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Merry Christmas from Gandalf and I.

Lovely (? full) Moon still visible this morning..............

Says it all really. Happy Christmas to everyone. 👍🏻🎄

Public charging & the difficulty of using existing chargers and hubs is an issue for many and one not being addressed quickly enough. It is getting attention from some in the media now. http://bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-edinburgh-east-fife-67726590 http://bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-south-scotland-59549298 Pictures is at a Hub in Dundee where there is room, a canopy for cover in bad weather or even very sunny conditions. The cables might help many, the screens on the chargers still not great for wheel chair users or maybe others, not so tall etc.

The scuttle connector is a green 10-way. Pin 6 carries a yellow wire from ECU pin 77 to fan control module pin 11 (of 14-way). I think this one is probably low speed command. Pin 7 carries a yellow/red wire originating at ECU pin 79 and going to fan control module pin 7. This is the one I suspect may have a problem. If it were mine I would check that yellow/red visually and then electrically for short and open circuit.

I had a look at wiring diagrams, and on AVU with the basic A/C there are two command wires from engine ECU to fan control module. There's a connector in the scuttle area where these pass through. I suspect one of these wires, or its connections (which commands full speed fan activity) may have a problem. Details with wire colours and pin numbers at each point to follow when I get a chance.

No, that will be different pipe diameters throughout. Slight leaks, and corrosion on outer skin of back box are simply not worth attention. Most parts that you might replace with will probably fail sooner than what you have.

If you have not already done so fully and properly check the state of charge (and if possible state of health) of the battery, I wouldn't assume that the Skoda garage has, unless they proved it. Have you checked that the battery terminal post clamps are secure (don't twist) and main earth connection is good? Start with the basics, and in this case easy clean-hands stuff. Put the battery on an appropriate battery charger maintainer (lower amps for longer is my preference) checking the car's Owner's Manual and consulting the manual for the charger for correct way with both (and slowest charge rate for my preference). Don't just think your battery is fine without doing proper checks. The computers run on 5v which gets a bit too thin when the battery is well below snuff (as you see I'm not technical). As you had all the warnings on the car it's unlikely to be your OBDEleven at error or the car's port socket or wiring. You may have more than one problem happening at the same time or one issue (like low battery) causing, or a contributing cause, to one/some/all other problems. Failing that it looks like you might have intermittent connections/wires/computers/programs problem(s) with the electrics/electronics or their parts otherwise the Skoda diagnostics (depending on what it was, or was done) would have picked up on it. Whenever you having (starting or) electrical problems having a fully charged battery will not hinder things but can help or even cure somethings but having a battery that is too low in charge can hinder or even stop diagnosis and/or repairs. It's so easy to charge the battery to full and if it doesn't need much it won't take long to find that out and whilst the charger is doing its work you can be doing anything, in warmth and comfort, more rewarding and pleasurable than working on a car. Leaving a charger maintainer on overnight and it's working while your sleeping, difficult to get easier car work than that. Good luck let us know how you get on.

I kicked this post off back in November 2019 when I decided to fit All Season tyres on my car. 4 years on and it was time to replace my tyres again. The Maxxis AP2s that I opted for previously had served me well. Actually Far better than I anticipated. No matter the season, heatwave or cold snap, or the weather conditions, I found they always gave me confidence. The tyres provided excellent grip, (including the odd times on my steep snow covered road and drive which neighbours struggled or failed to negotiate), braked effectively. They also gave a comfortable ride, and were quiet too. I couldn't have wanted much more. So, what tyres to buy this time around, as unfortunately, the Maxxis AP2 appears to have been superseded. A pity as I'm fairly sure that I would have opted for another set of AP2s in a flash. As was the case 4 years ago, I made my decision after reading reviews & test results, as well as considering my location (the Midlands, UK), my driving style (Mr Average), my car (see below) and annual mileage (very low). I still own my humble but trusty and much appreciated 13 year old Fabia 2 HTP estate. But no matter what the car, I still like to have a set of decent tyres that give me confidence when driving in any weather but without paying a fortune. My choice of tyre in the end was the Hankook Kinergy 4S 2. I had a set fitted last month and It will be interesting to see what I think of them compared to the Maxxis AP2s. Since having the tyres fitted the weather has been unseasonably mild so I'll report back next month when we may have had cooler temperatures and maybe even some snow! In the meantime..... Merry Christmas everyone.

