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Rusty has been at Wellington European for a couple of weeks, I dropped it off with a list, which grew slightly as they started work. Suspension knock on full lock was caused by the subframe polybush metal inserts being slightly too long so I had torqued the bolts against the insert, not the body itself. This left play in the subframe. They're shortened now. The high pressure line from the brake booster was slightly leaking, so that line has gone off to have a replacement made locally. They're looking at the oil leaks now. But the big news is that it's finally boosting as it should, no more 4k rev cut !! It was caused by corrosion inside the wastegate making it stick, plus the banjo bolt connecting from the intake manifold was corroded, meaning it was tight but leaking and causing a vacuum leak. I'm so excited now about driving the car again.

So the time has come to move my beloved Octy on and I’m super pumped to say that I’ve paid my deposit on this lovely lean green machine 💚 It’s a 2019 Superb SportLine Plus 2.0 TDI 150 DSG with the following options Variable Boot Floor Folding tow bar Exclusive Dragon Green paint That’s all it has for now but there’s a laundry list of retrofits to get through on it in time. It’s having a service and DSG oil change currently along with a full prep this week for collection in early March. I legit can’t wait to finally be a Superb owner!!!!

It's a false economy nowdays. The climate system is clever, by having the aircon button on it's just gives the climate system the ability to use the aircon compressor. The climate control will only use the aircon compressor when it needs it to maintain temperature or humidity levels. Thus the fuel economy impact is actually very small. And is certainly cheaper than any aircon repair. The only time I turn my aircon off is when I'm driving with the windows open which is probably a few days a year.

So, this draws us to a close on this thread, no more updates as the lovely Octy has been sold and replaced with something new for collection in early March. If you want to follow the progress on the new toy, the thread is linked below.

Not checked the Yeti but on the Octavia it's combined with the rain/light sensor on vehicles with climatronic.

Got the suspension pretty much done just one front left as I ran out of time, sits at a good height and set them for two clicks off softest to see how it goes, also fitted new exhaust mounts to the back box. I’ll finish off tomorrow and give her a service too well overdue

Yep, the VW version works fine but that's not the point. It's the same software as the Skoda one but Skoda have somehow stuffed it up again. Why should any Skoda owner have to use a sister companies app just because Skoda can't get their act together? Skoda customer service is appalling :( It's becoming more about principal now.

Rain, damp and humid weather can also be common in parts of Scotland and snow. Climate control / AC on can be a very important item to use during these times when opening a sunroof is not simply clever or even windows if no wind deflectors are fitted. But it is good that people can do as they wish and only they know if they get steamy windows. A damp interior is the cause of many vehicles steamy windows. Also faulty A/C or unused A/C.

https://autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/new-hyundai-ioniq-5-arrives-retro-design-292-mile-range

With the Amundsen unit only an official Skoda card will work and it has to be left permanently in the SD1 or SD2 slot for the Amundsen to continually read the map from the card. On the other hand, things are completely different with the Columbus unit as any spare sd card can be used and the map is then uploaded and stored on the actual unit allowing you to remove the card as it is then not needed. So, as you have an Amundsen, you will have to use your original Skoda card. Copy everything off the card to your pc as a back up just in case anything goes wrong. Format your Skoda card to FAT32 go to http://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/?appVIN=&appLanguage=en-GB and enter your VIN and you will be offered map updates. Choose your map and download it to your pc. Once it has been downloaded you then extract ( unzip ) it. Open the newly extracted folder until you see a folder named " maps " and a text file. Copy the " maps " folder and text file onto your empty Skoda card and then place the Skoda card into your SD1 or SD2 slot. Job done.

As you might know, I had a problem coding the DRL with stripes on obd11. It caused an error with the rear fog lamps, so I reverted it to original. well, had a phone call from my Skoda dealership today, it seems that the car had contacted the dealership to notify them of an amber error code.Lol tokd them it was all five (which it us now) so, 2021MY and I’m sure previous models call home if you abuse them lol 😂

So come on and answer the question we all want to know, how did the 280 get sold and does the new owner (dealer or private) know the full history since your ownership??? And was it ever properly fixed before being disposed of or is that someone else’s timebomb now?

Thanks mate that does help

The sensor is not hard wired, it is a separate part. The wiring loom for each abs sensor can be replaced, and can be bought as a spare part from Skoda

"exclusively available from eurocarparts" https://pagid.com/ Sounds like price-fixing/anti-competitive behaviour.

The number plate makes it look like it's got a nose ring...

Good point!

Aerodynamically far better on the back.

