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Driving away at it happily for a while, just ticked over 38k and it **** the bed. Lucky was heading to the farm, a few hundred metres out had to pull into a ditch for some *******s in an i30. Go to pull out and the throttles really dead, choking the engine. It was driving absolutely perfect up until then. Magically got it to go enough to get to the farm gates, once it gets over 4k (when the second barrel opens) it was fine. Sitting idling at the farm and it was slowly choking itself out till it died. Restarted it and again, any throttle it'd die, and it'd slowly die idling. Held it on the choke up to the shed and there it sat. Took apart the carb and found the accelerator pump had a tear in the boot. So tried to warranty the keyster kit I got and amazingly, they've sent out another kit. Ordered another kit from the first crowd hoping it'd get here quicker, inspite of it being ordered first, and "only" coming from Germany. It was delivered at the same time as the keyster kit from Canada. Nice. Anyway, put the new pump on, cleaned it up a bit and. (Note I used the kit from Germany not the keyster one) Still did it, albeit it wasn't instantly dying. So took it apart again. Cleaned it out again. And. I mean I'll take it. Bit of a flat-bottomed around 3k but it cleared out. Maybe there was some of the solvent left in it from when I was cleaning it and that was choking it, maybe there was **** in it still somehow. Don't know, not too worried since it's running again. So now I have a kit spare. Not too mad all things considered since it's having issues now and not in a month's time at retrorides. And the fact it didn't do it when it was being tested, because God knows when I would have got another date. It's not home yet, gonna give it some driving tomorrow evening and if its fine I'll take it home.

We have a DQ381 here in an S3 and it spat its output shaft tail bearing out, the bits went through the gearbox and wrecked everything, a complete write off. https://flic.kr/p/2oJp4Je

Thanks @kodiaqsportline @toot for all your replies. This has clarified things for me and I definitely wont be running off immediately to change my cam belt as I have just hit the 5 year mark. I understand there might be a risk involved with this and hopefully I am not the chosen one to be reporting of a cam belt failure on here

Changing topic slightly, reading my renewal seems the maximum NCD after 9 years is 24%, this may be a false memory but I seem to recall as a youngster in my 20's (so the 70's) you could get up to 60%.

Yes, they are - ET46 vs ET44 - 2mm difference - good enough for the girls I go out with :).

I know it's not relevant to this forum but I just want to introduce you to the newcomer. For the record, Superb remains in the family anyway...

It is a DQ381 with a Service Schedule, guidelines, recommendations or specification of 80,000 mile oil changes. So not out of service interval. The Link i posted to a thread has my post with the sorry tale of failures people are having from various threads. Get in touch with SKODA UK.

@sdb So we have a long story shortened. More info needed. You say an Independent garage. Even out of Warranty you want an Authorised VW Group technician checking the gearbox, maybe Skoda / VW involved in having the gearbox tested / examined. Lets get the whole story please. ....................... There is no DSG with a 4 year Oil Service. (The Skoda chart i am showing below is wrong in showing 4 years unless by chance that is 40,000 miles by then.) There is a 40,000 mile service with a DQ250, and a 80,000 miles with a DQ381. ? So how or why is there a major crack in the gearbox? Has the car been in an accident? WHAT WET CLUTCH DSG IS FITTED, IS IT 6 SPEED DRY, DQ250 OR A 7 SPEED WET, DQ381? I have a post where i compiled DQ381,s with issues as posted on Briskoda. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/514323-which-dsg-gearbox-is-fitted-to-a-2020-model-year-superb-sportline-plus-280 This is about a DQ200. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/513192-dsg-repair-costs-should-skoda-pay

Axles now painted, stonechip first then 2 coats of glorious hammered black. Nitromors stuff cause the shop didn't have hammerite, and I wasn't bothered going anywhere else. Looking real sharp. Bit left over for touch up once it's in too. Also sealed up the firewall from the time I tried chopping it out for the vrs one. Feels like I'm getting to the point where Everything's lining up, and I'll just be able to bang everything in like that.

Don, this is how the car was when I bought it last August. I think likely factory rear tints as the one previous owner was an old boy. The tints aren’t as dark as they look in that pic in reality.

@simsim - The air itself is free; maintaining the compressor and airline costs money though.

I use the 10 BAR compressor at work. Although this wont fit in the back of any of my cars. I have a small 12 volt compressor at home which is fine to just pump the tyres up. Don't rely on the pressure gauge on the compressor though. Thanks. AG Falco

Why would they be even the slightest bit interested in a fault on a 7 year old vehicle?

