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Up to date test manual available here: MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk)

Neither rear wash or rear wipe is part of an MOT test. Thanks, AG Falco

Intercooler all cleaned and sprayed and looking great, ready to go on anytime now, been out for a nice drive too

Beautiful Red Admiral sunning itself on our washing just now: Gaz

Sorry, but i have them on my car. It is solid wheel.

I did mine using supernatural fabric sealant, it was the winner on some product test - Auto Express I think. It was about £12 (I think) so I got 2, you just reminded me I still have a full bottle to give then another coat. I got it from cleanyourcar.co.uk I think, but I can't see it on the site. It's a Dodo juice product, it's only £13 on their own website. Supernatural Fabric Sealant - hydrophobic sealant for interior upholst – SupernaturalCarCare Anyway car was 8 months old when I got it, its now 32 months old and not a mark on the seats - and I ferry grand kids about. Hope that helps.

Have you got 288mm or 312mm diameter front brake discs? The 312mm diameter brake discs on the Octavia MK3 is a TRW system not an ATE system. On the 312mm system, the OEM part number of the brake pads is 8V0698151B and the OEM part number of the front discs is 1K0615301AA Skoda Octavia 2016, floating caliper brake front PR-1ZA http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2016/drive_standart/753/hg_ug/615/subcategory/615025/part_id/2550123/lang/e

That's a really good point that you make about the warmer weather and I will certainly try to crack on whilst we have some lovely sunshine! I did not break any clips when deadening the doors, but I did purchase a trim removal tool set and this proved invaluable. I also used the steps in the workshop manual (available via a Google search and pasted below) to help me see exactly where the clips on the door cards were located. From memory, the drivers side was more difficult as it had the master window control module to remove which seemed difficult to do without breaking. I also have enclosed a photo of the factory sound deadening - if you can call it that! I was honestly surprised that they thought it was adequate to leave the factory with so little. But then I suppose that VAG must have some differences between the marques. Finally, I thought I would enclose a photo of the area that rattled the most from the lows that the speakers were playing. It was the plastic area I will show below. I actually removed the plastic panel and wrapped the edges with felt tesa tape. That really seemed to improve the seal created between the door panel and the plastic panel and eliminate the remaining rattles after the Dodo deadening was applied. I also removed the module that has connections going in (that you can see in the photo) and tesa taped underneath it, as this also was rattling! I would highly recommend choosing a playlist of songs that you can play once you think you have finished and you can then made sure there are no nasty noises left before you reassemble the door card. I did this, but not well enough! Therefore a week later I had to remove the door card again to chase down a couple of additional rattles that I had not eliminated the first time around. I found the track Ribs by Lorde to be especially demanding of the front door speakers so played this quote loudly with the bass on the head unit EQ set to about +4 to test that I had covered all the rattles and vibrations. I hope this may help and thank you again for the tips on the boot, I'll be trying that very soon!

fixed my boot lock thanks to this site , don t have to slam it to shut it and show as closed on the dashboard . 😀

Maybe most of you wont be old enough to remember the Dukes.. anyhow. Apologies for another thread from me, but you may know I am now in the middle of choosing a new car. I'll be selling my Kodiaq (I do love it, and it has been a great car) but I cant keep it given that I can sell it for just £3250 less than I got it for 40 months ago - A depreciation rate of £80 odd quid a month due to the current chip shortage. We're lucky enough to have two cars (even though the other is a 10 year old Octavia)- so happy to cope as a one car family till things improve in the car supply market. The only reason for the post I guess is to let anyone that doesn't know this is a great time to sell your car. A fair chance I wont be staying with Skoda for my next purchase - which is a shame, but I guess I just fancy a change. M.

Hi All, After 3 years of owning my Octavia, it's time to bid farewell to it with the arrival of my first company car in over 15 years...the new VW Arteon Shooting Brake eHybrid R Line I'll still lurk around, as there are many very helpful and friendly people on here. The car's not disappearing, as a mate of mine has bought it and I believe he's already set up a user account on here. Thanks to all those who have offered advice when I've needed help, and I hope I've been able to help others too Cheers, Nick

Yess but it seems those are for the Vela type wheels which look the same as the Vega but with the exception with an aero addon possibility. So the Vega Aero wheels are indeed full metal. I will give feedback if i have them myself.

Although this is perhaps an even stronger indication of current used car prices.......

Keeping your Octavia for a decade is impressive. Looking after your car to try and keep in tip top condition for long term ownership is paramount if it is going to last and be reliable. No intention of selling mine either.

