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My previous Superb was a "Director's personal car" which had been used "only for commuting". I negotiated an extra discount when I showed them the Youtube video of the car being tested by a journalist with "Press Office" on the number plate.

Little cruise up Paekakariki Hill Road

The ash is an estimate. You will know it has to be *cleaned* (wouldn't advise totally replacing if cleaning is a cheap option where you live) when you can't drive 5km without triggering a regen. Also, I wouldn't look at distance between regens, but TIME between regens. I can get 400km or 100km between regens, depending on city/highway driving. But the time is almost the same every time. On the highway I might get passive regens which help a bit with the interval. As long as you don't hear your fans running every time you stop the car, I wouldn't bother. ( Had this happening to me, never being able to complete a regen and fans always running ).

The looks are growing on me. I also have a huge bag of Googly eyes to get rid of...

Check for loss of engine coolant from the expansion tank, but otherwise nothing to worry about. Steam and carbon dioxide are the two main reaction products from burning hydrocarbon fuels. Neither are visible in warm weather; but in cold weather the steam can become visible as it condenses. Is this your first winter with this car?

So a heat pump opperates constantly. I get what you're saying about keeping heat into the system, but as we already have a pull close to 100A single phase, then it isn't about just that. I will either need to put in 3 phase (Bonus of 11/22kW charging) or add a battery/panels. Both cost significant sums up front so when added to the higher price of the car makes it harder to self finance. With this, it's all down to personal opinion and risk aversion. I may be right, you may be right, neither of us may be right. Servicing wise of course it's lower on an EV, but then you still need to do brake pads, the coolant ciricuit and the usual gubbins. What I find odd is that as may garages won't touch EVs, you find the cost to do things for EVs on the network appears (admitedly only from what I've read) to be substantially higher than non-EV cars. Well you combine the charge data with the MOT data and if the car has done substantially more miles than logged against it it's a fine and you need to prove you don't owe the tax. Where there's a will theres a way... plus arguing with HMRC is rarely a good idea for an individual. Not saying it will happen, just that it's not hard to see how it could happen.

Update. While waiting for electronic specialist to be available, I came across on used climatronic module for dirt cheap money. I had to take opportunity, bought it, fitted it and everything seems to work just fine. All problems, mentioned above, has disappeared. I'll try to find someone who could repair original module from the car, just to have one as spare part. Useful information, for those who maybe could have same/similar problem, is that on European market you could find spare one, used for 50€, used with some kind of 2yr warranty for 260€ and new for around 620€ 😬

Looks better with the silver wheels...

Mitsubishi Evo 8 or 9 at Alwen Reservoir.

I agree about the space/size not being an issue. Having sat in a golf and an ID3 back to back, even though they're almost identical in external length/width, the ID.3 has much more interior space. This is mostly down to the lack of bonnet length vs the golf as it doesn't need to hide an engine under there. I'd say an ID3 has at least as much room as a golf and you could probably compare to vehicles half a class up, rather than a class down.

Tried that, and if the other half can cope with the horrible touchscreen interfaces VW have, with a real world winter range of 250 miles, then she'll have it and I'll have a diesel as I do the longer journeys. That 250 miles is for a real world visit to families, with almost no charging bar a 3 pin plug, so it's her condition. Sadly the VW user interfaces from the mk8/ID3 platform are truely toxic as she is complaining about it a lot. At that point she will get a small diesel estate and I'll end up in electric. Luckily my longer routes tend to involve a good amount of motorway, so I can start nearly full, DC charge either at the end of the motorway up to 80% or at the destination, then go from there. Still I'd need a real 250 miles to make it viable too. A second hand leaf/zoe is tempting and the range on the newer zoe is not too bad, albeit not quite in the stated range. It's a tough one to try and balance right now. I imagine that's why the lease and care deals are what most dealers are pushing for EV. Pay lots per months and we have a nice care to sell in 3-5 years. Sadly one of the cars is over 15 years old, so there's no chance on that one. This last MOT was expensive and wouldn't have been done had the second hand value of cars not been so high. As it was a banger of unknown standing was more than the repair bill. You really think so? I'm not convinced, but then I was lucky enough to have a previous diesel on PCP not outright so didn't get exposed as badly as I could have to the diesel price drop caused by dieselgate. The sums I've been working on are over 5 years, but the maths on the leccy make sense. However how to finance the substantially higher purchase price when we've already got to factor in 3 phase/solar and batteries to manage it is the main issue. (Our peak load is already pushing up against the 100A before heat pumps/EV/etc). What I will say is servicing is not zero, as you've got coolant changes (battery cooling circuits I believe) and some other items are inexplainably more expensive for an electric car.

