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But according to the official workshop manual it isn't - there is no periodic requirement to replace it...

If it is the 7 speed DQ200 box used in most petrol models then no oil change. If it is the 6 speed wet box then oil change every 40,000 miles.

Well well well. It arrived today and I only went and changed it myself didn’t I?! This is coming from a guy who barely knows how to use a screwdriver! I’ve no way of knowing whether the part is genuine or not, but the car is running beautifully for the first time in ages. It’s been a long long time since I’ve seen anything close to +35mpg on the trip computer. Thank you all so much for your help. Hopefully the part is a goodun and it keeps me going for a while. I forgot to take a picture of the part before I fitted it but it doesn’t look the same as the old one - the writing is different. Anyway, we’ll see how I get on. Edit - I put in the code on the seal into the Bosch website and it says it’s a genuine part. Winner?!

I am in the London Fire Brigade and I can categorically tell you that our EFAD driver training ( Emergency Fire Advanced Driving) follows the same driver training as the Police, called Roadcraft. At no point in my training a few years ago was I advised or encouraged NOT to indicate. So, if you see a police car on blues not indicating then bottom line is that driver is a d*ckhead. Some might think I’m being harsh, but you wouldn’t if that police car caused a major accident just because he/she couldn’t be bothered to Indicate.

A DQ200 DSG requires no Oil changes of either of the 2 oils, in the box and in the MCU. That is the 7 speed Twin Dry Clutch DSG in the front wheel drive TSI or TDI with no more than 250 Nm and 180 ps in a Skoda. 192 ps in a VW. (Kodiaq not included in this as they will be a DQ381) (Not sealed for life because some do change the oil, and VW had a World Wide Recall in 2012 & a European Service Campaign from 2014 and the oil was chanhed in around 4 million DQ200's)

Quite literally sweet fanny adams. Reckon it’s all on the dealer - told me the dealer would have sent the letter out and the dealer has no definitive timescale on when the new one will be in stock. I kept asking the guy about what Skoda UK knew or did or possible for and he wouldn’t answer. Seems to be no accountability from Skoda UK - he didn’t seem to give a t0ss anyway. For all the risk it’ll do me I might as well be a Skoda dealer.

Make sure you hold them to as strict account when it comes to supplying the new one.

If it's 02E (DQ250 iirc) then sealed for life. At least as far as I recall. You really need the gearbox code to know for sure. EDIT: The above was from memory, so will leave it rather than cover up my mistake. Here is a link to the gearboxes on TPS https://tps.trade/insider/dsg-servicing

Now almost convinced the bevel box was never leaking, apart from maybe from the vent on top, and that could have been years ago. The thing is a licence for garages to print money as far as I can see.

I may be barking up the wrong tree, but I suffered from the exact same issue, but with an previous Astra K, auto. It was intermittent like yours, but very annoying. Anyway I had it repaired under extended warranty. The cause, the gear selector mechanism, it sits just below your gear stick selector. The Astra had a torque converter box, yours is a dsg, but they both have a gear selector mechanism. If it sticks again, try pushing your gear stick lever forward past the park position, see if that then releases you key. It did so for a while with mine. Good luck and I hope you get it sorted.

Tyre pressures last checked?

Those lights all, to me, indicate a possibly intermittent problem with a wheel speed sensor - since all those systems rely on correctly knowing vehicle speed.

Seems from anecdotal evidence as though VAG have fitted an improved cambelt to these engines which in theory has an extended lifetime. They therefore decided that there was no need for a simple cambelt change mechanism as it is no longer a periodic requirement. There's obviously still a potential need for a cambelt to be removed and changed when other work may be required on the engine. In the factory, when they build engines, they set the cambelt timing electronically so decided that a similar system could be used for the 'once in a blue moon' case where it needed to be done in the dealer network. Of course, the test kit to do this is expensive, its not a problem in manufacturing, they're doing hundreds of engines and its economic. Of course, the franchised dealers are now forced/obliged to have this expensive kit which, in theory, is hardly ever used. The dealers dont like this, so decide (with the manufacturer approval in some regions?) to continue to advise that cambelt changes are necessary and thus make a suitable return on their investment in the test kit. or am I just getting sceptical in my old age😀

Cheers for the response. Thinking about it, rather than getting into a debate with the Skoda dealer over specifying non-OEM parts, I will get my trusted local independent to do the job - he will most likely have a preferred disc supplier and I will go along with that.

