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Hello people, I'm drive the facelift combi model in king blue. I like working on my car to improve it. We wash the car almost once a week because of my 3 year old son. This picture is a dream

Just to close the loop on this: there was no upselling or additional work required other than advisories on changing the front tyres soon. I think the fact that they were busy was good and bad: no time or desire to do any extra work but my car was not ready at the 5 p.m. they advised so had to wait until 5.30, which was annoying. I will book a waiting appointment next time! Thanks for all the responses: very useful for this but also going forward. Cheers.

Hi All, Minor update. Skoda customer services have arranged with dealer to flash my DSG back to pre-update software next week. I shall report back. On one hand, positive news, on the other, it's taken a lot of time, stress, and sadness to get to here and I don't want to count my chickens yet.

There was a Caddy towbar in my lock-up for years. I cannot even remember where I got it from, but I guess I must have spotted it for sale locally and thought I might as well get it ‘just in case’. After I retrieved it from the lock-up it did sterling service as a doorstop for my workshop for another couple of years, before I figured I may as well fit it to my Caddy. When I removed the NSR access panel inside the load area, I found evidence that it had previously had a towbar fitted, but sadly that evidence was in the form of Scotchlok connectors still attached to the wiring harness. The previous owner had compounded the mess by attaching cables to feed his high level brake light (see post #1). This had to go. After I had prised the dreaded Scotchloks off the cables, I was able to remove the pins one at a time from the 8-way connector and slip some heatshrink over them to repair the damage to the cable insulation. With the pins then replaced I wrapped the loom in coroplast tape. I got quite a bit of the white overspray off the connectors whilst I was there. Now the standard wiring was looking more like it should, and it was ready to have the towing connector wiring added. The approach I decided to take was to make up a splitter loom to connect between this plug and socket, with another branch going to the towing connector. I suspect this may have been how it was done if the towbar was fitted as a factory option, judging by the blanking grommet I found adjacent to where the standard wiring goes through to the NSR light unit. It was only once I had made up this additional loom and connected it for testing that I realised the OSR light unit must have been from a LHD car, as it had a reversing light rather than foglight lens. This gave me the idea of wiring this as a reversing light, and adding a foglight below the bumper. The wiring for this was achieved by using the wire already in place across the rear for the OS reversing light, and running cables from the towing connector to the new foglight. Once I had confirmed that everything was working OK with the splitter loom connected, I removed it to wrap it. When it was then re-fitted, a problem revealed itself, with the offside tail light no longer working. Even with the original wiring configuration restored and the splitter loom out of circuit, the tail light stubbornly refused to illuminate. When I unplugged the relevant light unit, I could measure 12v at the plug, but this disappeared as soon as a load (bulb, even LED) was connected. All the signs said I had a high impedance connection somewhere. This was traced to between the fusebox and the 8-pin connector behind the NSR access panel. Immediately I decided this was most likely to be where the Scotchlok had previously been attached. Maybe the Scotchlok blade had cut through part of the cable core. I cut out the offending section of cable and checked the impedance from the cut end back to the fusebox, which was fine. I took that to mean that I had identified the cause I soldered in a new length of wire where the Scotchlok had been located, but it made no difference. This was a nasty surprise, but then it probably was not the smartest thinking anyway. To preserve the cable colour code at the 8-pin connector I had replaced the damaged section of cable but retained the original terminal pin. There was no visible sign of damage or corrosion to the connector, but now I did what I should have done in the first place, and replaced the whole section including the terminal. Finally it was solved and I was able to refit the rear light units and bumper.

Just came to post a little update. Not sure whether it was the spark plugs in the end or the bottle of redex and e5 I dumped in but I had a few poor MPG runs so dumped the redex in with some e5 and ran it from full to fuel light. Yesterday I filled the car up with e5 and drove to Cardiff and back with about 50 miles of City driving in Bristol Taunton, Bridgewater and Cardiff itself. I was completely shocked when I got past the 180 mile mark and the fuel gauge was still midway. Ended up going 335.4 miles before I decided to fill up, it was in the last notch before the light so still had a little way left. Fill up was 37.57 litres of E5 for a MPG of 40.58. 40.58 MPG! Compared to 20.4 MPG before. Excuse the dust/dirt, cleaning her was not a priority until now. Even though thats nearly double I will be having the car go through a full, yes full service (minus plugs) next week. Certainly over the moon with the improved MPG which has nearly doubled, which is also concerning, where did all that fuel used to go haha!

I was looking up the 2.0 ltr engines and GPF, didn't know when they got fitted to the cars, but upon research it was 01.2017 they began to be used.

