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Hi there, I'm a 47 years old Egyptian anesthesiologist, just joined the club with the new "Egyptian" version of the 280 ps, 4×4, DCC, 6-speed DSG superb 2021

Perfect thanks, I've since been doing my homework on this subject and so far i have wired up the relay holder in the under bonnet fuse box, put in the 50A fuse to protect the circuit and also installed the terminals in position 14. Coded the central electriconics module so that when the heated screen button is pressed the light doest just go out it actually stays on now, and i also know that the relay I've installed is triggered and out puts the voltage up to the wires that will attatch to the heated screen when i get it installed. So im just getting the last few pennies together to pay for the screen and I'll post up the rest of the photos ive got then. Photos below are of pregress ive got so far, will post the rest when ive got the screen installed! Thanks for the heads up about the position of the connectors! Out with the old In with the new The bible! Under bonnet relay Coding changed from 0F000a46..... to 0F000A66 so that i get the below code

After 5 almost faultless years with costs limited to new battery, a better stereo, spare alloys with winter tyres, rubber mats and service items we sold our cherished Roomie Scout this morning. I don't normally care who buys a car but this was different , I'm pleased to say that it was bought by a young lad who will fill it with mountain bikes and use it for what it was designed - having fun!

Cam sensor and O-ring...

These are the breather pipes....

Im guessing the hole around where the clip goes has rusted away and now is bigger than the clip? If so i temporarily fixed mine by using a tin lid - like a tin of beans lid 🤣 and then put it in between the heat shield and the clip like a big washer.

@Chrigdo you have a History of servicing and preventive maintenance over the past years as what was done and where? Maybe best find a local VW Independent Specialist and get done stuff that might be outstanding. Your mileage is the same as a car might have had at 2 years old and have got a major service which is not much other than an Oil & Filter change and a Pollen filter and look see. What was done at 3 years old? ? Is it a petrol or diesel Octavia? Brake Fluid change was due at 3 years old, so at least the H20 content should be checked if not changed. The Air Filter could do with being looked at if not to be changed. Pollen Filter due. Oil & Filter and change the service interval maybe to Fixed if the car is still on variable / flexible. Things need doing maybe like the brakes serviced / cleaned / greased. Stuff Main Dealers charge a lot for doing and are not part of an Oil & Inspection Service or even the Extended Scope.

When my cars are out of warranty I always take them to a local VAG specialist or independent - no need to pay dealer prices!

I doubt your new ride will put you to sleep...