The Spiders look really good on the Mk II! I like that. Bet they look good on the Mk III as well. The Octavia ones did. I might need to experiment.😁

Thanks for this. We pick up the Exec on Thursday! It does actually have heated rear seats (although given there will be two car seats in the back at all times perhaps not that useful) ; I think someone has added quite a few extras to it so I'm sure I will discover a few extra goodies over the next couple of weeks. I'll still miss that heated windscreen though...

Yeah i believe its the same bumber still. I'm happy with the information that it looks the same from behind Foldable tow bar was available for RS iV since august. Was not in the configurator immediately, but was available. Also later confirmed that it does not need DCC, which at least my dealer was not sure of at first.

Many fail very quickly, one one of the linked threads I was saying over a year ago that mine was making noises of impending doom and I was waiting for its imminent failure. I'm still waiting after more than a year and many thousands of miles many of which towing weights well beyond the vehicles limits. So yes it could easily have done 1300 miles with some oil, its probably too late now to forensically work out whether the mechanic was like Ron Jeremy If they made the common mistake they will not have overfilled the Haldex and it takes a very long time to drain the diff unless the oil is hot, more than long enough for someone with half a brain to realise their mistake, I say that as someone who does not have half a brain Its plausible that they eventually realised that it wasn't thin Haldex oil coming out and refitted the drain plug without refilling, they would not have been issued hypoid oil and may have decided to bury their error, you will never know or be able to prove it.

Agreed - 100% OEM is always best, and is always my preference. Have a look at all the other retrofits I've carried out. I have a pre-facelift, so initially I planned to retrofit the chrome strips from facelift taillights. However it turns out u can't do just that, and will need new facelift taillights (both inner & outer), new boot strip, new RVC, new boot button and change the wiring harness. Total cost will b well in excess of $1000AUD!!! No thanks. My craving for the facelift chrome strips is not worth that much. I'm happy with my LED pre-facelift taillights with my improvised chrome strip that cost me $10. Even the Skoda Technicians here at the service centre were stumped at the finish and quality of it. They were initially confused given mine is a pre-facelift. It's not for everyone. It's an alternative option. While it's cheap, it certainly doesn't look it. ....and added bonus - the same chrome strip roll can b used on the lower door guards, just like factory. Again at a fraction of OEM price.

That filling stations unleaded pumps now put E10 into your tank and not E5. It will very very unlikely make any difference biu when anyone is considering a car doing anything they think is different then it is simple to consider what is different other than the car being a year older.

Asking the wrong person 'how' lol...

The same fan cools the radiator, the intercooler and the aircon condensor, the fan control relay will be triggered by the Climatronic and engine control modules. There is not the physical space to have the radiators seperated with seperate cooling fans.

Thanks MartiniB, 195 maps downloaded today, fitted on a 32gb card and successfully updated

I would be interested in having a look at the old one if you would consider sending it to me Ryan? Obviously not until you've definitely got a fix with the new one.

The connections relevant to fan activation are pins 8 and 9 of the 16-pin connector at the Climatronic unit, so follow circuitry towards what's pulling each of those to ground/0V to trigger the relays in the fan control module. I expect you will find one of those pins is shorted to 0V all the time.

If I manage to repair it, I'll make new post about what was the problem and how much it cost.

Great news. I suspect a FET transistor has failed short-circuit.

Or change the settings in individual mode, sport steering, with other options as you want them.

