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My new car..

Picked up my new Superb from the dealer today. Absolutely love it!

OK. Maybe my hearing needs checking. I am a volunteer first responder and the defib in my boot was beeping to let me know there is problem with it.

A few from this evening's walk........

Some posts moved here from the Register.

They arrived a few days ago, and they're very cute: Gaz

I think @Gax does not mean a Drug Dealer but a Skoda or other main Dealership to have a Trained & Qualified Tech to do work. Many do the 2nd one but find out they are better going to someone that does know what they are doing.

We are here on the Ocatavia mk4 forum, the battery will be disconnected on this vehicle, So my personal advise on the mk4 is that it is safer and way easier to remove the positive terminal. I can send you a picture if you like to see what I mean, I have 10 of them in front of me. And I can easily show you how it is more dangerous to hit the positive terminal while undoing the negative, call it bad design or unfortunate bolt placement. It is something they have thought the kids in school to always first disconnect the negative, I get that. But I never did follow those 'basic rules', I can think und judge for myself what is safer to do when I have to disconnect a battery.

4x4 doesn’t make any car better off road or on snow and ice, it’s all down to tyres. You may find a 2WD car with the proper tyres will meet all your requirements.

part of my ascent track. more of the ascent how smooth... just lovely . descent to the woodland (cant see it in the mist..) cant see the piinty rocks sticking out of the ground ... most of the foresty trails are like this but the vehicle tracks are like this.. its a fairly mixed bag tbf...

Word of caution if doing the positive terminal - Do not let the wrench touch any exposed metal on the car at the same time as the terminal. In general, the negative terminal and the car's metalwork are at the same potential and this will give you a very short low impedance path. This is why I'd say it's best to use the negative terminal.

It certainly caused confusion when I bought my father in laws civic off him, brought it to the mainland and tried to MOT it... It was on a mainland plate but had been 'exported' and registered in NI so there were no DVLA records for it... the garage thought it was stolen...

Thought I'd share this here, in case of any interest! My 73 year old Grandad's trusty old B5.5 Passat finally rotted away last year, so he wanted something else. He wanted a Nissan Juke but I wouldn't let him, so he got a 2012 Yeti Elegance, its a 2.0 TDi 140. I tried my best to encourage him towards a DSG but he wouldn't have it. Because he's a perpetual fettler, even though it was top spec he couldn't just leave it as was... First job was a wheel refurb, they were silver previously and started going flaky. In they went, and came back a nice shiny black. He decided red wheel bolt trims would look good, this turned out to be the tip of an iceberg... Next thing, it's into the body shop due to this new black and red theme. Out it comes with a red grille and mirror caps. We've also now got 3D number plates, metal sill protectors, standard issue old-man steering wheel cover and matching mats. I haven't any photos of it but there's also red and black themed Skoda badges front and back... I'm hoping it'll last as long as he wants to keep on driving now, there's some rumours the roof will get painted red next, now he's fully retired I'm sure he'll get bored enough to go through with it soon...

Whoa, yeah very. An original 20v is worth more than mine, but it makes the amount I’ve spent feel less painful :)

How about if the car had the rear DRL's on by default? Wouldn't that cause the trailer to also light up? I'm not too sure that having trailer lights on without the car's lights would be a good idea.

The tracking was out, they adjusted it, it should be fixed now.

Coolant wise I believe it's the pink stuff...VAG G13

Very interesting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-eCCGH-i4g This video explain the MPI since 9'

Sounds like it's fully functional apart from the 'vibration/resistance' through the steering wheel. If Skoda UK say your car should do that, then the dealers that did the new camera install have got it wrong somewhere. Hopefully it may be something really simple like tha multi-pin connector for the wiring harness on the camera needs 'wiggling'. I had a Vectra that started running roughly - company car and dealers replaced just about every engine sensor going 'cos that's what the plug in diagnostic told them to do' but to no avail. It went in for its last service just before I got a new company car and I said it was still running 'rough'. When I collected it the lady mechanic came out to see me and advised that they couldn't find a fault. However she had undone and re-connected all the engine management sensors in case that cured it. Blow me, the drive home was like having a new car again! Shame it went back to fleet auction a week or two later. Regrettably most dealers workshops are driven by plug in diagnostics and thus simple things like iffy connections are not considered - besides they can bill more to replace what they believe is a faulty sensor, rather than actually think for themselves and try a more appropriate solution.

