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Autumnal colours earlier..........

Probably the starter solenoid wire about to give up due to cracked insulation and resulting corrosion of the copper strands. Here's a photo of where it is, the red wire in the picture is a repair I did to ours a few years back, original wire is red/black I think, and thinner than that.

208kW (280hp) and 470Nm (345 lb-ft) + damp dirt roads = lots of fun! Here's a few photos of my grubby Sportline

3M VHB 5952 tape 1.1mm thick or if you need a thinner version VHB 5925 0.6mm thick, available in various widths. Hope it helps

The way to do this is to prefix the search in google with "site:https://www.briskoda.net" (without the quotes) EG: entering the following in a google search gets good hits site:https://www.briskoda.net how to hardwire a dash cam yeti https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=site%3Ahttps%3A%2F%2Fwww.briskoda.net+how+to+hardwire+a+dash+cam+yeti

The unit will need coding to make sure all the options work correctly. It will work, but may not show the parking sensors etc. Octavia & Yeti units are effectively the same.

From what I've seen build weeks are only assigned a month or maybe two head of where they are currently producing, so you wont get one until it is only a month or two out from build. It took me a month to get a build week and that was back in July before it went completely crackers.

Oh, not much else you could do, my late Dad once loked his keys in a Renault 16 at his brother inlaws 100 miles from home , phoned Renault dealer who said 'just hit the hatch chrome exposed lock barel with a hammer , covered it with a towel and it popped open without damage, no such luck nowadays. Hope it's not too expensive to fix.

Many years ago I was also puzzled why my turbo-diesel Citroen needed such a high speed rating for its tyres, and the service manager at my dealer (who I had dealt with for many years and trusted) assured me it was because the tyre's higher speed rating was needed to handle the torque from the engine, and not because the car could ever reach the speeds that the tyre was quoting. So I suppose the "speed rating" is actually shorthand for a more complex measurement of the tyre's strengths. I have also found the following statement on the Protyre website: "For most modern cars, the tyre rating is not the same as the maximum speed the vehicle is capable of. For example, most family cars will have a tyre speed rating that is higher than the car’s maximum speed. This is mainly for safety reasons and so that the performance of the tyres always exceeds the maximum performance of the car. A higher speed rating means that the tyre is able to cope with acceleration, braking, and high-speed cornering. Speed ratings are not exclusively about speed – they are also about ride comfort, tread wear, traction, and cornering ability. A tyre with a higher speed rating will give better grip and stopping power but may not last as long and may not perform as well in cold weather/winter conditions. V, Z, W, and Y-rated tyres, therefore, tend to be better suited to high-performance vehicles driven in warmer climates." Chris

Not really 'first look'... there have been videos out for ages. And there's one on my drive too 😁.

I think this might be the answer. 1964 model on sale in Bristol for £19,750.

Few things to check first, the connections going to the starter , you need to disconnect the battery earth first before pulling any of the starter motor connections off, you can also check the earth to the body and to the gearbox earth too at the same time for corrosion or breaks and also check the spade connections for corrosion and tightness as this can also cause this issue, if all look good after cleaning it is possible that the solenoid on the starter is faulty or sticking, you could find this out by trying next time it fails to turn over tap the top of the starter with a wooden stick quite hard and then try to start the car, if starter turns ok then the solenoid is faulty but normally the whole starter is replaced unless you feel brave enough to take starter off strip it down and clean and grease pivot and put the starter back together, you can test starter out of the car with jump leads and a decent battery before refitting to see if it's ok

