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I made a new entry, since the previous post was already too long. I found the Octavia iV Manual, in Section "Starting and Driving", subsection "Select Drive", there's the following info: Now the next part is what interests you: Basically, because of those "Other conditions" I recommend you don't stop the engine and restart it immediately simply because you want to use EV-mode. Allow the hybrid-system to decide when all conditions are met and it's fine to use EV only... You won't use too much petrol before the car will validate the electric mode. If that's not the case, then contact your Skoda dealer, 'cause something's not feeling too well on your car. Look for the "strike-through E" sign on your VC, when it's off go into EV-mode.

Hi all Bought a SD card with 2022-2023 maps from www.satvavshop.co.uk David was most helpful The Karoq now has satnav updates . Would highly recommend this company ....

The outside diameter of all four tyre sizes is almost identical, so changing between these sizes won't reduce the wheel arch gap. Outside diameter of tyres 205/50R17 636.8mm 225/45R17 634.3mm 225/40R18 637.2mm 225/35R19 640.1mm 19" rims when fitted with the very low profile (ie. very little sidewall height) 225/35R19 are very prone to pothole damage. That might explain why the Octavia MK4 doesn't offer 225/35 tyres. If 225/35 were offered on the Octavia MK4 it would be 225/35R20 rather than 225/35R19 because the tyres on the Octavia MK4 have an outside diameter about 1" bigger than the tyres on the Octavia MK3.

Jacked the car up, got the wheel trim off from behind plate, got the studs out, wheel off, clamp off wheel, wheel on and tightened up, wheel trim on. Clamp was gone when i looked 20 minutes ago, missed seeing it being collected or pinched. I can see where the van is parked now off the Kings Highway.

It'll be the normal issue that causes this Check the 30a fuse 16 in the engine bay fusebox. It tends to corrode causing overheating, bad connections and will disable all the lights you've mentioned. Ideally, you need to open the fuse box, clean/tightening the fuse terminals and possibly replace the fuse👍 Random example:

I wish Skoda Australia would offer Phoenix Orange or Royal Green on the Octavia's here. I love the Royal Green. Currently, you can get Phoenix Orange on the Fabia, Kamiq, and Karoq. Funnily enough you can only get the Phoenix Orange on non-Monte Carlo Kamiq's - although two arrived by mistake in 2022. In my opinion I think that Phoenix Orange only looks good on the RS and Monte Carlo models. You need the black accents to make the orange pop.

Yes , I've had the same happen on doors that are normally not opened. ( search for my posts ).. The drain holes are in the bottom of the door of course & are very close to the lip formed by the outer skin. It seems to me that with the door shut and seal partly compressed the seal does to a certain extent block said drain hole, so with a finger move the seal away from the inner face of the outer skin then run a old rag the full length of the door. having found where the drain holes are do as Mickvrs220 has suggested .

The so called motor journalist not even planning where there were 22 kW AC chargers that the Zoe could charge 3 times faster than on the 7 kW chargers, they not heard of ZAP Maps. In today's EV market, looking at price and availability one can consider an early ZE50 Zoe rather than a ZE40 and get it for half or less of the MG4 and with similar range. With the MG one has to put up with the tacky infotainment interface and the Zoe 9.3 inch screen running Google and Tom Tom is the best I have used in any car, even so called premium marques. Happy with charging of 22 kw DC and 45 kw DC, always only splash and dash say 20% to 60% to give me another 100 miles. I seem to get well over 4 miles/kWh in mine. Did they even pump the tyres up properly ie a few psi about book as do most Zoe drivers do, even the manual says add 0.3 bar if car already warmed the tyres. Use eco most the time and the Zoe will get over 250 miles on a full charge, was one of the best 4 years ago and still is for a B segment EV. Still nothing obvious to me to replace the Zoe with except a TESLA model 3 standard range on salary sacrifice RRP £39.9k so no luxury car road tax.