I think however well a car is repaired after accident damage it is never as good as when it came out the factory. I scrapped the side of my Octavia a few months ago and was really annoyed with myself. Mostly paintwork damage, so got a local paint shop to sort it out, Nothing structural, but when it was resprayed, they didnt replace that stone protector at the bottom of the wheel arch by the rear door. Also a bit of overspray under the car.....😒

They are made of a special spage age alloy tin foil thats both flexible yet brittle and also corrodes faster than a Fiat, work hardens as well with the flapping around, took years to develop, earlier examples were not as succesfull as some of them were lasting more than 2 years. If the second one is not as corroded and fractured as the first it will be by the time I have finished typing this. They cost only slightly more to buy than the two soft drinks can that they are made from.

For one reason or another, Ive been driving my car more in the last couple of months, and it's really grown on me. Today I had reason to go round a bend faster than I normally would, and on a less than ideal line. As I went round I thought "I know full well the tyres on my Mondeo would have been chirping a bit at this speed, maybe even with a bit of understeer." but though the Octavia leant quite a bit during the turn, it went round cleanly, didn't slip or require any steering correction, and without so much as a hint of drama. (I really wasn't going round at a crazy speed though, to be fair.) If I didn't know better, I'd take credit for my expert driving, but it's really just the difference between driving a 2006 car with no driving aids (bar ABS), and a 2019 car with a whole load of clever and effective driving assistance. It's taken about a year to really bond with my Octavia, due to lockdown and not driving it much, but I've finally got to the stage where it feels natural to trust it, and to feel confident about taking the odd liberty chucking it about. I realise this might sound a bit strange, but when you drive one car for a decade and then swap to another very different car as your main car, there is a fair bit of adjustment to make. Feels good now, and I don't miss my old car as I did previously. Oddly enough, I had a text recently from the guy I'd sold my car to (an old friend from work), just to mark the one year anniversary of his buying the car. He'd driven up to Scotland in it, and is clearly enjoying it. That gave me a happy feeling too. Much better than part-ex'ing it to Listers and them bunging it straight into auction.

Thank you @ahenners and @Cubbington for your replies. I’ve greatly benefited from the help and guidance of others in the forum since joining, so I am delighted if the post is of some help to others 😀

Yes see photo

Assume this is for the disc brake backing plates. The mountings get weak and this is what will cause MOT failures. Sadly, they are usable replacement parts and not warrantable.

That looks similar to the seam sealer in my boot. I tend to look for subtle clues such as trim not fitting properly around the wheel arches or interior. Check around and under the bumper for any signs it's been removed. Missing grommets, screws, carpet not fitting under the trim etc.

Scotch Gard should do the job, there may be better/fancier products out there but if you want a solid and cheap solution you could do much worse.

Do you have an anti-gravity machine? And do the oxygen masks drop down?

Is this the phenomenon where dust and empty plastic bags float about in the back of the car as in a vacuum? My boys used to love this effect that we had in some cars I owned.

Swing MY19. I have no clue if it supports wireless smartphone connections

Yes .. it's a threaded plastic t bar arrangement. The t bar goes through the slit and turns 90 degrees with the threaded part sticking up. There is then a wide plastic threaded disc or 'nut' that goes on top and tightens down keeping the spare in place and the t bar in position https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202589799274?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338785333&toolid=10029&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1v2vVv2HGTVSZAa-nnYcNzA6&customid=s%3AGS%3Bgc%3AEAIaIQobChMI2K2VtMrW8gIVUNPtCh1JSgQfEAQYASABEgKThPD_BwE

Device Part Number (menu SETTINGS then SYSTEM INFORMATION)

Front and rear reading lights are easy, insert a thin but firm piece of plastic from the front, so insert towards the windshield, then gently pry them down, they will give and drop out! The door lights have a small indent where you can also insert a piece of plastic, and as i recall, but might be wrong, they open up from the door facing below, meaning from top to bottom.. The mirror lights also have a small indent to pry them out, i think that those indents are facing towards the windows.. The footwell lights also similarly have indents to pry them out! Hope that helped!

La Poste = the Post Office

I would say it happens at speeds from 40 to 70 km/h (25 to 45 mph). However, I don't think the altitude has anything to do with it, as I have noticed it on different places (therefore different altitudes). "are things / passengers sucked out the car or stuff sucked in" - just weird feeling in the ears. I have felt it when the rear windows are opened, but I would say that is usual since it has happened in every car I have been in. But never when only the front windows are rolled down.

