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New driving buddy WoF passed for another six months. A couple of minor things to check out before they become an issue but generally all good.

Hello there! here a new user, fantastic car. I think, to drive something with such a good quality of driving, smoothness, comfort, silence... you need to spend a serious amount of money and go for BMW Serie 5, MB E Class, Audi A6, Volvo S90... I was considering a Passat GTE variant (twin brother of this superb, same plug in engine). But the space is much better in the Skoda and the build quality is, at least the same as the "premium" VW, if not superior... Its a 2020 Superb combi iv.

Whereas its unheard of for an incompetent garage or garages to effect the same repair several times on an ICE vehicle without actually finding the cause isn't it 🤔 No different to knowing where the speed cameras are or having to find out. Or planning an autoroute journey with breaks for food and fuel away from the expensive services. Both of these are more pronounced in France where Shatnavs are not allowed to give speed camera warnings and the fuel at Autoroute service stations is massively more expensive.

Heated and folding were an option, yes. Electrically adjustable and heated only were standard.

S/S is on all the time (unless my toddler is asleep and don’t want to risk waking her!). That being said, I do tend to fall into a habit of not letting it kick in most of the time by lifting the brake ever so slightly. Maybe with a new battery it’ll be a bit ‘fresher’ on the restart as well. You’ve tempted fate on your battery now…

The switch or the latch? Does the external boot switch work? Does holding the boot button on the key work?

This is the exact same battery I have. Original battery and showing no signs of giving up, altho having said that now🙂 S/S used all the time.

Lets get this right. 7 kW chargers have been called FAST Chargers for years now. They are Slow, but a PHEV that only charges at 3.6 kW might use them, or someone in an hour or 2 at services that just needs a FAST charge on a 7kw Charger. Or people that want to 100% in a BEV and finish off the last 10% or more on the AC. Rapid chargers are 22 kW-43 kW AC or 50 kW for many people and called RAPID Chargers.

Don't forget to allow for inrush current of the solenoid valve - likely to be much higher than holding current.

Does the car have start/stop? If not there will be nothing to program.

Digits on the negative post are 26 14, so I'm guessing it's the original battery on there. Nearly 10 years for a battery is probably good value, but time to suck the cost of a new one. I know the cranking is low on it and that's probably why it takes a few seconds to start. I'll change that and see if that helps the lights issue, as it needs doing anyway.

In addition, if you do not want to play with control units, you have the possibility to unlock/lock EPB via OBDeleven app (Workshop\Brake pads replacement). I am starting to compile hardware to perform the brakes upgrade, I will post details when I do it.

I personally don't rate Zapmap. It used to be very good way of showing charge points back when every one is important and EV are few and far in between. But its introduction of membership has meant its free service hasn't kept pace with all other free apps out there. Zapmap locks filter by minimum number of charge points behind membership paywall. ABetterRoutePlanner, Electroverse and WattsApp all allow filtering by minimum number of charge points for free. It's always the first filter I set. I mainly use Electroverse to find charging hubs these days, prefer compatible with Electroverse RFID card. ABRP for checking long distance charging stops.

It is a simple case of understanding the exponential growth of EVs. Some Motorway service stations still have the pair of 50 kW chargers that the Forest Green owner put at these motorway services but they are upgrading all of them to have 8,12,16 or so charging point ie Gridserve are, with their half a billion Private Equity money. TESLA are doing their own thing and have some banks of 8, 12, 16 of their TESLA chargers at various services and now with the version 4 charger non-TESLA owners can charge at these stations with contactless credit/debit card. ZAP MAP shows the rapid installation of new chargers where we are going from 50,000 charging points to 100,000 charging points which will take about another 18 months to do. It is not a theory about EV drivers knowing which are the "good" service its known by previous visitation and seeing the installs there or being installed and knowing they will be up and running in a few weeks and by checking with onboard or Smart phone Apps which take about 30s to a minute to consult. Apps such as Electroverse from Octopus, onboard Google or Zap Map and A Better Route Planner. I drive all over the motorway network as my office are Aberdeen, Cambridge, Cardiff, Glasgow, Liverpool, London-Heathrow, Manchester, Tilbury and I visit family from Brighton down to Soho so I must have seen them all, do about 30k miles a year in a mixture of EV and Hybrid, mild and full. EV drivers I have met at charge points exchange infor while the 10,15, 20 minute charge is going on and point to online publications which highlight the new electric forecourts, services that have just been upgraded, the standout ones like Rugby which is such a good location going East-West or North-South. Also the ways to get cheaper charging using Electroverse RFID card which gives discount on many charger networks and just adds the cost to ones monthly billing so one my not see a cost for months. Happy days.

