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Photos as promised

It's here! Delivered this morning, Estate 1.5 TSI SE in brilliant silver. First impressions are positive - it looks great, and I love the tone of silver. Struggling with Android Auto already but I'll post about that on another thread. Ordered 01/10/21 so 4 months and a few days, which is less than the 6 months I was originally quoted. Best of luck to everyone still waiting.

Hyundai v Skoda

Welcome to my thread about all the progress I have made and will be making in turning my Skoda into the car i want it to be. It all started in 2019 when i was bored of driving a little 1.4 punto evo and started searching through auto trader for a new set of wheels. I came across my Skoda pretty quickly, it was reasonably priced, had good service history and only 20 miles away. A quick phone call to the owner solidified my interest in the car as i could tell i was speaking to an elderly gentlemen, and to me that was the car sold there and then. I arranged a viewing of the car the next day and my suspicions were correct, he was an elderly gentleman that had owner the car for the last 10 years, servicing regularly and not driving very hard - only used to tow the caravan a few times a year. It was mechanically sound, the interior was immaculate for the age however the exterior was in a condition i had never seen before, the clear lacquer had started cracking, leaving the paint looking like snake skin - as long as the car drove nicely that's all that mattered to me. Mum and I drove home very pleased, me probably more so than her, and called the owner that evening to negotiate a price. I managed to get it for £1200 which was £300 off asking, a bargain in my eyes, we went back the next day to get it and take it home. The first thing on my list of things to do was a service. New oil, coolant, spark plugs and air filter - admittedly at this point my knowledge on cars was fairly limited so the service wasn't very comprehensive. The ran well for the next 3 months before the next mod... Lowering springs - found online at a discounted price so i quickly sent the link to my nan and that was my Christmas present sorted. Fast forward a month and it was time to fit them. What a ******* of a job that was - the front shocks had clearly never been removed before, paired with my novice mechanic skills, this job took me two evenings to complete. I was pleased with how it looked after a 35mm drop. The next issue to tackle was a very oily engine bay, the rocker cover had clearly been leaking for a while along with the oil sump looking a bit greasy - after reading through this forum and watching some youtube videos i knew what i had to do. After re-doing the rocker cover gasket and oil sump sealant i was happy that the car wasn't leaking anymore. You can see in this photo i had stupidly replaced the standard airbox with cone filter, clearly a novice, after some deeper research into it i quickly swapped back to the standard airbox which still remains to this day. The car then stayed the same for the next year or so apart form replacing some of the perished pipework and getting some new floor mats. Fast forward to 2021, my knowledge had grown massively and i was well aware of all the issues that you would get with a 16 year old, 130,000 mile car, so i set out a plan to completely refresh it. I wanted to totally re-do the underside of the car including all new arms, bushings, struts, bearings, brake lines and hardware and make the engine run sweetly by doing the common SAI, n249 and n112 delete. I started collecting all the necessary bits to do what i wanted, once i had enough for the engine work i got started on that. I got it done with the help of Bowders' tutorial and the diagrams included in about a week of evenings. The engine certainly sounded healthier, it didn't have that horrible noise coming from the SAI pump on start up anymore and sounded a bit fruitier when driving spiritedly. The amount of pipework removed was incredible, the whole process was very beneficial for me in understanding how the engine worked and where things might go wrong. Now onto the underside! I started on the front, this took a while. Buying new hardware was the best decision i made, i had to chop some seized bolts so having nice shiny new ones to put back in was very satisfying. Surprisingly, bilstein shocks weren't too expensive considering the reputation they have, the old shocks were totally shagged so it was about time they were replaced - at present i am very pleased with the ride, hard enough but not too hard as this is my daily. Clearly i didn't think about how to tackle the front in the most efficient way, looking back i should've just removed the subframe with all arms and suspension attached and do the work out of the car, but i didn't, i wanted a challenge... And now onto the rear. I had some help for this part which was nice. My unsuspecting friend joined me in resembling the rear beam and inserting it back into the car, i think this would've been 10x harder on my own. Along with new suspension and bushings i had new bearings, making the rear end feel so much better! To conclude, I have done; the engine bay deletes, new front end, new rear end, some minor cosmetic work and new wheels and tyres. The Skoda now looks like this... More to follow...

Yup... It's a PTC style so it won't draw the full current for long. When I retrofitted mine, the factory wiring diagram spec'ed a single, 100a fuse to protect the wiring 😳

I applied some side stripes for something different (stripes for Superb from Seitenstreifen.com).

I was sent this by one of my missus friends as a vain attempt to wind me up to a slagging match - I refuse to be drawn into such an exchange. Maybe somebody already put this up before What should I respond with ?

This is my other issue with EUrokneecap; every time they change their standard, they downgrade everything that's already been tested by 1 star.