Chrome knobs. http://www.kopacek.com/Skoda/FABIA/Fabia-I-air-vent-CHROME-buttons-COMPLETE Would also suggest spraying some of the numerous grey (but oh-so-slightly-different-colours) plastics body colour or piano black. Ash tray lid is easy. Heater controls surround is too. But you'll lose the "instructions" on the panel and possibly some lighting. I went a bit OTT and sprayed the front of the CD Tuner, and all the trim around the area. Bit of an amateur job. Wish I'd paid to get the ASR and rear heater switches done professionally, at the least.

Zoe can charge quickly on AC. If rapid charger can provide simultaneous DC/AC charging, it wouldn't be a supply problem. So it would be easy (and IMO make a lot more sense) to put in a 3-phase 22kW AC post next to the rapid for Zoe and those drivers who don't want to move their car when finished charging.

No it wasn't; it was a sure sign of water condensing in the rocker cover though.

Via the built-in apps in OBD11.

Good point which I why I was suspicious. A snotogram on Large South American River media page tends to get a result 👍

I had two leaky doors and on both occasions the best way to prevent water ingress was to remove the door carrier, reseal and refit. You might get away without removing the carrier but I didn't. However the carrier is riveted on later MK1 models like mine which is a pain. The picture links don't work, but there is a video on page 2.

I know that, but every year these Twice cause me lots of serious problem and I never remember to change the time in the car. Better if I can enable automatic option, then why not!

If you mean all engine configs then yes as mine is a Vrs IV hybrid. They have just recently released for the hybrid vrs. However on the skoda site it does now say unless you ordered the tow prep from the factory your chassis plate may not have tow weights on it. So if you dont have the weights on your plate it is technically illegal to fit a towbar. All a bit of a swizz and not sure if its a empty threat as they say MAY not. It will also cause 2nd/3rd had owners issues if they want to fit a towbar but the original owner did not and its missing the plate.

Leave a little rainbow everywhere you travel….

WoF before and after New master cylinder fitted by Wellington European The brake fluid should now stay inside the car. Quattro noises: https://fb.watch/90qg0PyMwP/ School run. Sunday driving. https://i.imgur.com/ilpkA5e.jpg https://i.imgur.com/BHom3B1.jpg https://i.imgur.com/rQBSw0T.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QKGqbUB.jpg

Okay some catchup and pics Running errands. Also, no warning lights on the dash. First time ever. https://i.imgur.com/LUDC1Ol.jpg https://i.imgur.com/brNRoVn.jpg Fitting my new oil temp sender from autewo.de - Audi Teilemarkt Proving once again I have no idea what I’m doing 😃 [Click and drag to move] I totally forgot about that internal spring. I soon worked it out though. What’s a better thing to receive than Audi quattro parts? Seals and stuff from Classic Quattros in the UK A few more little fixes. New neoprene headlight seals from Classic Quattros, the originals were perished and mouldy. Replacement for the clip on the adjuster, and I applied clear protective film to the headlights and fog lights. You know you have an old Audi when parts say “West Germany” on them. Also when door seals look like mine.

Correct. I have it from factory. From behind you can't see any difference. You need to look under the bumper to see the cut out for the tow bar.

Unfortunately if you want to own a car outright, £30k seems to be minimum to dump on an EV with your kind of requirement. If you are willing to loosen your requirement a bit, going into EV to satisfy 80% of your motoring needs and keep your current car for the other 20% longer drives. A whole world of second hand Leaf/Zoe becomes excellent purchase. If you can wait 3-5 years for current-gen EV to become common in second hand market, coming off leases. That is the best way to own EV's, let other people take the initial hit of depreciation. I feel it would be the other way. There is a supply bottleneck for batteries. Even if they can make 600 miles range that recharges in 5min, today's EV would still demand a price premium over today's fossil fuelled cars that is mass produced. Just look at price of Leaf vs similar mileage Golf. Over the lifetime of vehicle, EV actually make a huge amount of sense. £26k for a diesel would get ~55mpg meaning 11p per mile at £1.30 per litre cost + £150 per year service + £500 every 4 years for timing belt + £200 every 40k for DSG oil change => 26k + 16.5k + 2.3k + 1.5k + 0.8k = £47.5k to cover 150k miles over 15 years. £42k for a Tesla model 3 SR+ will get £2.5p per mile at off-peak leccy prices + £0 service requirement => £42k + £4k = £46k to cover same miles over same years.