I had this problem on my 2016 model from delivery - I bought it at 3 yrs old (the car, not me!) Had several trips back to the main Skoda dealer who carried out the mandatory battery load test and carried out a full diagnosis before proclaiming everything OK. Then I had a very interesting conversation with the service receptionist who knew about things other than word processers. Her partner was a tech for a BMW dealer and they have the same problem. But it's limited to PETROL engines. Her car was a petrol BMW Mini and she had had the same problem several times. She said that partner had told her that it was a known problem across makes in the industry but NOT with diesel engines. And it also seems that no one quite knows the reason why (petrolgate?). I can cofirm the lack of problems with diesels as I drove various makes over long distances as a field service engineer. Never once did a diesel fail to carry out its stop/start regardless of season, load etc. From discussions with technicians all loads like lights, aircon, wipers, entertainment and so on are part of a complex programme that give different results on different days. Who remembers when an 'on' button turned something on? Finally, I have noticed than when the dealer has performed a service and reset the sevice indicator or checked codes the S/S works perfectly for a couple of days. Not sure if this answers any of your questions, but it should provide some fuel for thought. Just remember, the ignition key works fine.

Absolutely agree with you buddy. I want to go for 2x80mm straight cut tailpipes. Would love to get system from within UK but even Milltek said they don't offer anything cat back for superb however their downpipes would fit superb. Have you got any videos of your Octavia with milltek system?

Hi, After Rusteele posted pics re how he’d adapted floor height everything changed for me. I copied his pics and this helped me keep the Yeti which I love. The whole changing foot pedals somehow became so much easier despite their being a bigger height differential than I’ve ever encountered.

I think Marky was referring to the gearbox limiting torque, not drivetrain losses from crank to wheels which is also true, but a different thing. Yes the gearbox has torque limiters in place to prevent too much torque getting through. This is one of the reasons you tune the DSG to raise those limiters as especially for stage 2 it can be that you are not seeing what the engine is making if hitting the limit especially in low rpm. However, with a tuning box, the gearbox never actually "sees" any extra torque as the ECU is tricked into thinking it's working within the OEM parameters.

Thanks for that. So far the camera I am looking at is this one Direct Fit Boot Handle Rear View Reversing Reverse Camera For Skoda Octavia Mk3 | eBay Hopefully someone can steer me clear if its wrong!

@shyVRS245 is there a moosetest vid of a regular FWD superb to compare to the IV? That would be the telling evidence. Good job on the 994 miles. Only 6 more to the magic 1k! I managed 612 last tank with 60 odd remaining. Not a fair comparison though due to the smaller tank and additional EV miles.

Retrofits are straightforward and readily available on these cars too. If you want a reverse camera they can be fitted. I have bought mine knowing it’s not got the spec I want but I’ll enjoy bringing it up to scratch lol

Thanks for that. Very helpful and makes me think if sportline springs would fit... Your final point is very important. It's actually the motorway where I feel the car is unstable. Not uncomfortable just not as stable as my old car. Could be the weight. Dunno. I'll start with the simple stuff. Maybe a RARB as many others have done will help. It's surprisingly good in the corners just after that little bit extra sharpness and positivity.

My Skoda agent quoted £280 for the cambelt change, but that doesn't include parts and VAT. But I doubt that is going to be £500. My 2016 1.2 Tsi has only done 12,000 miles, so I declined having the work done. The manufacturer of the cambelt states 10 years, 120,000 miles for the life of the belt, but I've no idea if the cam belt tensioners get knackered. I'll think about changing mine at 7 years or 50k, depending on which comes first. My mileage is especially low because I bought it at 2 years old with less than 6k on the clock because the first owner had died and the disposal was held up by executors. Then, of course, Covid came along. We're retired, so don't use it for commuting and with holidays off the horizon, it was hardly used since February 2020. The only extra servicing I've had done is the DSG oil change and that was done by an independent DSG expert company (£90).

Good luck with the new motor TBS - don't break it

the dq250 box is supposed to be good for 400nm, but many people have gone beyond this and it's been ok When i had my ecu stage one high torque map done, i never bothered with a dsg tune and i didn't encounter any problems either.

Got an extra 6kW with these badges. 1kW each badge, doubled cause both sides!!!

Quick interior shot for those interested, this’ll change with a VC in time. Legit can’t wait! Gunna be a long fortnight.

Nice to see the love being felt for the quirky Roomster after so long. Skoda certainly knew how to build cars back in the early 2000s. I had a 2010 Fabia Estate TDi for 50000 miles and it’s still going strong according to the MOT checker at around 120K. Now got a Octavia III that is proving extremely reliable. Reading the Octavia IV forum, there isn’t much incentive to get a IV, although I probably will eventually! But in in the meantime, I feel that older cars like the Roomster have the upper hand in terms of reliability due to the lack of tech. Incidentally Skoda only has 5 Roomsters for sale nationally in their dealer network!

I always buy near new cars, in the other word, demo cars. I got my fully loaded 206 sportline (top-trim in Australia) with one year old and 7000kms on the clock. It cost me 38k AUD. A new one with all the options cost more than 60k AUD (60k for the car plus 1700 sunroof and 1100 velvet red paint). My car came with 4 years remaining factory warranty, and two years national wide free service as well. If the car runs perfectly after it run out the warranty period, I might keep it for another few years. If not, I might simply rip it off and buy another demo car.

