Even if still draining okay i would suggest this should be a yearly job. My front drains were nowhere near as efficient as the rear drains. With the roof open, the drainage points can be found in the four corners of the plastic sunroof tray, however the two rears ones are not readily visible and are hidden by the mechanisms. The two front ones are easily identifiable and are circular holes a few millimetres in diameter. These drain points are bonded to drain tubes - I've seen other people have these bonds fail and leak or become disconnected and they have had to drop the headliner and re-bond the pipes to the roof. The front drainage tubes run down the A-Pillar and exit at the bulkhead in the engine bay. The drain tubes themselves are just push fit into a rubber boot at the bulkhead and again in mu opinion there is the potential for this to work loose and leak. The procedure i used to clear the front drains was firstly to open the bonnet and remove the rubber stripping from the plenum chamber cover - it will just pull off. From there you will see there are several metal clips which secure the plenum cover, again these will pull out and you should be able to lift both corners of the plastic plenum chamber cover. The workshop manual suggests the windscreen wipers need removing, but even with my shovel hands i was able to reach in under the plenum chamber cover and feel towards the base of the A-Pillar where you will feel a rubber nipple. You need to manipulate this and you should feel an amount of gunk work clear from the nipples, this in itself should improve the efficiency of the drainage tubes markedly. To clear the tubes themselves some recommend blowing compressed air from the drain point in the roof tray, however VW seem to advise against this and the workshop manuals refer to using a bowden cable or similar as a drain snake. Personally i wouldn't use anything metal or too rigid as the drain pipes themselves aren't especially heavy duty and i could see the potential to cause damage. I purchased some plastic garden strimmer line for a couple of quid from the DIY shop - 2mm diameter, in reality i could probably have done with using the same stuff but a bit thicker as this was a bit too malleable and not strong enough. As such i doubled it up and taped it at several points to double its thickness and make it a bit stronger. It was then a case of gently feeding it down the two drainage pipes - if you hit any snags its probably a bit of blockage, working the cable back an forth it should push through and i was eventually able to get my cable to appear out of the bulkhead nipple and then basically 'flossed' the drainage tube. I repeated this several times and quite a bit of gunk was loosened. I then repeated this on the other side front drain. Finally i used a large syringe containing hot (but not too hot) water and washing up liquid and injected this directly into the drain point just to try and degrease and clean any final bits out. As discussed the rear drainage tubes cant be easily accessed from the top by my eyes. The workshop manual suggests these exit by the rear wheel arch and that access to clear the drain point nipple can only be gained by removing the rear bumper - which looks a right ball ache. I have seen some suggests that taking off the wheel and arch liner should also get you access. You could also clear the tube from within the car - removing it from the rubber boot where it enters the drainage nipple and exits the car, but this would mean removing a lot of the boot trim. This was all a bit involved for me as my rear drains seemed okay, however i will keep an eye on this. My research suggests that the way to clean these drains is again using your improvised drain snake - however this time from the bottom up, feeding it from the wheel arch nipple up towards the roof where it should emerge. I will stick another post on shortly re: the lubrication of the mechanism and seals

Emerald green here.

Indeed but my costs are much less at about a third. Our 4x4 list price was 27.5k and we got it with a very low mileage at 3 months old (ex showroom car) for 16.5k. Doing the same calc 13.5k cost over 13 years = 1k per year so £87 per month. I did similar on the Swift a couple of years ago. Ex showroom car that saved me approx a third and two years motoring later it's worth pretty much what I paid for it having checked prices on auto trader. You just need to be careful how you buy and where - and not be one of those people who is seduced by a new car every couple of years.

do people only look at the monthly cost on these 'deals' what about the balloon at the end ? the mileage limit etc does everyone plan to spend a few hundred quid of their salary every month on a car forever ?

@SaltySkoda Start simple. Disregard panic mode advice if the engine had good maintenance.

I'm not 100% convinced re strainer although clearly it needs checking when off and when driving at speed it could be partially blocked with things that drop off when the engine is stopped. I myself think it is something worse though - I've experienced this in the past with worn main / possiby big end bearings that loose oil pressure past the worn bearings especially when the oil is hot/thin. On very early smaller Ford engines that had a three main bearing crank (mid 60's) they suffered wear in the main bearings (especially the middle one) that caused exactly the same hot oil low pressure issue at idle. The 5 bearing crank engines (pre crossflow ) that were introduced when the MKII Cortina was introduced were bullet proof. PS it is very hard to check for main bearing wear in situ The reason I mention it is I think the Felicia has a three bearing crank. It might be enough to sort this with a new set of shells but this is still an engine out job. Probably better to replace with a better engine from a scrapyard though as the rest of the engine will still have a lot of wear (sump gasket leak might be a clue - increased crankcase pressure due to bore/ring/piston wear!)

The pick-up strainer that takes the oil up to the oil pump. That may be all that needs doing, if it's significantly blocked up by solids that have accumulated over the years/kms. Clean or replace, depending on replacement cost/availability.

Given you've been scammed (or to put it another way, let down by your chosed supplier) I'll do you a deal. If you join the site as a Freedom member (cost is £10 for the year) send me the unit and I'll sort this for the cost of postage. Freedom is detailed here. Note, Freedom lite is not included in the deal... So, if you think this is something you're interested in, then shoot me a personal message.

Not true, you would need to buy the bluetooth module which is plug and play, not a new unit. Loads of them on Ebay, for example.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-SEAT-SKODA-BLUETOOTH-MODULE-Retrofit-KIT-RNS510-RCD510-7P6035730K/264802036811?hash=item3da76e6c4b:g:5ogAAOSwR~tex4FO Just make sure you purchase one "with" a wiring loom as well.

Quick update have the car just over a day now. first impressions very nice indeed really nice on the motorway solid as a rock feels really strong. just have to take it handy going over speed ramps as it’s the combi and on 19s. Sound system is canton, massive step up from the sound system I had in my Rav4. plenty over settings to play about so just getting to find my way around them. The DSG box is really nice as I was previously driving a Toyota with a CVT, CVT just howls when u ask it to move more like a grone. @MaddicIrl best off luck with yur pick up.