I have listed all parts at bottom of post and maybe someone might find the info useful. 1st thing to note is that the standard speakers are in my opinion poor quality 7" I know some may disagree, if you like listening to the radio without a full round sound and fluffing speakers then this post isn't for you as standard set-up clearly will be good enough ;-). Deciding that I wanted to do a sound overall nearly as soon as I bought my Yeti I decided to replace mine with quality 6.5" sets of speakers rather than the poor 7" ones & these require reducer adaptor rings/standoffs, 7" quality speakers are far more expensive than 6.5" ones and for me not worth the extra £3-500 it is also worth noting that the original speakers/surrounds are rivet fitted, a drill and rivet gun will be needed to do the job. I did try modding the first surround but realised after a lot of cutting and finishing that for the cost it just want worth the time involved to make the reduction needed 4 times. For front I went Helix audiotex S62C 100w RMS component speakers, these come with a great tweeter also and priced at £218 (made an offer) I thought fairly good price for what is a decent speaker. I tried to initially mount the tweeters from the front dremelling out a hole to fit the enlarged tweeter to find once trail fitted that the cover doesn't fit. The correct/easiest way is to remove the original tweeter (Thinners pored round the glue left for a minute allows the glue to release with a bit of sensible pushing so as not to break the surround (thumb press in enough) then simple heat glue the new tweeter to the rear, all fits no issue and no cutting etc. You will see what I mean when you try this. I should also say that I have used the original loom to drive everything bar some adaptor cables I bought. To the rear fitting is easier and I went again for a decent speaker that will generate a bit more depth than the fronts to give a more full overall sound. Hertz MP 165.3 Mille Pro 6.5" woofers 100w RMS again replacing the 7" standard ones, these were in comparison quite a cost effective upgrade and priced at £135 again I feel great value. The adaptors are needed again in the rears along with drill and rivet gun, but fitting is much quicker than the from as I didn't fit additional tweeters. Fired up the sounds and the before and after are properly chalk and cheese. For most this would be a great upgrade and fulfil a general speaker upgrade. Well for me yes I was happy with the general sound and depth but it just lacked a touch of punch, so decided to fit a small amp so that I could drive the sound lower down (amps are not all about making systems louder although obviously they will also do that. I opted for a Match PP 62DSP £375 (so not the cheapest thing) because it comes with the cambus loom to fit straight in (as plug and play) there are specific head unit adaptors which my supplier sent as well included making this install almost too easy. That is until you want to get the head unit out! Watch on YouTube really, but long and short you have to trim remove the surround that goes around all the heating controls and a bit of other trim to reveal the size 5 star fixings so you can lift it out to connect the looms. My starting the system back up and setting all the sounds left me verbally saying WOW what a difference! Without the amp I was 100% happy so going further is just cream. The problem this then created in sound was some of the warmth was taken. Now understand that I use my car to tow a race car so boot space is important for tools & stuff when going on events so my next and final decision was based on compromise rather than just outright correctness as it where. To get some warmth and full roundness, to the now awesome system I decided to fit an sub woofer (the amp and system I used supports this). I hunted high and low for what I thought would be a good balanced sub that could be fastened to the back of the rear seat. I eventually decided after many hours hunting and researching to go for a under-seat sub (yes can be fitted upright no problem). My choice the Soundstorm (SSL) LOPRO10 1200w Subwoofer priced sensibly at £139 which I assure you in sound belies its concept and size for a 10 inch sub! I am not trying to move enough air to get the windows to pop out bear in mind, but create a sound in car with full range and surround like capable warm strong feel you may get in a car like a Volvo or BMW with quality upgrade systems. I also bought a subwoofer wiring kit link below. Conclusion: Was it worth doing and the cost? Yes 100% completely transforms the cars standard sound whilst retailing the factory head unit which to be honest is very good in my car as it has nav/media etc... Would I do it again or different? Actually no, I found a recipe that worked 1st time! Having family in the car means we listen to everything from Garage/House/Rock music right across the range of general pop to the wheels on the bus go round and round, so does it all and does it well! I thought for some you may want to cherrypick some of these upgrades as time goes buy so you set out the links to the original sources of the bits although I understand these will stop working over time which is why I listed the names of everything also in the post. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HELIX-Audiotec-Fischer-S-62C-6-5-100w-RMS-Component-Speaker-set/233202058660?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hertz-MP-165-3-Mille-Pro-6-5-165mm-Car-Midrange-Woofer-Speakers-Set-100w-RMS/333103856768?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Yeti-Match-Amp-harness-Package-PP62DSP-FREE-PP-AC-Harness-Cable/233162543995?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item364992137b:g:XvYAAOSwdC5chV6E&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkai8xCwosGKpC0NWj85e%2FB82EhrALHtaP7GJJs%2B9u0853ULURJVVt3H3bLvjqHPBo%2BeWxKlDI4Ak1duL7ippcBoZA%2BvYhLm%2Bu324ApumfoxWX7zj%2FHlSB5d55pA6V2vPC59qMaBivGNgs53xqeQBCkO5vasgb2Gf9YUgr9BKfnY7A%2BLMApR9XPpMGwzIRam74Dchlel0fAFPjbvuQ3TvGWBlpkIf0rgMxqkwEI418VV0xUeJtgSaOE%2F%2Fqh2zuDkNHWSmcHEdYcQM%2FjSqBPY2P4k9wRtgZMH6TQLBrnsPTbMGUYLPb0igS2asSPdryQSbxXI%2BekUPk9lhAZF901zcRPoin2MJ7MQZTO7PYPheQeGvmvojGy2TNHJeLQOj9QwNSoosdEt9VXPUufieSsGeKLaOVNubzt%2FhQa%2BWWbtOtuD%2BSbDfJ0JBsU6uWUV1QColmu3wX3pxcZbNnFfkB%2FcdPCYZ55OBaGl89trVlHfN%2BSTGb9rewHG4eRmiC1odyBL4lkB%2BNmhKf9BzKwU0HB9AhgB9HwByolGgDQZodWg1ByjwGR8Pwd04MOQREoB%2F8x5GSKpz%2F5ZXPTMu2hEHywakgeNWUToG5jUm8bcrIGCPip7VknDE2hbciiSjVOx6dV0NpUJciEoJAShTNf6TITJF%2B5%2BWN59XbSybrl2lBgqLH3n3TvXZp6GVid%2B4oOjEa5u64YScWQB6bsOLaMjxBO8L2gnDstobz%2BKGBA4zc5tPBAVaiM724b6dJGNUC2Yu44P2MxYR94F32j4SOrGgz1F2lrA%3D%3D|cksum%3A2331625439950ff325f3d0f447f0a91b9a7e3b7a9884|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 https://www.amazon.co.uk/10IN-1200W-LOW-PROF-SUB/dp/B001CY13W2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1200-Watts-Complete-8-AWG-Gauge-Car-Amplifier-Amp-Wire-Sub-Subwoofer-Wiring-Kit/264990735143?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-speaker-wiring-plugs-Yeti-Plug-Play-speaker-adaptor-connector-leads/133548878106?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/search.html?search=CT25VW16