Due to high number of requests let me make some short summary of units that can be installed in Octavia III cars. I have focused only on MIB2 / MIB2.5 units, to indicate differences between them. Simplified Bolero MY15 unit 5Q0035819 (without DAB) or 5Q0035820 (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY16 unit 5Q0035819A (without DAB) or 5Q0035820A (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY17 unit 5Q0035819B (without DAB) or 5Q0035820B (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY18 unit 5Q0035819C (without DAB) or 5Q0035820C (with DAB) Bolero MY15 unit 5Q0035840 (without DAB) or 5Q0035842 (with DAB) Bolero MY16 unit 5Q0035840A (without DAB) or 5Q0035842A (with DAB) Bolero MY17 unit 5Q0035840B (without DAB) or 5Q0035842B (with DAB) Bolero MY18 unit 5Q0035840C (without DAB) or 5Q0035842C (with DAB) Bolero MY19 unit 565035840 (without DAB) or 565035842 (with DAB) Amundsen MY16 unit 5Q0035864A (without DAB) or 5Q0035874A (with DAB) Amundsen MY17 unit 5Q0035864B (without DAB) or 5Q0035874B (with DAB) Amundsen MY18 unit 5Q0035864C (without DAB) or 5Q0035874C (with DAB) Amundsen MY19 unit 565035864 (without DAB) or 565035874 (with DAB) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035020x (with DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035021x (with DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035043x (without DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035044x (without DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035020x (with DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035021x (with DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035043x (without DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035044x (without DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) All MIB2 units (as well as Columbus MIB1 which is not listed here) work with 800x480 pixels screens, either 6.5 or 8 inch. MY15 unit support MirrorLink only (no support for SmartLink). SImplified Bolero units do not support rear view camera and voice command. Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY15 and MY16 have old style (rotating, monochrome) menu, with only 1 skin having 5 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. They don't support for APP key in 8 inch FL screens. Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY17 have old style (rotating, monochrome) menu, with 2 skins having 5 or 6 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. It may also support Media Command (depending on FEC.SWaP codes installed). Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY18 has both old style (rotating, monochrome) and new style (pictures, color) menu, with 2 skins having 5 or 6 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. It may also support Media Command (depending on FEC. SWaP codes installed). Columbus units have built-in DVD drive and HDD for maps and audio / video files. Only Columbus units can play video files from USB/CD/DVD/SD. Every MIB2 Columbus unit can be reworked into MIB2.5 unit if required. MIB2.5 Columbus requires new 9.2" screen 5E0919606D. Every Columbus unit can drive directly subwoofer and central speaker (although this setup is not officially supported by Skoda). "x" at the end of Columbus units model number is letter A/B/C/D. Can also be missing. It makes no difference, just indicates original SW release family. Every of listed above units can be reworked into Plug&Play version (no need to visit SKODA dealer).

To answer some of those points, the battery is only a few years old and is regularly charged by the car being used 3 or 4 times a week. No stop-start (thank goodness). Using fairly fresh E10, but last time this happened (years ago) was in E5 days. Air filter is reasonably young, but airflow at cranking speed is pretty minimal anyway. I didn't "hear" about spark plug insulators absorbing fuel, that's just my own thoughts trying to reason out what's going on. Lambda sensor is effectively out of circuit during warmup, and in my view during the crank/start phase the injectors will be pumping fuel but if it doesn't ignite for any reason there's only one place it can go - out of the exhaust valve and into the catalyst/exhaust. There was never any misfire in the normal sense, more a total non-fire. Once I tried the full throttle technique the cranking seemed more vigorous and startup happened reasonably readily. The plugs are due a change, and the new ones are sitting on the shelf nagging me so it will get done once it's not so flippin cold out there ! Anyone else have a view as to what's going on ?

VCDS Lite (freeware) is adequate for your car. Download from ross-tech.com. Needs a KKL/ FTDI cable to interface between car and laptop. Very cheaply available. Test compression of each cylinder before doing much else.

Not really a myth, I've had 2 VAG cars throw a glowplug light and both times it was the brake light switch on the pedal, replacing them cleared the light, they are a one shot fit, although it was a 2003 Passat and a 2004 Golf so maybe they redesigned the brake light switch?

