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Hi all, Giving something back today. Please note, this is purely my experience and point of view regarding used vs new parts etc. Make up your own mind. I appreciate others may have had slightly different experiences. I was recently looking around here, and also various VW and Audi forums, to try and get a handle on an issue I was having (see pic). There was a lot of the usual opinion, some accurate, some not so, and as it seems to be such a common occurrence I thought I'd add what I've had done to sort it. The pic is looking down at the Ad-blue injector on my 2017 Superb 190 Diesel estate DSG. You're looking at Ad-Ble that has escaped under pressure. The warning on the dash is "Reductant pressure too low" (P20E800 code). There was also a message to say ad-blue was running low and the car would go into limp mode in 650 miles. The first thing that I have realised, although it's not always, just often, is that this issue seems to have been posted by others during the coldest winter months. It happened to me the day after the temperature dropped to -8 degrees. I thought it was frozen water [snow] at first as it looks like it but it wasn't cold. It was solid though and chipped off easily. Hot water then cleans it off perfectly. I cleaned it, cleared the fault code, topped the ad-blue up, and drove carefully to see if I could detect the leak. It seemed ok for a few days but then returned so I consulted a VW mechanic I know. He confirmed it's very common across the group brands on this engine. He also tried to convince me to delete the ad-blue system but that's a different post. He confirmed the failed parts (04L131113P - Injector and 3Q0131984N - Pipe) and explained why they both needed replacing together. Apparently, DIY'ers miss this sometimes and end up buying injectors twice. The pipe is damaged/blocked and the pressure build-up can damage the injector. You can see how the ad-blue solidifies. He also dissuaded me from buying used parts. There were some available on ebay but for the difference in price, it isn't worth not knowing if they've previously had this fault and been cleaned. New parts also come with a warranty. I managed to source an injector, brand new, for £158 delivered. He had to source the pipe which was £255 delivered inc VAT. Here's where it gets interesting. I'm handy enough to tackle many jobs. After watching him doing it there's no way I'd have been able to. The pipe is fed through a very very tight aperture at the base/back of the engine below the injector. It then runs down through the chassis popping out along with the fuel line at the rear. It's a cramped space and circa 10 ft to feed. The pipe has attachments at either end that make it harder and it's incredibly fragile. Also, there are small wires, a connector, and the fittings that can all be damaged very easily. He knows what he's doing and it still took several hours. The injector itself was somewhat easier but still fiddly. So. There you have it. If you have this issue, you know what needs doing. If you can find a mechanic that will let you source the new parts then there's a few hundred pounds to be saved. Expect up to three hours labour at worst. Possibly two if it goes through easily without snagging. There's no access point to prevent that though. This was done several days ago and it's running well again with no issues. Feel free to message with any questions. I hope it is useful for someone.

The XJ has been a timeless masterpiece in design. Possibly the most beautifully proportioned and styled saloon of all time (imho of course)

I replaced the OE Silikat header tank yesterday with a non silikat unit. Took about 15 minutes from start to finish. Using hose clip pliers, I removed the top hose from the tank first (which took the most amount of time during the whole job, as it was very reluctant to budge!) then freed-up the plastic hose support bracket connected to the side of the tank. Then, I applied upward pressure on the rear of the tank and using a flat blade screwdriver, I undid the two clips on the top rear of the tank until they’d become disconnected and finally, using both hands, I yanked the bottom fixing out of the hole in the wheelarch and the tank was free. I then turned the tank 45 degrees and removed the bottom hose, and quickly turned the tank upside down whilst keeping a finger on the top hose inlet. I then emptied the G13 into a jug and then installed the new tank, replaced the G13 from the old tank, topped it up with fresh G13 to the top of the min mark and then ran the car upto temp to check for leaks.

"They" being the car supermarket? I doubt they have access to Skoda's database. Call a Skoda dealer and ask the service department.

Unplug and then us a paperclip in the socket attached to the car wiring to bridge the 2 terminals, turn the ignition on and look if the reverse light is on. If you have the use of a multimeter it is possible to check for continuity across the wiring tabs in the switch when reverse is selected.

1 Million electric cars sold in the UK since 2002, i read on the BBC. No idea how many Electric Vans, or they mean Electric vehicles as well in the figures. No word on how many of these Sold / Registered are still on the road or maybe scrapped. Or on SORN, but surely the DVLA know that. Maybe even the SMMT do. http://bbc.co.uk/news/business-68199898 Maybe there are figures somewhere from the Insurance Underwriters how many have been written off because of Fire or Flood or road accidents. Also how many thefts of these 1 million BEV,s.