In reply to my own topic as may help others to cure this issue: Having had Adblue warning message come up on dash purchased 20ltr of Adblue about £25 and display said min amount to add was 10ltr. plastic drum fortunately came with filler spout and attempted reset leave ignition on for 20 seconds plus before starting but did not reset. Having done some further research seemed problem could be did not add enough now down to only 700 mile range according to counter I looked at drum and clearly had not added enough as should of been half of drum topping it back up again followed procedure ignition on 20/30 seconds and relieved it reset. So it is important to add close to the the volume it says on display to avoid issues with it not resetting also do not overfill have read that can cause issues with calibration. Finally do not ignore this warming or range indicator you can get to a a point where car will not start as tank is depleted. Hope this may help others..

https://www.reddit.com/r/enyaq/comments/10wrxao/skoda_released_a_solution_for_travel_assist_not/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

Update. The AA man got it wrong. The pedal stayed down the next day and changing gear became impossible. I had the master cylinder replaced and it's good again. I recommend Stuart at Speedy Clutch of Hyde, Greater Manchester.

Ask yer nan to knit a replacement 🥲

Thought I would update this topic since I started it, I bought a 16 plate 1,4 tsi se at 9k on the clock. Its now done 194000 . Only new bits so far 2 front drop links, battery, aulternator, clutch even though it didnt need it front and rear disks at 140krear and 150k front. small Timeing belt at 160k . Uses no oil between 10k sercices, break pads changed every 50k. still pulls like a train

I was putting washing away upstairs and noticed the light as the Sun was on its way down. Didn't think to open the window to reduce reflection 🙄 I like late afternoon Winter's Sun: Gaz

Just fitting 18 genuine vw Pretoria wheels as the roads here are just pothole after pothole. I’ll tell u what tho those 19 inch extremes are super heavy.

After the good part of the road.... then we started to climb at about 530pm and reach the camp site at about 1am,

This was pretty much half of the way We had to use the ramps for that kind of terrain (worse than the picture above) about 14 or 15 times. in that picture, it was 7600ft MSL and 12:30am, i was really needing a turbo, but i dont think that i could have do it with hotter temps, like 1 or 2pm, there just would not be enough oxigen for the necesary power

Sounds like they have damaged the vacuum pipe while changing the plugs , there’s a few posts on here about it , if not they could have damaged the coil packs / wiring and or not correct spark plugs at correct gap

It may be down to how he drove it. Pottering along and shifting into S won't necessarily cause a downshift. It will however cause it to more readily downshift. They need to understand the kit they are servicing. I am particularly impressed that they are still pushing the funny driving style. Shifting back and forth between modes was standard pretty much every time I got in the car.

Plenty will see the 5 year service on their almost no miles done 1.5 TSI ACT car and think get shot & a get a new one, not spending £2,500. @ 5 Years. MOT time. Cam Belt. Brake Fluid 2nd change. Oil & Inspection Service & Extended Scope. Told the brake are 80% worn needs discs and pads. AC Service. Suggested fuel treatment etc etc. ? Will the Dealers / Trader do the Cam Belt at 5 years before selling them on ? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510188-question-re-cambelt-vw-t-roc

Not a DQ200 if it has Haldex, so must be like a Kodiaq 1.4 TSI with Haldex if a 7 speed. A DQ381.

Find out if you have a DQ200 box, as there is a fault that states this... "Noises when changing to 3rd gear - DSG DQ 200 gearbox" It's all about an issue with 3rd gear, 4th to 3rd or 2nd to 3rd.

Thank you for the responses everyone. I now have the car and it has 2 SD card slots, one dedicated to SATNAV. I think the issue I had before was a limit on the number of files (30,000) rather than the actual capacity. Anyway, all my music fits on a 250gb card and there seems to be no restrictions so all is good. Really appreciate the responses, thank to all who have offered advice. Cheers Jon

try here, use them a lot for classic car parts. Woolies – Trim, upholstery and fittings for Classic Cars (woolies-trim.co.uk) Angelo

I generally swear by the Bilstein's. Been my go to replacement on last 3/4 cars. Have a set sitting in a box here that were on the superb.... found to be incompatible with Sportline model. so be sure to cross check part numbers. So, now have KYB on, they are OK, harsher than Bilstein's. Yeah, simple enough job at the back, all done in the arch. 👍

They stopped putting sim slots in three years ago...now uses an e-sim, data is fixed to Cubic Telecoms, and you buy data on line. https://skoda.cubictelecom.com/en

Could be in sport mode rather than normal or eco? Otherwise, there is a TPI regarding the power steering which might be the cause:

Hello, yes I can send you a new firmware to 0253 version Also you can grab new maps from this post here... You have "1910" and is available "2010" version

@nta16 low profile tyres can be pure crap so no disagreement with that. But people buy or lease or use a car and they come with what they have. Not everyone is going to replace 4 or 5 wheels and tyres because they might be better with more sidewall.