Just an update to everything... Tried the battery disconnection (won't say which terminal I did to avoid anything kicking off 😃) No difference. Got batted around from original Liverpool Skoda, to London Skoda, to lease company and back to London Skoda. Went in after work. Lovely lady was trying to tell me that I didn't have smartlink because I didn't pay for it and it was an optional extra. So I asked her if Sat nav not working was because it was an optional extra, which piqued her curiosity from the understandable this man's an idiot mindset. Called a colleague over and they went through the history. It shows all the software fixes are up-to-date but they reckon they've forgotten to put load back all the extras e.g. the map download, the smartlink feature, the ACC cruise control, mode select - the latter three being model specific. Booked in for the following week. Will update when that's been and gone

UPDATE I cleaned egr vavle, egr pipe and throttle body with carb cleaner left it over night put it all back together today and its working perfectly now took it for a drive for 20 mins no problems at all hope it stays running Thanks for all your help Plus where the egr connects to mainfold i shoved a screw drive up there cleaned that out aswell

UPDATE I cleaned egr vavle, egr pipe and throttle body with carb cleaner left it over night put it all back together today and its working perfectly now took it for a drive for 20 mins no problems at all hope it stays running Thanks for all your help

All I can say is, it is not usual to have any additional wiring installed for options that aren’t fitted on Skoda and indeed any of the VAG range.

Correct. Roomsters and Rapids should be the same too.

Cheers George - I'm a more recent convert to cycling shorts. I'm very self conscious of my disability, my right calf being some 3" less in circumference than my left. But a couple of years ago I thought F'k it, bought some, and haven't looked back. I've a risk of dislocation of my new hip joint, so getting back in the saddle has been with care and a fair bit of trepidation as I don't want to have to land heavily on my right side, so I've been doing shorter rides. This morning was only going to be about five miles, and I was in jeans. But it was so nice to be out I just kept going. Serves me right, but it'll be shorts from now on. Gaz

I went out with a mate who'd obviously put his padded shorts on in a rush, thing was the insert was bright red so he looked like a baboon! Padded shorts should go next to skin to stop chance of chaffing, might not apply for your need, and indeed feels a bit wrong 'just wearing knickers' as my wife says.

@Gaz for about 5 years now i have been wearing my Padded Cycle Pants over my pants even when not cycling as they make my artificial leg much more comfortable and help the suction. I have 3 pairs of a more brief size & tight and 3 pairs that are a bit baggy. All are getting a bit thread bare and ready for replacement. Like these, but they were £8 a pair when i bought them, and they have been worth every penny. (The padding is on the inside as i wear them, not on the outside.) EDIT, Found the same as i have @ £7.99 and ordered more.

Made a few purchases from Kopacek, roll on some nice weather so I can clean both inside and out.

Hello and welcome to the club!

Well @SashaGrace to the rescue. Turns out I’d made a mistake in the wiring. the directional lines work, however the distance indicators, well, look a bit short to be useful. But not really too worries since the distance indicators from the sensors are displayed on screen too. now to figure out what’s next. wireless CarPlay and Charging? wheel refurb decisions, decisions

Looks like a 12v pulse when you press the button, at least based on the diagram here: Their wiring seems to match the switch you got too

Would be the same part on all mk2 fabias anyway. Probably is the same on most VW products of that time but It wont be hard to find a fabia in a scrapyard, pretty common car afterall.