I have owned a skoda superb mark 2 170crdti for three years and enjoyed the car immensely. Because it had a good service history and low mileage I decided to use RRG Skoda in Bolton to service my car and I took out a two year service plan, which worked well for me, the dealership were very helpful and I was so satisfied that in August this year I signed up for another two year deal. As a pensioner on a fixed income I started to pay monthly and booked an annual service for December. Disaster struck at the end of November whilst driving on the M60 in Manchester when two cars piled into the back of mine and the insurance wrote off my car. As you would expect I got less than the cost of a replacement for my low mileage FSH, almost perfect car. I decided to buy another superb this time getting the 140 powered version, higher mileage but 2 years younger, still a mark2 but a face lift. I contacted my Skoda dealership to tell them about the change in car, cancel the pre booked service and asked them to transfer my service plan to the new car, no dice!! VW financial services who administer the plan refused to transfer the plan and also refused me a refund of my payments to date, they did say I could transfer the plan to the scrapyard the Insurers had sent my car to. So a warning to anyone before they take out such a plan, if anyone steals your car and you don't get it back or you write off your vehicle VWFS will try and steal your payments. After a great deal of fruitless complaining to VWFS I wrote a review on Trustpilot, within a week VWFS contacted me and offered a refund as a goodwill gesture. Anyone in this situation should try this approach, a victory for the little person up against a very large business

JR I spoke to VWFS several times I pointed out that I had made payments on a service contract and whilst I was willing to continue to make all the payments due under the plan they were unwilling to provide any of the services that would eventually be paid for. I was not asking for anything not contracted for, I had received no service products from them and they would not transfer the plan to my new car, this would not entail any cost to them greater than the one they had offered as extras needed at service were chargeable and as the cars were near identical no difference in price for a new plan. I asked them to escalate my complaint to the next level and then when they gave me a refusal of refund I could take the complaint to the financial ombudsman. I also asked my local Skoda dealer who had sold me the plan for help, they agreed that I was being treated unfairly and took up my complaint on my behalf with vwfs. prior to receiving their offer of a refund I had" paid for cake yet had not eaten any cake" . There is a term in the contract where it states no refunds or transfers, my warning is that under certain circumstances through no fault of the contract purchaser they cannot utilise the plan and they cannot transfer the plan, as in my case where my car was written off and that prospective purchasers should be aware of this particular drawback. I am not complaining about the eventual outcome of my complaint I am merely warning others not to make the same mistake I made. You state I had the benefit of the plan, this is not true as I received no benefit it is not like insurance or warranty where you have cover for a set period, the service plan is to cover two years servicing and the plan had not been used and never would be used . Skoda admit that their service plan is an effort to maintain customer loyalty for owners of older cars they incentive being Skoda service at a special savings price, by refusing my request in the first instance they were alienating me and creating the opposite to the intended effect. I hope my detailed explanation better defines my reasons for sharing my experience, so others may be warned and that when you complain about unfair treatment and get knocked back you should continue your complaint as often in the end you will succeed.

I decided to go ahead and change the heater blower motor (part ref 5q2819021b) and this has fixed the issue. My fan speed is behaving again as it should and all heater controls are okay.

Had this constantly showing in our 2020 Karoq, noticeably when we hit a bump in the road, cornered a bit sharpish etc. We’d only had the car a few weeks so I called the dealer who assured me it was ok to use as normal, it was simply a software issue. Left the car with them for a day and it’s not cropped up since so assume that what the dealer said was correct and they’ve not simply whipped out a fuse 😂 I did read somewhere, possibly here, that it may be an issue with the fin on the roof not fitting as tight as designed and it could be water ingress? Worth investigating if the software route doesn’t clear it?

Yes this is why I asked the question.

The point of ACC is not Autopilot. It's not intended to take over steering and control fully for you. It's meant to reduce driving efforts, but you are still driving. If you know how to use it, may easily cross 100+ miles without touching the break or gas pedals. This reduces strain and stress as you still drive, but the car manages a good chunk of the 100s of small adjustments each minute. If you are observant enough you can drive only by changing ACC settings, letting the car manage things. I wouldn't trust any vehicle to drive me in the day and age. They are unreliable and unsafe. I do trust for them to relieve some of the load though, and for 140k+ miles have never let me down once, so that's a pretty good record I'm my book.