There is a proposal of a 3 year delay on 10% EU tariffs to help sales of electric cars in the UK. The EU Commission will approve the plan. Likely this will make no difference in just 3 years to EV battery production in the UK or the percentage of materials and components from the UK or EU used. It is a Brexit story as that is how this tariff came about which will just get put back till 2027.

Random image catchup

NOK means Not OKay

great work

Hi, I have just recently purchased a 2012 Roomster Scout 1.6 TDI LHD. I'm hoping to use the community to assist me with information relating to questions that I may have keeping my Roomster on the road and resolving any problems that occur.

@Breezy_PeteI have downloaded the applicable schematic (after a bit off a faff) and will progress this tomorrow when its a bit warmer Thanks again for the assistance

The main relay is on the bottom row of the relay holder in the cabin, in the middle; position #13. Not sure how easy it is to access. That is the 14-way connector, yes.

Once again, you have misunderstood what I said. The charging stops being referred to were not because of the length of time they had been driving, more to do with the inability to charge on destination charger at the point of destination. They might be at work, or like me at a national event like an International Air Show watching an air show and then facing a drive which would be extended due to needing to charge. Therefore, there is absolutely no need to take a break. Where did the visiting young relatives come into the equation? I was referring to one's own children and the wife etc. 🙄

There was mention of motorway services having slow chargers with reference to the discussions of the JOG to LE trips that YouTubers have recently done.

You know we've got a 'Pets of Brisky....' thread? Had to look up WoF. Though topical, turns out it's not Wheel of Fortune! 😁 Gaz

I worked on a rolling road for a while a good while ago and ICE cars do lose quite a lot of their original power, if they even had it there in the first place. Not unusual to see the back wheel horsepower showing barely half of the published engine horsepower. Rather naughtily we would sometimes use the doubling feature on the rolling road so the client was not so angered by the fast that his 150 hp, at engine, car was actually showing way less than 100 hp at the back wheels after a few tens of thousands of miles but as long as we showed him that the car was producing 10, 15, 20% more power when we handed it back they were happy. Electric cars do not degrade in performance or range as much as ICE cars I would say. Tesla can send an over the air update that can give another 50 or 100 hp as they have quite recently. Might be part of the reason insurance has gone up as it has made already very quick cars go to another level.

New WoF and new Woof. Top result I think

@EnterName thanks for your reply. I can see both sides of your argument. The car is in excellent condition with marks appropriate for its age that I can live with. My issue with the boot is that it appears to be blistered with rust underneath. Yes it’s very small but I’d rather get this addressed asap so that it doesn’t get any worse. There are a couple of stone chips on the front bumper I’m happy to take care of myself but the rust on the metalwork I’d rather leave to the pros. Can’t get in until the NY but will update on the repair when it’s done and what the body shop say once they have seen it.

@Graham Butcher 7 kW chargers then maybe 6.6 kWh, so 21-25 miles added in an hour. On a 11 kW charger 10.5 kWh in, 35-40 + miles in an hour. Some were or are fine with a car with 22-43 kW AC charging. Just a pity some with DC Rapid Charging go on a 22 or 43 kW AC tethered charger getting only 11 kW and depriving those needing AC charging as their Rapid charging. We are where we are. We are going where we are unless maybe a WWIII or pandemic or other world disasters. VW Group were doing OK with Hybrids but cheating the ICE emissions and now they have PHEV Hybrids with issues / snagging faults and also Connectivity but that comes down to them taking stuff in-house and then going into denial quite a lot. plus the best engineers not working for them because they might get thrown under a bus and take the fall for the liars and cheats at the top.

