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so many amazing superbs here, im amazed they are all just superb. Here is mine, bought it a week ago, still getting to know her 2.0 dsg, 110kwh, 85k km. First car this big, amazed by it and getting a lot of positive commentaries. Lots of work on it, but it depends on finances. Like wheels, and stuff like that, but will enjoy it along the way Cheers from Croatia

TPS have been in touch, the remaining piece of seat plastic side trim has now come into stock having been on back order for weeks and weeks - I can't imagine there is much call for people buying obscure bits of plastic trim for 15 yr old Fabias nowadays, so i'm collecting that over the weekend. I've decided to give the seat another going over with the upholstery cleaner and getting it as mint as possible, then it will be going back in the car next week - carefully as I don't want to scratch up the new plastics in the car and on the seat. In other news I have done a "thing".... In the correct Skoda Mint Green as well. Initial reaction on the Whatsapp group chat was a little less than complimentary, but it's not actually destined for the car. Just a hose reel for the garage wall. Pity really as it certainly is a stand out colour. More soon

Look up the intake mods on TSI mqb chassis. Basically involves blanking one bit off, opening up another bit and removing the snow grate. Cost is nothing if you already have the tools. Should drop the intake temp by a tad and also keep the engine bay cleaner. For what it's worth the engines are well designed thermally and you will have to spend a lot of time and money to improve the thermal efficiency of the overall package.

I don't know why you don't just take t to a good indi and get them to do a proper brake fluid flush and change using the proper equipment at the proper pressures, then do a fault scan and reset faults. Dealers are often just fitters and useless at fault tracing. As I said above if it has lit the CEL it will be logged along with many parameters and can be looked at using either the dealer system or VCDS. As others have said Brake fluid is NOT part of the servicing. It is recommended and offered as an additional service like aircon re-gas. It could have a full dealer service history and 6 year old brake fluid.

Yeah, I think that's the basics, it's a while since I've needed to tweak the service/oil mileages You need to change the oil quality and then go through the SRI/FIX/ESI channels and set them to what you need. Definitely take a 17 adpmap before you start just so you know where you started from...

I see an updated Octavia Brochure has been made available on the Skoda UK website dated July 21. Confirms a few spec changes that have been discussed here before and some which I haven't seen mentioned. Reduced colour choice... Corrida Red, Titan Blue and Meteor Grey gone. Hyper green added. Electrically operated boot removed as an option for models that don't have it as standard and VRS gets virtual pedal as standard. Changes to wheels that come as standard on some models (but don't think there are any new wheel designs). Probably a few other things I haven't noticed... Time to play spot the difference from the old brochure!

Windscreen wipers don't turn off, come on by themselves. I know this subject has been covered before but to make it even easier to find and to give an end result and my take on it. Plus show where the fuse for the wipers (30 amp) actually is rather than the confusing diagram in the 'Owner's Manual'. - http://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Model/Fabia_NJ The windscreen wipers at first started to occasionally switch themselves on, at the first intermittent setting of the stalk for my wife's Fabia Mk 3, they progressed to being on when ever the ignition was on. The repair was quite straight forward with the help of following a good clear video and, as with many car servicing, maintenance and repairs, boiled down to cleaning and lubricating - but in this case cleaning off the lubrication. The wiper stalk either had too much or the wrong sort of grease applied to the moving knuckle (and box) end of the stalk (probably at factory) and it had got all over the contacts causing the problem. Later I've put the link to the very good video with clear, simple, friendly instruction (which I picked up from another thread on this site) but a few notes might also help with it. As well as general tools you will need to have or beg or borrow an M12 Triple Square XZN Spline tool bit for the big screw that holds the steering wheel on - and I'd add some thread lock back on that screw when putting it back and T25, T15, T10 Torx screwdrivers, and a small pick is useful to raise the orange locking tab bit on the airgbag connector plus a can of good quality contact cleaner. After cleaning for contact switch lubrication I use Servisol Super 10 Switch Cleaning Lubricant. My other variances from the video were that I didn't need the battery connected to move the steering wheel just have the key in the ignition switch to turned to first position to release the steering lock. The steering wheel will feel heavier to turn as it's now unassisted. I also used a couple of old plastic spatulas to part the plastic steering wheel cowl, this parts them enough to lift the top part forwards and up to unclip it (easier to do than me to explain). I used a screwdriver instead of a bigger pick (as I don't have one) to release the airbag clips, very easy to do once you can get your head in the right place to see the clip. Take care not to pull the orange locking tab bit on the airbag connector up too far. (EFC:) The "clock spring" is what gives the airbag contact to the wiring loom. I also thought it might be easier to replace the bottom part of the steering wheel cowl before putting the steering wheel back, but I can't be sure as I forgot to try. I personally wouldn't put grease back on as that's where it started, as put I use Servisol Super 10 Switch Cleaning Lubricant, I have done for decades for other electrics. A cracking video, clear, simple, friendly instruction - Thanks to the video the wipers work again as they should. HTH. Cheers.