... due to issues with a mounting bracket.

I think it was @HeavyMetalRich that had joked with me about ending up with the dash cup holder in my Fabia... Erm, it happened... 20220205_145939.mp4

Got a few little bits to fit, some fake carbon mirror caps only as they were cheaper then buying one black one lol and also some boot trims to get rid of the bare metal back there, something it should have had from factory How a normal citigo boot looks

Found this very helpful when changing the battery in my remote key. This process works for the non-flip out keys, AKA the leg stabber. Maybe it'll help someone else!

Haven't watched it but love Big Clive's other stuff. Does he mention cleaning the contacts that touch the battery while you're at it? Well worth doing in my recent experience, where just doing that fixed a fob that the new battery didn't.

Saturday afternoon update, I've clean the seats. The driver's being the worst now looks like something you'd consider sitting on.

And, well, if you occasionally do a full bore merge onto an NSL dual carriageway you're sorted...

This evening's sunset

Consumers also need to understand the definition of full dealer service history. Just means that all the work carried out was at a dealer. Does not necessarily mean the correct work was carried out.

hello. i'm running an old fabia sdi on veg oil recovered from restaurants (after some rigurous filtering and decantation) since a year now. i'm mixing 50/50 in the winter and during summer 30/70. i havent noticed any issues except a little brown oily gunk accumulated in the injection pump since first few tries i didnt filter properly. now using a twin filter (4 microns + 2 microns) recovered from boats to prefilter before use. Any optimization i could do to the engine regarding timing or any other idea ?! Thx.

Fabia Mk1 Centre Console Cupholder Fitting Guide Much like my other guide(s), this will “talk” you through fitting one of these elusive cupholder doodads… if you can get your hands on one, mind you. This is good modification instead of having to resort to cheaper, rattlier, vent clipping alternatives. Trust me, I know. Massive thank you to @KeithCheetham for supplying this item all for gratis. This guide works for both Pre-FL and Post-FL Fabia Mk1 models of all body types since they all share the same dashboard. DISCLAIMER, as always: I’m not responsible if you eff this up or take your fingers off (somehow). Do this at your own risk. Take proper care working with tools, or else the only tool will be yourself. Step One – Acquiring Parts and Tools: AHAHAHAHAHAHA… good luck. Alright, the process of finding the cupholder is tedious, so just wait until one pops up. The part number is 6Y0862531H47H. So erm, see above. Tools required – Torx driver with T15 fitting (or T20, whichever fits). Get some trim removal tools too, or a screwdriver with tape around the head to prevent damage. Step Two – Check Parts and Fitting: Check the parts work. Cannot explain that any simpler than that. This is what you should have: If you don't have this, then you have the wrong one. Begin removing this trim panel... Then this blank button (or heated seat module if you’re posh) … Remove screws with Torx driver. Remove the heater control panel which comes off with a little persuasion… Remove the remaining panel… Insert cupholder and refit screws… And the blank button… Refit your heater panel… Step Three – Admire Yer Handiwork: Good lad (or lady lad), you’ve gotten this far hopefully without spontaneously combusting or dying. Now take a step back (or move the seat back a notch) and admire your efforts. Finally, put the tools away, go back in the house, get a cuppa, and fire your feet up for a job well done. Job’s a good ‘un.

people looking far to "deep" What I would suggest is the clonk is from the rear lower "dog bone" engine mounting, it clonks when you change direction as the weight of the engine shifts backwards or forwards, often happens when hitting the brakes as well.

I am using Vredestein Quatracs, although I might try Dunlop all-season tyres next time as I like non-directional tyres and the latest Quatracs have gone over to a directional tread pattern.

300 ''break''. It has broken 300 times? Better put it back to standard then 😛

How did you get your hands on one?

https://www.marnet-mobility.de/aktuelle-lieferzeiten.html Obviously Skoda has the slightly longer delivery times (inside VAG group), with Octavia being the record holder. But Q3/2023 for Octavia iV? Are they kidding? I'm betting those 10 months for Octavia will become 1y+ once they include the latest delays (this week's fire). Don't know about BMW, Ford and Hyundai, but I know at Renault it's estimated at 3-4 months when you place the order, and they never deliverlater than 6months when U order the full plate - at least here in Ro. I placed the order August 23rd, accepted by the factory September 11th, somewhere in November they proposed that I give up rear-view cam. to speed up delivery (without being given a new delivery term) which I accepted. Still no build week estimate until this Friday when I last talked to the dealership. @zetzet & @MaximusMeridius it's far worse not being given a best-effort delivery estimate (since they can't offer the precise date), than being told you'll have to wait 1y or more. @zetzet you'd be surprised how elaborate the software is at the factory in order to synchronize parts from half or allover the world to build those cars - they really plan the production with months to 1 year in advance. What I call best-effort estimate costs precisely 0 cents, it's already in their system. I'm betting (don't know for sure) that each national Skoda HQ (not the individual dealers) has access to that database. I agree with you, a chip factory Covid closure in China or a fire in Mlada Boleslav cannot be predicted, but the delays are immediately included in their production planning.