Double checked with the guy who just did the flywheel and he confirmed it is outside.

So my garage came back to me and they identified the parts for one they literally did yesterday on a Golf and it's clearly the main waterpump based off these part numbers, he sent me this snippet of the invoice they did, obviously this is Golf parts, so maybe not the exact same ones for me. He said they do one of these like every other week at the moment, same issue, you'd think there would have been a recall, but then I suppose if the part lasts 5 years, even if it has a fault in it's design they probably get away with it I'll try my local official Skoda garage anyway, see how there pricing compares. Thanks everyone!

@dimushor have you asked your self, for what reason this coding got comment revert changes to original values -> Change (8)Leuchte17TFL R BLK ......... C17 to Daytime running lights - > Not Activated -> Change (10)Leuchte17TFL R BLK ......... CD17 to 100 - > 0 -> Change (8)Leuchte16BLK SLB ......... C16 to Daytime running lights - > Not Activated -> Change (10)Leuchte16BLK SLB......... CD16 to 100 - > 0

Our 2018 karoq started to do that recently. It progressively got worse until driver control would not open passenger window or do the auto up/down for the drivers window. I took the switch out to check. The internals of the switch were broken. There are lots of tiny plastic 'rockers' I there, some of which were broken. Got a new switch from Amazon for £15. Problem solved and quite simple to fit. Works well, although some slight difference in light colour of buttons, but nothing major.

Yes, I've seen the VCDS procedure here... https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/578065-How-to-Properly-Re-Calibrate-and-Adjust-Adaptive-Bi-Xenon-Headlights. That's one option where I'd need to recover my VCDS cable from the neighbour who has borrowed it and carry out that procedure. However, I'd have thought that calibration using ODIS would produce similar results.

According to the gknautomotive spring catalogue, the Yeti 2.0TDI 4x4 uses 1K0411105DN front springs and 1K0511115CR or 1K0511115CS rear springs. According to the Kilen/Lesjofors spring catalogue, the Yeti 2.0TDI 4x4 uses 1K0411105DM front springs and 1K0511115CR or 1K0511115CS rear springs. Front coil spring 1K0411105DM 2 violet paint marks L66 1K0411105DN 3 violet paint marks L67 Rear coil spring 1K0511115CR 1 red paint mark and 2 green paint marks 0YK 1K0511115CS 1 red paint mark and 3 green paint marks 0YL 1K0511115CT 1 red paint mark and 1 brown paint mark 0YM

Just wanted to say Hello to everyone here as a new member! I've bought my fabia mc in September. my daily driver broke (not the first time!) and I was left with 3 weeks waiting for parts (clutch) so had to get rental and it was Fabia.. the story ends after one week with rental car I got new my new FABIA MC 1.0TSI 95HP 5DR Black/White

Crash bar drilled 9 times 51mm, and now also lower part with smaller diameter.

Hi All, Just writing to let you know that I'm offering valeting and detailing around my locality of SW London/Surrey. From a maintenance quick wash, to a full machine polish and ceramic coating, engine bays, interior etc. I'm certified and validated by IDA and trained at the UK Detailing Academy. Always been keen over the years but decided I'd ditch the overbearing boring finance career for it. Happy to chat about it all day. Cheers, Lee

Overboost pipe polished and bracket for the head welded and fited like a glove-perfectly

Disconnect the fronts?

Can be switched off and on in settings too

Think the mirrors retract automatically when the cars locked. As for the self-locking on moving off, the time delay for this can be set in the menu.