Hi, sorry to see your still having problems, trouble is main dealers just throw new parts at these jobs-trial and error rather than test and repair which is how it should be done, it wants looking at by someone who knows what they are doing and who understands how the thing actually works rather than working off a flow chart which most of them seem to do nowadays. If you know anyone with a good scanner such as VCDS the data from all the sensors can be viewed to see what is happening at the time of the fault events. Were there any fault codes stored in the AC ecu ?

I'm sure it is 😏

We hope it is all you wish for Mac. Good luck with it.

Yes I thought about that after I wrote that, plugs and air filter after 4 years anyway is what is recommended. NGK plugs and a MANN air filter which is what VW Group boxed items are. Getting the air filter box open, you need to remove the filter box first as all the screw heads are underneath. If you are going to replace the plugs, do it when you have that air pipe off as it makes life slightly easier.

TB is common to all cylinders. The long life spark plugs are meant to be changed every 40K miles. What mileage are you at and have they be done? Is the car on Q16 variable or Q14 Fixed servicing? Thanks, AG Falco

Have you actually removed the air duct from the turbo and throttle body, if so, VW Group advise that the O-rings re never reused, certainly on my wife's 2015 Polo with the 110PS version of that engine, a spot of oil does end up traversing that plastic duct or air tube, but the upper surface of the TB looks okay other than needing a careful de-oiling using some very dry paper tissue - and doing the same to the plastic air pipe, I replaced both O-rings after the end of that pipe showed a gathering of oil mist, but it still comes back - maybe I applied a touch of clean engine oi to these new O-rings to stop them from scuffing when refitting that pipe - and that has had a negative effect on the sealing when under pressure from the turbo. I would expect that the best way to allow the car to "recal" that TB would be to use VCDS etc, but there used to be a general way of thinking that the car will perform that same function either by switching the ignition on and waiting for maybe 2 minutes, or it does that after the engine is stopped - on that engine, there are a few "full sweeps" of something going on after engine switch and that might even include a full sweep of the turbo waste system flap as well.

Not a stupid question at all, Depends on the code but generally if it has been cleared then it is gone. If a dealer tech has cleared it without recording it they want shooting. One reason I scan all of my cars before they get within smelling distance of a dealer service centre.

As @flybynite says. A full dealer history just means the car hasn't been taken anywhere else. Doesn't mean it's had all the necessary maintenance done or even to a good standard. Just means it's been recorded in one place. good shout getting the fluid done. It will at least clear one possiblity.

I guess that'll be engine load, so closely correlated with fast-increasing rpm as per previous graphs (and so also with potential engine reaction movement). I did do a log to compare but it doesn't inform much. Oil level is a bit more dynamic, but it's a very different engine from another decade. Coolant temp in blue, oil temp in orange, oil level in grey. Approx 10 minute trip from cold. I feel sure the A/C fault isn't relevant, that sensor will generally tell you that there's not enough cool juice to try running the system. I guess wait and see if it gets worse/glitchier? The cluster wiring may also move about in response to brisk acceleration, but it seems like a stretch of the imagination that that would be the only times you see the glitching if it were a dodgy solder joint. Apart from catching your eye, I can't see it causing any issues.

You mean the throttle body? I wouldn't expect it to be worth cleaning on a 2015 car, are you sure it's dirty? Are you experiencing any problems with the engine? What engine does your car have?

I’ve put it on a previous comment somewhere. When it gives you the option to select right or left, don’t press Left. Instead press right again, then again and then press left. Something like that. It will then stay on left until you turn off the engine again.

You dont want the dpf or gpf too hot all the time else it will fail. Certainly with the dpf if it gets too hot it will think there is a fault and not allow a regen.

Have you tried pulling fuse 12 (20A) to take the power away from the Infotainment system, leave it out for 10s and then plug in again? The front USB is certainly directly connected to the Infotainment unit. As well as de powering the Infotainment unit, pulling fuse 12 cuts the power to the USB (just tried it).

Regarding the windows, have you checked the cabling in the rubber bellows of the drivers door, where the cables run from the car interior to the door near the hinges. They have a habit of fracturing inside the plastic cable covering & sometimes even break, due to the bending every time the door is opened. Worth pulling back the gaiter & checking.

I would say my car looks more like the one on the left than the one on the right. And I just checked my invoice and it was certainly called Moon White and the premium for the colour was $AUD 700. Here is how it looked the day I picked it up.

