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In attempting to answer your oft repeated question this will sound more like psychoanalysis than anything Your 'fear of carbon build up on VAG engines' is likely due to use, or misuse, of the internet. Yes there are many references to this problem on the internet but if you actually look in more detail most originate from the US and most are pretty old. Well prior to the 1.4tsi's existence VW sold a direct injection engine in the US which had a very bad reputation for carbon build up. Strangely, similar engines sold in Europe had a much more expensive DI and multi-point injection which allowed the inlet valves to be 'washed' by the petrol from the multi-point injection system so was not regarded as an issue. Coming back to the 1.4tsi, you are probably frustrated by the lack of response to your question but this engine has been a workhorse for the group for a few years now and put in a number of vehicles and no one has responded because it is not a reported issue, certainly not in Briskoda. Trust me if it were a problem then it would be here. I'm not saying there is not build up, I am sure there is some but apparently no worse than any other vehicle on the road. The 1.4tsi is excellent in my experience (90k km, 8 years) and you could expand your search to include the 1.0tsi 3 cylinder engine which is also a very nice unit and seems to be remarkably reliable, frugal and offers reasonable performance despite the small capacity. Other options are to go with dual injection systems such as those found on the 2.0tsi gti's or more left field the recent Ford Focus 1.5Litre 3 cylinder which also had dual direct and multi injection.

I guess you can cancel the Priest and send in the mechanic now, nice find by those that helped you. 🤝

First place I would look as the dog bone mount under the engine.

Fetch a priest ASAP. To my untrained eye this doesn't look normal for the engine to move that much.

Just like to say a big “Thank You” to Breezey Pete for repairing my Skoda Roomster Window control unit. Absolute legend and a very fast turn around on the repair. Sent back to me within a day.

This is the item mentioned above. As it has approx 10 feet of cable it is generally very easy to locate in a sight of view. In the above scenario, 1 clip would be earthed with the other connected to the "wire of doom" then, when the ignition was switched to the starter position the bulb would light up if 12 volts was being sent to the solenoid.

Christ I just spat my coffee out!

Yes it should drop a gear moving the shifter into S when off the accelerator, so slowing down, or just rolling along in D and going back to S. Perfect for winter driving as no touching the brakes. It is how i drive any DSG, 6 or 7 speed wet clutch or 7 speed dry. It is how i boot the car sometimes, instead of a double kickdown, back to S then down a gear then kick down. Only if someone is up my jacksy. Maybe just ignore her about Autohold. As too manual 1st and changing up. Forcing the box to. DQ200's did this. & i used that for Sprinting, Hill Climbing, 1/4 Mile. Car held on hand brake not brake pedal, into manual and floor it and force shifts til 4th, then a knock across to D or do manual upshifts. This was faster than me changing, or being in S. Maybe no longer applicable, but it has been with wet and dry clutch over the years to save the DSG. Some do lock though and scream.

@TasMan| Just bolted on side

Hey, guys! Just an update from me - got my car in the local dealer to check the error and do the first service. They said they'd need to change the whole gear selector mechanism, which they didn't have in stock. So, they ordered it and I'm back in on the 25th of Jan to finish the job. Hopefully, it will hold up until then, as I've got some travelling to do by then... fingers crossed. On a side note - they told me they'd need to change the front diff oil. It has to be done every two years for the vRS. That's the first time I hear about it, but will do it. Just wondered if anyone had the same?

My Scala 1.5 DSG ordered mid-July arrived yesterday ! So a bit less than 5 months.

This works yes, BUT only if you are checking the fluid for water contamination at the reservoir AND at the calipers! Most places dunk the reservoir and call it a day.

@Breezy_Pete

Quick update on this: Contacted local Skoda dealer, and they happily took it in to have a look under warranty (never heard anything back from Arnold Clark). Turns out it needed the wheel bearing and ABS sensor replaced, which they did under warranty. Suggested it could've been caused by hitting a pothole (which we don't remember to cause that degree of damage), but all seems to be well since! Ironically, not long after Skoda called to say the car was repaired and ready to collect, Arnold Clark finally got back to our initial request for help saying it should be Skoda dealing with it under warranty 🙄

In did. Some things to do in the interior. Great engine, economy and ride.

Dog mount movement.mp4 Obviously knackered... Thanks for info on time and thus cost Guess it's extremely low revs until a garage can fit me in...

Agree with JR, looks gone to me, but I would put a big bar on the dog bone / engine and move it to see how open those cracks get. Either way, I would replace it. Reckon a decent Indy would only change for an hour, maybe. I did it in less than an hour in a proper workshop.