This just now was on the BBC news site so over to the man in the region for comments, Rooted, Scotland. 'My electric car dreams turned into a nightmare' - BBC News

-Gasoline Particle Filter- I don't know for sure whether the 1.0 TSI/95 HP version has GFP, but it probably does. -Gearbox 5 gears -This always happens, regardless of the engine temperature, both immediately after starting (temp < 50 degrees) and after warming up (temp = 90 degrees), regardless of the car's load - the same when there is only the driver, the same with a full set of passengers . It does not matter whether any power receivers are turned on (and all power receivers function ok). The battery is in good condition (the Start-Stop system works well), charging also works properly. -The issue of whether I am driving with too low engine speeds is irrelevant here, because the issue concerns the car rolling AFTER I fully release the gas pedal. I will write graphically once again: I am driving in gear no. 3 on a smooth road, at a constant speed of 55 km/h (about 1900 rpm), I take my foot off the gas pedal, the car starts to slow down normally and within a dozen or so seconds the speed drops to about 31 km/h (about 1200 rpm. ) and so it is spontaneously maintained for any length of time. I rode like this as a test for about 2000m. The car also maintains a constant speed when going slightly uphill. I did not make any corrections to the car, although I have VCDS and scanned the car for errors, there were no errors. Of course, I read the manual, but there is nothing about it... the car was bought used. I have the history of the car (previous owner - company, it was driven by a sales representative) but most of the entries are strictly service activities, changing oil, brake discs, brake shoes, spark plugs, etc. There is no trace of any mechanical/engine failure... The car is serviced every 15,000 km. Regards

I have always been a BMW driver. That was until the latest BMW 5 series. I purchased the 2021 530i touring with only 800 miles on the clock, and 3 months old. After a few months without fault, the rear hatch would open on its own when parked up. I took it to my local BMW dealer who after having the car for two weeks stated that they could not fix the problem. After a shouting match in their showroom making sure that all around knew that the dealer could not fix my car after 2 weeks and this left me with a car in which the rear hatch would open at will allowing thieves and the weather to have a great time. However i had the right to return the car as unfit for purpose and that’s what I did. I had to contact BMW UK to get the dealer to hand my money back however. Then I moved to Honda, but their new civic has a major steering fault I find out to my cost. So that had to go. Now I am trying Škoda, which I hope will be a safe bet. I think that manufacturers are being forced to make their cars meet silly unrealistic emissions targets along with trying to make the cars cheaper to manufacture which is causing most of the problems. Even the copper wiring in todays car is not true copper but a cheap alloy which breaks down over time leading to lots of electrical problems for owners. Best to keep things simple to my mind.

I have seen a few reviews that have pointed out the good charge stations that have properly considered disable and some reviews how other charge stations have clearly not properly consider disabled drivers but the focus has been pretty much only about wheel chaired drivers and nor about other disabilities At the Gridserve Mega stations there are reportedly Gridserve people on hand to help in all sorts of ways which is nice but we have a long way to go to have plenty of them around. Perhaps TESLA will do some of this, perhaps have students doing some helping out at the larger sites to provide general help.

Ignore. You'll hear it if any leaks get bad enough.

I have tried 2 new usb sticks and formatted them both and copied music to them and they play just fine, but when i add the mib folders to the usb and stick it back in the car, it says source not supported, and it wont even recognise the music! 😠 Ignore me, ive been stupid. I went into the nav settings option and saw the sd/usb update option. Clicked that and it is now updating.

I had asked dealer if I should wait until it reoccurred (as mine had only displayed briefly) they advised no bring it in and we'll fix it which they did.

The tyre size and spec you have chosen match the official Superb 16" sizes. The only part that doesn't match is the wheel offset ET50 instead of ET41. The difference is 9mm so relatively small. If I've got this right in my head, this will mean it sits further inside the wheel arch and will look like it's sunken a bit because is 6.5J instead of 8j or 8.5j. However because is a thinner wheel, the overall clearance will be slightly more. I think they might look a bit strange & sunken into the wheel arches, but I've no experience if ~2cm overall narrower wheelbase would have any effect on the general handling, I'd assume none a normal driver would notice.