cross compatible on: Škoda Amundsen (MIB2), Seat Navi (MIB2), VW Discover Media2 (MIB2), Audi MMI ?-?-? (MIB2), MAN Media VAN Navigation # ECE AS(A1) 2022/23 15 GB VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_1810_V15.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_1810_V15.7z Files inside: 2021.05.12 Downloadable: 2021.11.22 Published: 2021.11.25 Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU_A1_202222.zip Files inside: 2021.05.12 Downloadable: 2022.05.09 Published: 2022.06.0? Seat portal: http://seatmapdownloads.akamaized.net/EUAS/EU_AS_STD_1810.zip Files inside: 2021.02.12 Downloadable: 2021.10.19 Published: 2021.--.-- # ECE 1 2022/23 6.6 GB VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_1810_V15.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_1810_V15.7z Files inside: 2021.05.12 Downloadable: 2021.11.21 Published: 2021.11.25 Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU1_202222.zip Files inside: 2021.05.12 Downloadable: 2022.05.09 Published: 2022.06.0? Seat portal: http://seatmapdownloads.akamaized.net/EU1/EU1_STD_1810.zip Files inside: 2021.05.12 Downloadable: 2021.10.19 Published: 2021.--.-- # ECE 2 2022/23 6.2 GB VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU2_1810_V15.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU2_1810_V15.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU2_202222.zip Seat portal: http://seatmapdownloads.akamaized.net/EU2/EU2_STD_1810.zip # ECE 3 2022/23 5.2 GB VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU3_1810_V15.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU3_1810_V15.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU3_202222.zip Seat portal: - - # ECE 4 2022/23 8.4 GB VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL1_1810_V15.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL1_1810_V15.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU_DL1_202222.zip Seat portal: https://seatmapdownloads.akamaized.net/EUDL1/EU_DL1_STD_1810.zip # ECE 5 2022/23 8.5 GB VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL2_1810_V15.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL2_1810_V15.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU_DL2_202222.zip Seat portal: https://seatmapdownloads.akamaized.net/EUDL2/EU_DL2_STD_1810.zip # ECE 6 2022/23 8 GB VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL3_1810_V15.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL3_1810_V15.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU_DL3_202222.zip Seat portal: https://seatmapdownloads.akamaized.net/EUDL3/EU_DL3_STD_1810.zip # ECE 7 2022/23 6.7 GB VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL4_1810_V15.7z VW portal: - https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL4_1810_V15.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_EU_DL4_202222.zip Seat portal: https://seatmapdownloads.akamaized.net/EUDL4/EU_DL4_STD_1810.zip # ROW 1 2022/23 6.8 GB VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM1_1810_V15.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM1_1810_V15.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_MRM1_202222.zip Seat portal: https://seatmapdownloads.akamaized.net/MRM1/MRM1_STD_1810.zip # ROW 2 2022/23 4.4 GB VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM2_1810_V15.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM2_1810_V15.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_MRM2_202222.zip Seat portal: https://seatmapdownloads.akamaized.net/MRM2/MRM2_STD_1810.zip # ROW 3 2022/23 5.2 GB VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM3_1810_V15.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM3_1810_V15.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1810_MRM3_202222.zip Seat portal: https://seatmapdownloads.akamaized.net/MRM3/MRM3_STD_1810.zip # MRM DL1 2022/23 5.6 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL1_1810_V15.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL1_1810_V15.7z # MRM DL2 2022/23 1.3 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL2_1810_V15.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL2_1810_V15.7z ======= coverage ======= # ECE AS(A1) Albania, Andorra, Austria, Belarus, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Cyprus, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Faroe Islands, Germany, Gibraltar, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Ireland, Italy, Kosovo, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Macedonia, Malta, Moldova, Monaco, Montenegro, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, San Marino, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Ukraine, United Kingdom, Vatican City State # ECE 1 Andorra, Belgium, Faroe Islands, France, Gibraltar, Iceland, Ireland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, United Kingdom # ECE 2 Albania, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Greece, Kazakhstan, Kosovo, Latvia, Lithuania, Macedonia, Moldova, Montenegro, Norway, Romania, Russian Federation, Serbia, Sweden, Ukraine # ECE 3 Austria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Malta, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Vatican City State # ECE 4 Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Vatican City State # ECE 5 Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Czech Republic, Faroe Islands (land-use only), France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, United Kingdom (incl. Isle of Man), Vatican City State # ECE 6 Andorra, Belgium, Denmark, Faroe Islands (land-use only), Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Norway, Sweden, United Kingdom (incl. Isle of Man) # ECE 7 Albania, Austria, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Estonia, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Kosovo, Latvia, Lithuania, Liechtenstein, Macedonia, F.Y.R.O., Malta, Moldova, Montenegro, Poland, Romania, San Marino, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Turkey, Ukraine, Vatican City State # ROW 1 Israel, Argentina, Brazil, Fr. Guyana *, Guadeloupe *, Martinique *, Mexico, Turkey * # ROW 2 India *, Chile * # ROW 3 Australia, New Zealand, Botswana *, Lesotho *, Mozambique *, Namibia *, South Africa, Swaziland *; Reunion *, Brunei, Indonesia *, Malaysia *, Philippines *, Singapore, Thailand, Egypt *, Algeria *, Bahrain *, Jordan *, Qatar *, Kuwait, Morocco, Oman *, Saudi Arbien *, Tunisia, United Arab Emirates * # MRM DL1 Argentina, Brazil, Mexico, French Guiana, Guadeloupe, Martinique # MRM DL2 Israel, Turkey ======= instruction ======= Don't ask me details, i have Columbus Mib2H. all what i know, files must be extracted to original(Škoda's) SD Card some questions have been already answered in previous treads: -> 2022 -> 2021 -> 2020 -> 2018/2019