@newbie69 also b careful of fog bulbs with "big butts" as they won't fit in the space behind, especially if u have a 272/280 Superb, as it will hit the radiator located there. I got the Lumileds bulbs in mine - been 2 yrs n still happy with it. They have an adjustable base so u can ensure optimum throw in line with the fog light reflector shield inside. Also, ideally u don't want light throwing out of the top of the bulb as it will scatter the fog light beam, and **** off oncoming drivers. U can see the original one has a "cap". The LED version I got doesn't have light emitting from the top, just the sides.

Fitted a baf motorsport rear strut brace, nice bit of kit

I think the bungee cords that hold the back seats up when folded forward are a poor design. Way to much effort required to hook them around the headrest chrome tubes. I find it difficult and my wife finds it impossible. Look at the pictures and see the easy modification. I had some chrome 100 mm S hooks laying around in the garage, I think they were only a pound for 3 from a market stall. 3 small strong magnets secure them under the seats when not in use so easily to get at when required.

So, have noticed the Superb doors open a lot wider than the Legacy's did. And have been close to hitting the wall capping on my drive, despise stuff like that. Solution now in place... Copper pipe insulation, pvc tape, long screws and washers so no chance of hitting the screw heads, sorted...

Top work as always Lee.

I always recommend a genuine VAG sensor as some of the pattern ones are crap. Febi should be OK though.

Actually, as I've said, sometimes it is a bit confused here in Egypt: the Engine is cjx, 280ps (206kw) and 350N.m (not 380). And yes it is 2021 model 😅😅

I don't know where you can find it. I have this code reported on vehicle registration document, on a S/N that says "DNUA" at some point. DNU is engine, A is the power output version (the lower 272 in my case). CJX is the older engine version. DNU has lost dual injection (MPI or port injection), lost exhaust valves, and "gained" OPF. But it is basically the same engine.

You have to go to a Dealer for them to confirm you own the vehicle as locking/unlocking a car using a phone App could be used by criminals to steal a car so this is a security measure you have to go through.

All sorted hopefully changed all four spark plugs then changed coils on 2 & 3 cleared the faults and its running perfect so far

So an update, luckily it ended up being a loose plug on the alternator preventing the alternator kicking in until the engine reached 1500rpm. I don't know how this has came loose or if someone in a garage might have done it in the past.

given you like the off roading, theres a couple of climbing challenges may suit you. the lecol one was to log 5hrs in 2weeks iirc. got my voucher code and entered into a draw for 2900quids worth of their gear. the jacket i order was €165 and i got it or 106 and free delivery this weekend. well chuffed, as i needed a new decent waterproof jacket that isnt company issue fluorescent orange