That used to be the case, these days the plates are coated with Calcium to prevent self-discharge and extend shelf lives almost indefinitely, a brand new battery is fully charged. Your information is obsolete.

The MOTABILITY Q2 price list for cars including EV's is out, April til end June. 2 Mini Electrics are available, £0 or £499, so much cheapness, MINI must want them punted or they are good for Motability at resale, and and also low / cheap Advance Payments on Zoe, Leaf & even the new MG4. http://motability.co.uk/find-a-vehicle The very high Advance payments like with the Corsa Electric starting @ £2,200 will be because the bad depreciation on the ones that have been going back over this past 3 years. I can not re-order before May for a new car so will wait see what there is in Q3 that will suit me if i stay electric. I would like a MINI just for the fun of it but i never got 100 miles out of a full battery when trying them. The only Plug in Hybrid i could afford from Q2 is the Renault Capture so i will give that a miss. Looks like i will keep the Corsa i have beyond the 3 years and it might be this time next year i get another EV if i do get one. EDIT. Quite a spec with the MINI, leather, heated seats glass roof, matrix lights, choice of 16" wheels rather than 17", good colour choices and no cost options. £35,000 or there about for the £499 then £71 a week. Just the poor range. OK for fun on good or even great driving roads, but hopeless if you are not getting charged while enjoying the 'Drives like a G0-kart'.

You are saying we should put the DSG in N while waiting for a green light for example?

That's because you're raving mad, a brand new battery doesn't need charging because it's never been discharged, just fit it and forget about it.

Why are you contacting Sinclair Skoda, you have no legal contract with them as you didnt instruct or pay them to carry out the work to your car. If you purchased the vehicle from Bristol Street then that is who your legal contract, warranty and terms lie with, They are the ones who have to resolve it for you and if they had work carried out by Skoda Sinclair then they have to deal with that, not yourself. and also there are timescales that must be adhered to before going down any legal route as it could be determined you didnt give fair or reasonable time - So contacting them 24-48 hours ago and then saying you will go down the legal route is not deemed to be reasonable and generally if you have raised an actual complaint they have up to 8 weeks to respond.

@d9flipper Welcome. What engine have you, and was this water pump replacement before you got the car the first time replaced @ 7-8 years old? ? Is this a Skoda Approved Used Car the a Skoda Used Car Warranty? ? Have you read the T&C's on the Warranty & any claim? Not that it matters, as neither does who claims of the Parts Warranty, that is not for you to be doing, your Warranty has the T&C's for what you do. That would have been for Bristol Motors if that was the seller, or the claim going forward to have an authorised repairer to diagnose and repair. VWFS_11815379_SKODA_AUW_Booklet_0922E.pdf

Update on this topic: I fitted new top mounts, bilstein B4's all round, and lesjofors springs from auto doc all round last night. On some bumps that I'd feel very harshly on the way to work and my work entrance, I could barely feel them at all. Really comfortable now and super happy, so if anyone's after a comfortable ride, that's my suggested setup. I can't compare how it feels to complete stock because I've not experienced a car on regular setup.

I have been a travelling salesman for 30 years.........have driven a few million kms.

PM received thanks

Thanks for comments - just to clarify fronts only replaced this morning and picked up in torrential rain.... 4s terrific improvement. 5 not available ...

My Octavia journey: 2021. mid December: ordered SEL (style/elegance) 2022. April: when I had asked - no info At this point gave up receiving it in summer, so was not planning to ping dealer too much, and accepted that will have it for the 2023 summer season. 2022. December: when I had asked - dealer informs that dealer requested to prioritize order in november. 2023. mid January: dealer informs that order appears in skodas system to be built around end of february. 2023. beginning of March - when I had asked - not produced. no additional info available. 2023. March 14th - dealer informs that VIN is assigned 2023. March 15th - dealer informs that car has been built. 2023. March 24th - dealer informs that car has arrived. 2023. March 28th - pickup from dealer

Hi All I scanned the VRS with VCDS recently and there was a "low voltage" error to do with the alarm siren picked up. I decided to replace the battery (2010 vehicle) and hoped that the battery hadn't started leaking over the circuit board. I had read that you open the case up with either a Stanley blade or a hack saw. A mate suggested heating before cutting so I used the wife's hairdryer before cutting with a Stanley blade. It was pretty easy when heated up a bit. Unfortunately that's as good as it got as I had a couple of issues. First one was I cut a wire with the blade while opening it up as there are 2 very close to the edge of the case. Second was I got the wrong battery. I will get the correct battery and replace as planned. I replaced the wire. Please note that if you de-solder the original wire, the metal coating comes with it so you need to solder in another place. I moved the wires to sit in a bit. I took some photos that may help others if they decide to replace the battery. It looks very easy to do. I also have a photo showing the position of the alarm at the rear of the front drivers wheel arch. Cheers Dave

