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I'll use the same method which lead you to ask the question in the first place. You seem to think your headlights are dim, ergo replace the bulbs. An old Yorkshire saying, "You don't need to understand how something works to know it isn't working.".

Hello all, I've read all the posts in this topic and found some wrong information. I'll try to explain how the system works in short, if anyone has some questions, I will kindly answer them. To start with, the 12V battery is charged ONLY with the high voltage system, by the power electronics that also drives the motor (the big metal block with the 6 orange wires connected to it next to the ICE) to be more precise. There is no alternator on the ICE, so if you drive in E-mode or hybrid, it doesn't make a difference in charging the 12V battery. This means the high voltage system must be active to charge the 12V battery, so only when driving or charging the HV battery. The reason why there is only 13.1 or .2V is because the 12V battery is monitored by the gateway, it knows the charging state, so if it is above 80%, ther is no need to charge it, purely wasted energy to keep the system at 14V all the time. This is why the converter only supplies 13.2V to the system to just prevent the battery from discharging. When driving and using the regen while braking, the system will be at 14V, all the modern cars do this, not only the hybrids. Actually most of them only have 12 - 12,5V while accelerating, when coasting or braking the alternator will start to charge the battery. Why Sir_Ron_Norris' battery died, I haven't got a clue, but it isn't related to driving in E-mode or hybrid. Could be an driver error (leaving a light on, something plugged into the 12V socket,...), bad ground connection or just a faulty battery. I hope with the new battery the problem has been solved.

Update. Got car back from garage this morning. They dismantle the AdBlue tank cleaned pump and all sensors and filled, all working now and show correct miles left

10 minutes ago the stewards of the British GP effectively told RBR to go f##k themselves, rejecting their proposed appeal. Apparently the new "evidence" was video of some simulations of the incident cooked up by RedBull... The tone of the stewards response was verging on accusing RB of bringing F1 into disrepute.

Look, there's a lot of righteous and officious guff being bandied about in here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1%2C1%2C1%2C2-Tetrafluoroethane?wprov=sfla1 R134a really isn't dangerous to the environment, the only reason it's restricted at all is its GWP and in the quantities we're talking about it's really neither here nor there. So quit it with the traffic warden mentality already.

This is my take, feel free to correct any mistakes or misunderstandings I've made I couldn't find anything Europe EA888 Gen 3b specific but I did find "eSelf-Study Program 920243" for NAR EA888 Gen3 engines which is where the below pictures etc are from. In regards to the "oil circuit", ignoring the usual pressure valves, the only obvious change in oil distribution I can see is for piston cooling using 18 and 19: Which are activated as per this schema suggesting it's only for fuel economy rather than decreased warm-up time: The coolant circuit is a completely different beast and that definitely changes flow paths depending on temperature. There are too many modes to explain in detail but as @flybynite mentioned, it does use the "oil cooler in reverse" to warm up the oil: This doesn't mean reversing the oil or coolant flow as @J.R. understood it. Rather that the "oil cooler" heat exchange direction is reversed to normal so it's being used as an "oil heater". The fluid flow direction through the "oil cooler" haven't actually changed, just the function

Welcome to the club. I cannot find the turning circle for the 80X, probably because no one has hold of one yet? However the turning circle for VW ID.4 GTX which is the same chassis is 11.6m vs 10.2m for standard ID.4. Standard Enyaq turning circle is slightly better at 9.3m. I'd guess you are right and the 80x turning circle will increase by around a meter.

That is why Stop / Start has an off button. But then not everyone drives just in Bristol or Cities or locations where Stop / Start was really introduced for so that hundreds or thousands of cars were sitting with engines running when not moving. As to the Stop / Start and turbos and oil and temperature, the engineers were fully aware of issues when designing the systems. Maybe some manufacturers make a horlicks of the systems but they have been on the go for well over a decade now.

The incident took place at approximately 180mph and both drivers had fractions of a sec to react ,in fact red bull acted quicker running and crying to the stewards and then all the stewards took quite a time to deliberate all the video evidence and came to a decision which penalised Hamilton/merc ,which they eventually overcame but no two weeks after the incident RB are still bleating,shame on them and the sport for allowing this.PS please could the stewards and governing body look again at the incident involving Damian hill and shuee which cost Damian a world championship😀

Go for it, did return my 2.0 TDI a month ago. Life is to short for daily faults.

Speckled wood on bramble

If headlights appear too dim, put new bulbs in. The end...

