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So here it goes, installing a chinesium double din touch screen head unit, by someone with no auto electronics experience.... atall. Welcome to Jackass. 😂 So on saturday i fitted the head unit which turned out to be alot more of a nightmare than it was supposed to be. pic of said head unit For starters, the headunit came with no harness adapter to join it up to the skoda loom, so a trip to halfords saw me buying a connect2 harness. Happy days. went to get the headunit in, went to connect up the harness adapter, turns out that the headunit hasnt got ISO connections on the back.... great. Now i've never done one single bit of auto electronics and i didnt know anyone who had so the only alternative was to take a punt, chop up this harness and wire it up one by one, i had no idea what i was doing, the below is what i was having to work my way around. cut off the plug on the head unit side to start with got left with the 2 separate plugs for the loom side Now, thinking wires are just wires i decided to go about just matching up each individual wire to their corresponding colour on either side of the adapter im making. First one done. Seemed to be easy enough apart from the strands of copper in my mouth, so i continued. i did this for all of the wires following, bit by bit finding out which did what, turns out grey, purple, green and white all relate to the speakers. tidied them up best i could given the lack of material and tools i had (please dont shoot me for the lack of heatshrink) i carried this on with the other side aswell with the power, ground, switch live etc etc. hey presto... it works! The above pic is the finished product, i will mention however the cage i got from connect2 was way way too small for the head unit, i ended up drilling out the rivets, re bending it with a pair of pliers and sticking it back in, thankfully its properly jammed in there and isnt going to be moving about any time soon and the same goes for the screen too, i'm yet to hook up the radio atenna, GPS antenna or wire up the USB ports but for now i've downloaded spotify and its doing me just nicely. There were a few wires i didnt need for one reason or another, such as the below But i think they might be for an amp and sub? if someone can let me know thatll be grand. Apart from it being a little bit slow (not in an annoying way, just compared to the mobile phones of today worth £500+) its perfectly fine and for the sake of just shy of £100, the quality of life has improved tenfold. would 100% advise this mod to bring your car into the modern era. I am going to look into splicing into the OBD port and downloading that Torque something app for live data readings, i think it'll be a nice touch to have aswell as getting a dongle fitted to one of the usb ports so i can have a consistent data connection. Still trying to find time to sort out my topmounts however lol. ***and breathe*** until next time🤙

Hi All, Thanks for your help with some questions I asked over the weekend. Test drove the Enyaq 80 today, really like it so we placed an order. Pretty much ticked every option box. Now the wait , around 3 -4 months but we will see. The spec is: 80x sportline - racing blue 21" wheels All the plus packs (lights, comfort, drive, parking, etc) Sunroof Retractable towbar (read here about issue with bike racks) Came out at 56k Obviously you will never get the money back on all the packs but wanted to order something I will really like. We are part exchanging my wife's Kodiaq as they offered us a great deal on it

Everyone able bodied enough should be required to do a training course and an examination on public roads riding a push bike before even getting to become a learner driver.

Its a space saver spare wheel, in order to get the same rolling diameter but with a reduced width of 125mm it is necessary to use an 18" wheel rim, what matters is the rolling diameter and its load rating, the load rating is at a much reduced speed and the rim should be covered by a 360° large yellow sticker warning of that and as a visual indication to any Police that you should not be exceeding 80km/h It is definitely not a wheel whose purpose was to fit over larger diameter brake discs and calipers. Does the spare wheel fit flush with the boot floor? If so then if by the means of a moulded polystryrene spacer/tool tray the its a factory fitment, if its 8cm below flush then the original spare has been lost or damaged and replaced with a space saver.

All of it, I made it all up as usual, all fantasy, I simply regurgitate what the main dealer tells me, I trust them implicitly as I would not know one end of a screwdriver from the other.

? not sure what part/section/comment you are referring to.

CARLSTON: I am over the moon happy, the voltmeter you gave me a link to, comes from Shengen China takes up to 52 days as China often uses a 3 legged very old sick donkey to deliver overland, so as well as that I bought a quicker one with Amazon Prime. I used it yesterday and it reports battery power of 13 to 14. This has stopped all the panic about having to drive miles on motorways with nowhere to go just to charge up. It has given me back my confidence that I won't end up on top of a deserted mountain with no help available. Plus, as they are not expensive, having two means I can compare readings from both, and if they are similar I can really trust them as a few reviews were not good. It has removed my fears. I am so grateful.

