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Taken at my first ever visit to a Goodwood Breakfast Meeting in April 2008. It was sunny when we left home. Then this happened. You can just about glimpse the paddock area in the background. This wasn't my car by the way.

At my local park:

Colourful sunset and clouds earlier this evening

I thought I'd chuck a few photos of my L&K in here as I have the Sportline Spoiler (in body colour) and black front grille/bumper trim (Plastidip), so it looks a bit more Sportline! Personally, I went for the 280 as, at the time, I wasn't paying for my fuel, and I couldn't be without the proper exhausts. I wanted as higher spec as I could find and the only option on mine is the reverse camera, I think (as at the time it wasn't standard), and AFS lighting. I believe someone had coded speed sign recognition, and all of the other stuff Is factory (keyless, 4x heated seats, canton, heated screen, etc.). It's a great car, and it maybe does rev a bit high on the motorway, but no major issue and the 6-speed has been generally good (I do prefer a proper auto, but that's obviously not an option here!). I sense you may be looking for a newer car than my "OG" '65 Plate car, but it's a good comparison either way.

I've had/got loads of battery chargers/conditioners, some quite expensive, and nothing brings a battery back like a basic, low current charger. The best one I've found for bringing them back is a cheap solar panel if you've got a lot of time on your hands. I normally start them off with a day on that, then move to a charger that's probably 10 years older than me, but that has a 1A shunt on it.

I believe it, everything on earth lasts for it's lifetime, no more and no less.

A few from Calke Abbey this afternoon - managed to dodge the rain

Its the connector for the injection loom.

Its the wiring that goes to the injectors inside. I had the same problem - oil leaking and ending up everywhere. I didn't want to move it any more than necessary so I loosened mine just enough to clean the joint properly and smear some high temp silicone around the flange using a toothpick I think. Still dry a year later. Fingers crossed.

As Root said, above, it's pre MQB. It's built on the Golf Mk5 platform. The engine is EA 288 so it's likely that VW Tiguan 184 TDI or Skoda Karoq 190 TDI turbo would be a fairly direct swap. Forgive me if I don't go out and start tearing our cars to bits to verify that. Darkside Developments would be the people to talk to. However, from my previous discussions with them, I can fairly confidently say you're not going to get much over 220 bhp without fitting bigger injectors. I'm currently at c. 185 bhp with a remap from Angel Tuning and it drives very well on that.

Yup, the L shaped bracket is where you attach clamp for negative charging clamp. So you can undo the nut and attach a permanent wire there for quick-release charge wire.

They’re trade only these days too and you can’t even view the cars. Have to rely on condition reports. All auctions are still fully only online too because you can’t attend a site which is a menace. Half the cars being we buy any car .com ones, I suppose they’re happy with it being trade only as are the trade. I’ve a friend that can bid for me. Thanks for above re battery power

Issue resolved! (fingers crossed) Took it back to dealer we bought car from 2 years ago. New SKF belt, tensioner and pump £200 all in. Old water pump sleeve had stuck open. I now realise there is a whole topic on this so sorry to duplicate. Thanks for all the help.

Anecdotal brand fairies aside, any correctly gapped iridium plug which meets that spec. will work nicely.

@wolverine5plEven if the belt was lifetime there is the very good observation in another thread this week. The tensioner / springs/ bearings are not. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/509743-thoughts-on-timing-belt-changes VW / Skoda UK or their contractors for Customer Services give the same answer year after year. Mk3 1.4 TSI / DSG. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/458348-timing-belt/page/3

NGK BKr7’s https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/home/119-ngk-bkr7eix-iridium-spark-plugs-2667.html

And when it does eventually fail, the engine most probably will be scrap 😒

Many engineers say that "life time" means until it fails, i.e. it says nothing about the actual length of time the item will work for.

Cant believe mine will be 8 years old this October ! Still zero interest of swapping it for anything else.

A picture from our New Years walk to Pen Y Fan in the Brecon Beacons National Park earlier today.

I have rusty nuts!!

I use a pv panel on my mx5 when it's laid up over winter it works and extends the period between needing charges but isn't quite up to covering the aftermarket immobiliser drain given the short daylight hours we have at the moment...

Let us have a nose then!

[drums fingers] 🍿

Hi guys. I know this is an old post but hopefully someone will find this helpful. I have a 2016 octavia and this happened to me for the first time. All very annoying. I couldn't get the solution to work as above, however this one did work. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/103034-drivers-seat-memory-not-working-fixed/ The only thing to note that I did different was. Ignition on. Move seat forward (when it stops press forward again and it may move another could of cms) Tilt front of seat down Lift back of seat up. When at max on both (hold the front of the switch down while holding the back of the switch up) Recheck a couple of times and hey presto a "bong". Then i could save seat positions again and it worked. Please note I didn't change the back rest at all. Good luck

My 110 was woefull even before I started towing stuff far too big and far too heavy for it, it felt quite nippy through the gears but I think that was down to the 6 speed box but whenever I tried to do a mid range overtake I often had brown trouser moments. After a remap it is finally the vehicle that it should have been.

