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Absolutely, depending on where you live and how much you NEED to drive in adverse conditions, I would say there are 2 options. 1. A full set of winters either on a second set of wheels or swapping the tyres each season, not a good idea over time. Repeatedly removing/refitting tyres will damage the bead. 2. Run all season tyres all year round, such as the Michelin Cross Climate 2, even down here in Dorset there are the odd occasions where untreated roads become slippery. Plus I find the CC’s better in the rain and quieter in terms of road noise. Yes I appreciate there will be a slight offset in performance in the height of summer if you are determined to drive hard and fast, fortunately I am not of that ilk!

Welcome. I think you were fleeced. But you now have some sort of warranty because you paid them, but they want to just replace parts. There is an issue here that you are in the hands of them, their Master Technician, or techs or fitters. Not a good thing sometimes with DSG's. ? Did Doncaster Skoda even do the job you paid for or contract it out to AN Other? ( A main dealer is not what is required right now it is an Auto Specialist with the experience and equipment required to work on your DQ200.) ** Can you find a trusted Auto Specialist you can go see and discuss with what has been done, they can plug in, read the Codes or not, road test the car and advise.** You missed saying how many miles covered. You might have needed new Clutch Packs. You might have needed fork selectors you might still need fork selectors. There are risks. To your pocket and life and others in the car so have it dealt with. Losing drive on the road, in an outside lane as an example. ( Not important now, but i am nosy, so, Was your DQ200 in since 2014 for Service Campaign '34F7' which was to change the Synthetic Oil to mineral and do a software update? There should be a sticker in the spare tyre well showing '34F7' and who did it and when.) You might need a MCU, but maybe you can have your MCU refurbished / upgraded if that is the issue. New ones are not improved over what is fitted, they are like for like. The issues / faults / failures are the same if a 1.2, 1.4 or 1.8 petrol or a 1.6 TDI, 2009-2012, (then issues 2012-2015. 'Service Campaign' '34H5 applies to them.) ..................... My pals sad tale. This was a 2012 Dq200 though. There are similar stories right through the past decade. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/444617-7sp-dq200-dsg-failure http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/470361-mk2-fabia-vrs-gearbox-problems http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/478695-dsg-issues

Soak it in a releasing agent. Bit of heat might help? Can you force a 'wrong' sized marginally smaller spanner on it? A BSW or AF perhaps? Stillsons, or a self tightening wrench? Could you file it to accept two sides of an open ended spanner? Weld a good nut on to it? Hammer and chisel to shock it around anti-clockwise? Grind the entire head off, and then replace it? Gaz

On snow/ice 2 WD on winter tyres beats 4 WD on 'normal' tyres every day. tom

The guy is correct about the alternator pausing charging, in normal operation the battery only ever gets charged to around 80% to save room to harvest energy when coasting or braking from the alternator. Another reason why I don’t really rate the device you have fitted, it doesn’t give you much room to play with once the dash cam has sapped all the usable capacity and then the car may sit for a few days etc etc. factor in some bad weather and a tired battery and you’ve got yourself a non starter I can’t remember from memory what that voltage is likely to be and it may also depend on whether you have an EFB or AGM battery. I know some have monitored it and it has been discussed so somebody will know I would get yourself a new battery and try out the new 12.5v cut out voltage and you will more than likely be golden

Thick fog descended this evening, but strangely cleared within the hour. Made for a pretty atmospheric walk!

A few from Attenborough nature reserve (yesterday). Was intrigued by the variation in sizes of the Robins - old/young, male/female, fat/thin?

So after over a year of waiting, my vRS Tdi estate is at the dealer 😂 I was initially told it would arrive in May, but Jan 24 is when it’s getting delivered !

The original pump is 1k6 955 651. The eBay replacement quoted the same number so should be the right one for £8. I did find the old pump could be disassembled easier, the cylinder on the side could be pulled off, rubber O rings sealed the connection pipes. (The new unit is all glued) Then I could split the cylinder where an internal seal was leaking causing the initial problem. Wrapped a bit of PTFE tape around it, pressed everything back together and it seems pretty water tight.

