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First glimpse of my Karoq, hopefully collecting it on Friday all being well.

Blooming freezing this evening 🥶

Lovely (nearly full) Moon this evening, although partially obscured by cloud . The trees clearly think Spring has arrived!

Neuspeed torsion bar upgrade fitted…

Also, it is recommended, to prolong life of the gearbox, when you park, put gearbox in N, then engage electronic handbrake, release brake pedal and let it hang on parking brake and then engage P. I do this because my parking space is a bit sloped and if you immediately let it sit in P the car is held by the gearbox.

1078804 - Left Rear Parking Aid Sensor

Finally got around to installing a Whiteline adjustable Rear Sway Bar a few days ago. The standard sway bar on the AWD is 22mm, this is 24mm solid steel and I had it set to the hardest of the two settings (so equivalent to 25mm). I kept the factory end links (I'm not going to track this vehicle!). Definitely worth doing, and transforms the cornering response - it now has a much sharper turn-in, very flat, smooth and precise and a great addition to the Eibach springs. Happily, it's removed much of the inherent understeer and greatly reduced the sense of bulk and weight of the Superb when it's cornering. Ride comfort is unaffected.

The DSG software on Octavia MK4 does indeed put the gearbox into "P" when you press the button to stop the engine. It has become a habit for me to no longer press the gearbox-"P" for the park position, because the car does that automatically. BTW - for 2 years I used to drive another dual-clutch transmission (Megane-GT) that was not drive-by-wire and that needed manual input of the gearbox-lever into "P" position. In most of the situations I do not apply the parking brake (that is the other "P" in the car, not the one of the gearbox selector) - NOTE for the initiator of this topic: that's the electronic hand-brake operated by some electric motors on the back wheels, not manually as you used to do using a hand-brake lever. I'm generally not using it simply because I'm parking on horizontal areas most of the time; when the sloped terrain is asking for it, I'm also using the parking-brake. The shifter in the Octavia MK4 doesn't have a dedicated "M" (for manual) position. However, the driver may access the Manual-mode at any time (while the gearbox is in D/S position) by using any of the two shifter-paddles behind the steering wheel. The gearbox indicator on the digital dashboard will change from "D" or "S" to "M" followed by the number of the gear that is engaged. The gearbox will remain in Manual mode until the driver will put it back into Automatic mode, but will still change gears if the driver doesn't: it will downshift to avoid engine-stall, and it will up-shift to avoid over-revs while accelerating. To go back into Automatic mode from Manual-drive, the driver has two options: pull back (short-pull is enough) on the gearbox selector, or pull back the "+" paddle behind the steering wheel for about two seconds. As @toot mentioned, reverse is for going backwards - so that's for you to decide... Neutral - you'll probably never need that position in normal usage conditions; it is mainly needed when you need to push the car for a couple of meters, or for towing the car when there's no other option. D/S is for going forward, only the gearbox behavior (software)) is different. In "D" the gearbox is shifting gears at quite low revs and it will not show the gear-number on the dashboard of the car. In "S" only the gearbox is in Sport-mode (not to be confused with the "Sport-mode" of the Engine&&DSG), so it will change the gears at slightly higher revs, and you'll also see the engaged gear-number on the dash (see second picture - lower-left corner). I always use the "S"-mode of the DSG, because I hate not knowing the engaged gear, and because "D" is keeping the revs too low for my taste.

It's a bodge but....

Welcome to the forum, 1078804 - Rear Left Parking Aid Sensor - B1076 14 [008] -- Open or Short to Ground So it would appear that you have a duff sensor, but most likely it will be a cable fault (mice/rats or just salty road corrosion) That's what a quick google shows for that code. Edit: Sorry @pab567 didn't even see you had made a reply, I was in another browser window.

Two either side, engine mount down the left of engine as you look at it. (transmission mount under the air box) third, sometimes known as the dog bone mount is underneath, holding transmission to subframe. They are quite easy to change, just need to move the coolant bottle/water filler neck for the engine mount. The air box for the transmission mount. just use new bolts as they are stretch bolts. Swap one side at a time. Jack the relevant side from underneath prior to loosening the bolts. Buy Lemforder from autodoc or similar.

@varooom @ApertureS i'm guessing, more likely: 1. OBD '2' is protected label 2. commercial product were required unique name of brand -> https://obdeleven.com/en/

Just update for anyone curious. I've had no issues with my battery since, everything works. and a quick top up every week or two does the job. I past my 6A charger to a friend and got myself the 4A, charging takes about 4-6 hours regardless of the duration between charges if it was a week or 2. Even in more colder weather now it's been faultless. I had to revive a car last week which was dead of a friend, as the charger is not super powerful it did take about 10 min of charging to be able to have enough power to disarm and unlock the car and turn the alarm off which was quite embarrassing. after this I left the car to charge over night at all was good in the morning. links for anyone interested 4A: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automotive-RSC806-Battery-Charger/dp/B082VBV2Z9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ring%2Bcar%2Bcharger&qid=1678061464&sprefix=ring%2Bcar%2Bch%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3&th=1 6A: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automotive-RSC806-Battery-Charger/dp/B082VB9H19/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ring%2Bcar%2Bcharger&qid=1678061464&sprefix=ring%2Bcar%2Bch%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3&th=1 8A:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automotive-RSC806-Battery-Charger/dp/B087ZGVK6L/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ring%2Bcar%2Bcharger&qid=1678061464&sprefix=ring%2Bcar%2Bch%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3&th=1 As other people have said the 4A is good enough and will be best for the long term health of your battery.