.. who saw it and decided not to rise to the provocation. I stand by what I have said. Signalling to an empty road indicates poor observation and awareness of other road users, but better safe than sorry. You are quite right to assume that I'm an old codger. My reaction times are much slower than they used to be, my vision is not what it used to be and the little driving that I now do is over short distances and within my current capabilities. I know my own limits and remain within them but recognise the fact that that in the not too distant future it will no longer be appropriate for me to get behind the wheel.

The DPF has to be as close to the engine as possible to get it as hot as possible to burn off the soot particles. People do not steal DPFs, they steel the catalytic converters located further down the exhaust under the car. They want the valuable catalyst metals. DPFs have no valuable metals used in their construction.

One of the more recent ones, took a while to actually find a reasonable bulb that wasn't stupidly bright

Just thought I'd post up my figures from yesterday. 244 BHP and 309 ft ld of torque with good curves on both. Engine has been mapped to Stage 2, has a 3" exhaust with sports cat and a K&N filter. Lots of other mods to the car, mostly for handling as I use it for track days mostly. Really happy with the results. Car feels very strong and still remains very drivable on the road. Picture of car is in the pit lane at Brands.

Just wanted to say hello because it's polite. I have been a lurker here for months but not anymore. Decided to finally join here for good My car is a MK1 Fabia 1.4 MPi, 8 valve. Yes it's slow, yes it doesn't have the best gas mileage. Does it take me anywhere I want to go? Yes, and comfortably so. Therefore it's more than enough I'm pretty new into cars but already replaced so many things on it myself: fuel pump, oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, horn, radio, power steering fluid, tires (well, I just ordered them but still), coolant flush, coolant tank, oil pressure sensor and many more... since there is always something to replace either because it's broken or preventively, since I am almost as old as the car. I'm 21 and my car is from 2002. Here's a picture of my chariot Hope y'all are having a good time!

Thanks. I don't know how cars can not have armrests. Might have to get a nicer one, this one squeaks too much since the plastic is so cheap on it. At least I won't fall asleep at the wheel anytime soon with it So it looks like a Classic but with the features of the Comfort? That's cool. I saw the higher end models have lighter colored seats, but that's a no from me because they look tough to keep clean. It even has the powered headlights that move up and down, but I never used it myself, seems a bit much. I'd rather have ABS or that little dashboard monitor thing, where you can cycle screens between MPG, outside temperature etc.

Oh it's an AQW. The one that has a lot of torque in the low end, great for city driving as you get the car moving fast. Why do you ask?

Why waste money on a new controller when you don't yet know what the problem is? Have you done any of the wiring checks I suggested yet? There are plenty of ways for this to be broken without the controller being the problem, especially when the car has a towbar fitted. Diagnose the fault properly rather than throwing money at it blindly.

The wheel nuts normally have plastic covers on them, hence they all look the same. Best check for wheel nut key, you might need it one day.

You could use it to test the battery voltage, but if I was using a dumb car battery charger I would connect up a constant voltmeter possibly using something like this cigarette lighter socket with crocodile clips and with an LED/LCD cigarette lighter voltmeter plugged into it. You can then see what voltage the dumb car battery charger is charging the car battery at. However, I wouldn't try fully charging the car battery using a dumb car battery charger, because if you keep charging the car battery when the battery is full you will damage it permanently (and new car batteries aren't cheap): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402994537554?hash=item5dd458a452:g:C1sAAOSwqglg7~37

Massive month for EVs. 33,000 registered/sold. Rubbish for ICE - Only 215k cars sold of which 33k were EV and nearly 14k PHEVs. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/105893/uk-new-car-sales-stagnate-september-33000-electric-cars-are-sold UK new car sales stagnate in September but 33,000 electric cars are sold

I think this is the Classic trim level. Weird I know, but it has the badges on the front fenders. Maybe the fenders have been replaced at one point and this is the Comfort trim actually? Maybe you can tell me from the image. I don't really know the trim levels that well. Yes the windows are electric in the front only. Not that it bothers me that the back windows are crank since they are one less thing to worry about. I rarely have passengers in the back anyway so Flamenco Red is very similar but the Cayenne red seems to have lighter tones and reflections, if you know what I mean.