Hi To answer the direct question about the starting issue, there is likely to be both a crankshaft position sensor and a camshaft position sensor. If the ECU doesn't get a sensible signal from the crank sensor the engine won't start. Some engines can run (possibly in limp mode) without a sensible signal from the camshaft position sensor. The fault codes will pinpoint which sensor is at fault. Sometimes the sensor is OK but its alignment is off, a millimetre or so can make a difference. These sensors aren't overly expensive. However: VAG must have produced thousands and thousands of 1.8 20 Valve EA113 Turbo engines in the late '90s for the likes of the Audi A3 and the Audi TT, with powers from 150 HP all the way up to 240 HP. They were very successful and have a reputation for strength and high mileage reliability. Presumably to meet ever-tightening emissions standards, VAG produced a completely new design of 1.8 TSi engine (Type EA888 Generation 1) from 2007 onwards, which was revised in 2009 (Gen 2) and fitted to the Yeti. Unfortunately this turned out to be a step backwards in reliability, and the Yeti 1.8 TSi engine has a reputation for consuming large amounts of oil due to piston/ring issues, which is a much more serious proposition than replacing a sensor or two. It seems to be pot luck whether the engine suffers or not. In 2011 the design was revised again (Gen 3), I don't know how successful this was at solving the oil problem. The car you are looking at likely has the Gen 2 engine.

Me too, I love a good old post-mortem. There are some rubbish parts out there.

Thing is, the 1.8 tsi engine is a lemon and plagued with faults and simply won’t keep ticking till you get bored with the car. This is well worth a read…

Can you mix and match parts to get a working one out of the three you have?

I cannot answer the DSG questions very well at this point, not a mechanic (unless weekends count) I do have access to TPI documents, like for example the “34F7 Recall” @toot mentioned, but don't have them all (there are probably in excess of 10,000 easily across the VAG range) But due to my line of work, I do have a few people up and down the Country that might be able to help, but being close to Xmas, they are busy and not responding to messages in a hurry. Unless your mechatronic completely loses the plot, you should still keep some kind of drive, but for how long that is an unknown sadly. Without a scan/live data readings of the gearbox it's hard to say what it is going on. Are there any clues on the receipt you got for the clutch packs?

Take care. The flashing spanner was more an issue with the late 2012 DQ200 that were not part of the 2st Service campaign. And built before those covered by the 2nd one. Hopefully someone can direct you to a good Auto Specialist. It is a minefield.

In the end, i found the OEM parts that needed: 1) Grommet Škoda - 5E9 971 829 A 2) Camera Washer Line Škoda - 5E9 955 663 A Good luck to those who will try to retrofit!

As the supplier has refunded and doesn't want the pumps returned, I've started to dismantle one to see what's wrong. I'm that sort of person. The vent hole is in the motor section and water has got past the impeller section into the motor. Clearly the seal is not fit for purpose and even if it didn't leak to the outside, the motor would eventually fail.

There are a lot of questions to be read/answered that I am lacking in time for at the moment. Sadly without knowing exactly what the dealer has done step-by-step it's hard to say too much, also they won't likely give you the fault codes. There's every chance they just said to replace the clutch plates (I doubt at 56k they would need changing, but they may have been worn out premature due to a long standing fault) because the computer GFF (Guided Fault Finding) went through some tests and declared the fault lies with the plates. Now they have done more digging (why this was not done at the time...) and now they say the fault is with mechatronics unit. With GFF, they may have been guided into a few test routines (sometimes poorly written) that said measure the plate thickness, and then tells them to change plates. Now going through the same test plan they get a new answer when they input the plates are new/ x mm, saying the fault must be in mechatronic. You and I will never know as they won't tell you what they did, or I find it highly unlikely (data protect guff or secrets destined for the VAG black hole) If you knew the fault code present before clutch replacement, then that would have been brilliant.