This topic is here to inform other people who might be dealing with similar issues. When I tried to find any topics about other people's 1.2 TSI 77kW engines of the same version having high oil consumption, I could only find something here and there but not a longer story with more information in one place about the additional possible symptoms or what actions are taken by the service. My 2014 Octavia's 1.2 TSI engine has been using some oil since the beginning. As it needed only one top-up just a few thousand km before annual service, I wasn't very concerned as I understand that this is actually normal with these engines. I think was some time after 45,000 km service when the engine randomly started stuttering and shaking, lost power, and "check engine" lit up. Interestingly, a restart solved it but I still reported it. The dealer took it in, investigated and found that the spark plugs looked "strange". I was asked about increased oil consumption but as I hadn't noticed anything different back then, I reported "one top-up not long before service". As they were uncertain about the cause and no oil issues were reported by me, just the spark plugs were replaced under warranty. After 45,000 km service, the next top-up was at about 51,000 km. At 56,000 another top-up was needed. I remembered the question about oil consumption so I reported it. Nothing was found. During 60,000-72,000 km, the car used 4 litres of oil. During that period, I reported the continuing and increasing oil usage again. A minor oil leak was found and the valve cover gasket was replaced. Also, two more issues arised - random (minor) stuttering at idle and start/stop system randomly failed to start the car normally (started up, then died at the same moment, started up again fine, then - but not always - reported start/stop system error until restart). When scanning with OBDEleven, I saw that "cylinder misfire detected" was logged with a note "intermittent" on all 4 cylinders and misfire counter could also be seen increasing pretty frequently when looking at live data. The car was taken in again and this time it was decided that the cylinder head would be replaced. This was done at 74,000 km. At 77,000 km, another top-up was needed. At 78,000 km the level had fallen to the middle of the dipstick. Reported that the cylinder head replacement didn't solve my issues. This time they wanted to measure the consumption so they filled it up again with exactly measured quantity of oil, and I had to drive at least 1000 km and then come back. After this, the official consumption was even higher than I expected (I was already prepared to argue with them if the result was "just below" 0,5/1000 that is stated in the owner's manual) - 0,6 litres per 1000 km. I just got information that the pistons will be replaced with an updated version, a 1,5 day job (under warranty). Although the situation is very inconvenient, I'm really happy that I invested a small sum to get 5 years of warranty instead of 4, otherwise I might be dealing with the costs myself (or at least fighting for "goodwill" and arguing "failed repair").

So here we go again. After selling my 08 reg SE number 571 last weekend I went straight out and purchased SE number 816. It’s got 155k miles on the clock but only 1 owner and full dealer service history. I will as always try and bring it up to a fantastic standard. It drives faultlessly and interior apart from the gear stick badge is mint. A few things done already. New genuine headlamps and mirror glass replaced. Also new genuine gear stick badge. I have a set of wheels at my refurbers to collect this week and some nice goodies are arriving this weekend. Pics of so far progress below.

Hello everyone, after 1 year of loving this car I thought I would like to share with you my project. First of all I remember buying this car and telling myself I would keep it stock no matter what... 3 months later I couldn't keep my word and decided to do some modifications. So here is a little list of what it's done, hope I can inspire some other people to not keep it stock -TA technix airride system -Borbets T 7,5J front 9J back -Ramair air filter -Stainless steel exhaust cat back -custom phone holder -omp steering wheel -momo steering hub -Custom tail lights and here are some pictures of the car:

Only a few years ago, were closing good family run dealerships, and replacing them with inconvenient located glass fronted buildings on industrial estates. The farce was these big new showrooms often had nothing that was ready for you to buy and take away (once it was registered), and everything had to be ordered from another location anyway. Too often staff who often seemed unknowledgeable about the product ordered it, and offered no real gain over using a keyboard and mouse at home. To be perfectly honest, having online sales is ok, but having huge geographic gaps in the servicing and warranty repair network isn't. A nearest dealer that is nearly an hour away, and has a 2-3 week waiting list for service is far too common. They need to sort that especially if closing down some retail sites. Skoda are becoming rare where I live (too far to the dealers), whilst at least 10 other marques within 4 miles.

