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Very unfair stereotype, I'll have you know 97% of all Range Rovers ever made are still on the road.......... ........the other 3% actually made it home. It does 👍

Just do it in the morning and report back

Well I've given you a possible solution. You either put up with the problem or try and find a workaround, but it may (or may not) involve an extra cable to supplement the power draw.

Not true.

Hi, I don't know the rules in finland and Germany, but here in France, it's forbidden to have different tyres on the same axle... In your case, I would the get rid of the 2 front weels (Hankook + Pirelli), move 2 rear Pirelli onto front axle, and buy 2 new tyres for the rear axle. 2 Michelin PS4 most probably...

Following on from the photo by @pinkpanther's friend, this reminded me of one I took a few days ago.

Skoda Octavia 1,9 TDI Year 2002 - Won’t start. No glow plug light and starter wont crank – Relay 109 Just want to input my experience into this forum in order to assist other, with similar problems. Apologize for my English, but it wouldn’t make sense to make it in Danish 😊. Had similar, but not exact same symptoms as described by several other treads. Occasionally my wife’s Octavia wouldn’t start and a few times engine just stopped when driving. Normally after some attempts the car started again and drove for some more weeks, so really annoying to troubleshoot. Finally, yesterday the Engine again stopped during driving and car couldn’t start. When turning ignition key “No glow plug light” and “starter wont crank”. Have had another issue with a damaged relay 109 earlier (No glow plug light), where the car couldn’t start, but is that situation the starter cranked fine. Was at that time solved with a new relay 109. Anyway, started by taking out relay 109 and tested it with 12 VDC on coil and multimeter on relay contact, worked perfect. Mounted relay 109 again and tried starting, but still same symptoms. Went back to Google and started by searching around in forums, but couldn’t find exact similar symptoms. Most similar problems found were caused by broken wiring from relay 109 or bad connections to ECU (Engine Control Unit). Back to the car and started with checking the wiring behind the socket (purple color in my car) where relay 109 is inserted and noticed, when pulling the bunch of wires on the back, that the relay 109 sockets seems to be a bit loose in the “mount”. Supported the socket from behind and inserted relay 109 completely. Turned ignition key and glow plug light came on, and Starter cranked in fine and car started. So, problem solved :-) In order to access Relay 109 you need to remove the lower facia (drivers side below ODB plug) by removing the two plate torch screws. In order to access relay 109 I removed the Wiper relay, see picture below Big thanks to all who contribute here, it really appreciated and finally an appeal to end/close the tread once the problem is resolved. Think to many cases end up in a “dead end”

A few more updates, Crank bolt wasn’t giving up for love nor pleading. So it met Mr Cutoff tool. With that off finally flipped the engine over and whipped the sump off. Oil pick up pipe was very clear, a good sign on a 1.8T. Never the less... a new oil pump and pick up fitted. and flipped back up the other way the exhaust manifold bolted back up and the turbo checked over and temp fitted. Awaiting new bolts, gaskets and sealing washers for the oil and coolant lines.

Thanks for the advice folks - got them fitted - went to another tyre shop that sell wheel studs aswell , but they said everything was fine with the studs I had . I also rang the online supplier who also said they should be fine. Anyway - here it is - sorry for the bad pic

I think there was a suggestion a while back that it was under consideration for the future, but no more than that. You don't need a spare tyre or repair kit to pass an MOT. If you do have one, it can't make you fail whatever its condition. Obviously it makes little sense to carry a spare that won't be usable when needed, but MOT doesn't care.

There were some epic deals on an M4. Damn my fertile loins

UK prices after Government grant and range. Life 58kWh battery 263 miles £29,990. Business 58kWh battery 262 miles £33,720. Style 58kWh battery 261 miles £34,180. Family 58kWh battery 260 miles £34,650. Tech 58kWh battery 260 miles £36,190. Max 58kWh battery 258 miles £38,220. Tour 77kWh battery 336 miles £39,290.

A heated steering wheel. One of those things you never thought you needed until you had it. Unless it’s a Range Rover, in which case, you have it, and you need it, But it doesn’t work.