A quick look for a 2012 mk2 shows me that TSC/ESP button Pin 1 - Unused Pin 2 - Unused Pin 3 - Grey w/ Blue trace - Illumination +ve Pin 4 - Black w/ Grey trace - +ve from fuse SC2 5a (fuse number 2 in the side of dash fuse box) Pin 5 - Black - Direct to ABS Unit - Pin 39 in the 47 pin connector Pin 6 - Brown - Earth TPMS Button Pin 1 - Unused Pin 2 - Unused Pin 3 - Grey W/ Blue trace - Illumination +ve Pin 4 - Black w/ Grey trace - +ve from fuse SC2 5a (fuse number 2 in the side of dash fuse box) Pin 5 - Purple w/ grey trace - to ABS unit pin 35 in the 47 pin connector Pin 6 - Brown - Earth

looks awesome, hope you've got showers at work if this is mostly your cycling then 100% a hard tail personally i'd be going for a i30 rim with 2.4-2.5 tyre

Not in a million years lol! My V8 is virtually stock and 300kws at the fly wheel, would smoke the RS and could fit a small family in the boot and honestly I’ll miss it, but then again I’ve never bought a base model car, so I’ve always missed them ones I’ve sold! However it’s no longer practical for my situation and what I want to do and it’s getting on so it’s time to move it on. End of an era if I could keep it I would! I keep some cool points with the RS at least!

redcurrant jelly!

okay, so yesterday was a tough but nice 17km route. weather was alright, and i had it in just over an hour. eagle eyed trackers will notice a small change in approach route - the first off road shortcut i have been using is getting really overgrown now, and the Jap Knotweed is encroaching on the barely 2 ft wide trail, so rather than risk bringing that crap home on my tyres, i went around to the "main" side approach. I also had my chest strap on, so was able to see how thing are while on this trek. it hit a max of 198, ironically while cycling the flat section on the way to the first climb. then it dropped off to a consistent 160-170 the whole way up the ascents. it dropped down to around 150 on the road section to get home at the end. pic taken about a min after i got home pleased with that. oh the sheep asked me to say "mmmbbbbbbbaaaaaaaaaa" to everyone for them.

We don't get such a message flash up. You say that lane assist has its box ticked on the infotainment screen, but is it also ticked in the maxidot display as well? I think I read somewhere that there was a software glitch that caused a system to not work right and an indicator was differing status indications between infotainment and maxidot. Anyway glad you are getting it to another dealer so that hopefully they can confirm that you are not getting the steering wheel resistance/vibration and, more importantly, fix it!

That'll probably be your problem. You have an external amplifier and this tweak is only suitable for the internal amp. When you change from Sound_system_ External_ Most to Sound_system_INDIVIDUAL, you'll be turning off the optical feed to the amp which is why you have no sound Change it back to Sound_system_ External_ Most, clear any error codes and you should be fine again.

I installed front and rear Blackvue dashcams into my 2020 Superb iV. The front camera is mounted just to the left of the interior mirror/camera/sensor 'pod' and the rear camera to the righthand side of the high-level brake light. The wiring runs down the left hand A pillar, under the left hand door sill interior covers then up to the left hand C pillar, though the rubber wiring conduit into the tailgate. Mains power is provided by a piggyback fuse connector in the fusebox behind the glovebox (I can't remember which circuit!). It doesn't appear to have affected any of the electronics and the dashcams work fine, wifi to the iPhone as they should.

So it is the mirror. Sitting in the passenger seat I can see the other end of the cable seems to go into the mirror.

Update. To continue my first post: Skoda main dealer- £873 Indy VAG garage #1- £370 Indy VAG garage #2- £670 Indy VAG garage #3 - est. £550 (to be fair requested a look). ------- Indy VAG garage #4 £350 "pump only" Indy VAG garage #5 £432 Indy VAG garage #6 £380 "cambelt not included" To be fair to garages, they can't always know the water pump on this VW engine is not linked to the timing/cambelt side. I booked in with one of the garages in June, I shall update on my experience. For my curious mind I paid the £7.28 for erwin access to seek some juicy titbits (as well as workshop manual) for my VIN. I then realised that the range in prices could be because it's not as simple as pricing for "a new water pump" because there are: Thermostats x2 (the workshop manual now calls them "coolant regulator") for which there appears to be two versions for the large circuit (start of opening 105 or 97 C). Thermostat (coolant regulator) housing and covers Toothed belt Are there any forum rules about posting TPI reports from erwin? I have a couple of relevant ones which would be useful for others.

