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So, this little sh1te remerged today...warning came on 'faulty handbrake'. The electric switch for the handbrake was stuck in an upright position so I could see a tiny piece of the card and after a bit of wrestling I got it out! Lucky tbh!

So the time has come to move my beloved Octy on and I’m super pumped to say that I’ve paid my deposit on this lovely lean green machine 💚 It’s a 2019 Superb SportLine Plus 2.0 TDI 150 DSG with the following options Variable Boot Floor Folding tow bar Exclusive Dragon Green paint That’s all it has for now but there’s a laundry list of retrofits to get through on it in time. It’s having a service and DSG oil change currently along with a full prep this week for collection in early March. I legit can’t wait to finally be a Superb owner!!!!

Fitted my Whiteline rear ARB yesterday along with new drop links and all new fittings. Took measurements on both sides to ensure everything was parallel and centred. Took the car out to make sure it felt OK and you can definitely feel the difference. Glad I bought new drop links as getting one of the old ones off would have been impossible without breaking it.

And re-program your cruise control so you are 2mm away from the car in front..

From 1st March PlayStation are starting their stay at home free game again. They will have a new one each month for I think 4 months. In March the 2016 version of Ratchet and Clank is free even without PlayStation plus. Just incase anyone’s interested.

No that had been replaced about a year earlier. On Petrol engines like the 1.4 TSI the water pump is at the other end of the engine so the Skoda Main Dealer did not replace it when the timing belt was done. So over the course of 2 years I'm nearly a £1,000 out of pocket for work that should have been engineered out of the engine design. I can't help feeling if I had bought a Japanese or Korean car (or most other cars) I would not have needed to spend this extra money. It's bad enough that all VW engined cars need new timing belts at great expense every 5 years, but then have to fork out a similar amnount for a new water pump is crazy, Certainly will make me think twice about getting another Skoda/VW car.

assuming the 1.6 is no different to the 2.0 Tdi then its the connection between the flexible pipe leading to the clutch housing and the plastic tube of the concentric release bearing. Its adjacent to the gear linkage under the air filter housing and has a white knurled knob and vertical bleed nipple. If you remove the U duct between the inlet water snorkel (unclip the lid first) and the air filter housing you will probably see it, if not then remove the filter housing and all will be revealed. I have spent far too much time in that area over the last few weeks for similar as yet undiagnosed and probably unrelated problems, in the course of which I have learned all about its operation and the IMO dubious reasons for its existence. Basically you can declutch as fast as you can push the pedal to the floor the shuttle valve offers no resistance but when engaging the clutch it will only return at its own speed even if you sidestep the clutch, there is a tiny metered hole allowing the fluid to return and the master cylinder only has one seal and does not draw fresh fluid from a partial vacuum on the upstroke like a traditional one. I drilled mine out thinking that it was causing my problems and found that the throttle pick up between gearchanges was much faster with virtually no delay for the turbo spooling up, it was not the problem so I have refitted a standard unmodified one to avoid other possible problems. At the very least you should pressure bleed your system from this valve, if the fluid comes out black then you will have a failing master cylinder like I did, any of these particles could restrict the metered hole, indeed there is a high powered magnet on the end of the master cylinder piston which was covered in rubber like remains of my seal which must have had metallic composants in the mix. The clutch master cylinder on RHD models gets very hot from the DPF.

Interesting (Snow) moon this evening

I think they completely stopped applying them anywhere a couple of years back.

Dental Floss as in used for flossing teeth. Or Fishing Line. Strong Nylon thread etc etc Pour boiling water on the badge area first, or a heat gun low or a hair dryer high. The paint does look like it might have been painted before. Maybe the badge was replaced before so not stuck on as it was at the factory.

Firstly you don't use a screwdriver. If you heat it up and use something similar to dental floss then you can 'saw' it off easily.

inner connector inner pins outer connector outer pins 8W0971636 000979009E or N90764701 1K8972928 AMP MCP 1.5K Female Crimp Terminal Contact 1241381-3 so I've figured out these are the correct connectors and pins you'll need on the 'lights' end of the harness. I need help figuring out the connectors on the 'car' side If anyone knows the part number for the female plug in this picture, please help! I know it's the female version of 1j0972928 / 1J0972926, because the male plug on the existing car harness has that stamped on it.

If you were of my generation you would never jack a car on the sills unless there was absolutely no other option, the sickening crunch and shower of flakey crusty oxidised crud that was once called metal remains with you for life. Every VAG car I have owned has already had the sill bottoms destroyed by trolley jacks with the seams split, rolled over & rusting before I got my hands on it, even a slotted rubber puck does not protect unless it has been machined with a stepped surface. But there is no real choice for the jack if you want to also use an axle stand.

Depends how much pressure the SMMT and car manufacturers put on the UK Government.