My Skoda Fabia registered at the end of August 2016 (model year 2017) was delivered to the dealer straight off the assembly line. Earlier in this thread, I have described my experiences when the fuel leaked and the subsequent experience at the authorized dealer. I received a copy of information about the manufacturer's work to resolve the problem. The problem affects 1.2 TSI and 1.4 TSI engines (CZE*, CZD*, CHP*, CJZ*, CYV*) New equipment was implemented in the producion process to automatically tighten the rail bolts in week 25 of 2018. Sold vehicles with the problem need to have the rail, injection gaskets and all rail mounting bolts replaced. The rail mounting bolts should be tightened to a torque of 10 Nm.

Just subtle changes for me

Despite the assertions, the charging cable does make a difference. I tried several brands and found the CABEPOW supplied, JSAUX brand (from Amazon) is definitely the best. I've fitted them to all my charging systems.

How about one of these...

If you disconnect the sensing wire attached to the negative terminal the battery control module will not know the SOC of the battery. This can stop the Stop/Start mode and just leave the alternator on all the time. But a Stop/Start alternator can run at a higher voltage which a normal lead acid battery can't cope with for long. It is fine if the correct type of battery is installed. Thanks, AG Falco

Thanks. You will need some power seats and they will come with the wiring they need to work, you will need the female wiring plug and then connect to the fusebox for power and the BCM for part of the heated loom and CAN on drivers seat. Really does help, I like a Superb but I just can’t get one with the options I want. What’s cool with the FL Superb’s with dynamic light assist (SE-L and above) is they all have the A5 camera so you can code lane assist on them.

Hello guys, I want to build Skoda Octavia WRC (Maybe evo 3, but we will see for body kit) for everyday use 😂😄. Of course i am doing this on budget, and doing with my friends, to make cost minimum. So i am looking to buy Octavia 2001, 2.0 Petrol with 110 hp. What i need to do and what to buy to do it on 300hp minimum. i have friends mechanics so it will make easier. I was looking for sequential gearbox used but its expensive. I was looking for used dogbox gearbox, if you know someone who sell cheap around 1k Euro, please send me box. if i dont find dogbox too, can i use old gearbox for sometime untill i find dogbox, or can i find some cheap gearbox which can handle 300hp. Do you know how i can convert it to AWD? And can you recommend me some good suspension and brakes which are cheap. If you have any link for body kit for octavia wrc evo 1/2/3 please send me, i will need full body kit. i found oz racing wheels, do i need anything else? i was looking to buy car for 1k€ (found it), body kit 600/1000€, engine 1k€, but i think i can do it cheap, only i dont know how and what to do. gearbox 1k, or stay with old. brakes suspension and everything else 1k€ rollcage custom. If you have anything to recommend me please let me know. Thanks!

i didnt even let myself think about that...

Thank you so much for taking the time to post the above! Some really good info there and gives me some ideas.

Have a great hols anyway ... Sheffield now in Tier 3 so looks like we arnt going anywhere :-(

Not yet Nick sticking swabs down our throats in the morning, then take to a depot in Nottingham, they despatch to a lab in London or Liverpool then hopefully Saturday get our negative results, fill in the new Passenger Locator Form and QR bar code then we can set off to the Airport Sunday morning. The joys of leaving the UK in 2020.

I looked and thought, "that's not too bad looking". Then I saw the price.......