I wouldn't be replacing those discs based on your photos.

In the old days it was condom's in there 🥰

That's where my latest ones are coming from. Will fit and see what happens.

Had a little accident month ago, woman was backing into parking spot and went full pedal to the metal into me, ruined my front end, car was fixed but I ended up swapping grill and added front splitter, few more bita coming in following weeks.

thanks @BerkCo - I've got a new favourite YouTube presenter - he's great!

Who is going to tell my slots that they are not allowed to let air pass through them, you or me? 🤣

Had one fitted as standard on my old octavia under the passage seat. I retrofitted another one under the drivers seat. Wife's yeti had a passenger one as well. Must be a cost cutting exercise as my current 69 plate octavia estate only has the condon stowage.

Yes, your code is 1N2 so you need Febi 21700 gaiters.

You wiggle the steering or touch the brake pedal or tap the accelerator in readiness. Engine on. When the Lights are away to go green. traffic about to move, that is how many drive an automatic / dsg. This is how many move smoothly with a DSG without the engine just firing up as you are going to be using the accelerator to move forward. Autohold has the vehicle held for you and the box is in D. Clues from the vehicle in front that has the brake light go on, or go out or the reversing light flashes as they maybe take their auto / dsg out of park, through reverse and neutral and into D. Maybe there are those being a dither and firing the engine just when actually using the accelerator to move a foot or 3.

My Superb was manufactured on 7th December 2022 and delivered to the dealer on 23rd January 2023 :). Was stuck in Germany till 7th Jan 2023 if I remeber correctly.

With the direct tpms the display shows the current tyre pressure and the recommended pressure in brackets. No need to reset as in previous indirect tpms.

Thanks I will (when I have time). Having read back my use of the word "panic" was misused. I was intended it to sound human. It was intended as a description of the box changing from it's preselect of 3rd to 1st. Also not talking about engaging both shafts at the same time. I also work with dynamics and having done some work into combined environments can state that non-linear responses can occur. If you understand that terminology (I'm guessing you do) then I think we are arguing about things we both know about, but neither knows everything. Probably wise to leave it there and get back to the gearbox talk.

yeah sorry i misunderstood what you meant

But the OP was not a a Dealers, they were at their trusted VAG Specialist. (VW Group Specialist). Trusted being the point really, because if you have to start questioning their advice then surely they have lost your trust, which is why many no longer go to Main Dealers. People get peed off if their regular mechanics or staff at the place start treating you like a Golden Goose.

If it feels right, it is right. I read a long time ago that 90% of the imbalance is in the rim, so if they left the weights on, it's probably close enough. I fit my own tyres and don't have a balancer. Tyres have a marking on to show their heaviest and lightest point, so I just line that up to where the old one was.

Thanks again mate 🤝

Man, that’s a filthy breather. Upon inspecting the breather, it indeed seems like it’s the current culprit for the leak. Are the seals replaceable, or will just a cleaning do, or should I just order a new unit? Photo of the plate I mentioned:

Today I got info that my Octavia Estate (2.0 TDI ambition) was finished, next week should be at dealers shop. Orderd 15/4/2022 -> 11 months of waiting

You sir are a star. Black clip against a black background in the roof of the bin no wonder that I couldn’t find it.

@varooom no need to be sorry, it only proves who are the ones following this forum

Ask for disc thickness measurements in writing as well as the manufacturer stated replacement thickness. then get your own tools, measure and if they have spoken incorrectly report them if a skoda dealer/large chain. How much meat is left on the pads as the shadow on the photo doesn’t suggest they’re worn in the second picture (but you can’t tell from a picture so they might be worn)?

Don't know how I worked out it tallied with yours. I'll use the excuse it was late ......... Mine's a late '16 Scout, so my numbers seem correct, now that I've worked my way around the K8B/K8D difference - Notchback, or Wagon/Avant Naturally the one I need is twice the price ................🙄 It will most probably be a scrapper and/or cut and splice.

Brown means "rust" usually. Or maybe just the expansion tank is old and/or a bit dirty and changes the color of the coolant Take a some coolant out and see it's actual color. From another forum: source: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-s8-d3-platform-discussion-60/orange-coolant-just-fyi-2939621/

What if I told you there was a much cheaper option available to you that could get you this sort of performance... vs the APR figures on the Stage 3 package...

I suppose 5 minutes is technically 300 seconds so you are sort of right 😉 (EA288) 'Post-Start Glowing Post-start glowing helps reduce hydrocarbon emissions and combustion noises during the warm-up phase. For post-start glowing, the switch-on time of the onboard supply voltage is adjusted in the PWM duty cycle to ensure that there is an effective voltage of 4.4 V. Post-start glowing lasts a maximum of 5 minutes after starting the engine or until coolant temperature reaches 24 °C.'

