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I had the pleasure of driving this at the weekend! (ps. No comments from police haters please - it's a job and someone has to do it. Remember this forum is just about the cars so keep it friendly please )

True story once got pulled over for overtaking a lorry on a B Road (I may have gone over the 50mph limit) but an unmarked white Police Octavia Vrs245 put on his siren and lights and I pulled over into a safe spot when I was driving my black Vrs245. He checked my details, had a friendly chat about slowing down and let me go without any fine or points. He must have been a Skoda fan and appreciated how quickly my 302bhp Octavia accelerated.

Because youtube isn't always a source of truth Anyway, this section of a VW Polo manual has an extra diagram showing how to jump a S/S vehicle from another S/S vehicle: http://www.vwpolo.net/how_to_start_the_engine_using_jump_leads-419.html

Thanks again for all the extra advice, at least most of it. I have today received a reply from Skoda who have changed tack somewhat and not surprisingly have rejected the appeal against their decision. They have though rejected the appeal on different grounds excluding it on the basis that a heated seat consists of a number of twisted wires which on Page 7 of the approved warranty booklet excludes faulty wiring. In light of this I have asked them whether an alternator, as it also consists of coils of wire around the armature is also excluded. I shall not let this drop however and will if necessary take it to the Small Claims Court but prior to that as has been mentioned I shall quote the CRA 2015 regulations to them and in a kind and benevolent way offer them the opportunity to put it right. I won’t hold my breath. It is such a shame that the car ownership which I generally have enjoyed is let down by the hassle of having to go through this process.

It never fails to amaze me though, the number of people that don't see an emergency vehicle coming! @VRSfan_78 Keep up the good work. Hope you and your collegaues stay safe in these covid times.

I am sure you will just ignore any police haters, although I have never read any on this site. Respect to you for doing a great job in this weird world at the moment. If you also managed to drive the previous VRS, how does this new one compare?

I am charging just now and it is just below freezing as it has been for a couple of weeks now other than when a few degrees above for a few hours at a time. So doing a 2 mile trip up to 8 or 10 times a day in town with 30 mph and 20 mph limits and with full heating on, heated seat and steering wheel on is giving 1 mile per 1% of charge in the battery. That means charging needed every few days. A couple of times on 3 pin charger at home as local chargers have been out of order. I have charged at home only for a short time to add some miles, but I really am too tight to spend a few extra quid on electricity. I changed from Octopus that I went over to and am with E-on now as they quoted me happy. Octopus was charging too high a tariff for my gas in the house.

When dealing with stop/start cars, I believe you should use a ground point on both cars (not the negative terminal) so the battery monitoring systems can see the the energy transfer

"The Savage Garage" YouTube channel made a 13 part video series on repairing the gearbox, oil sump and radiator replacement of a Fabia 1.2 Sport Htp 12V. This might be a good reference for anyone that want's to do this type of work on a Fabia. Part 1 I Bought This Car Spares Or Repairs. Lets Fix It! Part 2 Starting Work On The Skoda Project! Part 3 I Found The Gearbox Noise On The Skoda! Part 4 Replacing The Skoda Gearbox Bearings Part 5 Rebuilding The Skoda Gearbox! Part 6 Installing My Rebuilt Skoda Gearbox! Part 7 Skoda Project First Start Up! *Gearbox Rebuilt* Part 8 Fixing More Stuff On The Skoda! Part 9 I Serviced The Skoda + Found More Issues! :( Part 10 Tearing The Skoda Apart Again.. Part 11 Cleaning The Skoda Project! + MOT Prep (Part #1) Part 12 Cleaning The Skoda Project! + MOT Prep (Part #2) Part 13 Skoda MOT Day + Cost Breakdown! Other ŠKODA Fabia videos on his channel Skoda Fabia 1.2 TSI Service! I Fixed This car By Accident.. And For Free! Skoda Fabia Boot Wont Open! *Fixed* Skoda Fabia Oil + Filter Change Skoda Fabia Brake Pad Replacement - How To Front brake replacement - Skoda fabia TDI 2008