An alternative is a wedge cushion. These fill in the dip towards the back of the seat. They also come is a variety of sizes and materials but might help level out the seat cushion to the bolsters. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SQ1GYH9/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_CT1X4WDEKQ5PQ50KA4SV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075DRS4C9/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_2TZ8F7E82F1HC5NZMBSV

Buy nearly new definitely, you will save a fortune. Look for a pre reg demo car with a few hundred miles on. They will be a good few thousand cheaper than brand new and as an added bonus if you look about a bit a lot of them are stacked with optional extras all ready fitted. I looked at a 70 Plate SEL last week with less than 500 miles on it. It was £7k cheaper than the new list price and also had nearly £4K worth of optional extras fitted to it.

Get your mechanic to check the belt condition at the next service. It's doubtful it will need replaced. My wife had a 2003 Renault Scenic which was a 5 year/80k change interval. Her car had only done 7k by the time it was 5 years old so we deferred it until it was ten years old and had done 30k.

Cool, then yes, "Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt" should be find for both channels

About all you could do would be to low pressure supercharge it. a) On a 2004 car that's worth hundreds, that could cost thousands though. b) You then have a more modified car making it more difficult to insure. c) I very much doubt that a kit is available to bolt on. Would need at the very least fuelling and timing changes to avoid blowing up the engine. That probably means a custom map. d) There's every chance that you'd still blow up the gearbox. Pragmatic answer would be to buy a Mk2 or Mk3 with a DSG gearbox.

Which you can hide with an engine cover, available on a popular online supplier starting with E (genuine Chinese-source OEM)

Hi Everyone, Came across the post and was lucky enough to find a very cheap start stop button on ebay (£5 delivered) so thought I would give it a try. Nothing was wrong with my original button and the reason I did the swap, was to see what a different button would look like and I thought I would share my findings. Thanks again to TasMan for his detailed write up which made the decision to attempt the swap much easier. The part I used was:- A Genuine Audi A4 8K B8 S-LINE Start & Stop Keyless Comfort Switch 8K0905217 which came with the silver cap. I also purchased the red and silver cap from Ali Express, although you can purchase them from ebay for similar prices. I have the black and red trim so thought I would see what the red and silver button looked like, you'll also notice the replaced button lights up in red and not the traditional green. Here are the pictures:- The only difference I've noticed so far, when depressing the button, you have a click which you didn't from my original. Again any mods are carried out at the owners risks.

Yep, it's a simple as that with solid discs, you might well have to remove the carrier if you have vented discs. The only trouble I had was that one of the discs took some persuading to come off the hub, turned a 20 minute job into 30 while penetrating oil did its job,

New wheels and tyres: Fake exhaust and chrome strip also vinyl wrapped to match the rest of rear bumper:

Coming up to 8 years from new. Only done 41k but I still have the thrill as when I bought it new. Paint is still good and the only bulb replaced was for the number plate which was an easy fix. I get the pestering texts and emails from my local dealer to attend launches and special offers for latest models. Why change a good one? Drove through six EU countries in 2019, four up with luggage without a whimper or missed beat. Know the devil you know.

Hello. I'm new here. And I'd like to know if anyone can help me with me is doing fitting the red lights on the back doors to a Skoda Superb 3 facelift from 2020. I didn't draw the wires just has the cat's eye on the doors. I don't know where the wires should be drawn from and if I need to activate something with vcds. Thanks

Have attached two photos, had to compress them but they still look OK. One shows the offcuts in place, the removable mat fits over the top so the extra isn't visible when it's in place. The other one is an angled shot showing the four pieces I eventually used. Experimented with different numbers of carpet to find the best height for me and glued them together so they wouldn't slide apart. You can see that only the lowest piece covers the whole of the area under the mat so the mat will still click into place. I did this to minimise the carpet pieces moving sideways, and so far so good. .

I think that maybe you are lucky that your Skoda dealership is handing out this warning, okay it will mainly be to generate revenue for the workshop, but on the other hand, years ago, when cambelts were a newish thing, a neighbour who admitted to knowing nothing about cars - and his local Ford agent knew this, bought a Ford Escort 1.3L with the CVH new from that local Ford agent and always used them for servicing, during maybe year 5 the cambelt or bits "went" and trashed the engine, when he went into that Ford agent to arrange for repairs, all he got was "yes that can happen, it should have been replaced at 4 years" - that was the last car he ever bought from that friendly local small Ford agent, I reckon that they had let him down very badly, similar advice to what you got given should have been handed out to him at the correct time.

Rang the local Exeter garage and was told that it is not possible to alter the height of the brake pedal. It was the receptionist, not one of the mechanics, but I got the impression it's been asked before. I solved the problem by cutting up some left over carpet offcuts to fit EXACTLY under the driver's mat (the optional extra, not the main one!). Needs to be a precision cut to make sure it doesn't slide about. Needed three layers to raise the level about an inch (2.54cm) but it has worked well and driving is now so much more comfortable. Thought anyone having the same problem might find this idea helpful.