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slight upgrade 🤪 no, its not the distance.. the andlebars are a solid 6inches wider than the old one... itll take a couple of goes to adjust i think... as for the braking, just around the garden... holy god its like dropping an achor compared to the old cable rim brakes. dropper post is also nice and the schwalbe tyres feel huge i think ill be happy up the hills Monday morning

nozzle blocked is the likely cause.

... unless memory electric seats are fitted and the mirror with the position feedback signals is fitted (13 pin vs. 8 pin).

Unfortunately it's time to embrace the future and make use of other digital forms of music storage as I don't think CD playback has been around for quite some time now. Once you get in to it, you'll be amazed at how much better the new system is. There will be an initial setting up learning/acquiring curve prior to that though! BTW, enjoy your new car.

It looks like the unit may have been partly jail-broken, but it hasn't been done properly (otherwise it wouldn't report as Component Protection). I'm only going from your logs sadly. Please clear your logs and report again - and if CP reappears, you know you need to speak to the guy who setup the unit for you. The trouble is that if the MIB unit gets a sniff that it is in the wrong location/unit or it hasn't been properly jail-broken, CP will cause unpredictable results with the whole unit.

I would suggest that you might first want to get the Component Protection removed first. The MIB system has in essence gone into lock down and will not start up its individual communication components until this issue is solved. Fix CP first - you can either get the unit jail-broken or you can go to your Skoda Dealer and get them to fix it (about an hour on ODIS). Other thoughts - have you connected the optical connection into the correct connection on the back of the MIB system (I think it is the grey connector)? Other thoughts could be a failed fibre optic connector.

Recently joined after getting a new Fabia Mk3 on lease for 2 years. Monte Carlo 1.0 turbo DSG. I love the colour. Really happy with it apart from no arm rest lol

Not so unnerving in Aus as no one keeps left here.

eeeeeeeeee Vitus Sentier 27 VR 2020 spec with nukeproof pedals grip and handle bar, and dropper post. sweet..

so many amazing superbs here, im amazed they are all just superb. Here is mine, bought it a week ago, still getting to know her 2.0 dsg, 110kwh, 85k km. First car this big, amazed by it and getting a lot of positive commentaries. Lots of work on it, but it depends on finances. Like wheels, and stuff like that, but will enjoy it along the way Cheers from Croatia

The ACC does NOT think the car is in ur lane - it knows the car is in the adjacent lane, and it's clearly shown in graphics. It is, unfortunately, a "safety feature" that prevents u from undertaking a car in the right adjacent lane for RHD countries, or undertaking a car in the left adjacent lane for LHD countries. This feature can b disabled using VCDS or OBDEleven. Plenty have done it, including myself.

I've tried to describe this just in words far too often so it's about time I added some piccies and video. To measure the overall parasitic current correctly on modern cars, you need to use a bit of stealth. There are various reasons for this which I won't go into, but it entails setting things up so that you can have the car fully locked up, whilst still accessing the battery, and the car not getting awoken by any interruptions to the current supply. Start by opening the bonnet. Then push the bonnet latch down (like it would be if you let the bonnet drop again). Use a screwdriver or similar: Now the car won't think the bonnet is open even though it is. Loosen the battery negative terminal so that it can be pulled off vertically very easily, but then leave it fully down/connected: Now ensure all doors are closed, all keys are outside the cabin then lock the car, and leave it alone for at least 30 minutes. Set your meter up ready to make a measurement. Dial set to a range like 200mA DC and the probes in the appropriate holes: Now the bit that requires a little dexterity and care. Remember the important thing here is not to interrupt the current flow, or the many control units will all wake up from their sleep state, and the reading will be useless. Put the red meter probe onto the battery clamp and hold it firmly on there, with a grip that means you can also lift the clamp up with that hand; practice this if it isn't something you can easily do, or employ an assistant to add an extra hand. Put the black meter probe vertically downwards onto the battery negative post, through the battery clamp, so that the clamp can be lifted up around the probe, without touching it, or losing contact between probe and battery post. Lift the battery clamp clear and read the meter. Don't be surprised if the reading jumps about by a few milliamps (mA) this is likely to be the LED on the drivers door blinking to show the alarm is set. Video showing this process below : 20210704_161540.mp4 Note down the numbers, then do up the battery clamp again. Unlock and open the car, pull the bonnet release to re-open the latch, close the bonnet and you're all done. if the reading is significantly higher than a few (2 or 3) tens of mA, try again but leave a longer time between locking the car and taking the reading.

