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Just been informed car has been released and in transit from factory. Ordered in June 21 and built week 9 this year. Will have a couple of beers tonight to celebrate, been a long wait.

told today car should be at the dealer by the 22 july or a bit earlier.

Your trousers are too tight and you’ve operated the lock button on the remote Other than that I would check the wiring in the door bellows from A pillar to door for damage.

Unless he's a time traveller!

I'm going back to a mark 7 Golf GTI. I had one before and loved it, as did my wife. Our toddler daughter no longer requires half of the contents of our house when travelling so the tardis boot is never full anymore! I will miss the ability to look at almost any object and say, "Yes. That will fit in the car!"

It seems that my tale differs from the norm here. Ordered an SE Estate in March of this year with a couple of extras and the dealer rang last week to inform that it's been built and is waiting to be shipped. Was originally given an ETA of 30 weeks (November) when ordered. They've said it should be ready to pick up at some point this month! I was honestly preparing for next year at the earliest when reading these forums so it's quite the surprise. Here's hoping this is a sign of things picking up for others who have been waiting a while.

It was the battery, it wouldn't hold charge, replaced, probs have not returned! The original voltage first thing was12.3 volts, tells its own story! So, based on my experience , any warning lights on the dash, start by looking at the battery voltage/state of charge! Then move on to other causes.

Have you any loose items pushing on the rocker switch by the handbrake?

I've got AC 🙂. It was low on gas and also the old module was faulty. I got no more errors.

Unfortunately, I can have it confirmed 😞 Unrationally behavior of the touch screen are usually result of either faulty touch panel or front board, I have NEVER met a case of such issues related to SW 😞

You were right, all my inlet valves in all cylinders are bent. The exhaust valves are fine though. I've bough this week a quality borescope which has dual cameras one pointing sideways. With this lateral camera I can see very well all valves and inlet ones are all opened and bent. Since the bending happened while I was cranking the engine with no combustion in the cylinders I am hoping the damage is not too severe. If a buy a timing chain kit and a full set of valves would this be enough for a garage to repair my engine?

Interesting afternoon. Red Bull completely unable to run at LeClercs pace at one of Max' favourite tracks. Did he pass him 3 times or 4? Stewarding getting really intrusive in some cases though. I mean, fining all the podium trio? endless track limits policing? penalties for daring to race other drivers? Nanny-state rubbish.

Dear colleagues after 68 week my Škoda Octavia RS finally arrive. 🥳🥳🥂 pictures from the salon, waiting to be picked up:

discs obviously won’t stay black it’s just the anti rust coating from ebc

Having been piggy-backing on an Antipodean thread about a 1964 Skoda Octavia until now, I thought it only fair that I should start my own, and so I'll summarise what's happened with the car so far: I acquired the car in December 2020, from a guy in Kent, in whose family it had been since it was new. I bought it "sight unseen" and, while appreciating the risks this might involve, I had long conversations with the owner and felt comfortable with things, not least because the cars are so rare I'd be lucky to ever see another one! The car was delivered by transporter to a lock-up I'd rented in Whetstone, north London, exclusively for storing the car and I quickly realised what a great car I had! The boot was crammed with parts, the engine turned over happily and the bodywork looked pretty good. In addition, the previous owner handed me an ENORMOUS file, including the original bill of sale, numerous M.O.T.s and associated documents-brilliant! The boot contained the car's original number-plates, although the car sported a newer registration. The previous owner had already explained that the car had "slid off the radar" of the D.V.L.A. & so had received a new number. Fortunately I managed to re-register the car with its original number, with the assistance of the the Skoda Owners Club, and sort out another anomaly in the car's details at the same time-result! The entire process took less than a fortnight and, as this was over the Christmas and New Year festivities, I was most impressed with the speed of the service! All the engine needed was a battery & new plugs and I had it running in no time, albeit from a 5 litre can. Later I changed the fuel pump, to assist the fuel delivery, but there was (and still is!) a problem with the fuel line, but that's for another day! The car had no brakes at all, a fact of which I was aware, so progress up and down the road adjacent to the lock-up was, of necessity, limited. The intervention of more stringent Covid restrictions meant very little could be done for several months, and when I did have a chance to work on the car again, the starter motor had failed! To describe the removal of the starter motor from a Skoda Octavia as "difficult" would be an understatement of a magnitude unimaginable! Oddly, there's a trailer for a new series of "Bangers and Cash Restorations" on T.V. at the moment, in which a restoration mechanic says that it's possible to spend 4 hours just undoing one nut........I know how he feels! The starter is held in by two 17mm nuts, one of which it's just possible to get at, with the aid of extreme dexterity. The other one-forget it! The workshop manual says 2 specific spanners are needed and lists the part numbers......some hope! No-one had them, or had even heard of them. But this morning, I "bit the bullet" and e-v-e-n-t-u-a-l-l-y I removed it! I suspect the right-hand drive cars had several design problems, not least being the removal of said starter motor. I removed the gearbox link from the steering column, the metal heater pipe linking the front lower hose to the heater matrix, the vacuum pipe from the carburettor to the distributor and this allowed me to get a 17mm spanner onto the inner nut, between the engine block and the starter motor. I "cracked" it and, once cracked, the 17mm socket slowly shifted it & the starter came free..... Removing it from the engine bay meant unscrewing the 4 nuts holding the down pipe to the exhaust manifold, and, once shifted, I extracted the starter motor. By now it was 3pm on a sunny Saturday, so I adjourned to a "local hostelry" for several "cold ones". On Monday I'll take the starter to Unit Exchange in Borehamwood, for a refurbish.