03D198819A, item 14: oil pump; oil filter; oil dipstick - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2013 year] (7zap.com) That includes the big o-ring that seals the top of the housing.

Best I did was my cycling proficiency in primary school. I got a certificate and a nice wee pin badge, does that count?

V12 is okay. V10 & V11 can be doubtful.

How do you know re 1-2amps ? Is there a parasitic load? Might be worth checking connecting in an ammeter - remember it will initially have a load until things boot up, pumps whir etc - then settle down. Obviously don't try and start with an ammeter in circuit. Don't think your car has the usual culprit as it's the S model - as is mine! I'd expect a new battery to have covers on the terminals etc - my Yuasa did when it was changed earlier in the year. Have you ended up with someone's removed old battery somehow?

Well I was charged £77.50 + vat a wheel up here last time I got some done. I realize I probably could have gotten it cheaper south but the cost shipping them back and fore would have cancelled out any saving. I think you'll be alright with the clear. As they say, the key is in the preparation, which you appear to be getting on well with.

Maybe on the Mk1 Fabia section of the forum.

If it's a new battery and more importantly, still under warranty, I recommend taking it back to Eurocarparts and ask them to test it. I had recently had a similar problem with a battery, 3 and a half years into a 4 years warranty. They tested it, found it faulty, and replaced it with a new one without any fuss. That's what I call good service.

Just ordered V12 update as the car currently has V4 which is so old it only shows Roman roads, with messages like "XXIV miles to destination".

Sounds like the water pump giving you its first warning. There are two stages to water pump failure. The first one is the over heating, then back to normal. You might get 2 or 3 of these if you are lucky. Then the pump will suddenly fail (second stage) - usually by completely distroying itself internally or by breaching the seal for the pump.

First photo is microphone for the infotainment system and second photo of the larger slits at the back are for the interior alarm sensors.

I had similar on a passat 20tdi at about 80k, it was the water pump, mine let me down in the middle of the night, after a few times with temp going up but then returning to normal, I think a moving collar sticks shut but sometimes returns to normal.....until it doesn't 😉

Yes you can. You should do "mirror, signal, mirror, manoeuvre", which means that you check your mirrors, signal, check mirrors again and then slow down (if required) before steering. Blindly "always signalling" does nothing to ensure that you have observed before braking.

So the battery management still thinks you have the old knackered battery...

This is entirely normal (even expected) behaviour for a home charger, tapering off the charge rate as the charge in the battery rises.

It's not a deal breaker as I can get it retro fitted however she does need a car with cruise control as she's does 100 miles a day commuting.

Sadly it is so common that the pads are reported to be down to 20% when actually that should be are down by 20% so still have 80% wear left. This is told to you by someone on the Service Desk, so by someone with a NVQ in Keyboards and the use of a phone. They have had the 'Up selling training', Fuel Treatment, AC Servicing, Discs / Pads need replacing. If the technician has to come out and confirm the actual thickness of the pads they can not. So if the pads are worn and need replacing before the next service then fair enough, but best actually inspect them first or have someone else do it. You do not want the Workshop Manager or the Service Managers spiel unless they are a Qualified Technician, they gave the up selling training. So they can get the Master Tech to talk to you, they can have a look at the Pads & Discs. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/484397-rear-brakes-after-19000-miles-very-crazy-place http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/462914-rear-brake-pads http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/472653-rear-discs

What battery charger are you using? Many so called automatic battery chargers don't turn off but keep charging at a low level, and as soon as they get a bit of charge in them the charge rate drops to a very low level. If a battery charger keeps charging a car battery that is fully charged, it will damage it. Here's one example that looks like it's from the 1970's and best avoided as although it's marketed as an automatic battery charger it really is quite dumb as it's unable to detect when the battery is fully charged...and therefore keeps charging even when the battery is fully charged. If you don't have stop-start, then this Varta would have been a much better choice than the battery that you linked to on eurocarparts. Varta Battery 12V 63Ah D15 027 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251195560237?hash=item3a7c6c112d:g:~rYAAOSwaPdg0N~N

Car went in today for resolution. (Full Haldex service) Dealer advises Haldex was very dirty, and so was the oil. They have cleaned it fully, and replaced the oil and now advise all working OK.