I think your logic is flawed.

Yep mine did this before I asked the dealer to turn the fake sound speaker off and it stopped this rattle when under acceleration.

I would question that. Normally it is still up to 60%

RAC wanted to increase my insurance from £383 to £487, with a bit of shopping around I've switched to Aviva for £395.

With VCDS/OBDeleven etc you can delay the boot locking

I suspect you will find that if you reverse towards a wall or your garage door, when you get a red, if you stop car immediately, and handbrake on, you will discover still about 0.5m (19 inches) before you hit it. It is useful to check this so know how much reserve distance you have.

That's easy then; fixing it at his expense is his problem.

DNPA would make sense as it's the same code for the engine in the Golf Mk8 GTi.

Ah ok but that's not what was said above, it said up to MY21 and after MY21

Skoda don't give out software updates and the latest maps will only update the maps. However, if you add your headunit details to this thread https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/477657-amundsen-mib2-firmware-update/ I'm sure someone will provide you with the latest 0480 update. Yup, you can enable the GEM (Green Engineering Menu) with VCDS/ODBeleven etc. There is no hardware support for wireless AA or CarPlay on this generation. A 3rd party adapter is the only option I'm afraid 😞

Thanks for these details Toot. I had been looking at https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-fixed-price where I saw the 4 year interval - but you say that is wrong. How do I identify which gearbox I have? The car is a Superb Estate SE L 2.0 TDi DSG 150PS / 67 plate It has 7 gears. >>>So how or why is there a major crack in the gearbox? The garage says someting has come loose inside and cracked the housing. >>>Has the car been in an accident? No. It made a brief clanking noise as I pulled away from the the drive on Thu, then, about 100 miles later stopped dead on Sunday with "Gearbox has entered emergency mode: Reverse gear not available". In fact, no gears were available and the gearbox oil was spread across the road.

Bite their hand off!

I would also start by checking for broken wires between the car body and the hatchback https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497263-sencom-tailgate-loom-repair/

If you put it in the dealer you will have not only the inflated and exaggerated labour charges but they wont do any bodgery when they can hit you for the price of a new bumper plus painting, of course they wont mention that until the car is in pieces.

Up to MY20 and after MY21 the belt is 210,000km (60,000km in dust rich Countries)

Worth looking at wires in rubber boot between body and rear tailgate as prone to breakage affecting tailgate lock and lights.. My passenger front door lock kept failing intermittently.. By chance whilst installing rear camera found broken wire ,repaired and all came good.

Just to add an update to this, I was told about a little black sticker in the back of headlights you can remove that opens up 2 square holes in the back of the lights to allow air in and moisture out. I also noticed that there was some water lying on white hex screw adjuster on the light directly below the gap on the wing and bonnet. Applied a little bit of rubber mastic tape over it to try and divert the water. Not sure how much of a difference that made. But so far so good. There's been some heavy rain showers here since and not a drop of condensation in the light since. I'll add a bit of tape back over the holes and see how that goes.

When my SAs die I'll be swapping out for B6 so maybe I'll be the first on this platform to try both. The issue I have with SAs is the inconsistency. They feel good when cruising. But then when below 50mph they might feel great and supportive or they go soft and wallowy. There's no telling which way they go. The firmer B6 is far more reliable in use. Not had any mechanical issues yet and that's with lowering springs and a stiffer rear bar.

If you have the 3 button remote, the middle button unlocks the boot only. Don't leave the key in the boot as the lid locks as soon as you close it.

Sent the file, let's hope it can sort out the mess

Front camera can be connected straight to the fuse box with piggyback connection. Use search, there are several topics on this.

Aye for the passengers

Whilst new to me, the car has just turned 4 years old with 16000 on the clock. It's a 1.5 petrol DSG 4x4. It's my first Skoda and this was my first visit to the dealer for a service. I've read plenty of horror stories about visits to dealers and I agree, you have to have your wits about about you, but I can't fault the service I received. I dropped the vehicle off, they gave it the once over and told me what they recommended and i let them get on with it - they even changed the batteries in both key fobs as part of the service.

Colourful sky this evening and the Buck Moon has just put in an appearance 👍

19 months wait but worth ot. Drove 500km drom dealer to home and enjoyed the ride.