I have a Superb iV. I have a home chargepoint and have the car on scheduled charging via the Skoda app, the app suggested I use a reduced charge rate to improve battery life which I selected, there definitely has been an improvement in battery life which was abysmal.

I got the CO2 from torque pro app and I just have to wait for the mot on Wednesday but I sorted all the exhaust and new 02 sensor new oil and filter and new air filter and new plugs and leads were changed few months ago it seems much more responsive now and feels like its got more power

The most it shows is just how ridiculous the EuroNCAP system has become, The same shell was 5 star EuroNCAP 8 years ago and a apart from a questionable change to the head/thorax airbags system the Zoe ZE50, and the model most people buy ie the GT Line rather than the base model PLAY which they tested the model most people have, which they did not test, has Auto Emergency Braking and Lan Departure and my model even gets Blind Spot detection. I have written to Renault as I would like them to upgrade the head airbag to at least as good as the ZE22/ZE40 was. Renault have replied and said that the 3,000 serious accidents involving Zoes, of the 300,000 on the road, they could not find one where the old airbag would have made a substantial difference to the current one but the video is interesting in that the airbag seems slow to expand to the area where a short person sitting close to the steering wheel that there head may hit the side window being pushed inwards by the intruding pole of the pole test. Personally I sit as far as the seat will go back with my head inline with the B pillar and so does the other person who uses the car but one click less than fully back. So I wish they had tested the GT Line rather than the PLAY and that EURONCAP reported more about shell strength on real accidents that their test which does not seem to match real world accidents. The Zoe is a ten year old design due for replacement and I plan to move to a Megane which EURONCAP do not seem to have tested in 7 years, they seem to be a long way behind the curve in testing current cars. My Clio, Fabia and Zoe are all pretty much of a muchness I would reckon in a similar accident, maybe the Fabia and Zoe with auto emergency braking would have an advantage but one of my daughter rates the Clio after being hit by a 32 tonne truck on the M1 and surviving. I use to pay quite a bit of attention to EuroNCAP but no more when their rating depends so much on idiot proof gadgets rather the shell strength and airbag protection but I do hope Renault will come out with a safety recall on the head/thorax airbag to improve it to atleast as good as it was. Perhaps airbags should be mandatory replaced every si many years to make sure all the subsystems ie trigger, charge, bag integrity and all those sub components of the air bag system are working 100% or even better than new several years after the car was biult. Probably end up with a Japanese type system when cars over 7 years old cannot get an MOT and therefore be used on UK roads.

Pedal box fitted. Quickest and easiest mod ever completed, 10 mins start to finish including reading instructions and routing controller into cubby (no disassembly required). Haven't driven yet, popping out later.

Roottoot, as you know I have been told my 4x4 DSG firstly had a sealed for life box! then a Skoda direct advisor said NO it's 40,000 miles for the oil change. He was getting it contact with my dealer, he then contacted me and said it is due at 80,000 miles for changing? I went to the dealer and showed him ( the service tech ) the chat transcript and 80,000 text msg. He checked and showed me the screen and sure enough it is for my model due an oil change at 80,000 miles. Right or wrong I am taking them at their word . I have saved all communication ! I have the warranty and will trust in that. Skoda are experts in confusion.

Of course we can't know, but they do. That is the core resaon for the bad experience. Why would I pay more? I already agreed to pay the price they set. This is not a budget car anymore, most Octavias here are > 35.000 € and we don't expect a premium experience, but don't deserve a ****ty one either. I guess you now think concepts like knowing at least something and first come first served are premium experience. Glad i still get premium experience at McDonalds when I step behind the line. I read the article. Let me be clear, I do understand the situation and I know it is not easy for them. My problem is not waiting, my problem is waiting and knowing nothing, not even a ballpark estimate and then seeing people getting cars left and right in less then 6 months, some with lesser spec and some with greater.

They should, but it's a non-issue since they're not compulsory once the vehicle's been registered.

It happens on my non crystal human face as well, a well known problem called cataracts!

I reckon as long as you do give it a wee blast now and again you'll be alright, as you say.

Yep, they actually rolled over without any further contact. I suspect they were testing the waters so to speak. They did tell me yesterday the vehicle was awaiting a transporter which could be 1 - 2 weeks, so we are (possibly) into the middle of February anyway, whichever way it goes.