I don't have it on my Scala but we do have it on our A3. Definitely a useful bit of kit.

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I suspect it's not a deal-breaker, CC is decidedly optional in this tiny country of ours, it's handy on a long journey but most people drive such small mileages that it's not really relevant.

Sad, I know, but I keep full records of fuel consumption. I ran a 1.4 140 BHP Octavia Mk 3 hatch five years ago. Over 15,300 miles it averaged 41.8 mpg. Having come from a Saab 2.3t with 220 bhp, I wasn't light on the Octavia's throttle. On three long trips away in the Octy, Cheshire to Kent and back for a few days, around 700 miles each time including plenty of pottering about, with four adults and a boot full of luggage, it averaged over 51 mpg each time. The best the Saab managed on the same trips was 37mpg.

Seems to be a default money spinning answer these days - I'd start with a new battery and possibly a new mechanic. Other than a new battery my son has had no trouble at all with his 2016 1.2tsi - owned since 2019.

Well its a good thing we are all different or else the world would be a boring place 👍.

yea, the unnecessary wear on engine etc is a concern, at least the superb has a proper stop/start button so you have something to alter. the latest octavia does'nt have a button for stop/start, it's buried deep in the menus, so no chance of doing anything, the next superb in 2023 will almost certainly be button less stop/start 😂

One of the items on the agenda for the trip to the Western USA was to go back to Speed Week at Bonneville Salt Flats.

If you have the Skoda connect app all the details will show on there as well. Also, you can press the e-mode button (next to the gear lever) and select options from the menu that should show actual usage.

Flicking a signal is no effort though. If there's no one there to see you then who is going to think you're stupid? My view is if I'm changing lanes and I DO indicate, even though I don't believe it's necessary, I'm not just trusting my judgement and observation, I'm giving anybody else who might be there that I didn't see the chance to use their's too. I'f it's saved one minor bump in all my years of driving I'd say it's worth it. Motorbikes and cyclist's without lights probably hardest to spot. I have yet to wear out a set of indicators, and my experience of other body parts* would imply "Use it or lose it" so I'm keeping my hands going. *mobility like touching toes etc - you have a dirty mind.

From memory the glow plug light will also come on on some old models if the brake lights are not working as well - it did on our Fabia (I doubt that is your issue but hey it might be worth a check...)

Today I have just picked up my car from VW-GROUP SPECIALISTS LTD in Swindon. They fitted a Helix performance clutch kit, AKS Sachs DMF, LUK slave cylinder and AKS braided line and billet bleed block. The line a bleed block to give the clutch a bit more of an OEM feel. Chris at VW said he felt the clutch had a 70% OEM feel to it. Got in the car and felt how heavy the new clutch was, not too heavy at all. He was right with the 70%. Gave it some gentle revs and as expected, there was a slight initial judder. That was with revs of around 1000 to 1400 revs. If you raise the revs to around 1800+ then gently raise the clutch, no judder at all. Again as I expected, I was told to run the clutch in for 200-500 miles, lots of gear changes he stated. I was surprised how soon I got used to the slightly heavier clutch, if fact after a few miles down the road it just felt as it always did. Can't push it yet with the torque on the new clutch, but getting shot of the old clutch slip will be great. Very happy so far, apart from of course that massive bill I have just paid.

Me again.... Just to prove I've not been totally bone idle this summer, I have completed an engine bay restoration on my 1969 Mini as well. Although the car was restored "professionally" in 2015, the engine had been simply removed and replaced in the repainted shell, so I have gone over it and replaced the following.. Radiator Waterpump Thermostat Coolant hoses Heater Hoses Fuel Hoses Full Service Painted the block and rocker cover in BMC Mid bronze green New chassis plates And she now looks like this.. Very please with the little thing! Polar opposite of the Fabia, but that's not a bad thing some times? Matt