That's part of the reason for the move to mani-cats, they're basically impossible to steal.

Seats are done and in. Started off by spraying them with a bit of vinegar to kill any mould that might be on them, let that do its job. Then I used some car plan stuff to clean the seats off. After that I set them infront of the heater to dry a little. Then I set about the insides, I wasn't going to touch them initially, but figured I may as well. For these I used a spray can of turtlewax stuff and in fairness it did a great job, did the door card fabric, boot carpet, floormat even the headliner with it. Needless to say thats used up basically the whole can. Had these out of the car, drivers floormats been put in the mk2 for winter. While these were drying I set about trying to clean up the headliner. Lot of mould. That damp looking spot is really just a hole where a mouse had made a nest between the headliner and the roof. And of all the spots, this nest was right above the drivers side. After a lot of effort, while it did clean it up a lot, its still got some mouldspots. I think I may have a go with some fabric dye and dye it black, might be worth a try. By this time the seats had dried a little bit but what I did was start the car and let it heat up, install the seats and all back in the car, and let the heater go full blast for about an hour. This worked and the seats felt dry as after. As much as I liked the passat seats, I think these fit better. Well happy with them so far. Still have to find, demould and reinstall the rear belts but its getting there. For its part the car ran sweet as, didn't have any trouble with it getting hot, infact the opposite. I let the temp gauge get to the middle before putting on the heater, I come back an hour later and the temp gauge is reading just barely on the quarter mark which I believe is the mark for operating temperature in this car. Be it a temp sensor or a thermostat there is something not right there but the car ran well regardless. Might take a break from the seats and do the evrymod next, not sure.

...or mobility scooters.

As long as it's safe to do so there's no law (is there?) against how fast you accelerate, you could also leave it in 4th for NSL for a while if you wanted. Another idea that might cause some national or county twinges is to occasionally or as regularly as wanted to use the higher priced petrol that contains additional cleaning additives (lower f'an'ol and higher octane too) or if you don't believe it'll blow your engine perhaps a good quality additive with good cleaning properties. Of course both these things can go against faiths and beliefs so are not for everyone.

Yes, I was also thinking of checking the sensor probe end for dirt but good to check and clean electric connection point too. Same for the sensor(s) before this one too, same as computer GIGO, for engine dirt in dirt out or SISO.

i have obd 11 but im not able to code anything of it. its not possible , or something went wrong. i couldn code even fan level display ...

^ Aww, bad luck mate

Either ur doing something wrong, or there is something mechanically wrong with ur headlights. When parked 7m or so from a wall, the changes r obvious, even with small quarter turns with the Allen key. Make sure ur not adjusting the horizontal (side to side) adjusters.

I'm a 1st time Skoda Fabia mk 2 owner... Not very mechanically/technically minded so will probably be looking for help/advice mainly.