I don't care, do you have a problem with the cooling fans or not?

Sure - it was £102 from a main dealer - it's the entire assembly of rigid sections, damping volume and flexi hose - all the way from the MC to the slave. Not available in sections unfortunately. Cheers.

Looks like a lot of cracks though. I wouldn't want to drive on those.

Oh my goodness me! Parked in a lay-by on my road this afternoon. One of only a handful I've ever seen in the wild 😎: Gaz

Most of the MQB platform..including your cars brakes have two pins on each caliper..& under the rubber bellows..one pin has a plastic/rubber bush on it..this makes the fit very tight..the other pin without the bush allows for "tolerance" due to various factors.....& thus the bush absorbs the grease if the wrong grease is used..& thus the pin sticks & then the caliper sticks!!....Wrote off a new set of pads/discs that way!!!...So yeah feck Ceretec type greases!! Also I don't use copper grease or Ceretec on the pad backs/pad ears......they all calcify & fail or wash out too easily.....I only use Loctite LB8009 heavy duty....high temp, graphite grease, won't wash out, won't calcify, safe on stainless steel etc... Loctite LB 8009 - Google Shopping

Best bet would be to pay a PDR guy to do it, they can get some pretty magnificent dents out but often have years of experience to do so. Depends how you value your time etc.

So i've just received the same letter via Leaseplan namely, my vehicle is subject to recall 93O5 Speaking to a nice girl in the local Skoda garage in West Midlands, its not a job that can be done by any local dealership, it has to go to 1 of 2 (yep you read that right !), only 1 of 2 facilities in the UK, either Southgate (North London) or Cambridge !!!!!!!!! WTF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 🤯🤯🤯 So my car has just been booked in for the next available slot.........January 2023 !!!!!!!! What an absolute shambles of a company Rather than train the local garages they do nothing and just sit customers in a massive queue and sitting on a potential risk to what could be life threatening by the sounds of it for anyone inside the car !!!! To : Mr Andrew Ganney (Skoda UK Aftersales).......i trust you don't drive your own Skoda "tat" ????

Check after the engine hasn't run for a good while, take a note of the figure, then if you can get someone to start the car and note what the multimeter figure is at starting and after it measure with the engine (and alternator) running and note all three figures. Cheap digital multimeters tend to be a bit inaccurate and unreliable but the difference in figures should show what's needed.

Alternators on recent cars with start/stop are harder to check functionally, as they have their output voltage controlled by the battery management module, rather than locally. So the voltage may vary considerably depending on how much juice the 'management' is requesting from one minute to the next. Most likely the battery is feeling its age.

I am sure @pab567 will confirm, that the MST2_EU_SK_PQ_P03xxT has never been seen to be released in the wild. So therefore, no update is available or even same/earlier version.

So once I got the timing cover off it became obvious what the problem was. In addition to the exhaust balance shaft being seized and all the teeth having been ripped of the socket, it appears that whoever did the timing previously didn't align the marks properly. The timing chain was off by one tooth down on the crankshaft sprocket... That's the reason for the weird cam phase adjustment.... I'll upload some pics if I get the chance...

Hello Ron, welcome aboard Gaz

If the waterpump o-ring (item 23 in diagram) was not renewed/replaced when the new water pump was fitted, I'd say it's almost certainly that one that's leaking.