Gary missed the i out. Try this 👍 https://www.satnavishop.co.uk/

@profcalculus Unless you want to be a fashion victim with a bad back, look for one with "small" (17") wheels, because it rides better.

Greetings Prof, welcome to the forum. Hope you find the car that suites you.

Hi I've just updated my Columbus mib 2.5 with your link above the VW lighthouse labs one , SanDisk SD card 64gb formatted to ex fat , 4096 bytes , extracted with 7zip . Extracted without errors and updated in the car without issue . I had failed with the Skoda update last week , I got the errors everyone else got but this one worked perfectly . Thanks to everyone for your excellent info 👌

https://www.am-online.com/news/aftersales/2023/11/28/garage-fined-by-dvsa-for-fitting-illegal-aftermarket-parts Also another related article on Evo about noise-detecting roadside cameras: https://www.evo.co.uk/news/22762/government-noise-cameras-aim-to-fine-drivers-with-loud-exhausts

Can't say about Octavia IV, but here's an identical discussion on CUPRA Forum - it's actually the very same hybrid system from VAG, so the same conditions on parameters for the EV mode to be validated... https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/fully-charged-car-and-then-it-starts-the-engine.474356/#post-5045932 I would strongly advise against this "solution" that you use to get back into EV mode. Apparently it's not really clear for the users why the system decides to go directly into Hybrid mode with ICE-ON, even when the HV battery is charged at 100% (as it happened to me also), but surely there's a reason behind this behavior. It might be related to: - outside temp, or to the temperature of the HV battery, - could be a bad status of the 12 V battery, - a set of several conditions combined - such as outside temp. vs. the temperature requested by the user to the climate control - a case when the car decides it's more energy efficient to heat via the ICE rather than via the HV battery which can be quite inefficient at low exterior temperatures... - there might be a long time since the ICE was last used - I had several consecutive weeks of exclusive EV-mode driving. I looked into the (Cupra) User Manual and the info is pretty-scarce on this topic. They only mention 3 conditions that need to be met in order for the EV-mode to be available, but in my case, when I had the car starting in Hybrid-mode with ICE, all the conditions were met. So there must be something else behind, in a second layer of validation conditions - which is not visible to the regular user of the car. Have a look into the Octavia User Manual, but I assume you'll find the exact same conditions... it's the same car. Finally, I would strongly recommend that once it happens, allow your car to run in hybrid mode for a while; after some time or small distance, the EV-mode will be validated (it will no longer be greyed-out on your infotainment), normally there should be an indication also on the Virtual Cockpit (as the Manual mentioned). In my case, after 2 or 3 km of normal drive the EV-mode was available and I selected it without restarting the car. This only happened to me 1 time in 2.300 km since I have the car. I drive it daily to work and back home (12-13 kms each way) and charge it every evening. When it started with ICE, it was in the evening, around 4 deg Celsius outside and I was preheating the car from the App before leaving home. When I got to the car and started, it went directly on ICE, even though the HV battery was at ~60%. I've had colder evenings since that event, I preheated the car in those cases, but it never repeated that behavior. So I don't know what's the secret behind... 🙄 The car was driven exclusively in EV-mode for 3 weeks (some 400 kilometers I would say) before it decided to start on ICE. Normally it shouldn't be the case for me... The car is 3 months old, roughly 2.300 km onboard, charged on average 6 days/week. According to some diagram I've read online (if I'm not mistaking @Jorgeminator also uploaded some info on a different topic in this Forum) the 12 V battery is charged: - while driving the car in any mode (hybrid or EV); - while the HV battery is charging (charging station). So I should be safe, as long as there's no faulty hardware on my car.

