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Hello Neil A proper spare wheel is probably the best first thing you could acquire 👍 Hopefully you'll never need it, but you'll be glad of it if ever you do. I can only remember needing a spare perhaps twice in 40+ years of driving, but both times I'd have been marooned if all I had was a can of gunk and a pump to rely on. Gaz

Get it carefully visually inspected at 5 years and consider replacing at 6 - again depending on inspection.

It depends on how much you want to believe Skoda UK over the rest of the VAG empire, and what your personal level of risk avoidance is. I took the decision to have the cambelt changed after 5 years following an early experience with cambelt failure on a Vauxhall Corsa GSi 16V just 1 week after a dealer had replaced the cambelt but not the tensioner which led to catastrophic head & valve damage requiring a replacement head - this was covered by an extended warranty so the cost to me was zero (they even paid for a hire car).

Not a stop / start battery, but I have had my S5008 096 fitted in the Octavia since November 2011...... Not good for them if they are regularly allowed to remain low on charge... In the really cold weather I put a trickle charge on it every now and then.

@mrdomskoda If you do need to secure the little dash cam box, I recommend some 3M Double-Sided sticky tape VHB (very high bond) Can be found on Fleabay/Amazon etc, once that stuff goes "off" after about 24hrs, it almost needs a chisel to remove.

Same here, Gaz, re number of times it's actually happened to me - I just I didn't fancy being stuck on a motorway in the poring rain, removing valve stems, reading instructions and then discovering that the damage to the tyre meant I couldn't use the gunk anway!

Basically, the door cavity is a sealed chamber, if there was an impact on the door the pressure increases and this is picked up by the sensor, So yes, you can add additonal bits, but they need to be sealed to the door and air tight.

Exactly as @skomaz has said, years are not applicable.

They do look good in the snow. 👍

Hi all and happy Xmas I've put a deposit down on a 68plate Sportline plus 4x4 TDI. Not driven it yet but looking forward to it being moved over to my local dealership. Any members have one of these and any idea or real world mpg figures? thanks

IF you read the thread you will see that this dashcam is powered from a device that has a permanent live as well as switched and uses the cars battery capacity when the car is off until a preset voltage is met. There is absolutely no question that the dash cam was causing this situation being set at 12V which is way too low.

wiring, I have labelled where the Fuse feeds go / come from

On a mk1 Fabia there's a non-obvious fuse failure that causes this. I'm not sure what number the equivalent is on mk2, but I'd be surprised if there isn't one, as mk1 and early mk2 electrics are very similar. Check all the cabin ones yourself, after taking photos of where they all are before touching any. Then check them one by one.

Thanks very much for the help. I’ll try a new one to the newer number

Haldex should have oil changed and pump filter cleaned at 3rd service. Skoda dealers will only change the Haldex oil but for the job to be done correctly the pump filter needs cleaned. Picture shows pump filter at around 20k and why it should be cleaned.

Receveid the screen Today. Plug and play and can go too the navigationscreen by the menu.

You mention the car is a VRS but not which model year. The engine code is also relevant. Update: I see from the thread title it's a 2010, but the engine code is still relevant.

Nearly there then....I may however eat my (your) KitKat before I get back to Blighty....

I believe you're looking for 4H0 973 703; there are a number listed on fleabay. To confirm you can see the original Skoda part HERE or an aftermarket part with attached leads HERE.

It's a while since I did this and a couple of cars back but as I recall I identified the earth lead from the sidelight (Brown, according to the diagram and commoned with the main beam - object #30 near the bottom of the diagram) and followed it back to an earthing point on the body (E2 IIRC). The point was OK but showed some signs of corrosion so I gave it and the connector a good scrub and reassembled with Vaseline. My thinking at the time was that the sidelight bulb being only a low current draw could be more susceptible to built-up resistance due to corrosion that would a headlamp drawing several amps - hence the intermittent problem on sidelight only. I didn't look for any empirical evidence (resistance etc.) so it remains "my theory, which is ..." BTW wiring diagrams compliments of Mr Haynes.

Thanks again, that's all very helpful

Its TSi

Hope this helps, here is the part code for the 10 changes made to the orginally fitted EGR cooler (yes they are that bad) 03L 131 512 DQ Use this code to look on the likes of FleaBay to find yourself one, or go with the one you linked to if you prefer I did find a used one for under £50, though it might need a damn good clean, or could be faulty (luck of FleaBay there)

Having been accustomed to two 29 year old Toyotas (which I still have) and weekend toys which, in the past, included 2 Caterham 7s and an Elise S1 (all now sadly gone) - I have just acquired a 2015 Rapid 1.4TSi DSG with just 26k on the clock to comply with the new ULEZ zone extension which is coming in next year. I'm pretty impressed so far, albeit the Owners Manual has managed to fox me a few times! Before I joined I had already found very useful stuff from this site. Anyway - hello! Only thing of significance I have acquired so far is a proper spare wheel - which just proves what an old codger I am 🤣

Quickest answer I can give is you must have a working EGR to do a DPF regen. Those temps are low, need to be over 500°C, max 700°C (it uses the EGR to help the temps, why it is needed) CAYC is your engine code for sure.

Christmas clean! It was absolutely filthy before!

Link for MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T sent via PM to both

I have coded the cornering lights, changed the signals bulb with LED's. My car has 4000 km, I went to the dealership and they said that it does not affect the warranty as long as there is that module on the car and there is no physical modification. They have no way of knowing if the car had cornering lights or not. They don't check for that.