If that is a fitted price, then that would be about right at a dealership. The radiators 'retail' at approx. £200 from the dealers, plus costs of coolant and consumables say £50. So £200 in fitting would probably be around 2-2.5hours labour. The parts can be obtained from a motor factors for less than £100 if you fancy having a crack at it yourself, I would probably get under the car first to eye up the job.

Found it and looks in pretty good condition.I did see that some have melted. Ill just see what my local Skoda say.

That looks 'Superb' I would have loved a 272 in that metallic orange

Thanks AnnoyingPentium, mines a mkII but I'll be sure to check.

My advice, get the Pro version and don't use the credits and in built one-click changes. My advise is only based on things i've read about issues people have had with those one-click adaptations. I have the pro version myself and prefer to make my own changes so I know exactly what has been changed and from what to what so I can reverse any changes I made easily.

Yes, I have an appointment coming up with a VCDS-enthousiast who should be able to clear the error for me. Thanks for the heads up.

Oh okay, it did work 🙂 I tried with 7-Zip and WinRAR but it's now OK using the Windows file manager. Thanks !

Forgot to mention that belt replacement for my car is recommended after 7 years in Australia. The recommendation was pointed out to me prior the last service but to be fair they did not try the hard sell when I declined.

@Vasariah content of files is identical = cross compatible between VW, Škoda, Seat and MAN check dates which i posted in previous 2022 tread some extractors can't unpack this zips, try another

You can use VCDS or others use cheaper phone software/dongles. I have VCDS so followed this guide, you will need to do a soft reset of the head unit after coding (hold power button in). Enable Skoda Surround and Virtual Subwoofer (NOT for CANTON) Menu only appears on MIB2 cars 1 - Select Control Unit 5F 2 - Select Long Coding (Select 1 from top menu not 0) 3 - Select Byte 11 4 - Activate Bit 2 (Sound System Internal Individual) 5 - Access Media tab, then click Settings – Sound and tick the new boxes

Given the lack of consistent information from VAG importers about the cambelt life on the EA211 (some say it's for life, some including the UK Skoda importer say 5 years or 50K miles) I chose to bite the bullet and have the cambelt replaced after 5 years - and declined the offer to replace the water pump as (unlike on the 2.0 TSI) it's on the other end of the engine and reports of it failing are very rare.

yeah i think its the one under the car so will have to go for a crawl make sure its plugged in okay or if the cable has got damaged then few other things to check its bloody furbie voodoo you do one thing and another appears.

My insurance did not go up at all going from a 5 year old 1.4 TSI Octy, 150 hp, worth about £8k, to the Zoe, £34k RRP, 135 hp, only paid a few quick transfer fee. Most EVs have masses of safety sub systems, I think there are something like over 20 on the Zoe .... All the usual ESP etc and as well Blind spot, lane departure etc etc. https://www.renaultgroup.com/en/news-on-air/news/new-zoe-a-whole-suite-of-driving-aids/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Beneath the aerodynamic lines of the New ZOE lies a completely remodelled electrical architecture. It houses several advanced driver-assistance systems (ADAS) that contribute to both the comfort and safety of the car’s occupants, starting with the driver! Find out more. BY RENAULT GROUP True to their belief that an electric car should be practical and fit easily into everyday life, Renault took advantage of the new ZOE design process to redesign the entirety of its electrical architecture. What was Renault’s goal ? To make it easier to integrate and provide power to the components required by technologies designed to aid drivers, or ADAS (Advanced Driver-Assistance Systems). These systems rely on an array of sensors, cameras and radar. Located all around the car, they observe the conditions of the surrounding environment in order to guide a driver’s movements and improve the safety of both the vehicle and its occupants. The ADAS on board the new ZOE focus on aiding the driver, safety and parking assistance. DRIVING A feature like automatic recognition of traffic signals can, for example, helps keep the driver informed of the current speed limit in real time. It combines GPS data with images transmitted from the front camera to keep the maximum speed allowed permanently displayed on the built-in 10-inch display. A high-speed alert rounds out the information provided, as a warning sign is displayed when driving too fast. Without having to worry about watching speed, the driver can focus their attention on other parameters of driving. In the same way, the blind spot warning alerts the driver when there is an obstacle or another vehicle near the rear sides of their own car, preventing a dangerous lane change when a motorcycle is about to overtake you, for example. SAFETY Most driver assistance technologies help to prevent risks, but some can take on a more active role, demonstrating a real capacity to respond to problems. Such is the case with automatic emergency braking, a system that can trigger the car’s braking mechanism if the driver does not react quickly enough to an obstacle. As for the lane departure warning system and lane keep assist, they protect against any driving lapses that may be caused by drowsiness or distractions.