You should clean all that pubic hair off the instruments before it goes for a service! It was the plugs that fixed it, not the snake oil.

How could you even think of telling Battery Man to forget about battery charging? You sound like a man whose battery charger is inappropriate and who needs to read his owners manual 🤣

We've had it on a mini before where we bought cheap hubs and the magnet didn't give a decent pulse to the sensor. I don't know if SKF are what they used to be any more, or have just become another Eurocarparts "Quality" brand. I normally stick with Febi. Also, always worth giving the cables down to the sensors a really good check for damage. They can look ok, but have a split in when you flex them about a bit.

? Where Skoda fitting GPF's in 2015 to 2.0TSI's? That was still Euro 5 emission engines going to Euro 6 and a good while pre WLTP. I thought the first GPF's were fitted to 1.0TSI's and well after this.

First is one for your vrs no hook Second is the ate ones You've already been sorted but this might help someone in the future

The battery can indeed be partly discharged, even when 'brand new' - depending on the ambient temperature while in storage, a lead-acid battery CAN self-discharge by up to 1% per day. Not difficult to see that a new battery could easily be only 50% (or less) charged when fitted.

A VRS has the same front calipers as my tool eater, Lucas calipers for 288mm discs, GSF have given you pads for ATE pattern calipers which won't fit.

I just completed this installation on my facelift Octavia mark 3 estate. I used the MQB Wire + Camera A kit. I had to go and get a flexible net curtain rod as suggested by others to pull the cable through the tailgate. Otherwise it was very straight forwards even though I've not done anything like this on a car before. I ordered some bog standard trim removal tools at the same time, which were also a necessity.

@Black_Thunder Indeed. Thousands of DQ200,s. Millions World Wide were part of the recall 2012 excluding Europe that got a service Campaign 2014 to change the synthetic oil to mineral and a software update. New MCU's in New Zealand, 100,000 mile / 10 year warranty in the far east, Then Recall / Service campaign 34H5 in 2017, Software, then 2019 another Recall in Australia covering 2009-2016. Then issues 2015 on Clutch Upgrades and Software. So we are now not talking Hand Brakes but e-Brakes as this is the Mk4 Octavia section. There are PHEV's, Mild Hybrids, Petrol's and Diesels and DQ200's , DQ381's & DQ400-e,s and Auto Hold & Stop Start. No manual parking brakes. As to the foot on brake, good advice, if stopped a while and brake lights annoy those behind, weather conditions etc, use the parking brake. If you go to the Fabia, Kamiq or Scala section you will find members with cars with a DSG & a manual hand brake.

@toot the VWFS pdf you supplied has nothing VWAG oil specifications. It is simply a policy booklet for used car insurance from VW UK. " ŠKODA Approved Used Warranty cover is administered on behalf of ŠKODA UK by Volkswagen Financial Services (UK) Limited". It has no authority regarding which oil a main dealer is to use

Skoda Octavia Estate, 2015, Mileage 33000, Purchased Oct 22 from Bristol Street Motors Derby with 3 year Vertu Motor assured warranty (£600 cost). Engine warning triangle light & coolant temp warning when vehicle getting up to operating temperature. Taken to trusted independent garage on Thursday who diagnosed the faulty water pump problem with shroud not operating. Cost to replace & fit water pump, timing & aux belts with genuine Skoda parts £943 including vat. Asked Vertu to approve repair under warranty. Immediately contacted by Bristol Street to say replacement water pump & belt had been fitted prior to sale to me and said that claim would have to be made to Skoda under parts guarantee. Tried to contact Sinclair Skoda on Thursday & Friday to discuss getting guarantee repair but they failed to respond. Now stuck with car I cannot drive. I will have to reschedule repair with local independent garage and seek resolution via Motor Ombudsman or legal routes. In any customer focussed industry the repair would have been approved by Vertu under warranty and for Bristol Street/Vertu to claim reimbursement from Skoda! Any advice please on model of Skoda water pump that should be fitted?

Why so hostile? I guess you just don't like being proved wrong! I actually go on FACTS, not some ill-informed internet troll. My knowledge on automotive engine lubricants is deep enough to be head-hunted by Fuchs UK to work for them! Your point is? And you clearly demonstrate your lack of real knowledge about automotive engine lubricants! All VW Group engines must only use oils officially approved by VWAG. 'Suitable for . . .', 'meets specification of . . .' or any other similar weasel words are just terms used by snake oil sales folk - when referring to OEM specifications, be they VW, MB, PSA, Renault, Dexos, and the JASO and JALOS collectives.