@VRS_White_Hatch I looked at this and it appears Dodo Juice have made a newer version called Fabricadabra that scores very highly in independent tests. Will be ordering some. Thanks for the tip!

My 2021 SE Tech Hybrid has the 4 driving modes

@Darko-Mk What happens, are things / passengers sucked out the car or stuff sucked in, and as @Macdemonasks, at what speed , and at what altitude please ?

At what sort of speeds does problem manifest itself?

The winter pack is pretty good value IMO, and would be a must-have option for me if I was spec'ing a new car. That said, if you're on a tight budget, heated front seats for £255 sounds like a bargain.

We still have that bet

🤣 Heisenberg! Cooking in the back of a Skoda!

@MarkyG82 thanks for your replies. What you say makes complete sense however it’s bad that dealerships don’t advise that by not following the service schedule may invalidate warranty. I’ll report back what Skoda say next week.

Finally found some information. Someone might be interested http://www.vwscirocco.es/bricos/manuales/Volkswagen%20DCC%20Adaptive%20Chassis%20Control.pdf

Here is Skoda's calculator. ŠKODA ENYAQ iV Charging Speed Calculator | ŠKODA UK (skoda-auto.com)

So I seem to have found the issue. After reading another post about plugs leading yo missfire I bought some new ones and gapped them down to 0.6mm. I've driven it around a bit and I can't feel any stutters or misfiring. Thanks for all the help everyone.

I’ve got one of the cars but as yet haven’t used anything other than home charging, a 7kw ac charger at a car park, and one 150kw rapid. I haven’t had to use public chargers anywhere near as much as I thought as the actual range is really good. Looking on zap map I’ve seen some 22kw public chargers, I’ll give one a try if I’m nearby next week, but as far as I can see they have a tethered cable or you use the normal type 2 cable of the car. Do you need to additionally buy an actual 3 phase cable ? Excuse my lack of knowledge, I’m still learning something new every week with this ev thing.

I understood it is both the 60 and 80 that can go to 11 Kw/h on 3 Phase and 7.2 Kw/h on single phase. The difference in price between the cables is minimal - one one brand I was looking at today the three phase cable was 8 Euro more. https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B086QWKLN6/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A282C59MOJOD44&psc=1

My guess then is that its a feature of the dsg and is the clutch pack engaging and adjusting to suit there different revs and speed as you release the throttle. I and my wife noticed similar jerkiness on dsg cars we tried before buying a manual again... it was one of the things that put us off dsg given we live in a city of hills.

I don't know if you are referring to this but maybe it's related. When I got my car, there was always some oil around speedometer cable entry area. When I unplugged it, there wasn't an O-ring around this part. After installing an O-ring, oil spillage around there is completely gone.

Someone sell me their WRC. Thank you kindly.

So had some time in the car with the new shocks including a longish trip yesterday (1hr each way) with a mix of town, country and cruise driving. Overall the change is better in every aspect. I need to remove the rubber assisters from the rear as that "patch" is being shown up by the better damping. I will drive it for a little bit without but very likely to fit an upgraded rear roll bar as a proper upgrade. With the way these shocks work they need the travel in the stroke to react. The rubber blocks are limiting the springs somewhat at the rear. Turn in is good but the overall ride is hampered as a result. Better roll control is the way forward. Will report back again once these changes have been made. Mighty car mods discount on whiteline at the mo. Rude not to. Rear roll bar going in sooner than I originally thought.

The reason I loathe most car dealers (not exclusively Skoda, every single car dealership I have had "dealings" with has taken the Michael at some point). A BMW dealer wanted to charge me £3000 for "essential safety work" After I politely declined (much to the amazement of the service manager) my car passed it's MOT a month later (at a different place of course) with no problems whatsoever. I kept it for a further 5 years without any of the work needing to be done. Another dealer wanted to charge me £400 for some work that I fixed myself for £1.46. I just don't trust them at all. Any of them.

Number 93 belongs to...me! She's tatty and in need of TLC, but has had one owner from new until today. I'm so happy! I intend to complete a full restoration, decals included.

I picked up my MY20 Superb Combi IV on Tuesday. It is a “Style” with a few added options, as it was an ex-demonstrator from the Skoda dealership. Very happy with it so far. It has replaced a 2004 E46 320d Touring, which broke down for the first time in my 14 years of ownership the day before it got replaced.