I had this a few months ago. Dealer said there was a technical bulletin on the issue and it was fixed under warranty. No reoccurrence

The smaller one is fine, only jacking one corner of the car. Depending on spec, without driver kerb weight is 1140-1293kg Gross weight is 1691-1776kg

got it from here https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005005345672636.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.51.2cab1802TWBNo7&gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm + connectors, wires and pins

That's how i defrost my car whilst having breakfast in the winter

Well, I did get caught with paying the extra tax. To be honest I had forgotten all about it, bar that the car had to be under £40,000 new. I looked on auto trader, but the dealers always put the lowest tax rate in their ads. I was for a moment interested in a newish Skoda with petrol engine. Priced at below the £40,000 line. However on ringing the dealer and getting evasive replies to my questions I did a build my car on Skodas own website and with that information find that the car tax would be over £840 for 5 years. To hell with that. However being a complete fool, I failed to ask the question again on buying my car and the tax is £560 for the next 3 years. I am not into green nonsense at all, and sick of paying higher taxes to support it.

So was the battery coded? All Skoda's (as far as I'm aware) from the last 10 years need to be coded when a new battery is installed. So the engine seized due to hydrolocking and you were able to clear it and get it running without any issue with the running parts or internals? Seems unlikely but not impossible. Your comments on the dpf above definitely sound like it needs proper attention. And I would suggest not taking back to the same mechanic.

Best put those that might be inclined to open doors when the vehicle is moving into the rear and activate the 'Child Locks'. Do not lock an adult in the front unable to get out if you crash into a river, unless giving them a 'Luxtude car window breaker'. I am not sure they could be trusted with one if they are the kind that open doors when moving.

Hi, yes fortunately I've had 7k miles now without issue. It was a head scratcher at the time for several mechanics. Hope you get sorted.

Thanks krof for your reply mate, your car look awesome!, I'll look for the same front splitter so

I want to replace the light because I cracked mine but I got it sorted

What form is the energy transfer of this heater? Does it heat the coolant water like an immersion element? Is it a radiant or convector heater? Is it a fan assisted radiant heater? I doubt with any of these that you would feel much effect from 1.25kw within 5 minutes of driving off in a cold car. I have a 5kw diesel heater intended for heating lorry cabs overnight while the driver is sleeping, it is sufficient to heat my workshop but to get any warmth from it in the first 5 minutes you have to stand right in front of it and that is blown warm air.

My exercise was helping with the cooking (on top of the usual drying up & putting away)...mind you having good simple food & a good beer whilst watching a good programme on T.V. & having the log burner on is a nice way to relax!.....😴......nite..nite!

If you topped it up because it had used some oil (cant understand your reference to faulty level sensor) then having 1/4 litre or even 1/2 litre too much is no real problem as the level will fall in time anyway, if it never used any oil at all and you are a long way from the next oil change then I would drain some off.

So to round off this topic with the conclusion. I was having a very senior moment, I had not programmed out the DRLs which was some relief that I had not forgotten doing so, they were in fact still working, the other night as I switched off the lights and ignition I thought I saw some illumination from them but try as I might I could not repeat it, tried restarting, reversing driving forwards, switching off again, - nothing I should add that of course I cannot see them while I am driving and I only notice them when parking at night after turning the headights off, tonight I saw they were definitely working but once again when I tried again there was nothing, I even got out to check. Eventually I found out something I had been aware of in the past the bloomin things turn off when you apply the handbrake! 🙄 so unless you park with the handbrake off and get out to check you will not see them. In the past I had noticed it when parking in front of a reflective shop window so was aware of it. What now has me scratching my head is the other night on a straight main road with no other traffic I turned the switch down to sidelights and could see a tiny glimmer but when I switched it right off there was nothing and the DRLs should have been a lot brighter, I concluded that they did not work at night and the subsequent testing at home made me decide they were not working at all, that still remains a mystery and I will test again, my vehicle does not know if it is day or night, it does not have the light sensor.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/KAM/584/0/012/12000

And to you @numskull

Realised I never posted a pic of my wife’s Enyaq. Had it over a year now and she loves it.

I coded VIM with Kufatec`s dongle, worked perfectly. You must give them a credit, as they are the only ones on market to enable VIM. Which indicates the level of engeering in the company. I suggested the Kufatec`s camera set just for the coding dongle. Here you can get OEM set for cheaper: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/566054634a-rear-camera-set-skoda-32794.html Calibration I believe can be done manually with VCDS, at least it was possible for Superb with MIB 2 headunit.

Once you have removed the rubber bellows in the door space you can unclip the connector. I have soldered mine a couple of times and access is o.k., but not great. I have soldered an extra bit of wire in all the broken wires.