Dip it in clean fluid every now and again and if it says 0% then it’s OK. To go any further you would need calibrated test fluid. You also get a feel for how good it is after you have inserted it a few times and see how wet it is…😛

Hard to say if excessive because it's not something that we would normally see when driving, the cable gear linkage ensures that the movement is not transferred to the gear lever, I remember when most engines had double that movement just idling at tickover and where on taking up the drive on a MK1 Mini the long gearlever would hit the dashboard or on later versions with the solid remote it would be hammering its way up through the floorpan! Bush does look worn and is likely to be responsable for the vibration.

Check for air leaks in brake servo also common on the 1.2 tsi’s

What Porsche / VW Group advise might be different from a Porsche Executive / Technician will do with their own keeper. Bought and paid for by them. Additional expense having someone do it, or materials if you do. Cheap compared to failure. recovery etc. If you have a keeper then location location location and how you use the car. Do you cross fords, wade puddles, farm tracks or snowy area, longer winters. Use a Part time or full time AWD for what many buy them for. ............. As much use as a Chocolate Fireguard when on the wrong tyres. Buy near all the gear and no idea.

Not 40,000 miles or @ 4 years. 40,000 miles is far too many miles before servicing the haldex. Unless 4 years happens to be the 2nd time it is being done, like when due as it is 20,000-30,000 miles since last done. Volvo were @ 2 years / 20,000 miles. The Service Schedule, Guidelines, Recommendations was changed to 30,000 miles / 3 years a decade ago by VW, and eventually by Skoda, but they never made that clear to owners or Dealership Service Desk staff. & they still think the filters are some fictional part. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/442337-haldex-problem-scout http://eco-torque.co.uk/post/haldex-control-faults-fixes-for-your-haldex-unit-eco-torque-ltd ......... A member's picture from the thread above in Briskoda.

Good to see you have narrowed it down to what you are after. I did the same and then went looking having had a mk2 1.9tdi estate for 12 years from new. I'd echo the comments about checking the coolant reservoir for a split silca bag. Also get the engine up to temperature and put the blowers on high temp... if its not blowing hot the silica bag has split and blocked the matrix and a dealer will charge 2k to flush and fix the system. Those with a silica bag have "mit silicat" printed on the expansion tank but when mine got replaced the main dealer swapped it with a one without the silica bag under the used car warranty. I bought the car with 29k on the clock in the may so never noticed the heater issue until the winter but luckily within the 12month warranty window. I'd also want a full size spare, I kept the one from my mk2 as it was a similar size rolling circumference but on a 16inch rim. Check the one you have in your mk2 and keep it if you can. The main dealer I used said that wouldn't affect the part ex value on mine coz it was so old and off to auction . Depending on age also look for apple /android car connectivity. My 2016 was on the transition year so car play wasn't activated as standard but can be done for about £140 via main dealers to cover the software licence cost. I haven't bothered to do that. Cheers

Both my current GTI, and previous vRS (both DQ250's) will drop a cog as I change into Sport mode to bring the revs up. It's what I expect them to do. Our DQ200 Polo GTI also does the same. Gaz

OK, who's this bloomin Hooligan? Gotta be one of you lot! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLpfez6-y7s 😝

Excellent, thank you for the clarification Phutters. 👍

Good to know. I wonder if it comes down to torque of the engine? Like the old diesels used to pretty much creep using their own steam in first.

Yes buddy, this was around 96k from memory. The clutch and flywheel was changed, cost me £950 through an independent with OEM parts approximately 4 years ago.

No sunroof

This might help you

Absolute pleasure, thanks for the shout out. Thanks @varooom for drawing my attention to it.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Below +5c generally is when the winter setting is used on a battery charger if it has that setting. 16km (10m) may be barely enough as a journey to get the engine warmed, the coolant temperature gauges are often biased to show 90c even when a bit above or below this and it is more important to have the oil temperature at 90c or above for a while which might depend on the type of journey the 16km was. You probably need to do longer journeys to help find and clear things. Clean new spark plugs can often make a good improvement even when the existing plugs look fine same for HT leads. Sorry I cannot think what an "ignition cassette" might be (at the moment perhaps at 3am tomorrow). Anything not right with the ignition system could affect the starting, idle and running. Once you have checked/changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF and throttle perhaps, fitted the new plugs and leads and if the car is up to it you might want to take the car on a couple of sensibly done blowout (Italian tune-up) runs with perhaps a tankful or two of something like Shell V-Power for its additives cleaning package.

From memory with my Octavia it wouldn't always shift when going into S. It depends on the revs and car speed at the time. If I was off the gas and pulled back on the stick it might just change down earlier than D or E rather than straight away.