After being pestered by my Daughter for the need to charge a phone in the back seats of the car. I thought I would go OEM and fit the rear USB sockets in the centre console as my model of car didn't have them. Parts needed; I ordered these from www.skoda-parts.com, it took 1 week to deliver the parts from Europe. The only thing I didn't order from Skoda was the actual USB unit, as it worked out too expensive, it was £45 for the usb and extra for the cable. I got this from aliexpress instead as it worked out around £20 with shipping. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000454430275.html?spm=a2g0o.search0302.0.0.48f2d710S9U8kD&algo_pvid=d763b097-fa97-4d9d-84fc-cabfb2587725&algo_expid=d763b097-fa97-4d9d-84fc-cabfb2587725-26&btsid=0b0a555a16212796060048113e0e8c&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ These are the parts I ordered from Skoda parts. 5E0 863 284 D 9B9 Storage Compartment - Rear Škoda 1 × 21,84 EUR 5E0 863 229 9B9 Cover left Škoda 1 × 0,53 EUR 5E0 863 230 9B9 Cover Right Škoda 1 × 0,53 EUR 5E0 857 346 A 9B9 Cover Škoda 1 × 7,49 EUR 5E0 857 289 F 9B9 Center Tunnel Cover Škoda 1 × 11,09 EUR POST14.00 Shipping 1 × 16,80 EUR Total price incl. shipping and VAT 58,28 EUR The only tools i needed was a Torx tx20 bit and the ratchet to put it in. Small flat screwdriver to help remove the 12v cigarette lighter socket. A plastic trim remover might also help, but never needed one. A lighter socket removal tool would probably help too as I had to press the tabs in quite a bit, to get the socket out. So I first started off in the rear of the car moving the front seat forward to give me more room to work in, this is how it looked originally. First I removed the ashtray, just open it up, and give it a gentle pull towards you, it should unclip nice and easy. There is an area for an LED at the back of the ashtray which i'm guessing is used in some models but not in mine. Next up put your hands in the hole where the ashtray was up towards the rear vents, just give them a gentle push from behind and they will pop out, put these to one side. Next up remove the 4 torx screws shown in the following picture. Then again I just pulled the trim part towards me, you may use you trim removal tool there are two raised parts which clip in near the bottom shown in the picture. Next up round to the front seat, move the seat back as far as you can just to give you more room to work in. The next thing i did was to pull the bottom trim down this just need a gentle pull downwards and it pops out. again just to give a bit more space to work in. (be careful if left in place when sliding the chair forward as it can get caught up). Following that time to remove the cigarette socket, (It may be a good idea to remove the fuse or take the battery wire off as this socket stays live when the car is off and if you slip with the screwdriver may cause a short). There are two small black tabs near the top which need pressing in to allow the cigarette socket to out of the black housing. I had to press them in up to the point I thought I was going to break something I ended up bending the metal slightly but bent it back before I replaced the socket. So maybe the removal tool is the easier option. Next you want to unplug the socket from the wiring, and remove the black plastic ring. The loom you get with the USB plugs, just plug between the cigarette lighter plug and socket. so you can now plug in the loom to the car wiring and pull the red plug and wire down through the hole. and for now out of lower trim that was removed. The black plastic ring can go back over the new plug. And the cigarette socket can be plugged back in. I left it out of the trim for time being until i could test the usb. After this i fed the wire with the red plug for the USB unit back past the inside of the seat. Then moved into the back of the car, moving the seat forward to allow access. This bit was quite fiddly as my hands are quite large, I fed the wire up with my right hand and had my left hand in the hole where the ashtray was as far forward as it could go under the air vent pipe. it took a couple of tries but eventually felt the wire and managed to pull it through. out of the rear trim. You can see in the picture where it is going up into the trim (it looks like it is looped around the chair but it isn't I haven't pulled it taught yet). Then it was time to screw the new trim piece in put it back making sure it clicks in place then using the 4 torx screws that were removed screw them back in. Next up I clicked the USB unit into the small trim piece, it only goes one way and the aliexpress unit was a perfect fit, I could now plug the red plug into the unit and test it worked.! ....It does. So carrying on I routed the wire where I thought it should go, there was a small hook on the left hand side so used that. and clicked the second trim piece into place. the blanking pieces were next they were straight forward and only go in one way. And the vents were next make sure the vent pipe is seated right as it is loose in there and I had moved it when squeezing my hand in there. These just pushed straight back in make sure you hear them click in place. Also the new smaller Ashtray just clicks in the same as before. Following this i tucked the wire up inside the centre console, and clipped the front piece of trim back in place again it just clips in place nothing too awkward. and pushed the black clip and cigarette socket back into place. The last picture looks patchy its because i had just wiped my greasy fingerprints off of it.!! And Voila one happy Daughter can now charge her phone in the back of the car.