I think, that you don't need specific for Octavia, it is the same for Golf (and I am sure, that for a lot more). I am not sure about the cost, can't remember, I did this retrofit a year ago. I think, that the price for all was around 25 000 Kč (850 £) - I was using parts/units from damaged cars small pump, which is going from fuel tank to the auxiliary heater pipes to the engine (for water circulation) different climatronic with the button for the heater different aerial (antenna) on the roof auxiliary heater unit (and holder) coaxial cable for connection between roof antenna and the auxiliary heater unit wiring of course remote control for auxiliary heater coding/adaptation of course Auxiliary heater itself with exhaust pipe I am not sure, if this is the full list, but I think, that you could see, how many parts you need This list is written based on my car (EU car, on UK it could be maybe on the other side) auxiliary heater is in front right side under the head lamp auxiliary heater unit is on the left side of the boot I can't remember about any other useful information for you And based on the list of units in my car I have auxiliary heater unit 5Q0 963 272 J and remote control 3Q0 963 513. I hope, I helped you a little with this

I swapped out my fog light bulbs for a different design LED as my previous lamps seemed quite poor. I have the 272 engine so I am limited on lamp design due to poor access from the proximity of the additional cooler. The new lamps are bright but the throw was still quite shocking. I stumbled across an adjustment screw on each fog lamp and have now raised the height on both sides resulting in actual functioning cornering lamps! I'm a bit annoyed that I'd never actually investigated this before and I had just assumed they we're rubbish! No photos I'm afraid as I'm at work just now but worth trying if anyone else finds their functionality poor 👍

I ordered mine on 11th November (TSI, DSG estate and only additions were winter pack and variable boot floor) and was told on Friday that it is now in the UK at a port, dealership just awaiting it to appear on a delivery note but they were hoping it shows up by the end of the week ready for handover next week. Much quicker than my last VRS which was ordered 1st March and delivery mid-July.

Hardly safe to keep quiet about it. The risks are huge. Imagine 2 or bikes falling off on the motorway. Even though they have advertised roof bars which have since been removed from the sales blurb, the took the trouble to mention it in the user manual.

this one for example is a lot quicker to 200 than 22 seconds! mapped?

Latest set costed me just 4 euros, previous 53, but yes OEM set will cost several hundreds stock Indirect system gives false or too late warnings

I ordered a TSi, 6G Manual with winter pack option. Build week was quoted to me by the dealer on the day of order and I haven't been told anything different since then. Crossing my fingers and hoping it's not delayed by the current World disorder!!

I own a mk3 VRS but it's a diesel so it might be unfair to compare them. Both are brilliant!!

Just seen it Meteor Grey, 6,500 miles available at Marshalls, Croydon.

Just to wrap this up, I ordered the part from Simply Auto Parts via Amazon (marketplace) for less than £15 with free postage, arrived in two days, and I fitted it on Sunday. It was a bit of a struggle getting one of the hoses off the cooler, but took all told less than an hour. Started the car, temperature hit 90 degrees after about 15 minutes and has stayed there. First time ever that the car has been at operating temperature during my ownership! Very happy. So big thanks to PipH for his help and advice, and I would encourage anyone with low temperature problems to first look at this really inexpensive fix

yepp seems so, hopefully will be us fixed next

Very tasty. When I also see the paramedics scorch around in their Octavia estates loaded to the gunnels it proves Skoda's worth to the emergency services

Ordered mine 18th December (TSi, DSG with the reverse camera as the only option), dealer quoted April delivery but apparently build week hasn't been confirmed yet. @VRSfan_78 what spec did you order, and is that build week confirmed from the factory or a preliminary estimate (I'm wondering whether it's too early to start getting concerned!!)

Obviously a 150 would be Euro 6 and is a new engine so wont need the "Fix" Having lived with a 170 and 150 I'd go for the 150. There is hardly any midrange difference between the two 340nm vs 350nm and the 150 is more responsive, more refined, more economical and less likely to be caught up in ULEZ charges.

I ordered mine on 8 Jan 2021 and have been told that it's been allocated build week 15 and should be delivered in May :(

For those with a towbar with requisite wiring, you can charge through the socket as I do. Buy a plug of ebay and wire to your choice of charger.

