Leaderboard

I just looked this up - in the description text of the product it claims: PRODUT [sic] SPECS ACEA A3/B4 (2012) ACEA C3 (Chemical limits differ) VW 504.00/507.00 BMW LL-04 MB 229.51 Porsche C30 Please check your service manual to find out which oil you need Let me break this down: ACEA A3/B4 (2012) - the latest version of the ACEA specs is 2016; you are not allowed to make claims against obsolete versions. Furthermore, in order to make an ACEA claim you are required by ACEA to be signed up to their code of practice - guess which company isn't signed up? Furthermore ACEA A3/B4 (2012) is incompatible with most of the other claimed specifications by virtue of having too high an ash level. ACEA C3 - same applies as above regarding code of practice signatory, but also the "(Chemical limits differ)" caveat is nonsense - the whole point of ACEA C3 is that the chemical limits differentiate it from other specifications; the limits are on ash, sulphur and phosphorus, which are important factors regarding DPFs - you can't simply disregard these limits. VW 504.00/507.00 - given the lack of compliance with fundamental industry specifications (ACEA), I find it unlikely that they hold a VW approval (also see @Kenny R's list above). 504.00/507.00 requires that the oil meets ACEA C3 (in its entirety). BMW LL-04 - again unlikely; BMW LL-04 requires an oil to meet ACEA C3 (2016) in full. Porsche C30 is equivalent to VW 504 00/507 00 so see above. MB 229.51 - this one we can verify by checking the Mercedes-Benz published list of approved oils (last updated 11 January 2021). As you'll see, no mention of Brit Oil (in fact no mention of them at all in any MB approval categories). Furthermore notice what MB themselves say (my bold): We recommend using only products which are: distinctly marked with the label indicating the approval of Mercedes-Benz, e.g. “MB-Approval 229.51”. Labels referring e.g. to “MB 229.51” don't have an approval of Mercedes-Benz. Which are listed in the current MB BeVo. Only listed products are tested and approved by Mercedes-Benz. MB229.51 demands chemical limits aligned with ACEA C3. I can't say whether the oil is actually good enough to meet these specs, but the above evidence is worth taking into consideration when making a choice. As I said earlier in this thread, I've never heard of them (well I have as a consequence of this thread, but that's it). My personal opinion: I wouldn't use it.

Nope. All false.

I would find someone with VCDS to do a code read first. DPF's can get blocked up due to other items on the engine failing, the DPF is then unable to regen itself. A stuck EGR or Throttle Valve can stop the DPF regen. Have a look at the VCDS Owners map to see if anyone local to you. List of VCDS Owners (Previously known as VAG-COM) & VCP Owners - Diagnostics & VCDS - BRISKODA

If the garage is serious ask them to put in a new fully charged battery and reset the electrics . Old school cars you would be lucky to get an ignition light on let alone a full dashboard full. Cant help feeling there is some more than a flat battery. My friend had a similar problem when he changed his battery on his Polo had to get it rigged up to a VW computer and do a software reset.

The air con drain is almost impossible to get to easily from above, it is under a small pre pressed out flap in the heat shielding that covers the bulkhead in the engine bay. If accessed from underneath you can see it reasonably easily near the centre of the car. It is not so much a pipe, but more of a bung that has its end cut to form a flap. if it is blocked, a short length of stiff wire (about 2 inches or so is ok, any longer will get close to the internals of the a/c system in the air box) moved around in the flap opening will clear it. If it has got some water in there, stand to one side, as it comes out at a bit a rate once the flap is free to move - ask me how i know this.

See the attached ROUGH guide to fitting the rear wheel arch liners on a Citigo. If you wish to follow my guide you do it at your own liability. Fitting rear wheel arch liners 1.0A.pdf