A lot to be said for an isolated electrical backup that can be called in to help in an emergency. We carry spare tyres, a light lithium charging battery is worth carrying in winter I reckon, My brothers battery gave up at Collumpton service on NEw Years Eve eve. Called out service and got a new one fitted for less than £100. Sould wrong to me, a start stop battery should be EFB or AGM and a decent size and fitted, for less than a ton, I said he was a lucky man and send me the invoice as I suspect he has had a ordinary battery fitted rather than S/S tech.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Bit of a tangent but as my interest is more in over-priced and over-valued old cars called "classics" I used to follow this American chap's YT channel as he liked small British and other cars, and different vehicles, to actually drive and not as show queens, though how he ever gets time to drive, and sometimes race, all in his collection is beyond me. Installing Ultra-capacitor and Onboard Battery Charger in Sunbeam Tiger (British two-seater with Ford V8 engines put in by manufacturer) -

Think I have finally found an answer to the "why are Lithium batteries used for motorbikes but not cars" in this article...https://www.batteriesplus.com/blog/power/lithium-starting ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Will LiFePO4 Work as a Cranking Battery? The answer to this question largely depends on the application. If you are looking to use a lithium battery as a cranking battery in your car, truck, RV or boat then the answer is a resounding no. If you are looking for a battery for your motorcycle, jet ski or ATV, then yes, an X2Power LiFePO4 battery is a suitable choice for a starting battery ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I find the answer a bit weak as motorcycles can have quite large capacity and high compression/performance engines. I put a lithium battery in my little 350cc Yam R3 and it worked well and would like to do the same in my 700cc Yam Tracer. My Clio is only 898 cc, the Arkana is 1332 cc and the Zoe, ah that is pure electric 52 kWh. I think it is the Lithiums tend to have Battery Management systems and which limit the amps per second to about what the AH is ie to one C. 100 AH lithium battery, 100 Amp limit. Since one might need 600 or 700 Amps to start an engine when cold. There is our mis-match. Perhaps a Lithium battery would need a charge build up in an super capacitor before blasting the starter motor with several hundred amps. Think they might be using one here...

Think I meant very few cars have moved to lithium for their 12v batteries where bikes have much more. On a motorcycle on already has 4 gallons of petrol between you legs so a potential incendiary devices under ones bum is just a bit more of the same. The weight change in a bike is significant enough to show up in 0 to 60 a mbps and even in a car changing from lead to lithium can reduces kerb weight by about one percent so maybe a tenth quicker acceleration or a couple of miles more from a tankful. Finding lithium battery suppliers is hard. Irene to use Tayna for my battery supply.

Somebody built a really powerful Greenline 1.6 TDI and put details of all upgrades on here. It does detail intercooler used etc.

£200 is an excellent price

You should not be using matrix headlights on multi-lane roads, just like you wouldn't be using full beam.

I find 0.6MM gap to be optimal on these engines you can run the 0.8mm gap if running Audi R8 coil packs

Loads of decent ones out there, it is finding one. One with a replacement engine should not put you off. Loads never actually needed a new engine but did get one, they needed the right oil, capacity, spark plugs, super unleaded and a remap could help lots.

I appreciate the input from the forum. It’s hard enough trying to find the questions off the forum. Hopefully I will find or an enthusiast has a 2013/14 CTHE for sale for the right price. Just like the you tube Geordie owner states. Dealers wanting £9 to £10k is ridiculous. I could possibly push to £8000 for a private owned one. 2nd hand prices are high due to the pandemic. Hopefully someone will come along with a decent one one. I’m in Derbyshire if anyone has one for sale??

@travs I read in my GTI DSG handbook that you shouldn't move the DSG into neutral on the move.....after I had done it a few times.

+1, a modern car IS SOFTWARE, unless you can show me how to run the car without software, complete BS

He got the answer right away. Top line. The rest he can ignore after a week of asking if anyone was selling one. The info is all in the section, the pinned thread are at the top of the page, and all the stuff has been getting covered for 10 years. Maybe it is time that the stuff was summed up easily. The last video linked does that.

Great to listen to someone that knows about the cars, the details and drives & lives with them long term.

Members helped with this. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/426080-evo-magazine-buying-guide http://evo.co.uk/skoda/fabia-vrs ................. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/453390-buying-a-mk2-fabia-vrs http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/472431-fabia-vrs-mk2-cave-issues-and-tabs This was one of the last vRS registered in the UK. The Service Campaign was missed. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/432730-oil-leak http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/483018-gearbox-issue http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/503146-mechatronic-leaking These are linked in other threads, might as well go here as well. Not always factually correct info... Ex member.

They are all bad because they hide the true state of the engine from the ECU, risking overboost or excessive fuel rail pressure. Some might just be less bad than others. A remap means the ECU sees the exact state of the engine and can therefore maintain full control and stay within hardware limits.