Thanks to Mr Khan we were forced to give up a lovely Freelander and like you, being of the older generation and with the usual knee problems, needed an easily accessible replacement. Ended up with Karoq Sportline 1.5dsg, very pleased with it. As for the forum, don’t just focus on the Kamiq section as similar questions you might have can crop up in other areas.

This software has been verified as working on the Swing and Swing Plus Radios present on the Skoda Fabia MK3 (2017-2021). It's better to don't proceed if you don't have problems with Carplay crackling: the only benefit will be this and it is not convenient for the rest. Reading below you will understand better why. The following, in fact, is only aimed at remedying Skoda's and/or authorized centers's inertia in resolving this serious defect with Carplay which is a potential violation of consumer legislation and is not intended to be in any way an official guide. Before you proceed: - be aware that if you have a radio that is not the one installed when the car was manufactured, by updating you could have serious operating problems because the "crack" that allows to circumvent the Skoda limitations could be removed. An authorized Skoda center would tell you that it is your problem and that they can't do anything, or ask you to pay a lot of money. Same for those who have second hand cars: the radio may have been replaced unofficially and you could have the problem above. - in the same SERVICE MODE menu check that the longest string of the installed version begins with MEN2_EU_SKGPx_ because if it is not, it is practically certain that this software is not suitable for your radio - be aware that those who updated had no problems arriving from software versions 8740 and 8742: if you have previous software, we don't know if it will work. Some users have suggested doing gradual updates (not verified if this is correct). If anyone has updated from previous versions please report it here. - be aware that in any case everything is at your own risk: it seems that many users here have not had any problem with the update. But it is a procedure that intervenes in different components of the car and as in all electronic matters something can go wrong. - be aware that the installation will be fully tracked: the radio will memorize the date and time of the installation. An alert will be activated in the 5F control unit (a harmless fault that can remain forever without creating consequences), precisely aimed at notifying the Skoda assistance network at the first service that an update has been made and this has not been confirmed with the official instrumentation. The warranty is clearly potentially compromised, or they may ask you for money to remove the error (even if it takes them very little). Because on the date and time you did the update the car was not in service in any Skoda center. It depends on how and who manages this alert. Below you will find further information on this alert and how it can be removed with the appropriate tools. PROCEDURE You have to: - use an SD card. It also seems to work in a pendrive but for now no user has confirmed it and in any case it is a less stable device. Always format in FAT32. - download the zip, extract the files and place them in the main folder of the SD/Pendrive. So no subfolders: just the various BT folders, etc. and the metainfo2.txt file. - insert the SD/Pendrive into the car, hold down the SETUP button until the SERVICE MODE menu opens, then open "software update / version" and press UPDATE. The system will ask for confirmation, do a few reboots, and finally, when everything is finished, it will want the Volkswagen "diagnosis tester" device to be connected. Here you can solve it by pressing cancel. The alert will be created in the control unit, as I mentioned above. If you don't want problems with Skoda, you can remove the trace in the ECU via the diagnostic socket: search google/youtube for "Checking software version management" and B201A to better understand how to do it. However, in fact: you need a specific device and software, like OBDEleven or others. Or you can do it without paying a software using a simple OBD2 elm327 dongle and apps like Car Scanner, but error removal procedure can be risky if not done with extreme caution. Nothing impossible, but here too, it is right that you know everything. One possibility, however, is that the Skoda technician could pass by instantly, out of haste or by choice. But if there is a problem, even if it was Skoda who tricked us into doing the upgrade ourselves, you can become the guilty party. I say this because in some parts of Europe there are testimonies of how the 8755 software is declared not compatible with some systems on a prudential basis although it absolutely is in reality (I guess they didn't want to make adequate investments on tests to be sure). They often don't care about Carplay crackling even if under warranty, saying: "Keep the car with the problem, Volkswagen doesn't authorize us to work on this, sue us if you want". Like I said: if we filed a class action against VW we would win and we would have money. But little money and legal fees to advance. And it's a problem that's too ridiculous and quick to solve. About the signature error on replaced radios / second hand cars: surely there is a further unofficial way to remedy this, but you have to search the web and you definitely need at least one OBD2 device. I cannot help you in any way on these issues, including the "Checking software version management" error. It's useless to ask me, I'm sorry. Here is a link to the update that should not expire: https://ln5.sync.com/dl/317e3e7e0#x48kb45t-c729295p-faxdwai4-und5yx7w password: carplay