I had somehow missed that one too

Thanks for the reply. The other car had the same problem. An erratic engine overheating warning light. I've had sensors, thermostat even waterpump changed so I think it's an electrical problem. Going to see an auto spark on Thursday so here's hoping.

I had a low fuel pressure error on my old Touran during a VCDS scan for another matter, it ran ok without obvious problems so I was advised to check all the 'quick and cheap' fixes before shelling out on expensive parts. Cleaned, and with error codes erased it ran ok afterwards and never returned.

I have an iV with front and rear Blackvue cameras. I had Blackvue cameras in my Yeti and Citigo and this camera system came out of the Citigo (DR750S-2CH). I don't have the battery/park monitor. Initially, I had a cunning plan to run the rear camera cable through the headlining but decided that wasn't going to be much easier than running low down. In the end, the front and rear camera cables ran down the A-pillar to a piggyback fuse in the main fusebox. Lead to the rear camera then went down the nearside of the car and slipped under the plastic door sill cover all the way back. Then up behind the trim by the rear seat and into the C-pillar cover. Using a long cable-tie as a puller, the cable eventually went through the left wiring 'grommet' up into the tailgate and thence to the camera. The camera is mounted on the right hand side of the high level brake light and works perfectly - and can't be seen in the rear view mirror. I've not had any problems with the cameras working or the cameras causing any issues with the rest of the car.

Crazy eh? I found a set of front and then rears on ebay and paid about £40 total

But you're (purposefully?) missing the point that they are dual use. Therefore, they will be classed as either a fog lamp or cornering lamp depending how it is being used at that point in time. If someone is sitting waiting to reverse into a drive, although it's the same light source/fixture as the fog lamp, for that manoeuvre it's technically a cornering lamp so completely fine in the eyes of the Police and highway code. Although the highway code doesn't mention cornering lamps, that doesn't mean they can't be used. It might look, swim and quack like a fog lamp, but rightly or wrongly, it's a cornering lamp when used as such... I'm not trying to persuade you they are a good idea, suitable for use or even to like them, only that given the current (mess?) of regulations, they are perfectly legal to use on UK roads. If they weren't, then I would expect to see people getting prosecuted for their use and then taking action against the manufactures. It's like the situation around dual use sidelight/DRL lamps. Plenty of MK2 FL vRS owners had MOT issues as both functions were combined into the LED strip despite them working correctly. It is either a DRL or sidelight depending how it's being used, it's more obvious as the brightness changed but a similar issue where one lamp performs multiple functions and causes confusion 👍 Agreed, nor do I expect them to any time soon.

Turn the light switch to “Off” in those situations then (parked on a lit highway). The CH/LH lights don’t operate when the switch is at “Off”, only “Auto”.

The Obvious issue for those in the UK with Fog Lights that come on when just entering or exiting cars is that you can be parked on Public Roads and then having these un-necessary lights coming on and other road users seeing these,. It is like the 'Front Fog lights' coming on automatically as reverse is selected. It is a pity that the UK's Highway code and the use of fog lights does not mean anything to Manufactures and Construction & Use.

Looks like my Kamiq was on that train after all. I've got call from my dealer yesterday that I can pick up car on Monday. 😃 Six and a half months waiting time, like famous quote from Chernobyl series: "Not great, not terrible". Now I just have to get rid of my old piece of junk. I mean: to sell my old Opel Astra. 🙂 And I also really wish you all to get your cars soon. 🙂

I forgot to say when replacing the ARB bushes stick some Castrol red rubber grease on them. It helps with making them last a bit longer.

I picked up my Superb this afternoon. Very happy with it so far. It has 77,000 miles on it, so I had dealer do the timing belt, service and four new tyres. Was happy with the Michelin’s they put on it! My first mods will be to replace all the front lights with ‘whiter’ bulbs, and get mud flaps fitted all round.

i will chip in, almost 4 years old, 30k miles, 1.5 TSI edition 2018 reg Small stuff Issue 1: Top dashboard storage compartment lid gets stuck Issue 2: Seat Belt (front passenger) not retracting, intermittent issue Issue 3: Globe box lid gets stuck sometimes Big stuff Issue 4: Central locking Central locking keeps locking and unlocking by itself. Key is not detected scenario 1 - key left inside for a minutes and car locks itself Key is not detected scenario 2 - car is locked, key does not open it, use manual entry and it sets off car alarm despite key opening the car door, Comfort access doesn't work sometimes, have to take key out and unlock the car Ignition does not start - get into car okay, press start button it doesn't start the car, press remote unlock button and they try again and it starts

Something must give, like lack of grip / traction / friction and basically the vehicle being a ditch finder but maybe not quite as bad at 40mph. I would rather be charging 50 miles sooner than driving something with crap braking because of crap tyres.