@Graham Butcher 1 x 50 kW DC with a 43kW AC tethered on the side, and next to it 1 charger with 2 x 7kW ports. Just the same as the other newer charger in town 1/4 of a mile away. http://boydbrothers.co.uk Installer of choice or no choice.., they put in the charger hub near the A90 and the new chargers in town. Angus Council. https://connected-energy.co.uk/case-studies/dundee-city-council-and-swarco Hit or miss. I sometimes get a 52 kW from it. 3 1/2 years ago it was out of service for months just because the catch on the door was broken and the SWARCO maintenance blamed vandals which it was not. Then one trolled me on ZapMap and Plugshare. Very low temperatures it was not starting, and that was a real PITA. For a Year Charge Place Scotland had its location on the map as 1/2 a mile away and i told them weekly and asked since the Maintenance Manager was often at the charger could they not just confirm the location instead of me directing people to it. But then their HQ is 1/2 a mile from Broughty Ferry yet the Broughty Ferry Charging hub showed for a years as at GlenFord & the Council Yard at the North of Forfar. Incompetence. But i tell them that regularly. & i used to tell Angus Council Councillors and the Convenor but i have given up now on that.

if it is a wheel bearing your previous post saying it was there at 30 to 40 and again 60-70 does tally. the reason its worst at those speeds is that the drone resonates at those frequencies thus making it louder. it changing speeds can be due to further wear changing that resonance point, but it will alway be harmonic - 30 and 60 and 120 (if you got there ), 45 and 90, etc.

In addition to the above, the build sticker on the boot floor will tell you what it came with from factory. My registration also returns 19” wheel/tyre suggestions. My car came with 18”s though.

You can download the official workshop manual at erWin Skoda, although you will have to pay (8.4 euro) for an hour's access. Find repair docs in pdf form via the Individual vehicle information tab on the homepage. Download link will not appear until fee ('flat rate') paid. Document D3E802E70C0-1_4_132_kW_TSI_engine.

My experience is that when pretty cold and a Rapid charger / 50 kWh is playing up, maybe started but slow or cutting out then getting on a 7 kw / 11 kw AC can be a God send, even if just to get you enough into te battery to another Rapid or to where you want to be going. (Single charger issue in Scotland, even at hubs with a few Rapids that might be out of Order or blocked by muppets that could not care less about others, even when there are overstay penalties. The cold / below freezing temps are not affecting my battery noticeably with the MINI electric as it did with the Corsa Electric. It is the temperature chosen for the interior and with the MINI the heated seat on is not affecting the high power battery and neither is the heated rear screen. The AC if needed to be demisting does have an affect but while not raining or snowing i can have the sun roof up a bit or the windows cracked open. Not an option is sitting charging in the rain or snow and sitting in the car but the fan and AC can be on then. Not as good as these were in the Corsa when sitting in and then i had wind deflectors which were really necessary to keep a dry interior for when going to be parked up in the coldest weather. I am on All Season tyres and would not run on anything else other than full snow tyres if i need to. Range does not matter if you are stuck or can not get into EV chargers where the bay is deep with snow or iced up. * Frozen Water, not a ICE Vehicle blocking it.* ............ First Vid. Running in GREEN mode not Mid or Sport and with Full Regen. Must feels like a slug and i will only try that setting with Cruise Control on and it makes a few miles difference and you are maybe better off, Green + would be OK as well apart from the Heating / AC is disabled, top speed limited and the 5 or so extra miles might be critical with it in Cruise Control. I get peed off though and go back into Sport, low regen and get the same miles and power used and do not have any traffic including HGV,s having to pass me. If i need to hypermile better get behind one and really get some range.

Hi all new to the forum. This is my wifes Mk2 1.9tdi sport that I have been moding for her. So far I have removed the Egr and cleaned out the intake side of the head. Sport panel filter and 2.5 inch turbo back stainless de cat exhaust. H&R coil over suspension with all bushings replaced with powerflex bushes. Pendelton remap. I have replaced the rear drum brakes with a Vrs rear beam and Vrs front callipers. I replaced the standard alloys with vw ones with 202x50x16 tyres, fill the arches better with no rubbing.

That wasn't your question or part of it, if you don't want it writing off then don't claim, if you want the money for the repairs then follow Roots suggestion and do them yourself with the money your insurers will pay you over and above the retained salvage value, I have been doing that all my life. I have had zero income since Covid and will not see my pension for a few years yet, if someone hit me up the back making the car an uneconomic repair the above is exactly what I would do once again. If you dont have the ability to do the repairs then you are back to looking for someone to do them using second hand parts. I answered your question about how to prevent your treasured car being written off, I'll add something else for nothing, resist forcefully any attempts to take away your vehicle by either your insurer or the TP one, at that stage you will have lost everything including your ability to negotiate the salvage retention. I underlined the words because the insurers agents will act like it is no longer your vehicle and you need to be very forcefull to disabuse them of that notion.