You may find the larger tyres are more susceptable to changes in pressure than smaller wheels. Occasionally the warning will trigger on my car when the temps dip, but it also went a tad bonkers last summer when I travelled south down the M6 to a sweltering Cheshire.

I think that you are just getting range(from home) anxiety, which is fair enough, the drop off in "start/start" might just be down to winter temperatures and so using more lights/heaters, NC500 in March, brave person, I waited until May/June. I hope that there are plenty Langoustines in Applecross - if you like that sort of thing, I'm well overdue my meal of them fresh out of the sea! I have an exwork mate who is going to France in July, so he felt the urge to get rid of his 3 year old 4K miles Ford Focus and get a new Ford Kuga - now that is proper range(away from home) anxiety - PCP had run out though, and he'll have a 1.5 engine instead of a 1.0 engine for the long run down UK and through France.

@carefree That is maybe until you have them side by side to compare, have you seen the Mk3 and 4 side by side to compare?

@J_R See this link:- Hope this helps.

He sent me this image in a PM when I asked same Lee:

I've added more info to my reply, so you need to re-read that too. You can format the USB drive in VFAT, FAT16, FAT32, exFAT or NTFS, and I just copied the MP4 files from my PC in a folder for each CD/album. They are then displayed with the artist, track name, album name etc (and usefully you can set favourite artists, genres, or albums to quickly select the desired tracks). I don't know if you need to be set up as a primary user to use a USB drive (I wouldn't have thought so to be honest) but this does need to be resolved. Is there an existing user that needs to be removed first perhaps? I was able to set myself up fairly quickly, but the procedure is quite strict on how you do it. (I did it back in November 2020 so my memory is a bit hazy now.) But I remember I needed to have all the car keys with me, and my phone. If you can download a user manual that should guide you through it, otherwise complain to the dealer who sold you the car. My car came with a printed manual, but even that referred me to a downloadable manual for details of the Amundsen (but that was when the MIB3 units had just been released). I also hate this "green" idea of not providing written user manuals, but I'm of a generation who received a bookshelf of manuals back in the 1980s when I first installed MS Office onto a PC! Chris

I mean, no pads dont always need to be replaced with discs. But, there are a huge amount of factors that determine if 1. the discs need replacing now, 2. will the discs last for the next set of pads or near enough. Many factors come into it including thickness, lips, grooves, heat marks, corrosion, contamination, damage. All of these need to come into account. The first picture its hard to tell but looks like the surface is grooved in lots of places, the second looks like it has a bit of wear on the thickness but cant tell without measuring. You need to ask whoever is doing the work to prove the discs are required by measuring and comparing to the specification and also a qualified visual inspection.

I doubt you’ll get much assistance from the UK brains trust, we are very lucky to find 500 meters of straight road.

It certainly contains PTFE, but I think it's mineral oil based, judging from the safety sheet. (That said, I can't say I'm an expert at reading safety sheets.) https://media.gt85.co.uk/app/uploads/2022/06/01155628/F00270_EN.pdf I understand silicone oil is more difficult to shift than mineral oil when it comes to paintwork, though.

I took delivery this week, looks nice in the sun 🌞 Loving the car 👌

Thanks for your owner review of the Mercedes, I have been a skoda /VW passat driver for many years, none of them ever let me Down, I always service them myself, and run regular diagnostic checks on DPF etc, However I recently took my brother to the Airport in his 220 Mercedes Diesel car and my wife and I were both impressed with the smoothness of the car and absoloute comfort. I saw A Mercedes E350 BLUETEC AMG LINE PREMIUM 5d 255 BHP estate advertised at a garage 55k and went for a look at it, The condition was very nice indeed, I started the engine and it was as smooth as silk, I didnt drive it as I asked the sales guy how much he would give me against my 2017 Superb sportline Estate 150bhp Diesel with 40,000 on the clock, he offered me £14500 against this 2015 Diesel Mercedes priced at £20K, which I thought was a Joke, he mentioned a scratch on the wheel arch and said "paint jobs are so expensive nowdays" as though he was justifying the low price. I went away and looked up some information on the mercedes especially the faults they encounter, I was amazed to find there were 8 "defeat Devices" fitted to this model mercedes to bring it in line with the emissions tests, and also that there were numerous electrical faults attributed to this Top Spec car. The concensus was that these cars lose their reliability fairly regularly which is a great shame, but the same issues were encountered on the once legendary Sprinter vans that lost their status as a bomb proof van . I know the earlier Mercedes Cars were Bomb Proof , but it seems that the later cars have far too much technical issues and they run on a very complicated ECU control system. I decided to leave it where it was, I saw another sportline same year same mileage as mine on a forecourt and it was on sale at just under £21k so this guy was hoping to make a few grand profit on My superb..(nice try) Think I will stick with Skoda , pity because the E350 is a lovely car but Bit like the wife -its far too complicated at times Thanks for an interesting review .

Couple of recent photos taken with the roofbox fitted, ready to swallow up all the gear we 'need' for our family trips