100%! Car came with 18in allows, and the previous owner bough 16in black steel wheels for mounting winter tyres. During summer, the wheels looks better with the 18in wheel but the ride is harsher, noisier and even the acceleration is worse. The improvement with the smaller wheels is quite stark. As I am not aggressively cornering or driving, I prefer how the 16in wheels feel, both while driving and riding, given the comfort is that much better. I can see how bigger wheels are fashionable and help sell the cars, but engineering-wise they seem like a horrible choice for the everyday driver. Most definitely for the average superb driver. Also, I have tried quieter tyres over the years, and it may help a bit. But the wheel size has much more impact on comfort than the tyre brand/quality. For me, it is quite practical to have two sets of rims for winter-summer, thus I won't throw away the 18in. However, if I were to buy another car, or for whatever reasons I had to buy new rims, I would definitely go for the smallest wheel available.

Decline in hydrocarbon tax receipts. This tax has been broadly the same for many years, wnet down loads in pandemic and is now at a lower level than was in noughties.... https://www.statista.com/statistics/284323/united-kingdom-hmrc-tax-receipts-fuel-duty/

Thought I would compile a list of what we think are the best options to be enabled with VCDS. I'll start off with 1) Anti Hijack Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk

I spent my formative years watching Minder, so it was inevitable I'd want an XJ😁

Hmm, well the place I took it to are the official service agents for Škoda in my part of the country and have been looking after my cars for the last 15 years so they should know what they're doing, I hope. I didn't do a scan myself as TBH I didn't have a clue what I'd be looking for and relied on them to do so. I did however do a scan just after I brought the car, back in June last year, and it did have a few codes, mostly relating to the power seats having lost their basic calibration, this was sorted out with a software update as there was a recall for the car for this problem before I purchased it. I assume that the previous owner never bothered with the recall, or was not aware of it. I just trawled my way through that last scan log, and I was able to locate the module using the part number you gave me and I post it here and as you can see it checked out with no codes found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 10: Park/Steer Assist (J791) Labels:| 5Q0-919-298.clb Part No SW: 5QA 919 298 HW: 5Q0 919 298 C Component: PLA 3.0 12KH08 0161 Serial number: 000305183616266 Dataset Number: 3V0039t____ 0011 Coding: 0371067851 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00156 ASAM Dataset: EV_EPHVA2CAU3700000 009017 ROD: EV_EPHVA2CAU3700000_009_VW37.rod VCID: 0D44A3C50DD20BF274D-8058 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here is the job record for today from them, so I can only assume that they must have accidentally done something when they scanned it last time around?

Update is possible but it requires unit to have swdownload patched first. Screen display is P&P, it does NOT affect any active features, but with your current SW button APP will not work.

Sounds to me like the place u took it to have no clue of wat they r doing. Replacing just the PDC holders will have zero effect on the module or coding associated. I have replaced all 4 PDC holders on my rear bumper, when I changed the rear diffuser, with no issues whatsoever. BTW, the Parking Assist module (#76) is 5QA919298A. Did u do a scan to see wat error is being thrown up? Did the dealer do a scan before and after? Did they clear the error codes after "fixing" the sensors? If there is an error with one of the sensors, the scan will tell u exactly what the issue is. This is an example:- "B107612 - Left rear park assist sensors Short circuit to B+ Intermittent" On the rear diffuser there r 6x PDC sensors, identified as follows:- - Left rear parking aid - Left rear park assist - Left rear centre park assist - Right rear centre park assist - Right rear park assist - Right rear parking aid

U101300 is a fault code and isn't specific to a particular module. It typically means whichever module is displaying the code hasn't been coded. I can't think of any obvious reason for this to occur during a parking sensor bracket replacement. Park assist does use data from the ABS module to determine direction and other a few other things. Still, that doesn't confirm which module has flagged the code up 🤔

Hi, If you have any issues with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line, Regards, Dan.

Hi. If you do have any issues with insurance at all for a change of suspension then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

Hi nickytheshaft ! Thanks you for your reply ! I will folow your advice.

Contact @pab567 we will fix you up good

Great advice, thank you and yes indeed, on 1941 and got a 64Gb USB-A + USB-C stick ready to go! Thanks for taking the time and effort to help. 👍

Skoda are just in the same boat as the rest of VW Group, VW, SEAT and Audi with Smaller BEV,s they have promised, lack of batteries and advances in technology and a lack of need to get on with them as the EU has relaxed the requirement for Euro 7 vehicles to be so low emissions. The ID2 would be a bog deal if VW could get on an actually produce and sell them after all their spin on the great value they would be.

From memory on the front yes but on the rear no.

Perfect, that’s exactly what I needed. Mines on 23.07 so a bit behind. Many thanks for your help!

It does show it in the car. If you go Settings > System Information, look for the Navigation database version. It's basically a date, YY.MM, so my maps were updated December 2023 as I have version 23.12. I still have an active Infotainment Online package, so for me the maps automatically download to the car.

Open circuit voltage isn't the best measurement; you really need to see what the voltage dips to when a button is pressed.

Adding some sound insulation around that control unit is probably the best approach to minimising the annoyance.