I had the pleasure of driving this at the weekend! (ps. No comments from police haters please - it's a job and someone has to do it. Remember this forum is just about the cars so keep it friendly please )

Managed to sort radio issue out thank. It was just something i knew id forget and come back after work to a dead car! I will probably change it to an aftermarket one sometime in the future. And yes the car isnt too shabby, 1 owner from new and fsh i have stacks of paperwork. The only thing thats been changed is the interior to the mk2 monte carlo seats front and rear and the wind deflectors. Adrian

On models without Drive Mode Selection (i,e up to and including SE) there is no option to select ECO mode. However on ACC, you can chose "ECO, COMFORT, NORMAL, SPORT". I thought this related to the throttle response only. i.e when adaptive cruise accelerated it picks up very slowly in ECO, and quite rapid in SPORT. However, I have tried it in ECO, and came up to slow/standing traffic. I did notice that rather than slowing down gently as usual with little braking, the car came up behind the slow/stopped car quick quickly, and then put the brakes on quite hard (It was quite disconcerting, as I felt I needed to jump on the brakes myself!, and you dont usually get this feeling) Now you mention engine braking it seems quite likely this is the difference. In theory, not using ECO should reduce brake pad usage . It seems likely that ECO model on ACC, is actually running the same logic, as Drive Mode Selection would (i.e slow throttle, less engine braking )

There is a list of CAN-gateways known to cause battery drain here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Navigation_System_(RNS510)_Retrofitting @DovD - if you don't find anyone with VCDS, take a drive up the M11 as I work in Cambridge so close-ish to North London There are no 'stock' options that support Android Auto without a USB cable for this generation of car. For Android Auto, the obvious choices would be the MIB STD2 PQ style Bolero/Amundsen from a 2016+ Yeti or the Chinese RCD330. Having used both, I much preferred the Yeti headunit to the RCD330 although it costs more and need component protection dealing with. Either will cause battery drain if the CAN-gateway is on the 'naughty' list If I recall, the RCD330 had a few bugs around FM (no real RDS or AF support), volume and occasional missing BT connections. It's been a few years so later firmware's may be better? There are loads of aftermarket Chinese things but I've never used any. Otherwise, you can get a branded double din unit and appropriate facia adaptor. All down to you and what you want/expect really

Thank you so much for that, ill take a look when i get home from work. I dint remember seeing those clips last time i looked so i reckon it is them thats missing

On mine (2003) there are two metal spring clips that hold the cubby closed. Maybe one or both of yours are missing? I think I remember that one of my clips once fell out and I had to refit it. Yours might be slightly different being a vRS with the air outlet thingy in the cubby as mine doesn't have that but it should be something similar. Just gone out in the cold and rain to take a pic for you...

I find it useful to download the owners manual too (from ŠKODA Owner's Manuals (skoda-auto.com) This explains a lot more about how the various features work, and help you decide which options to add to a factory-build, (or to seek out on a stock car). Some may say I tend to go overboard on factory options, but I keep my cars for years and so the extra cost gets absorbed in its generic depreciation. Hence my adding a heated windscreen, 360 degree area view, and dynamic chassis control to my Karoq. But I really wish Skoda would let you have all-season tyres on a new car without having to get rid of the summer tyres they fit as standard! (I use to go for winter and summer tyres, but don't really get enough snow in Staffordshire to justify them, and so the set I bought 8 years ago still have plenty of tread but are time-expired! And although they fitted my last 2 Golfs, they are too small for my Karoq.) Chris

Just connect the positive (red) to the positive battery terminal and the negative (black) to the piece of unpainted steel by the side of the negative terminal - which is for that purpose. Look at your handbook if you need a visual, but it’s very clear once you open the bonnet and pull back the cover over the battery. I use my c-tec once in a while as my journeys in lock-down are shorter than usual and more infrequent. C-Tek keeps the battery in top condition and can be left on as long as you like without any risk of harming the battery.

This is it from the book

Ah right, I've emailed the manufacturer for more info, hopefully if it is the slam panel I may be able to work around it without hacking it apart! Which twin Pass have you gone for? I'd seen some and liked the idea but they all seem to need chunks of slam panel removed. As for the forge etc, I'm happy to spend bigger money on parts but I just can't justify the money on a radiator and a few pipes, but I guess you get what you pay for somehow with them

Did mine on the car. Can't remember if 3 or 4 bolt fixing. Think one of them was slightly more difficult to get at but generally straightforward. Run some emery cloth or similar around the carrier where the hub sits prior to fitting up the new one. A smear of copper grease may not harm either.

Maybe in Estonia, but in UK there is a choice (full details page 32 of link) Fixed every 10,000 miles or every year Variable 9000-20,000 or upto 2 years https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/4fb122b2-e597-4ebe-a59f-53f971824299

It would need the black badges too for that But looking great indeed!