Never created a topic on international forums. Because I really get a lot of information on Briskoda from fellow users, I think it is fair enough to show you guys my own car and what I've done to it. On 17th of April this year, I bought a Skoda Fabia MK2 1.2TSI 105bhp from 2010. Car itself is quite loaded and the owner before me already did some upgrades to it. How I got the car (changes I could see and find were the Eibach springs, Fabia mk3 wheels, retrofit Xenon headlights, Monte Carlo front grille and shifter. After I've collected my car and drove it around, the hunting for parts and upgrades started. Genuine Skoda roofracks. The speedo meter needle had issues (LED was trippin') so I've upgraded them from plain white to green. After that, I've tinted the windows by myself. No bubbles or weird cracks. Seems fully original. Very pleased with the results for a DIY. Added some colour (RGB) to the interior by placing ambient lights. Bought for a very good price a set of VRS wheels in 17" They needed a refurb but who cares for 100euros including tyres. Bought some Brembo 4 pots 323MM brakes from a Seat Leon Cupra R. No I don't need that moch stopping power (I know you guys love the 312mm setup and you upgrade the brakes after you upgrade the power ) but I always love to have big brakes because of 2 major things in my opinion: 1. Looks way better and cooler and 2nd. stopping better and earlier is safer in any circumstance. I've restored the calipers myself and painted them Skoda Rally Green. After fitting them on the car, the VRS wheels didn't fit anymore (the inside of the wheel is not meant to fit a BBK). Bought (again) for very cheap a seat of Audi TT wheels (I mean.. 50euros for a set?!) Bought some rubber in the correct size (205/40/17) and mounted them on the wheels and fitted them on the car. I was keen with what I had till I saw a good KW V2 set on sale for a fair price.. Well, we know what happened next lol After getting frustrated by the look of the wheels, I've decided to give them some paint. Primer: Graphite metallic: And this is how the car is right now Thats it for now. Plan is to fix the squeaking accessories belt and I'll try to drive it like how it is for a couple of months. when the turbo claps out, I'll swap it for a hybrid one to get to plusminus 170bhp with a custom remap. also wanna make the front lights darker since it is way to bright (don't like chrome). Thats it for now, will update later.

You are right about the seat clips, I have memories of dealing with them , nasty things.

@PLEASE Welcome to the forum. The garage has messed up doing the work so there is not much more to it than that. Maybe they have not diagnosed the fault correctly before getting a MSU, and maybe they had coding issues from fitting that and getting the pump working. Not unknown for Main Dealerships fitting new MCU's. Is this a Skoda Main Dealership that did the work Are you someplace with a 3 year Warranty on the car?

That looks a strong brace.

Moving things slightly forwards (hopefully) now I have never attempted this type of work before but what the hell if I make a mess of it all is not lost as parts a still readily available. With the aid of a Haynes manual, this forum and youtube I got to it although the car is on axel stands the working space is rather tight. I removed the offending driveshaft with the split cv gaiter (offside) from the car yesterday, the three captive nuts on the lower ball joint were in a sorry state , when I liberally sprayed them with penetrating fluid 3 weeks ago I wrongly assumed that they would un do fairly easily, how wrong could I have been! One out of three complied, second one with the aid of a Stilson wrench came loose the last one refused and with no room for the wrench I had to hacksaw it off being careful not to catch the surrounding suspension arm. The drive shaft was complete with manufacturer's sticker and dated 2005 so was original issue to the car, once I had the one shot locking drive shaft off the shaft would not come loose from the hub. I remembered I bought a set of "British made" 3 leg pullers when I was 18ish so I gave them a go and with a slight bang they pushed the shaft loose. I then cleaned an area on the gearbox cv joint so as I could tip ex a mark to allow re fitment in the same line up when repaired just in case of balancing issues. I clamped the drive shaft in my vice and decided to loosley fit smaller nuts and bots through the gearbox end cv holes in case I came apart as there appears to be several sections , then I de greased this joint with brake cleaner and covered it with a plastic bag. Today I have removed the outer cv joint with a soft rubber hammer and carefully eased out the six ball bearings and the two cage thingies, de greased all parts and looking to paint the rusty part of the cv joint. Now I am no expert there does no appear to have been any ingress of foreign bodies from the gaiter split as the bearings, cages and main joint look in amazing condition, there are some vey slight marks but I am hopeful all will be ok once I re assemble with new grease and boot.

