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After having a few issues with my Samsung S20 and getting it to work with Android Auto. I finally solved the issue. My old Samsung S8 worked faultlessly but I ran into issues when Iupgraded to the S20 last year. Itried the usual resetting and reinstalling everything to no avail. Then I gave up and just had to reinsert the usb lead everytime it disconnected. So after trying a few things and being a bit bored today I went through the settings on my phone. I happened upon an adaptive battery option that I had not noticed before and turned that off. Tried it in my car and it works perfectly now. I think the adaptive battery was limiting or killing off background processes that were needed to keep the smartlink/ Android auto working. So if anyone has the same issues and I know there have been a few. Try turning off any battery adaption feature on your phone to see if that helps.

Says it all imo.

Badges finally arrived. Think they look great. Had some reservations but much better than the original and the full black I think. Thanks to @CB_4x4 for the help with the fitment guidance. 👍

Hey @pab567 - did you get anywhere with 0480 for the MIB2.5 Amundsen units. I think another member was going to try and contact you with it...?

And twice in the C4 highlights Jones said that Hamilton had pushed Verstappen into the wall last time out. But - it was good to have an independent-minded pundit in Alan McNeish rather than the usual two Red Bull-ists.

@Diljit - there are several Briskoda members near you. I think that one of the Briskoda Administrators @Gizmo lives nearby, so there are folks around and near you who might be able to advise you if you get stuck. Good luck and I hope you enjoy owning your Octy. If you are passionate about your new purchase, you might also like to get a copy of ODBEleven Pro or VCDS to understand any future issues or do any minor modifications to your car. I would also recommend getting a Freedom membership from Briskoda as it only costs 10ukp a year and keeps the forum and website going.

Was recommended Polytrol after being unhappy with all "Back to Black" products. It's magic, brush or wipe on and wipe off after it starts to go off. I have used nothing better, it's expensive but a 100ml sample pot will only cost £6 and it'll do the bumpers at least twice. https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/polytrol/

I found my bonnet release mechanism had become quite stiff. The solution was the liberal application of a weather-proof grease to the mechanism under the bonnet.

Plagiarised from a post in another forum but too good not to share here: "Red Bull gives you whinge"

New wheels for my steel grey superb, love these new wheels

Cheers bud, I knew the old girl would need some work but that's fine I enjoy tinkering with cars. My only concern is that I have a bought a daily that I will end up fettling more than the eventual track toy! 😂 I have already found a few bits I need on ebay, so will check over the car again tomorrow and put together a list before I start buying!

Looks nice enough And, from your description, sounds a lot like ours when we bought it a month or so ago - even the mileage is similar. Can't help with any advice, sorry, I'm treading water too... One thing I have realised is the surprising lack of spares (the stuff that I need, anyway).

Check your PMs

Ha haha hahaha. Just no class whatsoever. Red Bull5h1t management just cant stop themselves can they? Horner accusing Hamilton of gamesmanship for driving too slow in Q3...when it was actually a quicker warm-up lap than 2 of his previous runs... Then Marko applauding the predominantly Dutch numbskull crowd for booing the Mercedes drivers at the pole position interviews. Once again, if they two put more effort into managing the building of fast cars rather than wasting effort gobbing off, they wouldn't be 0.4 seconds behind pole position would they?

That's even got caps to top up the electrolyte levels by the looks of it, proper old school.