can't comment details because i don't have this device, just managed to catch some links for those who have question: -> What Amundsen unit do I have? Mib1 or Mib2 for Mib1 units (2015 and older) Skoda Amundsen Seat Navi ? VW Discover Media Audi MMI Navigation ? # ECE 2020/2021 6.2 GB VW portal: #- #- #- http://vw-mapscdn.tdd.adacorcdn.com/P94_N60S3MIBS2_EU_NT_Q3.19.7z dead: 2020.07.0? VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/P94_N60S3MIBS2_EU_NT.7z Files inside: 2019.12.19 Downloadable: 2020.05.20 Published: 2020.06.15 Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD1_P94_EU_202022.zip Downloadable: 2020.05.18 Published: 2020.06.-- # Rest of World 2020 3.3 GB VW portal: #- #- #- http://vw-mapscdn.tdd.adacorcdn.com/P57_N60S3MIBS2_ROW.7z dead: 2020.07.0? VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/P57_N60S3MIBS2_ROW_NT.7z Downloadable: 2019.11.07 Files inside: 2019.07.10 Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD1_P57_MRM_2020.zip # Rest of World 2020-2021 VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD1_P61_ROW_202022.zip on Škoda's portal yesterday were updated Amundsen Mib2 files, but that are the same as VW portal got in last year November -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/480367-amundsen-mib2-map-updates/ ======= coverage ======= # EU Albania *, Andorra, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina *, Bulgaria *, Denmark, Germany, Estonia *, Finland, France, Gibraltar, Greece, Ireland, Iceland, Italy, Kosovo *, Croatia, Latvia *, Liechtenstein, Lithuania *, Luxembourg , Malta, Macedonia (Former Yugoslav Republic) *, Moldova *, Monaco, Montenegro *, Netherlands, Norway, Austria, Poland, Portugal, Romania *, Russia(European part) *, San Marino, Sweden, Switzerland, Serbia *, Slovakia, Slovenia *, Spain, Czech Republic , Ukraine *, Hungary, Vatican City, United Kingdom, Belarus *, Cyprus * * partially # ROW Argentina *, Australia, Bahrain, Botswana *, Brazil *, Brunei *, Chile *, Indonesia *, Israel, Jordan, Qatar, Kuwait, Lesotho *, Malaysia, Mexico *, Mozambique *, Namibia *, New Zealand, Oman, Philippines * , Reunion *, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Africa, Swaziland *, Thailand *, Turkey *, United Arab Emirates * partially ======= instruction ======= all what i know, files must be extracted to original SD card

https://www.barrons.com/articles/audi-unveils-electric-porsche-taycan-sibling-the-e-tron-gt-01611070976

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/new-2021-skoda-fabia-receive-substantial-design-overhaul

That tallies up with a set I've just found thanks again TMB you've put my mind at rest there I think the other company I asked at were guessing tbh left me not trusting to order but youve sorted it now cheers bud 👍

For the sake of £20-25, I'd be tempted to buy the file and ask your tuner to take a look to see if it's plausible... Assuming it is, a quick rolling road session should highlight any obvious issues.

I probably could have worded that better ^^^

There are mapping places that do have access to the cars original map to reinstall.

if you can see the starter from either underneath or where you have the grill off you should be able to see the power in from the battery which will be the heavy cable, this connects straight to the battery positive. if you attach a charger to this and ground you should be able to charge the battery up enough to open the door. The other connection which may be easier to get to is the alternator connecter shown in this pic this again is a positive.

if its been stood for a long time the alarm system can drain the battery if he just jump started and not run the car for a few miles it would not get enough charge so go flat again

Take it to a VAG indie garage for repair, don't let the cowboys you used last time near it again.

If you are 100% sure the brake caliper is not seized, then it's the brake hose.

May be a bit late but if you can connect a lead to the starter cable you can charge from here or if you use jump leads you may then be able to open the door. John

Allow 2 days for train to Emden Then 0-5 weeks, depends on other VW group cars making up a ship sized load About 4-7 days voyage (Sheerness, Grimsby or Tyne, might not be first disport) 0-2 weeks Awaiting a full road transporter (might do 2 dealers) So anything from 3 weeks to about 9 weeks, but I would suggest 5 weeks from build

Hmm, I had a look at that and I was a little surprised. I had a look at the Argos site and for £12.50 they can give me an evening slot for delivery on a Samsung FF. As it happens I had a little over a £100 on my Nectar card so that was a nice unexpected discount! I think you can guess I've bought the Samsung, unfortunately it's black, so no doubt it will be covered in the usual dinks, just more visible in fingerprint black I don't mind as long as they are not on the doors or damaging the rear radiator.