The 18s are a correct size. At purchase you could choose 18 or 19 inch wheels. Some tyre websites don't allow for the choice.

The thermostat and water pump in this engine is guaranteed to failed🤣 Even you replace it now, it will still fail again. Some aftermarket water pump has a better quality.

Really? I suggest you don’t hold your breath. They can’t even agree on the specifications to allow private electric scooters on the roads which, I think, have been legal in most EU countries for years, yet you can now legally ride a bike on the pavement here in Kingston! Seriously, “Shared Use” they call it; idiotic I call it….

P&P

So I fitted a Whiteline 24mm rear sway bar a few months ago and had it set to the harder of the two settings on the bar. It’s the Whiteline bar for the Mk7 Golf R and which will fit seamlessly to the AWD Superb. Fantastic upgrade and a great match for the Eibach Pro-Kit springs I had fitted previously and with DCC set to sport. The bar doesn’t make the ride harsh at all, but the vehicle now corners much flatter and tighter than before with much better steering feel. I would be wary of fitting a 22mm bar. I watched some YouTube vids of people who fitted 22mm bars to their Golf Rs and were very underwhelmed. Given the Superb has an even more ‘comfort’ oriented suspension than the R, I don’t think 22mm is enough. And don’t be afraid to get the bar set to the harder setting either!

Had a look at this again and realised that the standard plan doesn’t include MOTs so the cost over 24 months at £20.25 is going to be £486 which shows little saving on the normal pricing. The All-in plan does includes MOTs but also 2 years Roadside and Warranty; however I already have Roadside until April 2025 and Warranty until November 2024 so it seems there’d be no advantage in taking that either. When I was at the dealers recently and we discussed service plans I was told it’d be very worthwhile, although I can’t see that either plan shows any real benefit. Have asked the dealers what figures they used or if it’s possible to perhaps ‘tweak’ the standard plan to include MOTs but yet to get a response Update - given the special offer prices were only on offer until tomorrow I contacted the dealer to see if they’d given any thought to my emails since what they’d previously discussed, albeit briefly, conflicted with the Skoda email I’d received. I again asked if she’d got some other plan in mind that wasn’t readily available, perhaps she was ‘tweaking’ their standard plans to suit? She started up by telling me about the options available so I again reminded her that I’d already got warranty and roadside cover so that discounted one plan and there were no MOTs offered by the other, so no benefit in taking that. These facts had already been emailed to her twice! She then asked if I had a service plan already 🙄 And these are supposedly service advisors 😂 Don’t you just love’em. Needless to say no service plan has been arranged, I’ll wait and see what’s offered in the future when existing roadside and/or warranty run out

That 18 kWh i3 being only 15min later than double battery capacity and newer Zoe is pretty impressive. Rapid charging is the enabler for driving beyond home range. It's the main reason I went with Leaf over Zoe. I think they could have done it not as slow in a 2018 Leaf 40, or any other similar capacity car with rapid charging. These early EV are perfect for secondary family car as local runabouts or daily commuting car. Save the bigger ICE for family trips. That's what I did for ~3 years before COVID.

There is a photo in new brochure on Kamiq SE page, clearly looks like full set of climate buttons, not on main screen https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/e5530aa7-058e-4978-8855-79f9f20111d6

300-350 GBP

Unit installed in TMBKE7NE6H0160919 is 5Q0035874B - Amundsen MY17. It will work OK with MY18 display unit 5E0919605M and APP button will work as expected

I also did put Airtec intercooler painted in black in my wife's Smart 451 Brabus turbo engine. Great one and fit

Bumper is properly cut. New plastic mesh with large oppening is painted glossy black. New EBC BLUESTUFF NDX brake pads picked from post office today. SPEC stage 3+ clutch and OEM main seal arrived today from USA. Now waiting for center hats to be hard anodised in Zagreb by Tiz metali,and than assembled and balanced by www.elmet.hr. Than EBC prescribed brake in procedure for the new pads and discs. Than SACH Performance clutch with full faced organic disc to be thrown in garbage and replaced by newly balanced my old machined SPEC SV21ST flywheel with new stage 3+ clutch together with new ARP 25mm bolts and EKAGRIP flywheel disc for extra safety.