Sadly the issue can be when the Technician or fitter draining the wrong oil. That should not be the case since the screen was cleaned though. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/492466-has-my-local-garage-ruined-my-snow-monster/page/2 See @peeeturrrrpost http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/447657-rear-differential-destroyed-help-please http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/356099-octavia-rear-differential-failure

EPC are a rip off. Price of batterys increased for winter. Price of aircon parts increased for summer. Always been the same. Try Tanya batteries. Amazing service and price i have always found to be spot on.

As @KenONeill states the cat makes no difference to soot, you're thinking of a DPF. You have a bad remap or a 'tuning box' which mucks about with the fuel temperature sensor.

The VW recommended way for Macs is Keka and CleanMydrive, although I do know that some use Unarchiver. ATTENTION If the map update is performed using the Apple® OS X operating system you may find that Discover Pro does not recognise the map material or displays it incorrectly. This is due to a lack of compatibility between the “7 zip” program and the OS-X operating system. In addition, the OS-X operating system has a tendency to create hidden additional files on external data media. We therefore recommend that OS X users use the “Keka” unzipping program. We also recommend using the “CleanMyDrive” program to remove any hidden files. There the issue is whether the Skoda zipping method works any better in Keka. CleanMydrive takes out the dross that Mac's put in. Another solution is to use the VW portal that doesn't have the "funny" zipped file in it but still needs the special treatment on a Mac.

I give it a hard acceleration on hill about 10 minutes and keep it at 3000 rpm and it start running smoothly on idle , also I fell it more powerful. Can't believe it, I think I've cleaned some injectors, and this after two months of running sluggish. Hope it helps someone

OK … Lego Day Surgery Unit? I don’t get it.

55555 in my 2006 Fab. Thanks, @Lady Elanore for making it right.

The car's speedo over-reads on standard tyres. At an indicated 70mph you might only be doing about 67mph. By fitting tyres that have up to 5% bigger outside diameter you increase the accuracy of the speedo. It's easy to check using GPS, as google maps now has a speedo option. If you want more sidewall height, changing to 225/45R17 and suitable rims would be better than fitting oversize 225/45R18. 225/45R17 is a common size so would be much cheaper than 225/45R18. Michelin CrossClimate2 225/45R17 94Y XL £98.15 https://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/michelin/crossclimate-2/225/45/R17/Y/94/m?tyre=42160770 Michelin CrossClimate2 225/45R18 95Y XL £146.64 https://www.blackcircles.com/order/tyres/search?width=225&profile=45&rim=18&manufacturer=michelin&delivery=1&id=10015 So if you buy 5 tyres, the 18" ones will cost £242.45 more than the 17" ones. That's a huge increase, or in percentage terms almost 50% more. Changing from 225/45R17 to 225/45R18 will increase the gearing by 4.0%. With such a big increase, the car won't pull the gears so easily.

And if you have your car serviced, simply get them to change the coolant when the timing belt and waterpump is done as you lose some anyway! That would match the required coolant change intervals perfectly.

Gee whiz you got the 5 o'clock Friday crew responding to you!! What a load of [insert chosen expression.................] Are they so devoid of understanding how part suppliers work with Automotive manufacturing that they could spin you that! The supplier that manufacturers the coolant bottle manufactured it to VWAG specification including the Silica bag!!! The wording in the VW self training guide is from memory more to do with high heat loads and the amount of silicate available in G13 being depleted, not directly referencing time. But make no mistake it was a very deliberate design feature designed and added to the reservoir tanks for a reason. Was your bag actually split and leaking granules, if not something else may be at play? If it was leaking, it is very difficult to clear the coolant system especially the heater matrix.

There are multiple threads on the Coolant tank and silica bag. E.g.: Gaz

The silica bag is a well documented issue across the VAG group. A VW tech told me it was to prolong the coolant life over time, so it should last the lifecycle of the car. It seems a little pointless to me as most cars are going to have coolant pumps changed every 5 years anyway, it makes sense to flush the system and renew. My tank was double walled to the bag can't be removed, so I swapped it for a non-silica version and change the coolant at the same time.