Trustpilot don't give Liebherr a particularly good rating Liebherr Group Reviews | Read Customer Service Reviews of www.liebherr.com (trustpilot.com)

For the engine, you've got a choice of a Ford Duratec V6, a Ford 2.0 Litre Diesel and a 122 bhp 1.4 litre VAG petrol (only once, I think, but I can't be totally sure of that). It is really odd that they all seemed to lose about 1-2 mpg, given that they are all such different engines. In that case, and slightly on topic, RedEx doesn't to do anything to make the situation better. Back off topic, up until recently, my local Esso has been slightly cheaper than the Tesco within a few hundred yards, and now the prices of both have gone up, and the Esso is, I think, 0.1 P more expensive than the Tesco. I didn't expect to see the Esso as the cheaper of the two, but it had been that way for 6 months plus. I've only tried Asda's fuel a few times, but every time I had the same experience

Sounds like the rear pads are sticking to the discs due to the damp atmosphere at the moment. If you are parking on a fairly level road, leave the handbrake off when parking but in 1st or reverse gear, which will prevent the car from moving.

I would have said values have held exceptionally well in the last year. Go on AutoTrader and dealers are still advertising 67/18 plate cars at £18,000 to £19,000 for 245s under 20,000 miles. You obviously have to account for 'doing a deal' margin etc. with advertised prices but those sort of figures are impressive in terms of residual on a Skoda. The cheapest one out there last time I looked was still over £16,000 with 50,000 miles on it.

That's interesting to know - thanks for the idea!

@lockesboy Welcome to the forum. Is this a 'Skoda Approved Used Car' from a Skoda Main Dealership with the remainder of the Manufacturers Warranty / 12 months, or are you getting a 24 month warranty. The car might have only 23 miles on it, but other than registered in 2019, when was it built? Time it gets an oil and filter change if that oil is going to be a year or 2 old. How long did it sit before registration? A new battery should be part of the deal also.

Just checked - I have 1666 and no pending updates (waited for 15mins in screen "checking updates" but no new ones were on).

Looking at the service manual, the labour doesn't look to be ridiculously bad on these to drop the DPF. If you're thinking of getting the DPF cleaned, check with the company whether they need the DPF removed or not, and whether they are quoting just for cleaning, or for removal, cleaning and refitting. If they are removing the DPF to clean it, your comparison at that point is the cost of a new DPF vs the cost of the cleaning process as the labour is otherwise the same. If you can find someone who is known to be good at cleaning the DPF it may be the better option, even if it doesn't last as long as a brand new DPF, given the age of the car and your annual mileage. I have my doubts about fuel additives, there's only so much they can do. It would be worth your while getting a bluetooth OBD adapter and installing the VAG DPF app on your phone: it allows you monitor the DPF condition in real time and can alert you when a regen cycle is coming up. Most of the trouble with DPFs comes from regen cycles not getting sufficient time to complete, especially on low mileage cars, leading to a buildup of soot in the filter that exceeds the engine's ability to clear it during regen. When I see a regen coming up on my Superb, I make sure to take the long way on my journey so it has time to complete the regen.

I am at the point of giving up. Skoda UK have been relatively ok at replying to emails but all they ever say is can we have screenshots so we can pass it on to our tech guys. I've sent them a screenshot of the Citigo opening screen (that was tricky as it only appears for 2-3 seconds) and a black screen. I can't really see how the heck that is of any help to their tech guys which is probably why I've been asked to send them 3 times now! Lucky we're not allowed to go anywhere at themoment

I'm not certain VAG ever did maps for South American countries, but to answer your question. The unit you have is not an MIB Amundsen which is the topic of discussion here. The maps for your particular unit are supplied on a single use SD card which is VAG specific, and you can't use any other SD card to copy maps tomthe unit.

Well I looked it up and it certainly sounds like the culprit! The wee Fabia was comfortable enough but utterly gutless, it would be interesting to try a one litre Octavia next time I'm looking at changing my car to see how it performs.

Looks alright. Any radial (clockface) play innit?