Well... well... well... So let's recap. 1) It was not the cable between battery and alternator (??!) the culprit for voltage regulator's frequent failure. The battery was shot. 2) The ECU was not faulty. The battery was shot. 3) You didn't need an "immobilizer emulator" from eBay. The battery was shot. 4) You didn't need an extra earth cable. The battery was shot. The moral: NEVER assume something without a proper diagnose. In our case, a battery doesn't last forever. Moreover, measuring 12.6V on the battery poles without any load means nothing. The health of the battery is measured under load.

Depths of winter when sales go flat around Christmas

There should be good deals for stock cars in March as well as for bespoke orders with later delivery. I suppose it depends upon how selective you are?

I think the image ScoutCJB only really covers high beam assist. Oh - seems like they removed it? The owners manual doesn't say much: This gives an idea of what the car is trying to achieve with different light modes: It's somewhat limited as it can only move the two xenon projectors up/down and left/right. It can't actually change the cut off shape on an MK3 Octavia. In practical terms, this means: - urban (town) - moves the drivers headlight down and towards the opposite curb to maximise the beam width - extra-urban (country) - normal light pattern - motorway (expressway) - raises the lights slightly to get a longer beam - rain/fog - does something to minimise glare, not sure exactly what - cornering lights (dynamic swivel) - moves both headlights left/right as you go round bends The behaviour you're describing tallies with urban/town/city mode and should be active to around 30mph/50kph. If it's still happening at higher speeds, then something maybe wrong with the system, possibly a software update is required. So yes, I'm saying it's normal for the drivers headlight to swing right (RHD cars) at low speeds and it'll be very noticeable in mist Ages ago, I logged the headlight movement on my MK2 Octavia (AFSII xenons) which clearly showed the urban, extra-urban and motorway modes plus cornering lights: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/392736-adaptive-xenon-headlights-possible-on-fl/

The headlights have a series of modes - At certain speeds (i dont know the threshold) for town driving headlight aim changes to illuminate the sides of the road more. Additionally at motorway speed the beams adjust up slightly to illuminate the road ahead more Langers2K is suggesting that one light may be stuck in city mode so its purposely illuminating the side of the road more and the controller may need flashing / update. Its a good theory. Do the lights self test properly when switched on - ie they go up down / left right?

Not sure I understand what you are saying - are you saying that the offside headlight is meant to point at 30 deg away from straight ahead, and from the direction the nearside headlight is aiming? Surely not...?

Led lights are not E marked. I got an mot advisory.

It's suppose to... It's known as city mode and should be active up to about 30mph/50kph if I remember correctly. If it's working above that speed, the AFS controller might need an update. I think there were some problems with some AFS software versions...?

I've got the Eibach Pro Kit on my 230 hatch, which I took over the Sportline due to needing a ~30mm drop but retain some pliancy. The Sportline set, I'm led to believe, pretty much matches the H&R springs in terms of dynamic feel & slightly less 'felt' stiffness; whereas the Pro Kit adds more control and composure to the OEM ride, without impacting comfort (or NVH) too much - since the ride height isn't as reduced as the sportline ( ~10mm less drop), and being between 30-35mm overall. I would say that the OEM ride is pretty lax with a great deal of roll and pitch (mainly due to fairly weedy rear anti-roll bars), and one might be dissuaded from going back to 'standard' springs. Any decent aftermarket springs is an immediate improvement to ride and handling anyway. It's difficult to gauge the difference between both sets, especially if you were to use your friend's Golf GTI as an example - since even though it's the same MQB platform, it's still a very different car in terms of handling dynamics to the Octy. I'd highly recommend Eibach as quality suspension upgrade and it'll depend what you want out of the car which will help decide between Pro Kit or Sportline. I've driven around Cork a few times over 2017 and 2018 (somewhat spiritedly in a hire car...), so I have a feeling of what some of the roads are like. The roads around me are pretty crap (as well as having a lot of mountainous speed humps) so I felt a compromise on drop height vs. pliancy was required - hence the Pro Kit. In the meantime and semi-related, but have you taken the car to get a decent wheel alignment to check there's no issues with setup?

Nothing wrong with this ass

@ZacDaMan72 As you quoted what i posted you will see the start number is '18,000 miles there. That is near enough the 30,000 km figure. So if that is as far as you get km to get up to when in Imperial the indicators can let it be as much as 20,000 miles & near 32,000 km. Same oil same engines and just one of these VW Group things. Only the Citigo were put out in recent years without the choice of Variable /Flexible servicing.

There are three bulbs fitted to that module. One C10W in the middle and two W5W either side. LEDs are readily available for these and as far as I know you don't need to worry about load resistors since the BCM doesn't monitor these for bulb failures.