I took delivery of a new BMW 2 weeks ago, with a touchscreen, and have been setting it up and personalising it to my liking. Guess how many times I've touched the screen.... 0, nil, nada!! The idrive controller sitting near the gear shift is so much easier to use than a touch screen, particularly on the move, trying to hit small icons with your left fingers. I would think anyone who knows/has used the system would gladly trouser the cash in exchange for a touchscreen that is probably used about as often as an ashtray on a motorbike. It has the added benefit for those who like a clean car of when the screen is off it doesn't look like the marks and fingerprints would overwhelm the most experienced CSI! Additionally, it has voice control that, whilst not perfect, is far more "real world" than not just Skoda, but the Volvo and Honda systems I've had in the past. So, whilst I understand it sounds like a deal breaker, it wouldn't be for me.

This is a a slightly subjective response but here goes.... In essence, once every 5 years and around 90 to 120k miles. People have got 150k and still not changed it. It was usually a failed waterpump that causes them to change the belt. In essence, it also depends on how well you look after the car. Do you let the car warm up? Do you drive it with mechanical sympathy? Do you drive fast/hard or gently/respectfully? All these factors will determine how long a belt lasts. I would first start and look at the belt itself. Is it worn, fraid or stretched? Is it cracked? If so, it is time for replacement. Please remember to change the waterpump at the same time.

This bad boy was lurking on my window at work all day today😬

It’s finally in the dealer! Hopefully pick it up on Friday.

So much for "simply clever" - these are an absolute bitch to get out as although they are the same lamp holder as the boot lights, their location means it's very difficult to see what you are doing and there's not a lot of space to work whilst draped across the sill (plus I'm not quite as supple and thin as I was 30+ years ago which was the last time I used to routinely work on my own cars :-) They are so tight a fit that a plastic trim tool wouldn't do the job, needs a strong + wide (but short) flat blade screwdriver to lever them out. The release mechanism is on the end (short side) opposite the wiring connection so on the passenger side one it's the end closest to the door. If in doubt have a grope behind the plastic trim it's mounted in and you'll soon identify which end the wiring comes in on. It's then just a case of of prodding the screwdriver under the end opposite the wiring connection, pushing to release the locking tab and then levering it out. Feels like it will break but keep going. At least on the passenger side you'll then find the lead feeding it is so short you can't get to disconnect the plug which has locking mechanism built in. I ended up feeding the whole lamp back through the mounting hole and removing the flexible cover that hides the footwell ventilation ducts and outlets alongside it and pulling it out from there. That gives you just enough slack to access the connector locking mechanism and disconnect. Then when refitting it was easiest to have the cable + connector sat in the mounting hole whilst holding it from behind the trim and then pushing the lamp holder onto it (the connector self locks as cable connector seats into the lamp holder). Once the lamp holder is out you have to carefully remove the metal reflector to access the bulb. There are four tabs on plastic lens moulding that hold it on - I used small flat blade terminal driver to lift the reflector off each tab in turn to allow it to be removed. Then when you have changed bulb, the reflector just pushes back into place. Bulbs themselves are standard 5W5 wedge bulbs readily available from Halfords and the like although better value to buy a pack of ten decent quality Osram bulbs from ebay or Amazon for just over a fiver delivered Attached are a couple of photos that may or may not help you, one shows the lamp holder having just been levered out. The other shows the lamp holder with reflector removed to you can see the actual bulb holder / clamp mechanism. In my case it wasn't the bulb that was at fault, in wrangling the holder out of the trim it started working again. Fitted new bulb anyway and put back in and immediately stopped working again. What I think is the issue here is the diode that is fitted to the footwell lamps. These aren't in the physically identical boot lamps, I suspect it's something to do with the variable brightness of the footwell lamps. This provides some information on this setup: Given the bulb is OK , holder is gripping it tightly and wiring looks good it has to be something to do with these diodes which are a push-fit into the lamp holder. The diode connection looks good to me so suspect it's the diode itself that is at fault, I wonder if there's a dry joint internally which gives intermittent continuity. The diodes are readily available for few pence each e.g. Amazon have a pack of 50 available for less than 2 quid delivered. Just a case of levering the old diode out and replacing it with a new one (with leads cut to correct length), making sure polarity is same as before.