It's because when they start showing the flaws, they will loose access to cars, and probably some advert income. Simple as that

It'll be a seized fan Mac ... Had it on ours a few years ago before we got rid. Easy fix though as the fan and motor drop out no issue in the passenger footwell. A bit of WD40 and then a squirt of spray grease and it should free up ok

Agreed. I miss those days as it was a very sociable forum back then. Sad times, but we’re all gonna end up here eventually 😞 Still clinging on to my Fabia with gritted teeth

I also have a 2018 1.4 TSI, with 30,000 miles. My Haldex gauze filter was roughly 80% clogged when I had it cleaned last year. I paid the main dealer a little extra labour to remove and clean it. I had the spark plugs replaced this year, all under a good value service plan purchased during a Black Friday special offer. If you're going to go to the effort of removing and examining 4 year old spark plugs then for less than £100 just put new ones in - is my thought. Even factoring in next years cambelt change I spend roughly £300 a year on main dealer servicing. On a £30,000 car I deem that reasonable and not worth the hassle of missing service items or trying to save a few quid by taking it elsewhere. I'm lucky in that the main dealer I use are as good at aftersales service as they are when trying to sell new customers new cars.

From what I remember when I fitted mine, it clipped in fairly easily. It might require a bit of elbow grease, but don't force anything too much! Check and make sure there's no gunk or debris in the slots.

The Winter tyres are the key to how good it was on ice then. ? What have you got on?

Having the dashcam sapping power is probably one of the reasons why your tired battery is causing issues, have you tried disabling the feature where it continues to run on or disconnecting it to see if your battery starts coping better? Would be interesting to know what voltage your camera cuts out at, i'm willing to bet its probably a lot lower than is ideal. For reference I had to replace an AGM battery on our Ford at 5 years old. It was starting the car fine but it wasn't letting us power up the front heated windscreen

Why don't you turn the box off until you next need to use the car (at least 24 hrs) and see if that makes any difference?

So here's my dirty beast. Managed almost 100 miles from picking it up before a journey to Germany and the snow. Performed awesomely with temperatures down to -14.5c Just needs a good wash as a Christmas present

Went to Halfords, after dismantling my glove box because the little switch thing that allows it to drop down away from the fuse box doesn't work, I wonder if this was caused by halfords when they did the install, who knows, could have always been that way. Anyway after removing the glove box still couldn't see where the magic pro was installed, so another guy came out and said it's probably in the passenger door under the trim, to which point the guy said oh I was looking for a battery??! Anyway he lifted off the trim on the passenger side and there was the box, hanging free, inside the dash / passenger side. Checked to see that the light goes off when ignition goes off which it does, so that ruled out. Noticed it's set to kill the power when it drops to 12v, I said I would like that changed so it's 12.5v, which was then met with well...you know.... I wouldn't do that because it could cut off the camera while driving if you battery is knacker, the alternator may pause the battery charging when you are breaking etc and it could drop below 12.5v and cut the camera out while driving. I'm starting think he doesn't know what he is talking about, he already spent 10 minutes thinking a magic pro, was a battery backup. The camera is powered by car battery when you switch the car on, when you switch the car off, the camera goes into a parking mode and it is at this point the magic pro is checking voltage drop and disabling the camera if it goes below either of the limits you can set it. Anyway he made the change and repeated his warning, then put the cover on. I said to him the magic pro is suppose to be installed within driver reach so I can switch the device on or off to make it easy to disable. His answer was, well all you need is a credit card and you can just pop the side of the dash off and then access the box and switch it off, there is nothing holding the side paneling in apart from clips slide a credit card in and it won't scratch anything. This I found ridiculous workaround for something that has been installed in the wrong place, I will write to halfords about that, the staff are idiots. Anyway, I'm trying the setting out on 12.5v now, I noticed that as soon as I turned the ignition off the blackvue camera went off, because battery was low, I think the blackvue magic pro is installed correctly and doing what it should when it should and I actually have by the sounds of it a battery that is on the way out, since the battery ran flat i've not been able to get the start and stop to become active despite putting some miles on, so that I guess is a tell tale sign, so I think give till after xmas if things don't improve after a few more drives it's new battery time. The link that was posted on here for the bosch battery is probably the best and a great price!, so thanks for everyone's help on here.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It's been to minus 13, and I think lower, here before and we are well sheltered normally, just up the road second highest UK temperature at 40.2c this summer. We're at about 120m and town centre river is about 60m so a bit more exposed and blowy up where we are. It's not just the paying for the water it's the paying to transport it, water is heavy and bulky, but then some pay for it in plastic bottles when they can drink it out of taps in their homes.