Carrying a 2nd battery on the front rack i have fitted, and carrying more extra weight with a charger in my back pack i am getting 30 miles full assistance from each battery. That is in this pretty warm weather and the furthest i have ridden and still had some charge is 70 miles. I am planning in doing some 80-100 mile days in the next few weeks where it will be possible to get the battery charge during the day. That takes 3 hours to get a battery from near empty to full. Average speed on road or is about 13mph.

" Engine then revved itself to 6k rpm for a few seconds when I put gearbox in neutral & dropped back to normal. No loss of power or drive but engine is noisy. " Diesel engines are governed to usually around 5k revs, as mechanical damage can occur at higher revs. As Ken says, it sounds like the engine has had a runaway running on its own oil & so not having the revs controlled by the ECU. Almost certainly due to a faulty turbo. Irreparable damage ( as in uneconomical to repair ) may well have been done to the engine & a replacement engine may well be required. Top up the oil & remove the inlet air supply from the turbo before trying to start so that the engine has an air supply but not via the turbo. If the engine is still noisy it will probably be toast. Just to add, don't run the engine for long as will probably be pumping oil through the faulty turbo still.

First impression od the original Octavia Cup car rear wing is SIMPLY AMAZING

:-) john999boy Sure I know... I spend around £30-£40 per year at the moment on PAYG in total but even the cheapest deals come in at 12*£5 = £60pa I have one of the "gold dust" o2 3-2-1 PAYG SIM's that just cant be bettered at the moment for a low use user like myself...

I had a moon white Kodiaq and you could definitely tell it was a metallic.

Don't the headlight washers pop up using water pressure, not a motor?

Probably is different local names Petrol Blue in UK, is lava blue in many countries, but same colour

You think Mamba Green and Hyper Green are the same colors? According to statements Hyper Green is a metallic color. Versus Mamba Green being a solid color.

Almost fantasy green 😂

I have the VC and I love it. I played with the various options and finally settled on the setup shown in the photos. I have the two dials showing fuel range and gear (left) with sat nav guidance and speed (right) In the middle I have the map display. I like having the main display in the dash centre set to 500yd resolution (it gives a good overview of the route and potential roadworks, plus view of my chosen POIs) and the VC display set to 100yd (which gives a magnified view useful for complicated junctions). It also shows lane info when leaving/switching motorways). Being right in your eyeline, it's easy to check with a quick flick of the eyes. I had test driven a number of Kodiaqs both with and without VC, and this convinced me it was something I wanted, so it was high on my wish list. I make use of it every day and I'm glad I have it. I have to say that now I've settled on this setup that I really like, I never change it

To be honest mate. I seem to be getting off very lightly with it all. Hence why its not going back to my dealer for just the sync function not remembering. But they do seem to know about all the issues that are about. But i called them to ask again about the latest version number and they confirmed at this time it is 1803 goodluck with your issues 🤞

@RicardoM : You are always preaching here when you are always the first which break the rules. I have met guys like you back in the late 80's when i was in the Army and now after 27 years ''On Duty" i know which is the proper way to deal with them. If you don't like mine posts just don't provoke me or put my name on your Enemy list and that's it, End of story. _______________________ So let's move on to more interesting things: I have made some corrections and my problem solved, now i have 82-84 'C before the radiator, so what's your next step? By the way have you ever tried coolant additives?

My phone would only work after enabling USB debugging followed by setting the default USB settings in the developer options to File Transfer or MTP. From a Home screen, swipe up to display all apps. Navigate: Settings > System > Advanced. Developer options. If Developer options isn't available, navigate: Settings > About phone then tap Build number 7 times. Tap the Back icon to Settings then select System > Advanced > Developer options. Ensure that the Developer options switch (upper-right) is turned on . Tap USB debugging to turn on or off . If prompted with 'Allow USB debugging?', tap OK to confirm.

Fair point

As it happens, I've got 4S2 tyres on. I can't give you as full a review as I'd like but: The car was on 16" Nokian Winter tyres before, and had got understeery, if pushed. I had thought this was the Nokians going off (the fronts did look a bit 'leaned on), but it is still there on the 18" Hankooks, so it is probably a suspension fault that I've got to find. I haven't yet driven them in sub-zero temps, so I don't know about that. i) I'l be a lot happier when the understeer goes away. I thought changing the wheel size was going to be the thing, but it wasn't ii) The change to 18s wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. While 16s are definitely more comfortable, you don't really notice on A roads/motorways, just slower roads in bad states of repair. In terms of noise, they are quite sensitive to the texture of the tarmac, with a coarse, open texture being noticeably noisier (but then, that's true of most modern tyres) So far, my initial report is that I like them, provisionally, but I'll know more when Winter comes around (The Nokian D3 tyres were hard, for a Winter tyre, and if these wear as well, I'll be delighted, even if that does mean I'm losing the last tenth of grip, particularly in winter) And I had decided I wanted to go all seasons, and saw the same review as you.It seemed to me, I'd lose a bit of summer grip by going to all seasons, and I wanted to compensate by going to a wider tyre. My second choice would probably have been the Vredesteins.