TBH I can't really tell the difference lol. As long as it works I don't care

@D23 Welcome to the forum. You first posted 'Britt Oil' then in the next post 'Britoil.' There is Britt Oil & Gas which is involved in Oil & Gas as there is the Britt Oil Company. . & there is Brit -Lube. But as to a connection to BP......... https://brit-Lube.co.uk

Thankyou for your help. I have found one water inlet, which as you suggest is behind the pedals. I have to find out how to remove the lower panel, and see if I can find the hole you suggest through I presume to the bulkhead ? I also have to find the drain pipe from the a/c. I use the a/c regularly in this cold weather, and more so now to demist the screen. All windows are running with water since the leaks. i have poured water into the scuttle near the windscreen wipers, and it does drain out, but maybe I should remove the wheel arch covers to scrape out ? It is so bad now, both sides of rear footwells, that I think I will have to remove front seats, and cut out carpet, because it will never dry at this rate. All this work, and the rain is relentless here in Wales. No chance of working in a garage. Best wishes.

Following on from the 110,000miles service our Citigo ASG has now just had its 120,000mile service!!! We've tried to share our servicing experience and decided to continue with using our local hammers garage. As this was an oil service it went absolutely fine with no issues engine wise - the only issue we had noted was sticking rear brakes and on inspection and cleaning it was advised that these would need changing. So the servicing issues we have experienced in the 120k: 1- Skoda garages do not really change spark plugs when they say they do - most probably as it will cost them to replace the coil packs which appear an issue to remove 2- Rear brake shoes replaced Warranty claims 1 - radio signal lost because of the antenna failure (x2) 2 - headlight lost adjustment 3 - Seat base height adjustment lever stopped working Honestly for what was essentially a £10k citigo new they are built very well and able to take on high mileage without any issues (touch wood) - weve decided to run our until it is uneconomical to repair so maybe some more updates in the future. Cheers

It got done and turned out the wiring when built is the 0.75mm heat resistant 5 core flex between the switch and the boiler, solid 3+ earth to the stat and 2.5mm solid on the power in side of things. All sorted, and all protected by multiple 3A and 2A fuses at the boiler and the isolator. Plumber pointed the fuses etc out and also that the only choices were heat resistant flex for the boiler connection.

Just about every owner with a KESSY system will probably have this at some point, the keys do a lot more than a conventional key and sap the battery faster as a result. In all fairness you've done well to get 12 months out of a KESSY key battery. The best advice I can offer is: -Replace the battery every 6 months -Upgrade from a cr2025 to a cr2032 -Don't buy cheap batteries that are 20 for a quid. Buy varta, duracell, Panasonic etc

I'd suggest buying an hour or two and downloading everything you can find for future use. It's the only official source I'm aware of and given how new the MK4 is, I doubt many unofficial sources exist yet.

I could buy one but only if I sold one of my 2 homes and that might mean a divorce and me living in the car.......so perhaps have to keep dreaming.

member on here @WolfyWesty has fitted an android big screen head unit successfully to a Rapid.

Thanks. I can't find a leak. I'm getting the head gasket pressure tested....we'll see.

I had the pleasure of driving this at the weekend! (ps. No comments from police haters please - it's a job and someone has to do it. Remember this forum is just about the cars so keep it friendly please )

id wager the waterpump is leaking. or you have had a massive airlock after the replacement stat. but if its constant.. check the pump first. (esp if the same garage that did the belt is saying its the headgasket) get a genuine bosch temp sensor for the needle flutter. vag engines dont like pattern sensors and it start fluttering again soon.

Worth checking hose joints. Pink residue is sign of a leak. If you can, put a sheet of cardboard under the car overnight, it might point you in the right direction of the leak.

Except the 4x4 1.8t which had ko3s I know I own one 😂😂😂

Well I'm a Redex convert now! Not only did they not apply 3.0 l/m to the test, they didn't use 0.8. Instead it was tested at 0.6 but came out at 0.22, which is the lowest I've ever seen it.

think manouver assist is where if someone pulls out on you in auto stops the car when reversing. also the speed limiter is hidden on the button on steering wheel for the car assist options (found this out other day) you can swap the cruise control for speed limiter. i also question the electric boot release and was told must of been mistake on website even though its there in black and white.

When a car get run around town a lot, exhaust soot builds up in various nook & crannies inside the exhaust system. When the MOT tester does the smoke test, he floors it which blows out all the soot, which then gets measured with the machine giving a high soot reading. It's always best to give the engine a good thrash before the MOT & blow out all the soot. Get onto a fast open road, put your foot down in 3rd from 2000 revs & watch the cloud of black soot in the mirror.