Thanks, Carlston, for taking the time to type all that. Useful info & gives me lots to think about. I hadn't realised that the 110 had bigger front brakes than the 95.

if you're planning on working on your car (servicing, upgrading parts or general 'fiddling about') then getting a ross tech lead for VCDS or the equivalent OBD eleven type tool, it may be worth it. If you're just wanting to give the car a once over, make sure it's OK and that's about it, you may be better checking the VCDS Owners page and ask someone on there to assist you.

This is part of the confusion, Skoda quoting a time interval or a mileage, but not really saying which is better. Something like a Haldex with moving fluid is logically the earlier of the two. But spark plugs, who would change them at 10k miles if that was the mileage at 4th birthday. The schedule is not appropriate unless you do the mileage quoted in tiny print at the bottom of the schedule, any other mileage and it isn’t really ideal Would be much better if they put something like every 40k miles, or 5th year if occurs before 40k miles. As for cam belt, on a low mileage car, unless is is looking frayed at edge or glassy underneath, I would comfortably go a sixth year. (Glassy look means rubber is getting hard, hard rubber could snap)

Thanks, I was busy today, that allowed me to put the part number in and check for supersessions, so it seems there has been. @billwin So the "new" pump part should be 1K6 955 651 plenty out there on eBay/Amazon etc Price seen here is at the dealers, so best avoid and locate one youself.

thank you for the verification

Ah ok. Now i get what you mean. Yeah i can have a go on that.

I might make you feel a little sick, as the price for the parts has no discount, and here it is https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/0am198142l?supplier[0]=6 Not my intention, but to show that you have some wiggle room. As the part fitted could have been discounted, as they make money just to sell the part that LUK/Sachs make. You have a few ways you can play this, take the car back to them once they get the mechatronics, and you should argue for a strong discount due to replacing parts not needed. I wouldn't blame them too hard for the diagnosis, as they may have had no choice but to follow the GFF sequence that led them to the "replace clutch pack" and the TPI combination. As you can see the part could be had from elsewhere for much cheaper. If you have had your fill of the main dealers, then I know an independant workshop in Doncaster, a VAG master tech (for Audi) with over 20 years experience, PM if you wish to head down that road.

Did you not mean to say TCS ( traction control )? If ABS was working ovetime and doing it's job, you'd probably have ended up in a ditch in those conditions.

I don’t have ACC. The Red Horror braking can still happen.

The 'Traffic Calming' humps (AKA Earth low-orbit launch ramp) in the exit from The Democratic Republic of Merton recycling and refuse centre are so steep that speed more than 2 MPH risks putting the front struts through the hood!

I hope a Private Hire Car / Taxi gets serviced and maintained by a proper mechanic and has regular inspections. The suspension might well be sagged, and springs do break. Quite often when 'traffic calming measures, Speed reduction measures, AKA as Sleeping Policeman are driven at without care and attention or reducing speed. In the 'Good old days' you used to get Taxi versions of the likes of a Ford Sierra Estate or Granada. Harder Wearing interior, heavy duty suspension. My dad used to buy those as a tow car. I had Peugeot 504,s because a local Taxi firm ran a fleet of them, had a garage and parts. As it turns out they were good enough for the Taliban.

just under 22 years old and i can honestly say only rust i had to deal with was that known spot right below the rear number plate lights.

@ApertureSor @varooom might be able to comment.

Errr… how does the rake or size of the windscreen affect the seating space in the cabin? A greater rake angle will reduce the headroom, nothing else. Although the Passat is 9.6cm shorter, more importantly, its wheelbase is 13.2cm less than the Superb. That’s how they squeeze so much space in the cabin.

Charge cooler!

Must be a faulty batch of pumps.

Molegrips?

In most cases no extra labor cost is added, so usually people do both. Exception is if the car is on low mileage.

18" wheels and tyres are less comfortable as the sidewalls on the tyres are smaller, therefore less compliant. I went the other way, took 17" off and fitted 16", much more comfortable and less prone to damaging wheels in potholes. This all assuming you fit the correct tyres to keep your speedo correct.

@promomast YET 1 Owned by @BossFox i think. I seem to remember an issue with a Dealerships Yeti sitting with a Show plate or out on the road with YETI.

One tip is that when the auto start - stop kicks in just wiggle the steering wheel to restart the engine. This is better (and smoother) than restarting the engine by depressing the accelerator. The car tends to want to ‘rush off’ when using the accelerator to restart.