It has adaptive cruise control. Apparently it changes speed automatically. Having never used cruise control, I feel nervous about the idea of this system

Thanks @Urrell and @Robjon - great to have it confirmed.

pick up is arranged for 2pm on Saturday at nigh on the other end of the country. i will photgraph the new arrival prior to transport home so, about 1415-1430hrs Saturday you will see what ive gone and done.

No. All good.

I too have all-component extended Skoda warranty (on my 6 year old Yeti); my reading of the conditions suggest the EGR should be covered, but I can find no mention of glow plugs, either in the list of covered items or the list of excluded items. As has been suggested, it comes down to what is deemed to be a "consumable" item. Suggest you have a read of your small-print, and draw your own conclusions. (As an example, clutch components are covered, except for frictional material, which I read as release bearing, slave cylinder etc covered, friction plate not (cover plate: anyone's guess!; likewise brake components are covered, but not frictional material....which I read as discs covered, pads not.)

What warning would you have liked that a warning light was going to appear ( without warning) on your dashboard?

On a 5 year old car, if you want to try and raise a warranty claim for glowplugs, pass me the nachos and salsa.

Correct, that screen only shows the version of the infotainment system not the software versions of any of the other modules in the car - of which there are many (30 or more in scans on the Ross-Tech website).

nephew was pulled out of the 630am start by swmbo.. to be fair he hasnt been up before 9 and not sleeping properly for a couple of months, so maybe going straight into a 8k run at 630am may have been a bit of a push he has promised to go for a run himself later on after doing some work on the project. so i went pedalling my typical route, but twisted a through the trees section to boost myself an extra climb and a bit more distance. the extra climb knocked the avg speed back but an extra km and 50m climbing. it all felt good

Using a Van or WAV with a ramp as a transporter would be 'simply clever', or just a suitable trailer. http://www.bowheadcorp.com http://www.bowheadcorp.com/shop

Congrats on the new Sportline, the silver looks great. The MIB III system is a dog and has frozen up completely on me several times (requires the car to be shut off, let it go to sleep, and then re-started to unfreeze the unit). In regard to the USB, I have simply copied all the tracks in straight to the USB. I have not created any play lists - just a straight dump of music files onto the USB. Consequently it will remember the last played track, as you've found.

If you don't get a response from the dealership (or agent representing the seller you entered the financial agreement with) in a 'reasonable' amount of time, write back to them stating what you want, in that further to your previous communication dated ***, 1, An independent evaluation has found and stated in writing that the operation of the clutch system was defective and the fault has been identified with the mechanism outside of the excluded wearing parts listed in the vehicle warranty statement and present since the vehicle was built/prior to your ownership. 2, Under terms of the warranty, you expect the defective parts to be repaired or replaced and all other parts damaged as a consequence of the parts failure to be replaced at no further cost to yourself. 3, You allow them a stated time period to respond to the request with an appropriate plan of action (1 week from the date of the email/letter for example) 3a, (optional) You require a courtesy vehicle whilst yours is Off Road. (If you have one of theirs, it can speed up their decision making process) 4, If they fail to acknowledge the defect was present when the vehicle was built within the time stated or they fail to commit to carry out the repair to meet your reasonable expectations, state that you will make arrangement for the repair to be made elsewhere but you will seek to recover through legal means (Small claims court) ANY out of pocket expenses such as the cost of the repair, vehicle recovery services moving the vehicle to another repairer, time spent dealing with this issue at national minimum hourly wage rates, documented phone calls, costs of reasonable alternative transport arrangements made (bus, taxi, hire car, fuel@45p/mile and time of somebody else moving you about). Make a detailed record of your time and expenses accumilated whilst dealing with this since you presented the vehicle to them on day one of the failure. The more you detail, the more pressure you put on them to sort it out as they can see your costs are escalating. Don't get angry with them, it doesn't help. Be prepared to do what you state in writing to them otherwise they will not fulfil your expectations.

Please let me know what I have to do to get a pension from Greece because neither the French nor UK government will be doing so. Re "knock yourself out" I used it in the sense of saying "go for it", I had not realised that it also had a facetious & sarcastic use, that was not what I intended so I apologise if you read it that way, if I don't know the phrase properly in my mother tongue then I can't expect someone using their second language to. https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/283264/knock-yourself-out-what-meanings-does-it-have