Back in a skoda after 10 years very impressed so far 👍

was just think about this. But I can't really tell. In everyday driving I try to minimize brake usage so I don't use brakes much. And I can't remember of any real hard breaking in the last couple of 100 kms when driving normally.

Hi, I made again the parasitic current measure waiting at least 45 min after having locked the car and I got 0,06A but honestly I don't trust so much my multimeter. On ohter part, I could retrieve data from the PAS module with the ODBeleven module: When the PAS is well turned on: When PAS is dectecing voltage issue: The Value 4 of the channel 4 is the voltage read by the PAS ? It seems that when that value is low, the PAS is not turning on.

I am not giving up hope. I will await to see what the realignment of the gearbox achieves (and a wheel alignment). Worse case: new mechatronics unit and clutch/DSG.

as much as it may seem strange, it is "good" to use all the screenwash occasionally because lots ot them begin to congeal over time when sat in the tank and eventually go hard and block the nozzles. Mixing screen washes can also cause issues as they react with each other. Best practice is to find one you like, flush the sytem out with clean water using front and rear washers, and then only use / top up with which ever one you choose / prefer. Personally I find halfords bery screenwash good and it smells nice to !!.............the "cheap" ones you see in garages etc I tend not to use.

I heard a similar sound today (for the first time) followed with an Error SOS message on the virtual cockpit. The sound was short like yours and the error message only lasted a few seconds and then went away. It sounded like it came from near the SOS button. I'll keep an ear out to see if it happens again.

Hi using the forum "Search" facility is always recommended as a first. In the Octavia Guides section you will find this excellent write up.

Yeap, a bit zany but very helpful, spot on to my thinking too. Yeah a bit kooky, a bit old school (spelt in the "vintage" way) children's presenter way but he seems to me to be a genuine character and not putting it on too much for the vids and has a lot of experience and knowledge to pass on in a simple and friendly way so more power to his elbow (for those that might have a clue to what that means). And it must always be remembered that we all have to learn everything for a first time (unless you're old like me and have to relearn what you forgot repeatedly) plus to allow for those that think they already know it so dismiss it, and some have it wrong, but often can't be told, usually a male brain, I know as I've 60 years experience of such and had to defend someone trained and certificated from losing their job because they're too macho and/or arrogant to RtFM. I have to declare my own arrogance here, (I do have a 60 year old male brain) and say I've only skimmed a couple of vids as I thought I've read the 'Operators Manual' (Driver's Handbook to me) so knew all the simple stuff (forgetting I forget) so will now view them all fully to learn what I thought I already knew.

Ya I've watched this guys videos very helpful if a bit zany.

What! You mean fitting VW-branded parts to a Skoda won't increase the value?

No, it's probably the PAS pump motor rather than the starter that's pulling the voltage down.

£65 and they included the regulator as well, which I didn't need but it came as one. I must have contacted 30 different salvage yards and only a handful had any left.

zappahey - that could well be so, now I compare my Bosch with yours. The 45* chamfer on the RHS bottom of your Bosch blade in the picture is on the LHS on my new blades. The original on the naff mine & yours, has short chamfers both sides, so those are presumably a universal fitting. Maybe the longer Bosch chamfered bottom extension gives more support in the wiper arm housing & is part of the reason they don't judder & groan. The housing on the car, looks like it's meant to receive the Bosch style connector anyway, having only the one chamfer. Dremelling your blade will shorten the above noted extension and may just turn it into another Valeo, but hopefully not!!!!

My 66-reg Sportline has the Columbus system which came with a CD player. It still has the same CD in it that I put in four years ago. None of the other 20 in a pack in the glove box have been touched. The first time I hit a pothole that caused the CD to skip, I stopped using it. I've got a couple USB sticks and SD cards that hold my entire music library. And, like john999boy suggests, in traffic or at speed you will not notice any quality difference. My first after-market music player was an 8-track cassette deck. The tapes kept jamming, and I'm not talking reggae.