VCDS, or any compatible engine code scanner/reader would be able to tell you if there was an electrical fault, or other - maybe in the glow plug circuit. Often just a pointer to further tests... Like I said I am only guessing, and you will need to research more. Glow plugs in situ, to a degree, can be tested with a multimetre. Plenty of videos on YouTube. Question is, what would you do if you found out that you have faulty glow plugs? Your vehicle has 220, 000 on clock. It can be a total pain job with some real horror stories if it goes wrong. If you are good mechanically, or can afford to go as deep as the rabbit hole takes you, then maybe but hmmmm. I mean mine had two not even working, and still started - rough idle though, diesel knock, and a risk of glow plug tip breaking off (maybe). And all this is speculation as I don't know for sure anyway. Maybe others have better experience or more accurate diagnosis.

That is exactly the part I am fitting. I was able to fit it to the battery on my Jazz by putting second nuts on the clamp bolts but I don't know if I will be able to do that with the Fabia. I do so few miles that the car can be sitting idle for a couple of weeks and the SMART charger keeps the battery lively.

So, first thing: JR RS is absolutely right. There are two Eibach Pro-Kits for the Superb, one for the liftback and one for the wagon, with the numbers as he says. I bought the wagon version (for my liftback), despite the retailer saying it was specifically for the lift back. So something to be aware of. The rear springs on the wagon version are 5mm higher than the front springs. However, that mistake turned out to be a blessing, at least for my tastes. (All subsequent measurements in my post are hub to guard) The Superb AWD standard ride height is 380mm, both front and rear. A major issue in my eyes is that the body shape design, when both front and rear ride heights are the same, has a very definite 'nose-down' stance and the back end of the vehicle looks like it's sticking up in the air. If you allow your eye to follow the bottom sill line between the front and rear wheels, it is not level with the ground, with a pronounced slant towards the front. This is a design aesthetic by the Skoda designers and it may not bother some people, but it is something I have never liked. I prefer a car to have a flatter stance. The front springs (F11-85-042-03-FA) in the Pro-Kit deliver a front height of 350mm. The rear springs from the Pro-Kit delivers also 350mm for the lift back or 355mm if you buy the wagon version. In my opinion, 350mm at the front is too aggressive. At least here in SA, crossing spoon drains and even getting up some ramps, it is very difficult to avoid scraping the front underside of the vehicle. I realise this is a personal view and many others may really like that ride height, and that's perfectly fine. I don't believe it fully suits this type of vehicle and it certainly has practicality issues. As I said earlier I also mixed this with wagon springs (on my liftback, because I made the mistake of buying the wrong set, d'oh!), so the rear was sitting at 355mm, and just further accentuating the nose-down, bum-up stance of the vehicle overall. However, I actually really like the rear ride height of the vehicle with those rear springs and I am glad I didn't get the correct kit, as I think 355mm (rather than 350mm) looks perfect. Again, personal opinion. After contacting Eibach Australia and discussing it, I resolved this by fitting revised front springs (F11-85-043-02-FA) which have been discussed in the forum here. I left the existing Eibach rear springs in place. This has raised the front to 370mm. The rear remains at 355mm. I am now happy with the result as it achieves two outcomes: first the front definitely has more clearance and is more practical to drive in everyday situations. Second it has removed the pronounced nose-down stance the vehicle had before and made it sit flatter overall (no more rear end sticking up). Handling changes are almost imperceptible at speed and slightly more compliant over speed humps at slow speed. The gap between tyre and guard is now slightly wider on the front compared to the rear which may play with some people's OCD. But as you can see from the pic above, you really have to be a train spotter to notice and I happily take that given the vehicle now sits flatter in stance overall. As MartiniB states above, you can order separately rather than as a kit, and in hindsight I would have done that from the start.

Recently changed yellow bulbs to white LED. Bought here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003157234648.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.dee71802Br4NIy Really easy installation and the result is nicely bright.

Contact these people, a lot of very good reports of these repairing the touchscreen issues on the Yeti lately. You can visit them to do the work or take the unit out yourself and post it to them. Don't even think about getting Skoda to replace the ststem. https://www.satnavsystems.com/diagnostics-repairs/

More than a year later on and 20k very tough miles towing overloaded removal trailers and everything is still fine and dandy with the clutch, no air drawn into the system.

Battery management system 'believers' will tell you "Yes, definitely, if you don't tell the car it has a new battery, the charge management system will get itself terribly confused and treat your new battery (in some unspecified way) as if it were the old one still." Personally, I think this is flawed logic, based on the belief that the charging system is cleverer than it really is. I find it hard to believe that the system charges the battery in different ways depending on how old or degraded it 'thinks' the battery is. Trouble is, few people outside a relevant engineering team at VW group probably know the whole truth. Not really in VW group's interests to publicise the details, nor to say "ah yeah, it's a very robust system, it'll work it out within a short time" even though that's probably true.