Start by sorting out the battery. Low or dead battery in these cars plays hell with the control modules. Assuming the battery you fitted is not damaged, charge it fully with a suitable battery charger and carry out the adaptation process. When this is done we can start figuring what might actually be broken.

You need 10 posts iirc before you can use the edit, and the edit function only works for 1hr after posting. If you become a paid member of the forum, then afaik these limits on time do not apply. I can send you a link to 0480, but it might be your unit has been hacked? Maybe not you, but someone has perhaps "activated" Apple carplay or Android Auto, which is why your current Software Train appear blank.

The main problem with the Haldex unit is lack of maintenance, as it is considered ‘sealed for life’ by Skoda and therefore the changing of fluid / filters is not incorporated into maintenance schedules. Like brake fluid, Haldex fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture), so over time it will degrade and ultimately increase the chance of corrosion within the unit. Ideally, fluid and filters should be changed every 40k miles. Not a difficult job and plenty of ‘how to’ videos on You Tube, as the process is similar across the whole VAG range. The companies, which specialise in Haldex repairs, sell the maintenance kits and fluid.

Had the same problem when my battery failed. Once the car was going again after being recovered, this fault remained until a new battery was fitted at the dealership.

I’m still here she’s been racking up the miles taking me too and from work I use it every day near enough. A few little jobs today as the weather was mild. A result of fitting the Gti loom was that the wing indicators became redundant as I gained the mirror indicators. So I wired them back in as I don’t think you can have too many indicators 😂, and fitted some fresh lenses as my old ones were cloudy. IMG_3039.MOV Also fitted some newer wiper arms as my coating had gone where the blade sits and I could see it everytime I drove her. and my last little job was fitting a non broken connector on my coolant tank as the old one was snapped. much better

I have never used 30mm wrench in car repairs (i have changed my thermoswitch in the past) because i never need to bought one. Update: Yes it's 29mm, i just check it.

My Corsa, or actually Motability Finance's was built about 3 years ago but due to lock down not registered until August 2020. Lease is up in August but i intend extending that if there is an issue getting a replacement with things i like with this car, or if i order one in the 3 months before the lease is up i am OK waiting and running this car until whenever. But, it sounds like the motor is going to drop out when going over the very slightest of bumps, road joints, sleeping policeman etc. That is the Drop Links that are shagged. So they need replacing, it already had new rear discs and pads. The car has not had an easy life, and 205/45 17 XL tyres and hard suspension and a heavy car is not the best of idea. Anyway, anyone buying one of these at less than 3 years old where they might have failed a MOT and give an indication of work required needs to be aware that expense could be coming their way. Maybe they will look like a cheap way into an EV, but just take care. & do not assume because an Ex Mobility car it was well looked after because really Vauxhall Main Dealers or the Techs / fitters can be totally hopeless.

I've got an original 1971 version, and that isn't magnetic. The moral of the story is don't lose a 2p coin down a vent unless it's one of the later copper plated steel versions or you won't be able to retrieve it with a magnet.

This one was.

You will need thin trim remove Tools. Mask Blue area with tape in case trim tool slips and scratches plastic. Orange arrows, start here. Once this area is lifted you can slot a credit card in there to keep the gap where are you use your trim removal tools on the next next stage. Green arrows next. Blue arrow, trim just hooks under here, no prying required. It will then lift out allowing you to disconnect the two block connectors for the windows and mirrors. It is a tight fit but will pop up as you work your way around.

There's no images on the trader link haha, I snapped it up on the reserve before it even went fully live. It's racing blue, 19 plate 51k, FSH. heated steering, heated front windscreen, heated seats, black pack and the almost impossible to find digital display, I think that's it for extras, not sure if lane assist is standard. Negs: tire brands and some light thin scratches around the door handle, highish milage. 16k p/x w 3 years warranty.

SE L only has basic rear lights so single reverse light. Basic Upgraded

I don't know if this is the cause, but exists TPI 2062011.4 Battery discharged - power steering control unit still active.pdf In short, the error is caused by failing to finish the diagnostic session fully, and technician unplugs diagnostic tool too early. The steering wheel control unit stays awake draining the battery. They have updated software for this error if of course this is your trouble.

Welcome to the forum. If there is still the manufacturers warranty then is there still Skoda Assist. Call get a responder, so that is the AA, and then they can arrange transport to the Dealership. http://skoda.co.uk/owners/roadside-assistance Is the car going to Perth? For Warranty work what about Thomson & Potter Skoda John Clark Group? ? Is the car serviced to Manufacturers Recommendations OK, i take it not a Skoda Approved Car sold to her by AC. SKOEXTC1 0218 web.pdf

A photo of the Scala, it was too cold and windy to take any more!