Completely agree with this; it's the one thing that's badly wrong with the Yeti's Stop/Start system IMO. (I don't have any complaints about Stop/Start otherwise.) I don't understand why it's like that: you can't accidentally put the 'box in Drive* without putting your foot back on the brake pedal, so you're not going to shoot off in an uncontrolled fashion if you just release the handbrake and press the accelerator. Plenty of other cars with Stop/Start systems are quite happy to sit in neutral with the handbrake engaged and the engine temporarily stopped (I've even been told on other forums that I don't understand how to drive my own car because their car behaves the logical way whereas my Yeti uncontrovertibly doesn't - which is bl00dy annoying!) I'm pretty sure that the Golf I rented in Italy a few years back kept the engine stopped when in N with the handbrake on, so why does another recent VAG model not do it? I wonder whether it's a software thing that could be changed using VCDS? As it is, I have got in to the habit of putting the selector lever all the way to P if the engine stops and it's obvious that I'm going to be at a standstill for more than a few seconds - but still with the handbrake on because I'm not keen on relying on the locking mechanism in the 'box to keep me stationary, especially on a slope. (Doubtless someone is now going to tell me that this is not a good habit after all...) * My comments are all based on my DSG-equipped Yeti, but AFAICS it would be the same for a manual: you'd have to depress the clutch to engage a gear so you can't slip out of neutral without the car knowing about it.

I'm fairly sure all of those ones on that link are equivalent and all correct for your car. 7zap.com will tell you the relevant part number by navigating through to the correct diagram, but not by VIN input.

...but the sill jacking point is designed for that purpose. tom

Can mild hybrid count as EV's? I personally don't think so. 100% of its energy still comes from fossil fuel. It's one of the additional tools (like force induction turbo) to make ICE slightly more efficient. It just happens to feature a tiny electric powertrain.

Awesome. Enjoy the motor

@lol-lolI got a reply to my comment on the range in the review. It says, "Might be worth contacting the WLTP test team then. Our tests are done with real-world usage, in all types of roads-all cars undergo-the-same-testing methodology,too." Maybe they actually put people and luggage in cars and try them in all weather on all road types then managing in the time to get around the country and find freezing conditions in the summer and scorchio conditions in winter.

Work the switch from hot to cold and back again a few times, the flap can get stuck.

The motor inside the door lock sounds like it is not working. Try hitting the open button on the fob just as you physically simultaneously start to unlock drivers door with the key. That may give the motor a 'nudge' via the gears and possibly make it spin up.

Yes, please get the video back, I opened up my flaps this week too and am curious to compare how yours sounds

That car really looks very well in that color with the vRS bits on..... At least you have brought her back from the jaws of the crusher You are a good bit of teh way there now !

I posted on his Vid comments. That is 130-140 miles at motorway speeds maybe getting no regen. If you did get 5 adults in and stuff in the boot that might be what you get on 60 mph roads when you get regen. No way an Adult with legs will fit behind a 5ft 10" or more driver. No way 2 Child Seats and a booster seat will go in the rear. He fails to say that ECO is 80ps or so and Normal 110 ps. and your car with more than a driver will steam up in ECO. Currently around town in temps between freezing and under 10*oC i can get 150 miles plus. At around freezing or below 2 up it is a stretch to get 110 miles on 70 mph limit roads. ECO is not the best to get range, Sport can be and get regen. The steering gets very heavy in town in ECO or Normal & in B. Better to go in Sport and then just use the shifter in B to slow down as though dropping a gear, or leave in B in stop start traffic and then out of B to get a move on, you still get regen as you coast to stops. A MG EV is a nice drive. Not a patch on the e-Corsa / e-208 on back roads with the tyres changed from the crap Michelin Primacy 4. As to 0-62, the not ECO tyres fitted give a good 0-62, or Traction control off, or better is 2mph -62 mph. or 2-70 mph. Roll it an boot it, because there is 260 Nm of torque.

Only 130 to 140 mile range he was getting ! He did not say this was winter affected which viewers would have expect him to say. Mediocre review. I am still leaning towards the MG5 estate myself. Wonder if it can really do 115 mph.....

I have a question for you, what went wrong with your engine when only one valve got bent?

Ended up getting an aux transmitter seems to work fine. Just back to your comment about the 12V always being on DieselMonte, is there a way to make it so this is not the case. Insurance want me to fit a tracking thing through the 12V and leave it in there, surely this will just drain my battery?