My circumstances are maybe a bit unusual and no no doubt EVs do suit some - I do like towns & cities. but not that atracted to the usual suburbia & pleased to end up living where we do, even if it involves some compromises, particularly regarding garden size. Neither location is good for running an EV in their present state of development. In non-pandemic times, we use the very good Bristol local bus services a lot, very convenient & the best way to get around in cities (walk down there through leafy squares & bus back), but not at the moment... Though where we spend most of our time is very pleasant and we wouldn't want to move, the edge of East London by Epping Forest is too far out & population density probably too low, to support enough local bus routes at a sufficient frequency for convenience. Most local people a little further away from our town centre have bigger houses and gardens and drives with 2 or more cars, but we like being able to walk not too far from the centre. 2 or 3 houses down our road have managed to squeeze in a parking lot with big posh EVs in all of these, one jutting out into the narrow pavement, which I find annoying. I think Citroen have brought out a 'Smart' like EV that would suit my pottering about in East London, as it would just about fit in our cottage front garden. I have an allottment a couple of miles away and going there in the Karoq, as I do at present is crazy. As well as cold starts, it's hilly + lots of stop/starting at traffic lights & through the town centre etc. so terrible for economy & engine wear - why I'd consider a hybrid if they could replace all that mechanical transmission complicated stuff with electrics. But I'm instead going for a Mi-rider electrically assisted collapsible bike for now, as I can avoid all the busy roads and take short cuts partway along tracks, that are not available to cars & it's also an attractive route scenically, even if hilly (too much for unpowered bikes) - journey times will likely be a bit less than by car & it would then be worthwhile going there just to do the odd 1/2hr job, even twice a day occasionally + the ride might even do me good. So I'm sort of getting in on the EV bandwagon. Will also be useable sometimes in hilly Bristol. I'm not a cycling junkie though and unlike a friend who goes on long bike journeys such as East/West, coast to coast, with one or two others, I've no desire to emulate him, nor probably even consider moderately big journeys - no criticism meant, just not my choice. https://mirider.co.uk/mirider-one-2021-the-best-rated-folding-ebike-on-bikeradar/

Awesome. looked myself... but didn't have the green ones i was after. Really love green... and want to paint the callipers the same green.

I was made responsible for weighing that virgin R245fa when it was delivered, and weighed when it was removed as waste. Now here is what might be a curious thing in the way some F-gases are controlled, all our R245fa waste was either scrubbed up and credited to us (maybe) or mainly sold on to foam blowers to be used as a propellant - think about it, where did that gas end up when used to blow foam, but not to worry by that time its description had been changed from being an F-Gas and so subject to strict controls, to being a propellant for the foam blowing industry.

I ordered two so it worked out cheaper than anywhere else online.

Yep, you’re correct, it’s not manoeuvre assist; did I say it was? It’s actually called Rear Traffic Alert. And who said parking sensors have anything to do with this; parking sensors have nothing to do at all with this discussion. Collision Avoidance / Pedestrian Alert / Bicycle Alert / Rear Traffic Alert all use the radar systems and activate the braking system for the first three.

Love the all black grill ...hmmm

There must be some markings on the battery somewhere, on the top and on the (long) sides. Have you pulled the felt battery covers back? Before going for a new battery, try a long charge (min 24hrs, preferably 48++hrs) using a quality battery charger that has a maintenance mode (that keeps the voltage at approx 13.6 volts after the bulk/absorption pahase is complete). That should top off the battery, and remove stubborn sulphation. It should also resync the battery management system if its got out of whack with the true state of charge

Very nice. Where did they come from??

Hurrah thanks buddy just a quick question about tea bag header tank ok I will look into it it but if you could just explain and yes build quality on this car is very good love it to bits it's got a handbrake thank God and a manual gearbox and 3 pedals and it's got analogue clocks just like my trustee or Vauxhall Zafira which I had for 17 years yes you're right the accountants came into GM at the end and destroyed it but when the French bought it that was my end of of the love affair with Vauxhall all we've had Vauxhalls in the family since 78 the Skoda Octavia 1.5 petrol hatchback in silver SE with the Denman wheels absolutely stunning it's got what is referred to as the Black pack on it and yes I suffer from OCD but she is a beauty and the best part I only paid 16 grand for it in the middle of krone they couldn't sell these cars at the end because the new model was coming out they reduced its so much and free delivered it hopefully I'll keep the little bugger for another 16 years thanks for the help been most helpful