Hi guys. I have to say, I've had to say goodbye to my Mk1 L&K. After over 7 years of ownership, it was time to move on, especially after being tucked up by a national franchise which then tried to sue me after I left a 1 star review on Trustpilot.....Anywaaay, that's another story. I'll still be on the forum as my wife has her Mk2 which she spends no money on so there are problems to fix. You'll all be saddened to learn I replaced my Octy with a Volvo. My excuse was I needed a car but couldn't find an Octy with the spec I wanted at that time. It did take me a year of looking to find my Mk1 in the 1st place y'know. Anyway that's that. Take care chaps. Till we meet again

This thread seems to have deviated from the original problem as to what would have triggered a 'Start stop error' to appear on my Fabia III display? The probable cause suggested was that the battery, being nearly 5 years old, coupled with the fact that the car hasn't been on a decent run for some weeks, may have been seen as incapable of supporting the start stop system. It was further suggested that a good charge might rectify the whole problem. The short answer to all that is that it made no difference, a long charge of 30 hrs +, followed by a 30 mile drive on a dual carriage way, made no difference. I had driven with the Start/Stop off until I returned to the village, when I switched it back on up came the error message. As the car started and drove perfectly well I will continue to use it until the next service is due, then see if it needs a new battery. All the chat about the relative merits of EFB vs AGM has been interesting, as has the research into the price of recommended replacements. Re the nostalgia about old cars - my Morris 1000 had a starting handle!

Dude, just stop with the 'lol' already, this is a serious forum for serious advice otherwise everything just collapses into a clown show of slapstick idiocy where people deliberately give you the wrong advice just for the 'lols' so you end up trashing your engine. Ok.

Global Warming Potential

im wondering why you need to replace it ??

In that the gears/throttle response just remain normal? Does the orange light come on as well? On mine when you select 'Eco' or 'Sport' the drive mode button illuminates orange. If it always indicates that it has changed to sport mode, but just refuses to do so, maybe a software issue? Or something is blocking it - although I am not sure whether the car defines parameters to change to sport mode, this is only based on the fact that the car wont engage cruise if certain seemingly unrelated faults (e.g. a brake light is out, apparently) are registered.

This is what Mr Skoda has to say about the task:

Here's some answers, (What Varta would say if a techy got back to you, apart from the bikey bit...) Decent bikes can come with disc brakes (as an alternative to rim brakes) and the option of running sintered or resin pads and an additional option of finned pads for cooling to fend off fade for a good while. They have phenominal bite and modulation. AGM can go on conventional cars but ideally, the charge voltage needs to be limited to 14.8v to protect from overheating events and drying the battery out. The same for AGM compatible chargers ref 14.8v limit. All new batteries are fully charged ready for use but they need to be worked and cycled a few times for the performance to mature, like bedding in brakes. AGM can be as high as 13.0v at 6 weeks from manufacture but settle around 12.8v after that. Voltage cannot be toleranced as such as it is a result of an organic process but there are thresholds set after several rest period days for which the voltage must be higher for it to be fit for use and the bulk average figures are recorded for production runs for control limits and traceability references. Shelf life is dictated by voltage decay at approx 0.02v per month depending on ambient temperature. 12 months or more is not unheard of so long as the voltage is maintaned above 12.5v to prevent sulphation and permanent loss of capacity.

Its on a Volvo but its the same Gen V Haldex, the Volkswizard one on the Golf is good too. Easy job, much easier than the Gen IV. I have used these guys and found them good https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/product-tag/Skoda/ I tend to use the Borg Warner oil as they make the Haldex units but I'm sure the Febi stuff is fine

Me. heaps of guides on the hinternet. No diagnostic tool required. If you don't think it's working properly the pump maybe gone. Mine was surprisingly clean though given 50k miles and I suspect no previous change. It can be done with the car on stands, I did. Reaching up for the bolts and removal of the wiring loom (and refitting is tricky) from flat on your back is a challenge though.. I left the loom in place but its not ideal with the pump hanging from the loom and you need to clean the mesh screen in situ in that case. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pUXkDXt1cw

There are axle changes during the production period of Mk2 Fabia. Several threads about on the subject of the axles. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/419318-disc-rear-axle-swap http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/450084-monte-carlo-2012-5j-rear-disc-conversion

Greetings. I saw this in yesterday's Guardian. It give a positive spin on the Enyaq, as part of an article about getting from Lands End to the top of Scotland, with all those related infrastructure issues! https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2021/jul/28/leading-the-charge-can-i-make-it-from-lands-end-to-john-ogroats-in-an-electric-car

Same car underneath so it should fit. I learned from here that our cars have the older rear suspension from the mk1 fabia, while the ibizas and the polos of the same age as our cars had a newer, slightly wider setup. Apparantly both fit straight up. Are you changing to discs?