Photo 3 appears to show the piston crown broken off at the edge exposing the top piston ring, no decent garage would ever reassemble an engine with that. I would say that it needs 4 new pistons as well.

Very much more likely to be one or other of these coolant pipe/hose joints: O-ring seal in left hand circle between thermostat housing and plastic coolant pipe, flexible hose connection to the right of middle, and another o-ring seal on the far end of the rigid pipe into the water pump. If the thermostat housing has never been off, I think my top suspect would be the middle one, the connection to a flexible hose, not too sure where that goes to. A USB inspection camera may get in there and tell you exactly where it's originating.

Thanks for this link. I ordered these and they arrived the next day. FItted in seconds. I have to say they are OK. Not bad considering the price. Not the smoothest at the end of the travel and they give a bit of bounce if you let the tailgate up by itself. The pull-down force is a lot more acceptable now. It doesn't feel like I'm going to bend anything or break the mounting points. Still confused why there is such a variation in some sites stating 405N and a lot of others stating 460N for the same car. That's 110N difference. 460N struts now returned for a refund. Thanks for the help on this.

@pab567

Update.... It was the flexi hose causing the issue.... Once we took the hose assy off it we found it was partially blocked despite looking perfectly normal externally. Had to order the complete hose assy from a dealer but the clutch is now behaving perfectly. An expensive lesson! Thanks for the help from you all on here! Cheers!

Download link sent by PM

Given that the service manual specs grease (but not what kind), I'm not sure dry slide pins would be such a good idea... Thanks @fabdavrav I'll grab some of that and replace the grease when I'm next able to!

Thanks. I managed to find 0253 and updated the unit. Cheers

Ceratec & other greases are absorbed by the plastic/rubber "bush".....been there done that.. Only use the caliper manufactures (TRW) grease on the slide pins which is PFG110 trw pfg110 grease - Google Search

2017 Octavia VRS TFSI 230 Hatchback, Auto, in Quartz Grey (I think) - totally stock, had it about 3 weeks.

As per the suggestion from @MarkyG82also take a look at all the tyres for sawtoothing - that's been reported to be the cause of strange noises several times on here.

68 (sixty eight!!!) weeks Jerry!!! Outstanding patience sir. Enjoy

Have just had an email from my dealer confirming delivery of my new Octavia Estate to his premises . This car was ordered on 28 Aug 21. I will not be able to take delivery until Sept as I am abroad for the next 3 months .

After 15 months of waiting... Finally arrived Superb Sportline 206kw. Dad's family car

Fully pressurised is an interesting one. Garages are happy to throw gauges on and read a number off... doesnt mean the system has anywhere near the right amount of gas, pressure changes all the time based on lots of factors. The gas is measured in grams, if your car takes lets say 700g, if you were 100g down, the pressure gauges wouldnt look too different, but your AC wouldnt work. Really they need to pull the gas out and measure it with their machine.

Gti brakes going on, I ended up buying a brand new hub/knuckle for n/s as I wasn’t very confident in it due to the smack the donor had had on that side, better safe then sorry. Discs are arriving tomorrow

Have you check the gas level. It probably needs re-gas. I have the same issue in my wife's 2000 Megane Coupe. It has somewhere a slight leak and it need re-gassing every summer.

Fixed that for ya...

I see they are overnight stopping 1/2 mile from me, now if it were proper rally cars I'd go and have a look but a load of milk floats doesn't warrant the shoe leather

Something is amiss. Don't be concerned about ECU history with a scanner as the dealership will want to scan with their equipment. The towbar company will only have adjusted the settings required to do the job too. Going forward - the dealership will need to sort it sooner rather than later!

My 2013 Superb Estate 4 x 4 diesel Auto 140bhp, has averaged just over 40mpg in the 9 years I have had it which I dont think is too bad for a big car. The maxidot has been15% above the tank to tank figure. Best 'real time' mpg I have averaged across a tank full is 47mpg.

I have the same rust issue on my 2011 Roomster, disappointing as there was no rust on the 2008 Roomster that it replaced. I would think that mechanically removing the tailgate wouldn’t be an issue however in theory the wiring would need to be removed from the old tailgate before it is removed from the car and put into the replacement tailgate. However, I would be tempted to cut the loom between the main body and the tailgate and either crimp the wires back together or use a repair kit. Given the age of the car unless the loom has been repaired it is likely that the loom is damaged at that point any way.