Hi Graham. I've had a similar problem with a mini-spider suddenly dropping down in front of my face while I was on the road. I don't have a thing against spiders - it was just the sudden appearance which might have made me lose control of the car. This isn't something I've tried myself, but offer it up as a relatively cheap / simple solution: www.bhg.com/homekeeping/house-cleaning/tips/natural-spider-repellents/ Good luck, and please let the group know if you find a successful solution. Ken

I was out with the car this morning and I am please to say my cabin rattle has disappeared. Whether it was the thump or the silicone spray that did it is anyone's guess.

I know this is old thread but the problem you are talking about is explained in this video at 00:45 if someone is interested:

Sadly just the one! A lovely 3:0 Audi, but with a DSJ box that I never got one with, hence back in a manual

Thanks mate, I’m new to all this briskoda and what not so unsure how to use it properly, it’s a 2015 octavia vrs tsi 220. apologies for the confusion and thanks for your help 👍🏻

New Builds are New Type Approved models. Mk4 Octavia are not new as type approved before 2022.

Welcome to the forum. @ApertureSmight be the person that can help with the Cruise Control. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/368177-te-roomster-motorhome/page/2 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/471124-skoda-campster http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/493694-campervan-conversion-help-please

If you look at the tiresize calculator with 225/45/17 then click on the "Alternate Tyre Sizes" tab for "16" you will get a list of tyres in green and how near they are in size as a percentage difference. Now you need to check the availability, range and price of the sizes offered to see what's actually available and at what prices. 225/50/16 - 205/55/16 Then of course you might be with a silly insurance provider that takes exception to you changing the wheels and tyres from the size the car left the factory with, as has been cover in various other threads. Plenty of insurers don't worry about such things but if you have a cheap policy and/or with a very general family type car provider they might.

16" VAG wheels should fit over 280mm discs, and I think 288mm.

Hey guys! finally got another Skoda, Fabia VRS this time! it was super cheap (sub £1500) and has 12 months MOT! had tons of modifications over its lifetime including: 2.5 inch full boost hose kit Dark side intercooler Egr delete Miltek full exhaust with oval tip Decat pipes heat wrapped Braided fuel lines Polo gti seats Mk1 Audi Tt 312mm discs and calipers Brembo pads Braided brake lines Skilla 6 paddle clutch Single mass flywheel Pioneer stereo we Stanceplus coil overs Polybush rear dog one, wishbone New bottom arms/track rod/ front wheel bearings, sump, fresh service, new sills and undersealed Aem air filter Boost gauge inside pod vent Remapped to 180 bhp Engine is on 130k! bodywork is really not great but I don’t mind! has a few issues like boot lock not working, to be honest on a whole all door locks seem to not work or are intermittent which is a concern, anyone know what I can do? I guess just replace the locks?

Thank you for all your replies. I appreciate that for a vehicle of this age and mileage, a huge factor is how well it was maintained and treated by its previous owner(s) and is something I will be checking in detail before buying any car. My main concern is that the vehicle does't have any catastrophic issues like the old pd engines with the oil pump drive shafts failing or clutches on later models which would fail and machine through the gearbox casing causing it to fail. I heard there are cases of oil burning in the 2.0tdi engines fitted the mk3 superb, does anyone know how common it is or which years are affected? also, is this the kind of vehicle a competent DIY'er can maintain? I understand people's points about 4wd being unnecessary in some cases, however I relatively often need to negotiate muddy tracks and fields and find 2wd cars to be pretty limited, even with good tyres (Michelin cross climates) also when towing and on wet/greasy roads I find fwd cars often struggle for grip, especially when pulling out of inclined junctions. Its just a nice feature to have and doesn't seem to impact the running costs too badly. When it comes to maintenance I also have adopted the same proactive strategy with my cars, changing oil regularly (every 5 to 9k miles) and changing other fluids such as manual gearbox oil and power steering fluid, it was quite surprising how dirty they were.

Drove around 150 miles on the A1 today and made no particular efforts with regards to maximising fuel economy. Have to say I was impressed with the MPG 😃

Also, it is recommended, to prolong life of the gearbox, when you park, put gearbox in N, then engage electronic handbrake, release brake pedal and let it hang on parking brake and then engage P. I do this because my parking space is a bit sloped and if you immediately let it sit in P the car is held by the gearbox.

That will be the 380 or 381. Definitely not the 200. The dq200 dry clutch box is almost exclusively fitted to engines smaller than 2.0.

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Where I think the Skodiaq trumps a Rangey, especially the new one! And the Evoque... And the Velar...