17" OEM Skoda Octavia MK3 Rims http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2016/drive_standart/753/hg_ug/601/subcategory/601070/part_id/2543668/lang/e 18" OEM Skoda Octavia MK3 Rims http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2016/drive_standart/753/hg_ug/601/subcategory/601080/part_id/2543668/lang/e 19" OEM Skoda Octavia MK3 Rims http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2016/drive_standart/753/hg_ug/601/subcategory/601090/part_id/2543668/lang/e Vredestein Quatrac Pro 235/35R19 91Y XL mytyres https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=wMqBMBZprTVN7Qry.110.685586608&sowigan=GAN&Breite=235&Quer=35&Felge=19&kategorie=6&Marke=Vredestein&ranzahl=4&Herst=Vredestein&m_s=3&Ang_pro_Seite=20&sort_by=brand&rsmFahrzeugart=ALL&Label=E-B-71-2&details=Ordern&typ=R-400858 Vredestein Quatrac Pro 235/35R19 91Y XL autodoc https://www.autodoc.co.uk/tyres/vredestein-8714692347443-ap23535019yqpra02 Vredestein Quatrac Pro 235/35R19 91Y XL camskill https://www.camskill.co.uk/m142b0s10014p165621/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_Pro_-_235_35_R19_91Y_XL_FP_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_2_Noise%3A_71dB Some Skoda Octavia MK3 vRS owners have fitted 235/35R19 instead of the standard 225/35R19 size to their 7.5Jx19 ET51 OEM rims. The official minimum rim width for 235/35 tyres is 8J. However, many owners don't seem to have a problem fitting this tyre size to the slightly narrower 7.5J rim width. One benefit of doing this is that the sidewalls bulge out a little more helping to protect the rims from kerbing damage. Another benefit is that mounting tyres to narrower rims improves the ride comfort as this helps the sidewalls flex more easily. A third benefit is that the slightly higher sidewalls of the 235/35 size compared to the 225/35 size will help protect against pothole damage. However, if you really want a lot of protection from pothole damage 17" rims such as 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 could be the way to go. Alcar 9021 Steel Rim 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/alcar/14750807 Vredestein Quatrac Pro 205/50R17 93Y XL https://www.camskill.co.uk/m140b0s8013p165628/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_Pro_-_205_50_R17_93Y_XL_FP_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_2_Noise%3A_71dB Fitting rims with an offset of 38mm instead of 51mm will increase your front and rear track by 26mm. 235/35R19 is a more popular tyre size than 225/35R19, hence the increased choice of tyres in this size. As you will see from the above, a Vredestein Quatrac Pro 205/50R17 93Y XL tyre with a new steel rim is cheaper than just the Vredestein Quatrac Pro 235/35R19 91Y XL on its own. The 205/50R17 is also a lot more comfortable than the 235/35R19 size, and you will get a higher top speed and more mpg due to less drag.

Job well done with those seats! Can you make a list of parts (modules and harnesses) and codings needed for retrofitting electric seat(s) with memory? At the moment I have standard (manual) half leather seats in '16 O3 (with MIB2 Bolero) and looking to retrofit drivers seat because I am sharing the car with my girlfriend. It's a horror now...

I checked that and the guidance on the new test requirements was published May 2018 including : There are new failures for: There are new failures for: brake lining or pad wear for: the indicator being illuminated But the guidance was withdrawn: This guidance was withdrawn on 13 June 2019 This guidance was published to help MOT testers prepare for changes made to the MOT test on 20 May 2018. The guidance is no longer current. It is not being updated. Make of that what you will!

Have you tried using a USB doubler? I can get a USB C doubler.. Something like this should allow you to charge from an adaptor, whilst you connect the other one to the USB port (in theory).

Can't confirm that on 100%. Next week I am going to do this retrofit by myself (already have "correct" gateway, but I need to change BCM to FL BCM, because my BCM not supports personalization and ambient lighting). Regarding the flashing.. I am sorry, I did a mistake. SW version (like 4326, 4328 and so on) is not important for situation what can I flash on certain gateway. The import is the three letter version of HW (like 5xx and 4xx). This means, that HW version above 5xx have the problem with resetting drive mode selection to NORMAL. I tried on my car version 521 (which has the problems I described earlier) and now I have version 442 without any problems. On Monday, I am going to add the FL BCM and I can test for you, if the ambient lighting should work how you described this. So, how you can find out, which SW can go to certain gateway: You need to follow the HW version (example 442). You can flash on this gateway "every" SW for HW 442, but still with the possibility of "burning" the unit. You need to do it in small steps. I will try to investigate it more the next week (maybe on Monday)

Other options injected into the R range

Great, the junk can stay in the trunk 😂👍 it'll save me faffing about then.

All sorted and fully working now! Thanks!

Have you read why I need to use the car usb?

Okay, admit it, who wanted to have a police car when they were young? I know I did. now I have a nice commie police car. Here's my 1972 Wartburg War castle 353 Tourist Volkspolizei car, with working lights and siren She's only done 29,500km. 500km of that in the last month. sailed through a 'mot' even have a full uniform and a second set of lights.

You do indeed need a Q revision Gateway, mine is also an L revision one but I want to either replace or flash mine at some point. Haven’t done it yet as I’ve not long put the data set onto the L revision Gateway after installing.

its true. if you take the number plate off a newish A4 or A5, the grill is probably as big the m4, its the way its split vertically makes it look strange.