Most Vauxhalls are built to a budget (and are not really that good) - as are Skoda's, but the build quality on a VAG car is considerably better than a GM/PSA group car, so welcome to the group and your first Skoda car. There are like all cars - niggles that you will learn about which effects all MK3's. They are good solid cars if well maintained. Firstly, I would recommend a couple of things: find the various threads about removing the Silica Teabag from your coolant header tank. These will cause you issues down the line. It shouldn't hopefully be too hard to do and worse case will require a new header tank which will set you back less than 25ukp. Secondly, with the Silica teabag removed, you will have to change your coolant every five (5) years.....no big deal. Thirdly, it is good that you are thinking ahead and doing an intermediate oil change. I've always tended to get my Skoda dealer or VAG specialist to do a service at around 6000 miles to get rid of the gunk from the running in period and from that point onwards, do an oil change every 10,000 miles will keep your car super happy for it life with you. In terms of having the correct coolant, you need to get a bottle of G12evo or G12++ coolant for your car. A one litre bottle should be good to keep in stock. Be mindful that you get the ready mixed stuff (because there are versions out there which are concentrate). A good chart to have access to is the Skoda Servicing Schedule guide - https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/8b70c541-726b-4996-9999-66ebc7ca520b which should give you an idea about what needs to be serviced and when. A lot of us are OCD and do more in the way of maintenance, because we are mad and love our Czech cars way too much. However, it is also worth noting that an Octavia is just a VW Golf in different clothing, so you are guaranteed to get good underpinnings of a car.

I guess you mean item 27 here?: gear housing; 6-speed manual transmission - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com) Looks like you'd have to measure it to get the right part number, unless it has a part number on the side you can see?

Quick test can be checked by turning on the headlights and opening up the door.

A quick Google search throws up a few problems for you here: 1. RCD330+ is an MIB unit, which is not going to be compatible with the electrical architecture in your car 2. It's not available in a Skoda version AFAICT That said, there's a user (@pab567) who has worked out how to fit an MIB Amundsen in the Superb 2 which is of a similar generation to the Fabia 2 electrically and may be able to help you with this.

Maybe not quite the thread to mention this but I've been watching some videos on the Artisan Electrics YouTube channel as they install different types of wall chargers. It's surprising the different features that some have and how others are able to have custom fascias to match the charger location.

Just did some sums to work out the equivalence versus CO2 emissions from normal driving. To start off with, I'd say it's fairer to imagine you'd only release 50-100g of R134a if you did illegally vent a non-working system, because if your system contained more than that, it would probably still be working to some extent. Let's go with 100g. So an equivalent of 130kg CO2 now. Let's pick 40mpg as a decent real-world average for a petrol car, apparently that equates to about 170g/km of CO2 emissions, or 270ish g per mile. So for the 130kg CO2 equivalent R134a release you would actually travel only 130000/270 = 480 miles Doesn't seem quite so dramatic now, although I'm in no way condoning deliberate release of any global warming gas for zero benefit, as the OP's original question suggested he was considering. What does seem dramatic is chucking out somewhere around 100kg of CO2 per tank of petrol used, tank size dependent obviously! Sounds mad considering a (40 litre) tankful of petrol only weighs about 30kg. Oxygen is heavy stuff! That's about 55 000 litres of pure CO2 gas volume at 20°C, I think?

Both Android Auto and Skoda Connect Lite have issues with power saving or Adaptive Power settings which cause some very strange issues because the phone doesn't always get things right and gives unpredictable results with data transfers. Thanks for reminding us because it does catch folk out occasionally.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-58011014

Normally the problem is just a general gunking up of the spring / latch mechanism. Take the spring unit off the bonnet - it's only 3 torx screws from memory and give it a clean and a brush down with a wire brush. Then lubricate it with something suitable (I've used copper grease and ceramic lubricant in the past - I don't think it makes a crucial difference what you use) and re-attach it. Flex it a few times to make sure you have full movement back in it again and you should be good to go. To be honest, you probably want to get in the habit of doing this every 12 months or so, just as a pre-caution. The other thing I would say is, one day when you have nothing better to do, find something that can open the latch when it gets stuck and get used to the feel of how to do it. Basically you need something long and thin and strong (a very long screwdriver or similar is ideal). Once you have that, push it in under the released bonnet and use it to push the catch free of the lever. From memory, I think you would be pushing to the right (or levering to the right) as you look into the car. It's easy to do once you have the right tool and have done it once or twice. But at least you'll know how to get it open if it does happen to you some day.

Some stations transmit the logo and some don't.