Thanks. The start/stop function has been working, and I have never had issues starting the car, but a battery voltage with no load at 12.1 V seems quite low. Would be interesting if I took a long drive before it was charged to see what it got charged to. I know that to do a proper capacity test you need a load (I’m an electrician), but it’s not so much the current health of the battery that I wondered about. It was more about what to expect from the charging it gets from the car and if a top-up now and then is advisable, even if driving pattern and temperature would suggest it wasn’t necessary. With the recent weather and use of the car, I can understand the need for a top-up. I had a charger that I used on my old car a few times, but not sure if it’s still around. I don’t have easy access to a socket to charge from (3rd floor in an apartment block), so I figured it was just as easy to let them charge when I delivered it for a wash. I might get a charger, at least if we buy a house. I haven’t been able to find the battery SoC or voltage in the menus. I got the digital instrument panel (really happy I added it). Love the webasto. Especially since we can’t use a Defa or something similar. I don’t mind a cold car that much, the seat and steering wheel heating is quite effective, but it’s great for hauling kids that they don’t need thick jackets or layers of clothes that compromise safety. The best is getting an ice free car in winter. I also got the heated windshield, so it doesn’t take too long to de-ice from a frozen state, but a pre-heated, ice free car is great.

Well, it's been a while but today was the day...

how are the shocks and springs? if they or even one of them are getting tired there could be a whole lot more "boat like" sway going on to induce vertigo related motion sickness.

Halfords fitted correct new battery £184 fitted and coded, I was expecting a £25fitting charge, result! Thanks for all input👍

Fitted mine today - more of an ordeal than I thought, but in for a penny.... Rear Seat out - Not to bad really. Trim removed or lifted enough to get the new cable in. First thing I tackled was the wiring to the BCM as I though no point running in cable etc and then not be able to wire it in for some reason, so I tackled the wiring first. It is tricky. You'd want some experience of working with electrical connections in a car, harness's etc. as it isn't explained in great detail in the instructions so a certain amount of know how is presumed I guess. BCM located on passenger side. Remove the trim in the left foot panel (1st Pic) but dont attempt to unplug the Connection C from the BCM from here. Instead remove the cover on the door side of the dash - (Pic 2) Now you need to disconnect the connection nearest too you, that will be Connection C - (Pic 3) Dangle it down into the footwell - (you can see it in Pic 1) Now you need to slide the connectors out of their harness (Pic 4) Here you can see the Harness on the floor and the connections in white. Next remove the two wires as described in the directions using a Terminal Wire Remover (Pic 5) The first wire was OK, the second wire was smaller and a bit more difficult to work free. I removed one wire first and then inserted it into the new connector provided before removing the second wire, that way I was minimising the chances of them touching when out. That was pretty much it when it came to wiring - So you'd need a little bit of know how about unplugging connections. I know this sounds simple, you just unplug them right? Well yes and no. They will be held in by a locking tab, so you need to release that first. In this case just pull back on the white tab in Pic 3 and it will also slide the plug out at the same time. Make sure to click this up fully when plugging back in. If this is unfamiliar to you this job might be a bit much. Also I wouldn't attempt unless you have Terminal Wire Removal tool - they are cheap as anything but you may need to order online somewhere. Everything else is a matter of removing trim and running cable. No big deal. And then placing and sticking the actual sills. Again not really any drama.

It works with Apple Carplay as well. I have the standard navigation on Amundsen with wireless Apple Carplay / Android auto and if I set route on my Apple Maps then the VC shows the direction arrows and displays its map. I have no idea if this would have worked if I didn't have the ordinary Skoda navigation. MIB 3 seems like a decent system that integrates well with Carplay - it also plays Spotify right away when I start the engine through Carplay without me having to connect cables or press any buttons. Very impressive.

A tip re using trolley jacks. Buy a rubber ice hockey puck and cut a slot in it to go over the sill seam jacking point. I had to also do some cut outs on the underside so it fitted the cup on the jack. Works a treat. tom

Perhaps time to change publication? Mass media feeds on headlines. The more shock value it's got the better. The headlines are designed to provoke emotion from potential readers so people read it. Mass media isn't interested in informing the public on through unbiased wording, they are only interested in selling paper/ads based on click counts. Here are a few better sources of publication, although these doesn't directly address your concerns with cost: https://ec.europa.eu/jrc/en/publication/eur-scientific-and-technical-research-reports/effect-fuel-ethanol-content-exhaust-emissions-flexible-fuel-vehicle https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1364032104000784 But they do show a clear benefit to greenhouse emissions, which is important to all of us and should be a major factor in one's decisions for their energy consumption.