Hi Alex, Rob, I must admit I didn't realise that I could get web radio via the e-sim, I did try it and I'm pretty sure it said I needed to connect via Wi-fi but I spent so long going round in circles trying to access the "shop" and being told I wasn't the primary user when the welcome screen said I was! that my memory isn't that good! My dealer (in Ipswich) was really good at enabling the app though but they are too far away from yourselves to help. But I still need to discuss with them a solution to sort out my unwanted almost full size spare wheel. I have tried Android Auto and that works OK although I personally find the built in sat nav is better than Google maps if only because Google maps don't completely fill the screen, in all other respects I think my "Connect" is working OK so I will try web radio tomorrow - I might find it works but I won't hold my breath.. Rod

Here is my second Octavia VRS TSI, as I previously had a 2011 MK2 fl.

After seeing Shy..'s post be flamed I thought i would try here . First tank (yes first - it is nowhere near run in yet) of my 2020 2.0 150 came in at 64.7 mpg (Brim to brim over 874.8 miles). About half of it was a run over to Norfolk in September, the rest local runs of up to 30 miles. This makes it about as good as the three year old 60k (well run in) car that went back in April. I presume they have updated the engine.

Oh Suzuki, what have you done https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/suzuki-across-toyota-rav4-based-suv-priced-£45599

Ok I have success, so finally got the new module 5Q0919294K delivered which was from a 2016 Fabia (luckily) and it was basically plug and play (no coding needed). So everything works as it is meant to. Lesson learned make sure module is from same brand and if possible same car

Just a quick update. The car already had a decent enough exhaust system on when I got it. The trouble is, the backbox was massive and knocked against the NSR spring. This was really annoying and my OCD couldn't handle it any longer. I took the car to my local exhaust specialist who's worked on a few of my cars beforehand. He replaced the exhaust from the cat back as it's a 200CEL cat anyway and here's the new system. As you can see, there's a twin exit tip, a much smaller back box and there's no more knocking against the rear suspension. The car sounds a lot better now and seems to spool up more freely than before. I was thinking that there might be an issue with the rear O2 sensor as my fuel consumption has increased considerably, but then the Mrs pointed out I was probably just enjoying myself a bit too much..... I could have lived with the old system in theory, but I'm glad I haven't and now I can move onto other things that need doing.

Comfort entry and key memory on the seats coded! When the door is opened the seat slide back and the backrest up a bit to help you out and then comes back with the door closed. Here it is doing it’s thing and moving the seat from my position to my wife’s position (who is 5’2” with short legs and I’m 5’7” with long legs hence the massive difference and the reason I wanted to have these seats) and back to mine again. Also does the mirrors as I have those. Nice one 🙂

Just collected this vision in Energy Blue with Canton, Virtual Dash, Blind Spot monitoring, Reversing Camera and 205 spare tyre in SEL spec so electric tailgate and Black Leather interior. Paid £22,800 which is about £10,000 less than a new one with 6,253 miles recorded.

https://www.topgear.com/car-news/hot-hatch/surprise-its-new-vw-golf-gti-clubsport

There she blows Had a great traffic free drive back from Sheffield. 150 miles, super comfy, great on the motorway, even managed to wrangle skoda connect to work. There are a few things I need to do (customise virtual cockpit, etc) but already it feels very familiar. I will have questions, probably on another thread!

Finally added the hardware to complete the 9VD Audi/SEAT Sound System retrofit. This isn’t a config Skoda ever offered and I’m very sure this is unique in an Octy so far. With some VCP magic it’s possible to load the 5 channel EQ and activate sub and centre speaker pins on the Columbus radios so I did it and with the extra speakers added I’m really happy! It’s no custom build and it’s not quite as powerful as the CANTON system (though I also have the cheeky ‘Sound by CANTON’ splash screen 😬 but I’m really happy. YouTube will compress the hell out of this but hopefully you can hear the centre speaker and sub working. That needs time to bed in a bit but I’m happy it’s added some low end for now. I need to adjust the grill a bit as it’s not gone back in quite perfectly but that’s a job for later. For now I’m happy the stereo system finally has some decent punch and all for under £130.

Nothing much to report other than I gave the car a going over with the rotary polisher. In reality the rear bumper and bonnet could do with a respray but overall the paint is in pretty good condition for its age. The trouble is that I have yet to find a local paint shop whose work I rate enough to give my money to. We had a decent chap round here once but he gave it up as he didn't make any money due to being a perfectionist.