The Thule Aerobars are well worth the expense, I have them for my estate.

Another vote for Goodyear Asymmetric 5, make sure they have right amount of air in them for best results, I added recommended for 4 people. The Bridgestones it came with were garbage in comparison. I have also done a fair bit of noise insulation in boot, under rear seat but still not got around to adding the mass loaded vinyl I bought a year and a half ago.. I also haven't touched the door panels, and the buzzing noise in right door panel decelerating between 3k and 2k without using pedal seems to have temporarily vanished.

nah, gave me a standard octavia they just called and said they had to replace the secondary coolant pump and thats sorted it, they made sure to say they believed it to be coincidental too. But they've replaced it under the original manufacturer warranty which coincidently was finishing yesterday!

👍 I must be in a particular good mood today,I’ve used up all my likes so it’s a 👍 from me

Good to know. Means I can use away at the current discs and pads and keep the Mintex ones spare for again. Thanks.

Then read it yourself. There are pictures too, sounds like you need them. Cooling section of the workshop manual has more You could look at your own. I have an EA888, (two actually) and worked on many more. I am happy to help the OP answer his question, but I have no interest in trying to educate the trolitariat.

Based on your reply, just played about with settings in my car and you are spot on with your thoughts. Selecting Eco drive mode reactivates stop/start. Changed my Individual settings from Sport to Eco and again, when deactivating stop/start, selecting Individual mode, stop/start is reactivated. I've had my Karoq for two and a half years and I've never noticed this before! Must learn to be more observant! Thank you for your help.

Anyone that buys Nespresso capsules shouldn’t have a problem getting the above mentioned Touch car cups as they regularly have them in “buy so many capsules, get a free car cup” offers. At last count I have 5 or 6, all free.

Do you really need a two socket charger? If you are willing to let both cars charge at 3kW why not have a single socket 7kW and a 3-pin plug 3kW charger? Easier to source and a lot cheaper I'd imagine. As far as having a lock, most of the modern chargers have a software lock on them. Also if you set timer charging on the charger to take advantage of a cheap tariff, it will not deliver charge at times outside of that.

The first-gen podpoint I have on my wall got a recent update, and I can now set coarse charging time through the app and their server will enable/disable the charger roughly according to those times. So with chargers like these, you could enable it overnight while you are most likely plugged in. (I personally dislike cloud-based smart home, it's unnecessary and slower than local hub-based control. I'm still using the in-car timer) Yes, true smart chargers like OpenEVSE will allow you total control.

Thanks e-Root, that's the most comprehensive and informative post I've seen anywhere detailing the DSG boxes across the Skoda range. It clears so much of the fog.

I think you should be rejecting for unfixed faults rather than voluntarily selling it back, which would be at a much lower price. Have a look at these threads, gives lots of handy advice on what to do https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/493264-how-many-have-rejected-or-are-in-the-process-of-rejecting/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/494667-my-fight-is-over/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/483376-annoying-things-about-the-mk4/

Did you adjust the little bowden cables properly? The handle ends of the cables have teeth on them to enable adjustment so that only a tiny bit of slack is present. Here is a pic of a front door cable but pretty much the same as the rear....

If ever I've been out and had a 'brisk' journey, when I'm getting closer to home keep an eye on the oil temperature. It would appear (just from what I've found) if the oil temperature is above 100c, the car won't cut out and the fans will be going like mad. An end from any fast drive out has a few junctions and 30mph roads so I'm able to calm the car down. If it doesn't cut out when I'm home, I just idle it on the drive for a bit.

Two million for typing "trolley bus" into your browser; I'm in the wrong job!

Dunno - It is chemically R134a, although it doesn't say so.

RedBull are protesting the result of the previous race. Maybe Mercedes will then protest Imola, after all Max did run Lewis off at turn 1 breaking his front wing... Perhaps F1 shouldn't have stewards, or rules, or indeed anything that RB doesnt approve of. If I was at the FIA I'd be tempted to slap RBR for bringing the sport into disrepute by undermining the rules and regulators.

I'm thinking 17s

You can single press for Skoda voice assistant and long press for Android voice assistant - just in case anyone hadn't stumbled across this.

Try setting ACC to Eco in the Individual drive mode settings, it backs off much sooner then and rarely needs to brake.

None of those are actively checked for an MOT. The only related 'check' is that there isn't a warning light lit

See this thread for what I have been up to with my project recently.

I know you used to get 2 years skoda parts and labour warranty if you let the dealers do them