The economy drop is going to be marginal at best and is one of the elements of the E10 rollout that I see the most misinformation spread. Consider that ethanol is generally regarded to be about a third less energy dense than petrol and we're adding just a further 5% of this to the overall blend, the total energy loss in the fuel is going to struggle to reach even 2% - this is absolutely not going to result in a 'significant' decrease in your economy. Even combined with any supposed loss in combustion efficiency, I genuinely doubt most people would have even noticed the difference if they'd simply silently rolled it out. The only reason they couldn't do a silent rollout (like they did moving to E5 from E0 originally) is because E10 has enough bioethanol to present material degradation issues in older vehicles and so there's no choice but to inform people of the change, before they start ruining old cars unknowingly. Will it be more expensive to buy? It shouldn't be, maybe it will be, again though if they weren't told I don't think people would notice - whichever direction it moves is going to be miniscule and petrol prices are usually up and down more than the proverbial lady of the night's knickers anyway.

It’s much easier to use donor seats with heaters already in, then wiring loom from Kufatec (reversed from the instructions as they are for LHD) and climate panel with seat heat buttons and code.

Welcome @Katarsisto Briskoda. Nice car to start your Skoda journey with. Usually a custom map gives around an extra 40bhp on a modern turbo diesel and that is the route to go down having done it many times myself. My last stage 1 map on a diesel saw it climb from 147bhp to 186bhp and torque go from 246 to 317lb/ft on a 2013 Octavia 150PS model. Your 190PS engine should make about 227bhp or 230PS and over 500nm of torque.

The OP should act as a warning to many, just as a TPMS warning should. Getting a warning of loss of pressure from when the pressures were set and the TPMS was reset and having to reinflate tyres and reset the TPMS means the simple system is working and the vehicles operator thinks slow punctures is no biggy. Well slow punctures can be in the tread or the sidewall or the bead or even the valve and should obviously not be ignored, as doing so is just not 'simply clever'.

Yeah it's not that great Allan, but at least you've been looking at your own tyres, and keeping an eye on them before this happened, which heartens me greatly because I dare say 90% of the driving population doesn't ever bother to do so! I suppose the least you could say is it is better than having nothing. Although with regard to your comment about being on a motorway, doesn't necessarily mean it would be a horrendous problem. Back in around 2003, I was driving my Volvo S40 in lane two of a dual carriageway at 70mph plus a bit (!) when I had a catastrophic failure of the nearside rear. The tyre blew and de-laminated with such ferocity, it tore a huge hole in the side of the plastic rear bumper. Despite this, and a loud bang, the car remained in control and I was able to bring it safely to the side with no dramas. It was a fairly new Pirelli, and the post-mortem did not reveal the cause. I can only assume I was unlucky enough to run over something like a sharp piece of angle-iron or something. Anyway sorry to hear of your drama, I hope you're feeling more relaxed about it now. Sounds like an occasion for beer o'clock! Cheers and stay safe mucker.

There is a clutch position sender - for both the stop/start as well as making sure you don't start it in gear. I would imagine that it only "engages" at the bottom of the pedal travel (to ensure pedal is fully depressed), and my click happens much nearer the top of the travel. It's a good idea though, and I'll see if I can have a look next time it plays up. If the "Depress clutch to start" type message disappears just after the "click" then that would be some evidence that this sender is involved.

New wheels and tyres: Fake exhaust and chrome strip also vinyl wrapped to match the rest of rear bumper:

Briskoda - come with or for a skoda, stay for the banter....

Wow, what a change that is! I do see the logic to it though. I have always found what i need here on Briskoda so wont close my account, particularly as there is still a MKii Octy in the family but also just for the general helpful advice and giggles! I Will check out the MBClub, see what its like, thanks!

After a bit of hoop jumping (and help from here) the virtual cockpit retrofit is done and all working. RS theme on the VC and Android Auto Performance Monitor ties together nicely

Fitted and all working! Thank you guys for your help on this. Saved myself £300 from going to the stealers

So I fitted my switch this weekend and it was unbelievably easy. It took me about 20 minutes once I figured out how to get the gear shrouding off. I'll upload a picture shortly in case it helps other Octavia VRS owners. Thanks for the info in this thread. I saved myself £300+ Shame on Skoda for not making this a recall and even worse, going for the more expensive gearbox repair option when an official part can be fitted so easily.

Go back to pages 13 14 15 that kind of area, read the description, 5Q0-713-128-A is the part you need to fix the problem for about £50 and it's pretty straight forward to fix with this part although you may need to get the error code cleared as well. It's pretty disgusting that this issue isn't a recall on all the VAG models that are blighted with the fault, this will only get bigger and bigger as cars get older I suspect, this is where a brilliant forum such as this comes in handy, I am no expert in these things but I read through the whole thread to the point where the part number and the photos showing the fix are, ordered the part and hey presto problem solved and posted up my thanks to the original member that came up with the solution. It would seem that the dealers are able to take advantage of a lot of people because they either don't have the time, or know how to search to a fix to this problem, best of luck to you all and thanks to everybody that takes the time to post these helpful fixes for our cars. Part number 5Q0-713-128-A you can get it from the dealer or auto factors.