All of the remaining lights, including the steering light are because of an abs fault, and won't go until the fault is fixed. The steering light will have gone on when the battery was disconnected. Turning the wheel left and right won't reset it as it also relies on the abs sensor data to do the calibration, which it can't do at the minute. If changing the sensor doesn't fix it, then have a good look at the wiring loom from the abs module to the sensor in the hub. It's not unknown for it to get broken and cause the same fault code.

I have worked out that if I stop breathing for 5 years I will have a CO2 credit big enough to regas my home aircon system! I am practicing my apnée but fall a little short at present. My reaction to that chart, - 'kin ell!!!!

Sounds like he only ever charges from a trade virgin gas cylinder and gets supplied with industry standard (for that gas type/pressure) waste recovery cylinders which tend to built like brick toilets as they will have a long and tough life as well as needing properly cleaned out and vac'd down ready for any other gas within that pressure range being loaded back into them by the next user. A smart cookie, playing safe, maybe even replacing the filter in his recovery unit after every recovery - happy customers maybe even.

A good starting point would be to get it scanned with VCDS or similar for fault codes

Sounds like the pipe has popped off the motor or split there. You may be able to see more if you can get the wheel arch liner out

Seems to be a common problem with modern tyres if the car is parked in sun and all weathers rather than in a garage https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/469885-perishing-tyres/ There is another thread where Pirelli P7s are wearing slowly and asking for suggestions https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495755-tyre-dilemma/ P7s are not designed to be used in colder weather (they are Italian and summer tyres). My suggestion is get them checked and when you come to replace them go for all season tyres. But remember all season tyre prices jump seasonally soon. If you want recommendations then any of Continental All season contact, Goodyear vector 4season Generation 3, Vredestein Quatrac Pro. Maybe Michelin cross climate plus or Hankook kinergy 4S 2 H750 or Bridgestone A005 Evo

It also won’t close if it thinks the key is in the car and otherwise locked?

I download them from the internet put them on memory stick then install them on to the car unit, its very easy to do .

https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

Dramatic sky this evening...........

Wentworth castle gardens. The monument is in honour of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lady_Mary_Wortley_Montagu

Not strictly today, but over the weekend I fitted an OEM removable towbar and a reversing camera......a good weekends work.

Brilliant Pics, guide, and write up. I'm gonna be all over this retrofit for my car too! Thanks for taking the time to upload for our benefit

1600 miles in and running lovely. Just need the infotainment sorting!

Oh; when you register and connect to the SClite, it does use a browser connection to register your device against the dongle. The browser session is initiated inside the app. In all fairness, you are right in so much that the Skoda/VW server back end is as stable as a jelly.

The VAG Group's market strategy has always been a spread of offerings from lower cost lower margin to higher cost higher margin. Audi has been the flagship marque with all the toys and (allegedly) flashy looks, followed by VW as the "sensible" or "family" brand, then Seat as the "young person's" brand and Skoda as the "economical, reliable but not flashy" brand. Various things have happened that probably come under the "laws of unintended consequences" for VAG, including changing reliability figures putting Skoda above Seat above VW and way above Audi, the "dieselgate" scandal which has hit Audi and VW brands hard, harder economic times making buyers more concerned about value for money than bling and the outright success of the Skoda and Seat brands themselves. VAG accountants are looking hard at Margin Return (ie, how much profit they get to keep from selling a vehicle) and MR for Audi especially and VW is being reduced by market pressure on selling prices and the cost of after sales support (reliability). A major influence in the car sales market is fleets, where fleet managers are looking harder and harder at the cost of ownership - and the likes of Skoda are coming out well. Skoda's own "blinging up" of its offerings is making them more attractive to fleet car drivers which also adds to the pressure. Then of course there's the EV shift, which is adding further buggerance to the market. Despite the public image VAG likes to portray of everyone working together in harmony stories from insiders tell of bitter battles between the boardrooms of the various marques who are fighting for prominence, and I expect this will continue until the markets get past the shakeout that's gathering pace now - EVs, Covid, economic downturn, decline of the US empire, rise of European influence and the rise of the Chinese Empire. It's going to be an "interesting" ride ...