Also gone Panasonic but kept old batteries to test the voltages to see when the Low Battery warning is triggered, and when it stops working altogether. New Panasonic battery: 3.2v New Duracell battery: 3.1v 3 month old Duracell battery: 3v, low battery warning triggered (ridiculous - it’s a 3v battery!) Duracell battery at 2.8v: No system response at all The temptation is to keep and extra Panasonic battery packaged and in my wallet.

Wiring breakage adjacent to the connector plug is another strong possibility @GrahamM. Lowish on front face of gearbox.

I would want the Alignment check done on all 4 wheels by someone with the gear and the scores on the doors then the ability to make adjustments if required on front and back if required and on a car where the back can be adjusted. Once they have set up the check especially if FREE they do tend to want to make an adjustment so that they earn money. I would prefer to be paying a professional to do the check, and then any adjustments required rather than a Tyre Fitting Centre with the gear but little idea.

Is it really necessary to remove the caliper retaining bracket? I'm pretty sure on my 2015 1,2 TSI it is sufficient to remove the caliper.

I would go for 4 wheel alignment

I have a 2009 hatch and the tailgate shows open on the display.

As the income that reached the Treasury reduced from VED and lower emission vehicles the government have resolved that one by introducing VED on the BEV,s. Its not all about getting to Net Zero really. It is all about Tax Cuts for those who might not really need them, and who might even just buy what ever vehicle they want regardless of running costs. Then no matter how many they own, each driver can only drive or ride one at a time. The others are parked.

At least George seems to understand the point I'm getting at...

Might help some who DIY. For Service Campaign '34F7' & the Synthetic changed to Mineral.

Of the 32.2 million cars licensed in Great Britain at the end of 2021, 18.7 million were petrol powered (the same number compared to the previous year), 11.2 million were diesel powered (down 3 per cent compared to the previous year) and 2.3 million alternatively-fuelled (up 43 per cent compared to the previous year). Source: Department for Transport table VEH1103 By the end of June 2023, petrol and diesel cars still dominated British roads. In fact, 59% of cars on the road were petrol and 35% were diesel. In terms of real numbers, there were 19,243,306 petrol cars and 11,498,138 diesel cars registered in the UK in 2023. There are 7% fewer diesel cars on the road now compared to two years ago. How about electric or plug-in hybrid electric cars? In mid 2023 there were 2,718,386 EVs in the UK, a 14X increase since 2014. In June 2023, 8.3% of cars in the UK were fully or partially fueled by electric power. Hybrid electrics are by far the most popular, with 1,468,350 on the road in 2023. https://www.nimblefins.co.uk/cheap-car-insurance/number-cars-great-britain

I don't think you're being funny either. Borderline trolling perhaps but definitely not being funny. You play the same act in my Single Market topic which you alluded to. I don't know if you're trying to play Devil's advocate sometimes which I could understand but if that's the case, you do a bad job of it.

After the recent freeze, heated rear seats and heated washer jets, all original kit, coded etc plus a quick coding job on the Day Light running to include the rear lamps. I had to wait for my slot as well, worth the wait 😁

There's millions of vehicles around the world that are now either full EV or hybrids. Ergo that means millions fewer vehicles burning fossil fuels. It's just counting. It's not rocket science.

Is he the sk retrofits guy on fb?

Hi Elliott Thought I recognised my car 😁 Just wanted to say thanks and to give you a SHOUT OUT on the forum for another great job, delivered as quoted, on time and in budget. I couldn't be more pleased ..................and here you are, a few hours later already helping out the next guy who needs it. Well done and thank you, happy to recommend !👍

Might depend on how much the car has fell as well as dropped (mileage, use) but sorry I've no idea but you would probably get more and better replies if you posted in the Octavia Mk2 forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ HTH. Good luck.

Bought new KW camber plates 19000702 time to replace good old Ground Control camber/castor plates. Thing I don't Like is doing doing sound while turning steering wheel and noise over bumpers from ball bearings. Good thing is wide range of adjustement. I expect German quality and closed seal system-long lasting and due to the fact www.gepfeffert.com installs them on large scale on very expensive cars so they must be quality improvement over my old ones. More pics to come

As above, check for loose heat shields underneath. A knackered rear lower engine mount (commonly called the dogbone mount) also won't help with movement and rattling of the exhaust system - I have a powerflex diesel polybush fitted to mine. DMF failure should be unlikely.

Couldn't resist a gratuitous photo of my not an X-type 😁

Check if a heat shield that should be welded to the exhaust has come loose. Happened on my VRS and made the same rattle as you describe. As far as I recall it was about half way along the exhaust.

OE is £180, The OEM one made by FAG is £40, I think I’ll go for the FAG one at them prices

My new beast. I got I just before Christmas and absolutely loving it so far.

New Superb 2.0 TDI 147kW. Wheels are from.... Passat B6.

My wheel arch providing some shelter to a robin

Gandalf, in roof rack mode, enjoying the afternoon sunshine 😎