Finally Google decided that today was the day for my Pixel 5 and my MIB2 (Superb MY17) to get the Coolwalk update!! Initial experience is positive. Mine is running through AAWireless and I can change the DPI setting which influences the layout. Mine is currently set to 128 DPI.

No luck so far... Dealer says they are still not aware of any fixes available. I checked myself on erwin and didn't find anything, indeed. One software update is required for my car, but nothing related to TA failures.

Direct link for OP: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/ecu/switches-and-sensors/air-mass-sensor/bosch-air-mass-sensor-0280218340-detail Price looks good. I think I paid about £60 on exchange basis from a dealer 10 or 11 years ago.

Mark 2 Greenline manual gearbox. The Clutch pedal is depressed to the floor and won't spring back. So it's locked in reverse. The AA are on their way but I'm wondering if anyone can tell me what the extent of the repair is likely to be. Thanks in advance

Food and accomodation paid from what is not being paid buying liquid fuel. 100 minutes charging tonight and 40 minutes tomorrow that needs paid for but I will have a few free sessions tomorrow. So about £15 for 480 miles is ok. All the time in the world and almost a full moon. Plane I am waiting on about to land then off I go.

Turned out it was the lower intercooler hose had torn apart 😅😅 Got a new one to fit, but cos the intercooler connector been ravaged with 4 self tappers.. Gonna self tap it on or use a couple of jubilees and 13mm 115kg strength cable ties Test drove it a few times but it popped off each time after a mile or so cos was only using shty cable ties with no jubilees.. Power is back, and black smoke completely gone 🙏

Hi, I had a similar issue and it was traced to worn insulation on a wire to the rear wiper, allowing the wire to short out occasionally. This would trigger the rear wiper to wipe. The affected wire was in the tailgate, near where it comes from the main body. I would investigate this possibility soon, since in my case it was only diagnosed after the wiper stopped working entirely; because the circuit board in the control unit burnt out. It appears that the supply to this ECU is not fused!! It became a rather expensive repair.

Hybrids tend to use the motor generator to restart rather than the starter motor. Certainly my Swift only uses the starter motor for the first start on each drive cycle. Every subsequent one uses the hybrid motor.

Inflated secondhand value is hardly relevant on a twenty year old mass produced economy hatchback!

The million dollar question. It's not quick. It is let down by a bloody infuriating gearbox - or, to be more precise, the programming/mapping on the gearbox - and a throttle pedal that is as quick to react as a sloth who has OD'd on sleeping pills. It's never in the right gear and it takes too long to change down. Doesn't help that it is a 7-speed box so you invariably need it to change down 2 or 3 gears instead of the 1 or 2 that you would in a 'normal' 6-speed box. Sport mode is pretty much unusable around town unless you like driving round in a low gear and everyone staring at you for the resultant noise (although you can partly solve that by using the 'custom' mode and turning the noise generator off). On the other hand, sport mode is the only one that has an even remotely responsive throttle... it's a shame the 'drive' component of the 'custom' mode controls both the gearbox and throttle response - if you could change them independently then it would be a whole lot better. Having said all of that, learn the gears, hit 'sport' and shove the 'box into semi-auto, then point it at a typical UK B-road... and it can make very rapid progress, and for what it is (a big lump, not a sports car), it's a pretty decent drive and can be good fun. I've no idea what the power curve actually looks like, but keep the needle up above 3k-3.5k revs and it's responsive enough. Overtaking with a full load doesn't require a second thought (don't be stupid though), and if you keep the engine purring at the higher revs, you can end up going faster than you realise pretty darn quickly... but that's the biggest problem that I think most (if not all) large SUVs suffer from, they just don't have that sensation of speed because you're high up off the road. If you need something big enough to fit your family, dog, and enough crap (sorry, luggage) for a couple of weeks in the south of France, and still have a bit of fun now and then, I've yet to see something that offers the same package for less money. I love mine, and don't regret getting it at all. If I end up keeping it past the end of the PCP (I probably won't, just because I like new cars), then I'd look at tuning it (it's the venerable old Golf GTI lump so there are plenty of options) 😎. (Edit: tl;dr - not quick, but fun (and practical) nonetheless).

It only affects the covers that are made of this rubber/foam. Just throw everything out, that plastic stuff.

Mine is unconfirmed build week 11, ordered 12/21. I don't hold my breath while waiting if that will be confirmed...

I would whip out and examine the o2 sensor, mine was utterly blocked and playing hell with the fuelling, mpg is now mid 40's up from low mid 30's.

But why would you want a Scout with open diff fwd? To me it doesn't look any better, you lose fuel economy and gain nothing in return.