The Escort was the driving school car, my first car was a Citroen Dyanne,posh 2cv and great fun, after 2 ish years of driving it flat out with its 26 hp I swaped it in for a Renault 16 TS bright yellow as is my Fabia VRS, 1565 cc, then 4 years later swapped for anther Renault 16 TX 1647 cc 5 speed 97hp Webber carb I think and quite rapid in its day , I fitted a tape player to the Dyanne and put it in the Renaults . Driving was more fun in the 80s. Martin

Hi Strider, welcome to the forum. Unlikely to be standard without electric seats - I suspect will be similar to the Mk 3, my understanding is that this can be coded into the Mk 3 but passenger mirror will not necessarily dip to correct position in relation to drivers seat.

Motul Mocool (G11) https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.net/images/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/137/MoCool_(GB).pdf?1524069647 There are some others from Dei, Lucas, Royal Purple, Red Line.

Apparently there is a sensor that turns in on or off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sn6Bbhcep18

I've got a 14 plate Toledo and it's been great. I'm reluctant to sell it now, having tried about 3 years ago. They are pretty worthless TBH at even 3-4 years old as a trade-in so a 7 year old one won't attract many £'s. Yes I've had the problem with the heater blowing really hot, happened about 4 times, turn off the ignition then on and it resets itself. Now for the last 18 months it's been absolutely fine, I won't touch it whilst it's behaving. I leave the climate on all year, it stays on I never touch it apart from adding more heat in winter, in summer it's set at auto 18 c unless I want a quick blast of cold to the face.😁 It's never been regassed either from new. I self service now, oil changes around 5k miles, it's only on 27k miles. Apart from a new set of tyres, they started to perish and I had an advisory about the fronts outer edge wearing, the only other replaced was the battery. That was picked up by my local garage when the dash threw up a few lights and the engine went into limp mode. He hooked it up to his and it told him the throttle position sensor was faulty. Now just imagine if I'd have took it to SEAT for diagnosis. Anyways he suspected the battery was on its way out because when tested it seemed weak. He was correct, new battery fitted and perfect no more erratic fault codes. It's the perfect runaround for me or distance cruiser, climate control, DAB/navigation cruise control pretty good spec for a car I paid £11.5k for 7 years ago as a pre reg with only 10 miles on the clock. And just to add, I had a little water collect in one front door, fixed it myself and cleared the drain holes, simples.

Hi, my company run a salary sacrifice scheme and it has been hugely popular over the years. I've used it for the first time to get an Enyaq, delivery at the end of this month hopefully. The positives, and this is for the scheme my company offer; no hefty deposit up front, insurance for 2 people, servicing, breakdown insurance and even tyre replacement. Coupled with the fact that we can also charge for free at work in the staff car park and it makes it a no-brainer. As said above, there are penalties if you leave the company before the lease is up, so read the small print first.

Hello there, I am assuming that you want to download the maintainance manual for each car, then yes - you have to type in each VIN to get that information. You can also download information for the build of each car. In terms of your login; if you don't use the account for a period of 180 days, VAG tend to bin your account.

I had a long look at these schemes when my company was planning to announce one. They are definitely HMRC approved, and for the most part should save you money compared to a standard lease without the tax benefit. There are a couple of things I would note though to check. Firstly, these schemes are usually agreed with a single lease provider, so it is likely that the gross monthly rate before your tax benefit could well be more than you could fine a comparable deal on the same car through a leasing broker. As a result, your actual savings will not usually be the full theoretical amount of your tax savings. I even saw some examples (including on an Enyaq) where even after tax, the monthly costs was still more than a lease sourced through a broker without any tax benefit. So do a price comparison as well as just looking at the monthly tax savings. The other thing to look at is what happens if you leave the company, at either yours or the company's choice. Some of these schemes will then default the lease back to yourself individually, so you are stuck paying the balance of the lease but without the tax benefit. That was the arrangement that my company were offering so I stayed well clear as the gross lease rates were so uncompetitive. On the other hand, I do know some people that are paying very low monthly rates after tax to the point that over a period of three years, they are paying out less for a lease car than they would have lost in depreciation had they bought one outright.

must go through the bag o goodies that i got with it later. manuals, warranty, receipts etc. and the little mini tool kit that came with the bike for setup. guy i got it off seems to be really into his biking, only reason he sold was... he bought it from a guy at 2months old who used it twice and realised it didnt suit his cycling. but my guy found out after getting to use it 3 times that he cant cycle it - he has cartilage damage in his knee, so had to get a e-mtb. my money from today is going into upgrading that. price new was around 1400-1500, us the pedals, grips, saddle, handlebar and floating disc brakes. i paid him 950

Lol, I have the same problem every time these are discussed. Can’t decided if folk are taking about the PS4S or multiple PS4 tyres.