@pab567 another Mission for you

**RESOLVED** I thought I'd post an update for the benefit of those who helped me, as well as anyone Googling this in the future looking for a solution. In short, replacing the LP fuel pump and replacing the battery fixed the problem. The LP pump was just a guess but at this stage I was happy to invest the money, and the battery diagnostics initially came back fine (67% life, no issues, mechanic said he didn't see a reason to replace it), but once I explained my issues with the battery draining rapidly after a few days of no use, he said it may be a case of some faulty cells. As a new battery is pretty cheap, I asked him to go ahead and replace my old one with a brand new one. The car runs great again, including starting much quicker, and crucially no more fuel rail pressure sensor faults (having done 600-700 miles now since the new LP pump and new battery). The main thing that I would do differently next time is to immediately replace the battery when buying a ~10 year old second hand car - it would have avoided some battery issues over the past 3-4 months, and would have also helped pinpoint any other faults more quickly by eliminating the battery as a potential source of issues. Thanks again for all the help and input, I really appreciate it!

Excellent, thanks, I'll give that a go in a couple of weeks on my next long drive. Cheers.

Pull the seals to one side and give a good wash with soapy water ,its gets dirty and muddy under the seals ,this worked when my back door filled up been ok since 👍

Thanks for the warning. I´ll take a look to the workshop manual

Now at airport …. Taxi was an immaculate Superb L&K with 190k on the clock !

The VW one any time soon. All eyes on MartiniB. I've been checking the German Skoda board, they have not found the file link yet. Unless there is a delay it should be arriving in the next week or so.

I used a plastic tyre lever and plenty of brute force. The best part to start at is one of the corners that would be nearest the tail lights. It feels like it's going to break but seem pretty resilient. I used a wiper arm puller as the arm seemed welded onto the spline. Mine was pretty rusted inside the gear assembly due to blocked washer jet allowing fluid to run into the gears. A bit of cleaning and it's back working. Also the trim went back without too much trouble.

Not on this setup there isn’t. The steering rack is sealed to the car body and the actual column doesn’t leave the car. The shaft isn’t what is sealed, the rack to the car is. I understand what you mean as it was an occasional problem on Mercedes and needed greasing, but the mqb platform doesn’t work like that.

You for sure don't buy a 280 for economy! That said, on a gentle motorway run it isn't totally terrible. I stick with the 'normal 'tyre pressures myself, a bit of grip is sensible in my view. I specified mine with a space saver from new so I assume (rightly or wrongly) it is OK with the Haldex. The furthest I have driven on the space saver is maybe 150 miles (was a Sunday trip home and no tyre places that were open had the right size) and in spite of the constant 'ACC unavailable' warnings etc, no long term harm has occurred so far.

I just updated to 1800, I have a Skoda Slavia in India with the Bolero system. I can confirm that the issue with S23 Ultra is finally resolved! Attaching images.

Front and rear Velvet Red colour coordinated badges by SuperSkoda (Kopacek) fitted! Removed the original badges with the dental floss method then some glue removing stuff and Magnum wooden sticks (reasonable excuse to buy and eat a couple of Magnums...). Good news is that the boot lid for the 2021 Superb III with the S K O D A badging and no recess for the badge has exactly the same curvature as the boot lid with the recess - so the standard boot lid badge fits. I reduced the size of the locating pins as there is no where for them to locate (!) but other than that, no problem. Front:

I have an Octavia, not a Superb, but I replaced some badges with colour matched ones and with the VRS ones, I replaced them with black badges. The rest I just left off for good. I just do not like chrome. I bought mine from Superskoda, a bit expensive, but I wanted quality ones not cheap ones made in China.