A bit pointless on such a new vehicle when cleaning would probably suffice if it is even needed, it sounds like a sensor or cabling problem, you should get it scanned as a matter of priority, it may not be getting the data to initiate or complete a regen, you probably dont have a blocked DPF but you will have if regens cannot occur and you continue driving. The absence of a signal or reliable data from the DPF differential pressure sensors may prevent the vehicles normal safeguards, warning lights, limp mode etc, from preventing the DPF from filling beyond the limit where it can be recovered. That is when you start considering DPFectomies, you don't want to put yourself in that situation.

Without try to replicate this, 15 minutes seems quite a long time for the auto stop/start to leave the engine off, I would have thought that the cabin temperature demand or the battery voltage state would have switched it back on before 15 minutes, mind you, if I considered that the traffic was not moving for 15 minutes, I would have switched the engine off probably within 5 minutes.

Ticked over onto 100,000 miles on the way home from work - 20 years old and still going strong!

You only need to move the steering wheel a minute amount for the engine to start, I very much doubt it would cause wear on the steering system.

@MiyamotoSmin I did the update. Seems okay. Radio station logo's need re-setting though. And Skoda Connect as well.

Modern cars eat batteries especially with the start/stop monitoring. I think there might have been a spate of iffy Skoda batteries, see other threads on other models, but I'd wanted to know what's defective about the battery, batteries are one of the most oversold car parts and it's rare now to get faulty batteries. If it is really defective then perhaps it's covered by a recall (there was one on our 2016 Fabia but ours was clear for that). Batteries can normally be recharged (if not already flogged to death) but this takes time and patience which most modern car owners don't have a lot of. I've revive quite a few of my neighbours batteries (one failure though) by giving them a long slow low recharge which can literally take a day or two. Faster charging can often be shallower in its effect and longevity. You could replace the battery yourself if you know someone with the coding equipment. The battery can't be under warranty if they're charging to replace it and no if a correct battery is fitted correctly it won't invalidate the car's warranty. Bosch don't make batteries as I discovered when I fitted one (it's a Vitara) but any good battery is a good battery, you want it to at least the same spec as the factory item. Generally the longer the warranty the better, subject to it being to at least factory spec Ah and CCA but don't put too much faith in just numbers bigger isn't always best (consistence of performance is better). Have a look here. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/Skoda-Octavia-Car-Battery

The parking sensors will apply the brakes if the manoeuvre braking option is ticked in the parking and manoeuvring menu.

It wont be of any use to you, its a canbus node, the switch does not conduct voltage to the motor in the manner that you are expecting, it pulls up or down a signal current from the body or comfort control module, this sends a coded signal via canbus to the node in the rear wiper motor which controls the motor. You have 2 large wires for 12V and earth, then a twisted pair for the canbus network. If you strip the motor you can hotwire it via the large contacts, you can also measure the continuity of the self park switch. Its usually siezed up through water ingress, I got mine working but it failed again after a few months, a replacement is quite cheap and is plug n play, requires no coding.

A not that recent pic of my vRS. A work in progress.