Mini Update: Exhaust still sitting on the shed floor, couldnt get it done last week, I ordered a gearbox mount for the car as there is still a "kick" driving around town, hopefully that will solve it but I imagine the engine mount will also need done at some point. I attached a few photos, first ones just a nice pic of the car from the other day, second one is of the leaks on the exhaust and third is of the new gearbox mount, bilstein one so hopefully it'll last another nearly 9 years.

I suspect driving style would have more effect on fuel consumption for some people Lets say you save 2% on a £60 tankful, which is £1.40 If that tankful of fuel gets you 400-450 miles The box you buy costs £100, so need 70 refuels saving £1.40 to get your money back, and it will take 30,000 miles to cover cost of box In the big picture, noting also have costs for servicing, car tax, insurance, depreciation, new tyres etc over your 30,000 miles is it really worth it. You will need to get a decent fuel saving to justify doing it (my 2% was an example) If you really want to save fuel, change to smaller car.

Well, if I wanted "fuel economy" I wouldn't buy a 1.6 ton SUV... I also wouldn't buy a £60 FleaBay resister box.

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback - feeling a bit better about placing an order with Maxton now. So fingers crossed I'm going for the V1 splitter and side skirts, I'll report back on my experience for others that may be interested.

Just to add to @Ivan8192 post, if you have 'auto' ambient lighting modes where it changes colour based on driving mode, you should also check and update the "Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil" adaption channels too Other than that, you might need to set a WSC and importer and equipment number on this screen if you haven't already.

It is tho. It requires no changes to geometry. What you are witnessing is probably a new compressor design / supplier being used. They may have also increased the size of the heat exchanger (front radiator) to extract more heat from the atmosphere. If they were only dumping hear before it probably required a smaller radiator.

Aeros fitted… whisper quiet! Certainly had the weather to test!

OK - as many will know, i've been on here from the days of my first Skoda Octavia vRS....circa 2008. A big detailing fan and once an OCD detailer..... but family life has been busy of late. Just getting back to it.... We treated ourselves to a new car for Christmas 2020.... so far focused on enjoying the drive, not actually washed since collection! Process (& products) in todays routine… my first wash of this car in my ownership:- Pressure wash to soak & loosen surface dirt; wheel arches flushed Snow foam treatment using Waxplanet Eight Below, 10 minute dwell then rinse Alloy clean with dedicated wheel bucke, EZ brushes and CYR wheel wash pad Chems used on wheels are Garage Therapy (GT) Wheel Shampoo, then GT Iron Oxide treatment to follow. 2nd Snowfoam layer using GT Decon Shampoo via the snowfoam lance to aid removal of old protection 2 bucket method wash with Simplewax Sudz shampoo and CYR wash pad Rinse & then Dry with Detail Freaks Absorber towel. De-tar with Autobrite Just the Tonic Decon/Fallout with GT Iron Oxide. Re-wash treated panels, rinse and dry. Some localised polishing tests with my Flex DA (Angelwax compounds used); removing some minor defects – but car still needs full polish. Car waxed with EZ Car Care Graphene Wax Protective glass wipedown with GT Quick detailer Alloy Wheel wipedown with Sonax BSD Door shuts wipedown with Sonax BSD Tyre conditioner applied using GT Tyre Serum. Next time out:- Continue polishing duties on more intricate areas – front and back bumpers + sills Interior duties…. Waiting on new interior mats on order from AutoStyle UK. …or maybe I won’t have time – will end up being a quick wash! My neighbours are used to it by now…. approx 4 hours worth spent on this beauty. Sunny Sundays are generally detailing days - really enjoyed it! Cheers, Ste.