Yes. Ask around your friends and family. Where do they get their cars serviced and MOTd? Your car is out of basic warranty so no need to curry favour with an expensive main dealer.

First comment is that they are mounted so low that using them would only be legal in fog to use at other times they need to be at least 500mm high- not what you want I'm guessing? IMHO rectangular lights would look better.

Had mine done recently at an independent VAG garage, my 2017 Yeti has 37k miles, previously had the Haldex oil changed by Skoda, but I doubt the filter has ever been cleaned before.. Before After

Gearbox mount and the alloy block that bolts to the gearbox casing is obviously different but hopefully all will go in without issue.

Just as well the Service Recommendations with the 6 speed boxes has been good for well over a decade, but it will be a few years before we know with the 7 speed wet clutch DSG's.

I completely agree, I would never fit them! It was taken from newbie link where they ordered H8 leds. This is what they received: But I don't think the left bulb is a H8/H11/H16 version, if it was, I'd expect it to look like this: The design you posted: Is exactly what I fitted to my FL MK2 Octaiva. However, rather than being a genuine Philips version, it was a cloned Chinese thing that was significantly cheaper

Only Skoda UK recommend such an early change of the cambelt, no other Skoda importer nor the Skoda factory (nor VAG as the engines are used in most VAG marques) recommend a change so early - some VAG documentation even suggests that they are "lifetime"? It's been asked on here many times what makes the UK such a bad environment for cambelts? The conclusion, so far, has been it's Skoda UK doing some covering of their rear end

thank you really very much appreciated. will have a look there tomorrow

I'd like to offer some advice after doing this install yesterday, and also seeing guides and general chat about how to do this that could be DANGEROUS..... Firstly, the safety part.. The A pillar of most modern cars contains an airbag curtain which drops vertically down at very high speed, protecting you or your passenger from striking their head on the glass or intruding object. Most people seem to run the cable along the headliner at the windshield to the corner (fine). The problem IMHO is that majority of the advice I read is to then jam the cable between the plastic trim and roof liner, and cross underneath the airbag (!), then run down the rubber trim the length of the pillar. By crossing underneath the airbag, you are effectively blocking the deployment of the airbag properly in the middle of its width, OR during deployment the bag will rip out your cabling and possibly dashcam, sending this towards the seat occupant at great speed.... So, don't do this. Please. The plastic trim on the A pillar seems to be near impossible to remove, but if you can, the above method should be okay so long as you can cable above and behind the airbag carefully. What I did however, was run the cable down the windscreen, to the seam in the dashboard, then carefully pushed the cable using the blunt back of a teaspoon into this crack, completely concealing it, and then allowing access via the side panel to the fuse box. GROUND: When you open the dash side panel, there is a convenient bolt (with nut) that I used for ground - simply find another but with the same thread and add it on, trapping the ring securely. REAR CAMERA: For the rear camera, I opened the boot and gentle loosened the headliner clip in the centre. I then used a length of what we call 'yellow tongue' (flat firm 3m piece of plastic for pulling cables) and pushed from this end all the way along the to roofline until it popped out at the windscreen, then taped on the rear camera and pulled the plastic back out. This was actually very easy! I fed the cable through the rubber elbows to prevent water leaks - but I did break both clips doing this, and I'm still not sure how to get these out without doing so, so please use caution. FUSES: I used fuse taps for both the ACC and 12v wires - the 12v I got from the cigarette/12v fuse, and the ACC from the USB fuse (mini fuse). Hope this helps!

Brake Energy Recovery in detail. 3 seperate recordings of voltage and current on the VAG “Smart” alternator. Very interesting the wide scope of both voltage and current across the 3 seperate runs. Equipment used to takes recordings was Fluke AC/DC Volt meter and Fluke DC current meter. Both meters able to record live data. Voltage data recorded directly from battery positive terminal and negative earth connection on the firewall. Current recorded directly from main positive cable 100mm from positive battery terminal. All three runs were over a total of 100+km distance incorporating Urban, highway, and back street roads. SKODA RUN 1.pdf SKODA RUN 2.pdf SKODA RUN 3.pdf

Just stay on top of scheduled servicing and you'll be ok, I wouldn't throw any more crap at it though or it'll join the ricers in the weeds!