For #3 I already had my music on a "normal" mini flash drive, so just bought a 90 degree adapter so the cover will close if I want it to. 90 degree USB-C to USB adapter like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186082467905?hash=item2b53612041:g:AcAAAOSwxQFlBe8Q&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0LKr6cZc5QzYQ5eeVMXTAWx%2FQj6BpUoAKwsTk2LevJEJyfzZ2vRu9qNEj1mf8Qz3%2BnEI3gz9GTwFd7RA4o2D88JLuKPMM7WtXJpu%2BhAX7ABBMxIc8uuju1iTx8gR%2BCeH9hQ97smNm0XQ39osDls4C%2FrKZ%2BAKpqUuOcU599AB%2BNlLLsSnoWuSgvBxVnVFPoi6ApRuTrjRlpyFDEGyrPL8rNczYbLaIPhr8bVuL%2Bhn2%2BwdeyptIYBTL9eLuxr6OdLwln9qhDd89i1xriKii2YIWWk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-y76LmFYw Flash drive like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386177112684?hash=item59e9f31a6c:g:iXAAAOSw4ARjRXy~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwGn8g5vz5zk0vdkhFaB4Qux077YkMTyXIZA5OrOx1XNbqVS0AqsfJ3mlWK7qn2JSEh8iRa%2FVVUvln%2BjePZx9Ve3dwH8VUzu301PiDfM%2BzTqRdazFs4NihpISd9HfYsbuK%2FZRxuAlSzPBgfHLepBw9bKb2wf5IvvkM9CdoawEDMnLDSZJQOQAa7EmjOCl2aS1%2FgCiSSKQyUCY1%2FZVktxGp3BILn8pidBGqzQ28sq6TWIRLfFmV2MkOBbjdZ%2FYY8TU%2FQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUMSg8bmFYw

You can download the official workshop manual at erWin Skoda, although you will have to pay (8.4 euro) for an hour's access. Find repair docs in pdf form via the Individual vehicle information tab on the homepage. Download link will not appear until fee ('flat rate') paid. Document D3E802E70C0-1_4_132_kW_TSI_engine.

I bought the whole part of the Release Handle Switch from Nirro Ltd. It was second hand and quite straight forward to replace.

Yeah, LED are ridiculously bright at the headlamp but strangely, in a lot of applications, they’re not the huge improvement that Xenon was over Halogen.

According to my brother, who was a lightning engineer and designer for 35 years, during which he worked for Thorn, GE and Schneider, that statement is, I’m afraid, a complete myth; they won’t become brighter with use. Additionally, it is a myth than an LED will last for 20,000 hours. It might still “illuminate” (albeit the vast majority of Far Eastern LED’s are cheaply made and poor quality and may last 20% of those hours) but by that time, it will also be 90% less efficient than it was when it was new and is therefore, effectively useless.

Just make sure your car is unloaded and preferably on level ground too, otherwise you'll have a wonky beam that doesn't align. It's good if you can mark on a wall where the beam should be.

Just fitted some Audi RSQ3 wheels (8,5x19 ET36).

Yes, they are - ET46 vs ET44 - 2mm difference - good enough for the girls I go out with :).

It's all in the software - it determines the shocks characteristics. Hence why the DCC mod is great because it changes the shock's characteristics by using the software algorithm from an Arteon which is similar in size, weight and shape as the Superb. when I bought my car new, I was using Individual Driving Profile with DCC set to Sport, 100% of the time. Couldn't use Comfort, and Normal wasn't great - too bouncy & wallowy, and would bottom out too much. after I got the Eibach Pro-kit springs, I was using Individual Profile with DCC set to Sport 80% of the time. I would use Normal Driving Profile other times, but car would still bottom out. It wasn't as bouncy or wallowy though. after I did the DCC recalibration, I was using Individual Profile with DCC set to Sport 30% of the time. I would use Normal Driving Profile most of the time, as car was no longer bouncy or wallowy, and would rarely bottom out. after I did the DCC Mod, I'm using Individual Profile with DCC set to Comfort 100% of the time. The car is no longer bouncy or wallowy, at all, nor does it ever bottom out. I now only switch to Sport Driving Profile if I'm doing spirited windy twisty roads. It's amazing wat u can do with software. APR have recently released a new product, which does a similar thing as the DCC mod, but costs 10x more. It's their Suspension Control Module (SCU).