Probably worth checking wether your car has outstanding TPIs for software updates, as most of the software faults across the car have been ironed out now

Hi again😬 This morning ı solved the problem. All problems about multimedia system. Making hard reset with pushing ten secnond on/off button in front of multimedia screen . Thanks.

This has always been a confusing area for 1.4TSI owners in the UK, the advice from VAG in other countries and official documentation is somewhat contradicted by the advice of Skoda UK that the timing belt should be replaced after 5 years. There seems to be no logic to this advice from Skoda UK since the UK does not fall into any category of extreme environment, so the feeling that it is no more than an attempt to generate work for UK Skoda dealers is hard not to give some credence to. There has been much heated discussion on this subject on briskoda over the years - I owned a 2015 1.4TSI from 2016 until 2021 and took the decision to have the cambelt changed in 2020 (partly so my ex couldn't accuse me of passing to her an improperly maintained vehicle).

I intend keeping the car a while longer,glad there's nothing to do,thanks.

No. Because it is a DQ200 DSG, 7 speed twin dry clutch. It has 2 oils, in the box and in the MCU and there is no Schedule, guidelines or recommendations for oil changes.

Nope no mention of years anywhere.

You do not know that, I concur with what ApertureS says. Many lower priority fault codes have a frequency counter if the fault appears to "heal up", if the fault is not logged again within a certain number of engine starts it ceases to be an active fault code and any MIL will be extinguished, an example might be a blown bulb that was replaced and the fault code not erased, a wire chafing against chassis earth which was either relocated or insulated etc.

Not sure about the exact spec you are looking for, but from previous experience, you will find used car sales staff rarely have your interest at heart, only their own. As I mentioned previously on another thread on a similar vein, I took a gamble with a certain competitor to "Gazoo" as you mentioned. It worked out well for me but I was ready to hand the car back within the "cooling off" period at the first sign of any serious trouble. In my very humble opinion, your best bet would be to keep shopping around, try and view the car in person if possible and don't be afraid to hand it back if something really plays up or just walk away if it seems too good to be true.

On a DSG auto hold is automatically de-activated when you put it into neutral, and should come back on when moved out of neutral. This catches some people out as when you release the foot brake the car will freely roll if still in 'N' when they think auto hold is still active. Just through it was worth trying if/when you get to see the car again. It does work a little differently with DSG compared to a manual.

There can be a small gain made by using 98 or 99 RON fuel - I usually see a few MPGs more when used, which I think balances the increased cost.

If you can keep the tinworm under control a car can last almost indefinitely simply replacing items as they eventually wear out.

2006 model here, 71,000 miles (just a young thing in comparison, but I'm in Scotland). Little scabby on the rear end of the driver's side sill, and at the arch where the bumper meets the arch on that side too. Nothing that a wire brush and a touch of paint can't sort when it's warmer.

At least you know where to look for that in the future. When stop/start doesn't work, or rarely does shut down engine.. battery is often near the end (but they can still work on for longer)

It should be more than 12v after resting several hours post charge and at room temperature, 12.1v equates to about 40% charge, however given that you have such a margin with a 720ah battery on the small engine that it will probably function OK, it will not have the same autonomy so will not take kindly to not being used for weeks at a time, it may only have days of autonomy and leaving the lights on for an hour when parked will probably kill it. That was my experience with a battery I brought back from the dead.

Took it off charge at 8pm last night. At 1pm today..... Lights: Camera...... Action: Came as a pleasant surprise 😎 Checked the levels, ran it up to temperature and let condensation out of the exhaust. Moved it (brakes let go quite easily) and remembered to leave the handbrake off this time 😁 Gaz

That's true. Interestingly head unit proves to be quite capable, if only given good enough speakers. Factory speakers in new Leon sound MUCH better, but there are 20cm speakers vs 15,5cm in O4. I have replaced speakers to Focal IS VW 165 and it sounds great.

I found this info. On my car it worked. I have basic led headlights. Cornering lights via fog lights activation: 09 - Adaptation - leuchte 12 NL L B45 - lichtfunction B 12 - abbiegelicht links 09 - Adaptation - leuchte 13 NL R B5 - lichtfunction B 13 - abbiegelicht rechts 09 - Adaptation - leuchte 16 BLK SL - lichtfunction B 16 - abbiegelicht links 09 - Adaptation - leuchte 17 BLK SR - lichtfunction B 17 - abbiegelicht rechts 09 - Adaptation - LWRKonfiguration - Static AFS light - ECE R119

Brightness is for both infotainment and virtual cockpit I believe. I drag down from the top of the screen to access the shortcut menu and there’s a brightness bar to adjust. Handy for day/night changes.

That’s a fairly widely commented Front Assist ‘thing’. Seems to be frost or dew causes the error until it clears after a few minutes driving. Road grime build up also can cause it. For the trip mileage I use the Long Term readings. They can be reset using either the steering wheel knobs or through the infotainment screen. Since Start can also be reset IIRC

As promised, here is a series of pics to illustrate the result of my 2-day detailing job these last days... After a quick clean to get rid of suicidal mosquitoes during a 800km drive... Overview of water-repellent effect of sealant Little mop yesterday This morning at work And the nicest (at least to me) this evening, on a sport shop car park Night pics are quite rare on this thread...

@Jamster330 I found another shop for mudflaps. https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/octavia-4/spare-parts/accessories/mud-flaps-157.html