Never go back to an old flame. It may be a tempting proposition, but all the old problems still remain.

These intervals are way too long, maybe if you drive 90% highway, they would be ok. Oil service every 25k miles for both DSG and Haldex+filter cleaning is what I’m following. And as a time interval, no more than 3 years if miles aren’t reached. My haldex was serviced twice for 4 years - on 35 and 70k miles, and what I saw today( 6 months and 7k miles later) is so much gunk in the hosing that it’ll most likely block the pump in the next 30k miles. But maybe that’s because the official service manual doesn’t mention filter cleaning.

My car is going back to the dealer this coming week to have the towbar fitted. They have given it me for cost price including driving the 260 mile round trip to pick up and drop off the car. I haven’t been back to the independent tow bar fitter to ask if they have managed to resolve the issue they indicated they would have. I will do that on Monday and confirm if they were able to resolve it as a reference for others. Would I have bought this car had I known about the cost and hassle of aftermarket tow bars, probably not! Hope others manage to get it resolved.

So in EU only, you can drive and charge a toothbrush legally at the same time.

16 days from order to pickup this Saturday. Got lucky. The dealer had one on the way with exact colour and spec as I wanted 😃.

For earlier Mk2 and non FL Mk3, its 5 years or 60k miles. I wouldn't risk my car going to 140k miles. That's just crazy.

Had the front wheels off today to check the tie rod ends. They certainly look bad but I couldnt feel much wrong with them. I'll keep them in mind to replace sooner rather than later though. Anti roll bar D bushes looked ok, drop links I'll probably replace because they seem past their best. Also, when I was under there I noticed that the springs look to be done not long before I got the car, I can still see the coloured dots on them. I noticed the rears were like new when I was under there doing the Whiteline also. Since I had the wheels off I gave the calipers and hubs a very quick spray of VHT silver. I wire brushed then sanded the hubs and calipers, sprayed them off with compressed air and sprayed them silver. It was a very quick job and I did it mainly to prevent the wheels from welding themselves to the hubs. Its a good thing I did because I could see rusty sludge forming on the hub, made sure to sand the hub smooth. The brakes are rusty because it was sitting straight after being washed. I didnt mask anything though, I just sprayed the paint on and got some petrol on a rag to clean off the disc. Brakes painted wheels back on. Drove the car around to scrub the discs off, first stop was sketchy but it was fine after that. On an unrelated note, I'm impressed with how well the wheels have held up. As far as i'm aware these are the original wheels and were never powdercoated or anything other than a bit of touch up paint here and there. Might try and see if I can use the polisher and make them really pop. In fairness that picture was not taken in the most flattering light but my point still stands.

I've been using unit18 since 2015, not just for servicing but add on's too, from retro fit cc, changed my steering wheel to the flat bottom version, remus exhaust, R600 intake, front grill change to the superskoda honeycomb version & servicing every year since 2015 & everything is always spot on from these guys, quality workmanship, service & most of all they are very honest & fair. Just say to Alistair that Richard with the blue Skoda vRS combi recommended you from the forum, you won't get a discount unfortunately but what you will get will be a reoccurring visit every year as you will be very happy with there service etc... I come all the way from London to travel to them (1 hour) there is plenty garage's in around the London area but I don't trust them. I've always received great service from unit18 so I've had no reason to go elsewhere & lets say even if they did do something wrong (which they haven't) I would always give them the benefit of the doubt purely for all of the good times outweighs. Also I believe in mistakes can sometimes happen but you know with a main dealer most of them try to cover this up.

I got a quote from unit18 as "Price for cambelt and water pump replacement would be £380 incl parts, labour and VAT." This sounds unbelievable. On their website they have also mentioned that they are using genuine parts.

engine: 1.8T VRS Type: Mk1 Octavia VRS Estate Mileage:250000 Cambelt changed 3 times Manual 5 speed Gearbox oil changed X times 0 Any other major work done? Sump got cracked so replaced it and oil pump at the same time @ 180k. Other than that all still original clutch, turbo and after some surgery, the exhaust.

Just fitted 3 Bosch blades to my Octavia3. £31 in total from wiper blades.co.uk. Ditto to SWMBO Kia Picanto. Price was the same.