Hi all, I recently had problems with a Skoda Columbus 3T0 035 686N in my 2015 L&K Superb . The home page illuminated, then after a short while the screen went blank and the home page comes back on, the same cycle is then was continually repeated. As I was working in Ireland I was limited on companies offering repairs and opted for one in Cork who quoted €150 to repair. I took my car there but while the radio was being taken out it I was being asked if I wanted remapping and/or fitting of an alternative radio, which concerned me as I was hoping they could repair it. Anyway €20 later I was told the hard drive was u/s and again offered an alternative radio for €300. I declined and the got in touch with Rustynuts from this forum for advice, posted the radio to him who promptly informed me that it was a software problem. Radio and car are now happily reunited and working fine. Hope this gives hope to anyone out there with a similar problem.

I’ve done this mod as well, it’s useful when coming up to a lane split with traffic on the right as before it would slow me down unnecessarily. just be aware though that it will let you sail past the middle lane hoggers on a motorway if you’re in the left lane for example and while I admit there’s occasions when I do this it’s not a very good idea for obvious reasons and can be very unnerving!

Collected my Enyaq iV 80 yesterday. Loft trim and Energy Blue.

Yes, but it's a bit of a faff folding up and down compared with that on my Octy, and it leaves the hole through to the boot, which to my sensitive eye isn't aesthetically pleasing.

It's the ejector seat.

Fabia mk3 Runout edition 2021 Picked it up on: 4th June 2021 1.0L TSI 81KW 7-speed DSG Runout edition included: Sports Suspension Black Exterior Elements incl. Front Grille, Rear Spoiler, Door Mirrors, Roof, 16” VIGO Alloy Wheels all in Black 3-Spoke Multifunctional Sports Steering Wheel

Hi, you can change into Sportline/VRS so Red/carbon via VCDS coding. STG17 > Anpassung > Kanal "Tuben Darstellung" > Change code For the skin, ...... > Kanal "Displaydarstellung" > Change code.

People always seem to slate this engine but it's actually a pretty well and clever designed engine. It's just unfortunate that like any engine with a chain there can and will be failures. But most failures happen after people ignore the warning signs. I really like the separate water pump. No EGR as you said. The oil filter is very easy to access for oil changes. We've also driven with 3 adults, a dog and the boot loaded to the roof all the way to Denmark and it felt completely effortless. Never felt strained or struggled and still returned good economy. We also had a trip with the same luggage and people but also 3 bikes on the tow bar. Up and down mountain roads too. Just a peach to drive. A little quirk of the engine that a lot complain about but that is normal are the "cold" starts. So if the ambient temp is a bit warmer (no idea why) on a cold start the exhaust blows/gargles. It's something to do with a catalytic converter pre-heat where the valve timing is different to let some unburnt fuel out the exhaust valve (or something along those lines).

One small point, the Sale of Goods Act has been superseded with the Consumer Rights Act (2015), which AFAIK gives the consumer better legal rights. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Consumer_Rights_Act_2015

Love it. Hard to install or was it a straight swap? cost much?

Shocking eh!!! How did that pass quality check, or user acceptance testing?!?!? Sheesh

Had a 20 plate iV as a courtesy car last week whilst my Mk 2 was in at dealers for couple of days and it displayed this grammatically challenged exit message more often than not (but strangely not every time). So I suspect this is standard on MY21 cars but does feel rather unfinished. Hopefully the next firmware release will be proof read by a native English speaker before being released into the wild rather than just relying on Google translate again!!

Of-course it goes away if you press OK, but I guess he just wants to get rid of the message itself, at least in that form...