It’s the cloth on the dash…pretty clear in the pic

All Skodas that use five wheel bolts per wheel, use the same M14x1.5x27 wheel bolts, with OEM part number WHT001812.

save yourself £70 and buy a £5 brake fluid tester, I bet you have part exchanged the car before it actually needs a brake fluid change.

Short instruction how to do the upgrade: 1. Extract archive directly to the USB stick (Meta/Data folders should be in root). 2. Insert USB stick into USB port 1 or 2 (I used USB-C adapter). 3. Turn on ignition. 4. Hold "MENU" for few seconds to enter service mode. 5. Select software update. 6. Select USB1 or 2 (it's highlighted if detected). 6. Follow the instructions. The first two steps (MCU/CPU upgrade) took me about 25 minutes, and two long reboots, the rest like 5 minutes without reboots. Don't interrupt if nothing happens even for a few minutes, it'll progress. Process looks almost the same like in this video:

In a FWD vehicle? I think not. My reaction to the comment was the same as yours though, these vehicles but for the electronickery are way too heavy and powerfull for FWD, were the OP have done the same with the systems inactive it would have taught him a valuable lesson. It's a shame that new drivers are getting into computer controlled rocket ships instead of learning how to control a vehicle and what the results are of unconsidered control inputs by driving a wheezy ratty RWD vehicle with drum brakes and skinny tyres, if they did they might look at the road a bit more to judge the conditions and less at their phones.

Hi, cannot help with the cause but a fix for the MOT is get a blue 12 volt warning lamp and connect to the main beam light so when the High beam is on the warning light comes on so sorts the MOT problem

Welcome. Surely having a light bar fitted correctly will not affect the warranty any more than having a tow bar and electrics at the other end of the vehicle, but you could always check with the warranty provider. That would be Skoda would it not. No idea if you have Skoda police or emergency vehicles in Australia but they do in New Zealand and they will have additional lighting. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/491168-driving-lights-lightbarspotlights-etc http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/488296-led-spotlights http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/457554-let-there-be-light-160w-led-bar

Here are a few photos of my mk3 which I collected just 8 days ago following a long-drawn-out search for ideally another L&K to replace my mk2 one that got written off in April. The previous owner has removed all Skoda and L&K badges wherever possible, just glad they were unable to do the same with those on the interior. I must admit though I do kind of like the fact that it doesn't shout about where in the range line up it sits and the only external non logo badge is the Superb on the boot.

I managed to take a picture of mine; not sure you're also interested in this one, since you mentioned version 1900 - which is not the case for me. Summary: car built @end of August '22, delivered end of Sept.'22 with SW 1896. I had several OTAs since, but the one around March or April this year made the infotainment reboot after the start of the car... Funny thing: I didn't have the key with me (I was parking my other car returning from work), but I decided to give it a try. So I opened the car via the Skoda App and tried to see if I can start the infotainment and furthermore the Engineering Menu. Surprise (at least for me): it works!!! @djmartzian once you get into the Engineering Menu (hold for about 3 seconds on the Menu button) you need to click "Software Update". I didn't take any picture, but it is the first option out of the three listed in that Menu. For those interested: check the video below - in order to access the Red Hidden Menu with the Software Train you need to click the first line (the one that the guy in the video is not clicking). The system will seem to reboot in some sort of "recovery mode" where you can choose to update or to see Software Info.

I was going to suggest that but thought that both were probably loaded close to the limit, now we have the numbers there is some room for adjustments and that is the obvious one. I am usually loading a flat load space with no rear seats so this is of no use to Swirly with the family but I try to put all the heavy items in the rear footwells and also the front passenger footwells, anything heavy as far forward as I can get within the limits of practicality, at the rear behind and over the axle is generally just my small backpack with clothes, the coolbox and coolbag etc. Another thing to check when the rear suspension is sagging like that is that when you couple the trailer look at the front suspension and not the rear, you may well notice that the front of the car actually lifts as the noseweight creates a turning moment about the rear axle, this I don't need to mention is very undesirable. All these things can happen yet the weights remain within the specified limits showing that a common sense approach is needed. With the stiffer rear springs on the Yeti and my penchant for a higher than normal noseweight the lifting of the front of the vehicle is very noticable meaning I have to redistribute the trailer load.

My trusty VRs took me from home via Gloucestershire to Atia, Hargita, Romania in one go with stops only for tunnel, one border control and fuel. 24 hours' driving between two of us, nearly 1,600 miles plus the same home over three days week later.

Common problem, i have done mine, i didn't replace, i just used metal penny washers on them and they have been fine for over 50k