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Ah, so no "RECOND" option on your CTEK. Bottom line, as usual "needs must" if you can't get this battery into a useable condition, then you might not have an easy option, running the car for a short period in terms of days, is not going to cause a big issue, but, do prioritise getting this done as it should improve the service life of the new battery.

£54 completely wasted.

I thought it would be useful to create this separate topic and collate information as now Infotainment Software Version 1969 is out in the wild I imagine user interest will increase. All credit to those who posted information in other threads - I hopefully have credited you all where necessary. Feel free to comment on your own experiences and observations. Despite saying I was going to wait for this update to come OTA, based on the principle of “If it ain’t broken….” I bit the bullet and applied the 1969 update manually this morning (I'm a sucker for an update). All went very smoothly and took around 20 minutes. Seems an obvious point but to put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. I followed a previous guide for version 1941 by @TheWanderer which was invaluable. I highly recommend watching the YouTube video in the instructions as you are updating as it is a useful reference of the stages your system is going through. I have copied and pasted his guide below but it’s not my work, full credit to @TheWanderer for this: Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet for example MIB3 UG. Then find the zip file and then right click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to MIB3 UG folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished, format a usb memory stick so it's completely empty, then go to the folder MIB3 UG open it and copy the 2 folders and other file directly onto the memory stick. When it has finished copying the files to the memory stick it should look something like this... THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES THAN THIS. Once your memory stick looks like this, remove it and take it to the car. Insert it into a USB port, press and hold the menu button for about 10 seconds and the update menu will appear. At this point it's vital that you have a full or very well charged car battery or a battery charger attached so that the car doesn't shutdown halfway through the process. Ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. Here's a video that shows you what to do, albeit in German, you'll get the English version! If you watch it carefully you'll get the gist of what to do. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you Once it has been updated, there should be no more random restarts or crashes on the infotainment system, the pop pop issue should be gone too.. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU

I add myself also here ... car is brilliant. Made a round-trip of south east europe of 3200km only two days after getting the car delivered and I actually started learning the ropes as I went 🙂 And fairly economical as well, returned an average of 12/13 km/lt (say, 7 to 8 l/100km), considering not exactly economy run speeds ... There is still loads more to go .. but so far all good. I was shocked and horrified to learn it had its first 'service' done at 30K km ... modern engines oh well. I booked it for a check regardless, while I need to select a 'new' VCDS from Gendan, mine which I got from them 10 years ago became outdated (like most things, alas, I am still struggling without CDs 🤪). Will continue reading and reading ....

That should not be an issue - especially if your replacement is another EFB. Make sure you do get it adapted correctly asap though.

Happy to report that the door sealing worked flawlessly, replaced all the fixings with new ones, going to do the other side while the weather is nice, a bit of preventative maintenance. My daughter sent me an early (2 years in fact) 50th birthday present, it matches her number plate and my sons too… 😍 I would never buy a personal number plate, so it was a nice surprise, I put some LED number plate lights in at the same time. Russell Wilkes: RW05 KES Cleo Wilkes: CW05 KES Lucas Wilkes: LW05 KES

So yeah, managed to fix it. It was the mid exhaust hanger mount. The mount itself was possibly screwed with some tension and everytime the exhaust was moving a bit it was initiating this rattle, constantly, which was driving me nuts. So under the car i go and since it's low you will understand it's a pain. Moved the exhaust vigorously by hand and confirmed that was the issue. So i backed off the 13mm bolt holding the bracket and let it relax then tightened it again and NO MORE RATTLE.

Sold my MK3 a few months back, will most probably be my last Skoda, nothing in the current range makes me think oooh I want of them. Originally had a 2002 MK1 VRS which I had for 12 years. My 2019 MK3.5 I kept for 18 months. On comparing the two variants to me they both have their good and bad points. I kept my MK1 standard for around 3 years, then found this site and the mods started, MK3 was left standard, mods were planned but the itch to get a V8 won so the VRS went and in came Jag XFR. So on to comparing the VRS's. MK3 has the better chassis handles better than MK1, ride quality the same. MK3 definitely has the better seats, much more support and a lot easier to keep clean along with the carpets, who thought white/silver seats and carpet in a family car was a good idea I'll never know. MK1 has the better steering wheel to the touch, MK3 feels to plasticky, design is on a par. Some of the interior plastics on the MK3 seemed a bit more scratchy and hard compared to the MK1. MK3 has the better spec all round. MK3 why are the front window switches hidden behind the door handle?? I opened the rears nearly as much as the fronts. MK1 opening the boot in the rain resulted in water in the boot, nice to see they cured it for the MK3. Both have great boot space. The engines, 2.0TSi and 1.8T 20V, newer engine the better performance wise, both very tunable, and both have decent reliability if properly maintained. Think my biggest gripe with the 2.0 TSi is how many parts under the bonnet are now plastic, and we all know how plastic copes with numerous heat cycles, think I'd of been waiting for something to split once things get hot after a few years of use. MK3 headlamps loads better than the candles on the MK1. Fuel economy on a run was good on both models, I regularly got mid 40's, and insurance was was good compered to some of it's rivals. Both good looking cars, MK1 wins this one for me just looked better compared to lower spec models, where as the MK3 doesn't look different enough to the rest of the range. never bothered with the MK2 or MK2 FL, didn't like the back end and the Dame Edna glasses on the FL. The MK4 leaves me cold, looks like a bad copy BMW 3 series. So which do I think is the better of the two? For me it's the MK1, it's a close call, the MK1 just seems to have a character to it where the the MK3 feels a little to clinical. Both cars based on Golf GTi, the MK1 to me felt on a par to the MK4 GTi, where as the MK3 feels cheaper than GTi's now, VAG management definitely put a gap between Audi, VW, and Skoda, Seat taking up the cheap end. Another to way to look at it also is when you park your car, do you look back at your car and think that's mine, I did with the MK1 all the time, the MK3 not so much. Anyway that's my thoughts and opinion, let the agreements and disagreements start🤣🤣

Thanks all. 👍🏻

The FL vRS will now come with TWO brollies ☂️☂️

Smashing Bluebells at Gunby Hall today..........

Welcome. Maybe a mod can move your post to the Fabia Mk2 section.

Interesting, thank you. I had seen the VW announcements and was thinking that an Octavia PHEV with 60 mile range would be ideal.

I saw an interview (AutoExpress) when they launched the FL version, with someone at Skoda, who said "at the time it was decided not to put the plug-in hybrid in the Octavia" And then a bit later: "Will we revisit that? Yes." But also: "the profit margins on plug-in hybrids are low" So may be some chance of Octavia PHEVs eventually but I'd be surprised if it's before 2025. Which is a shame - put Skoda/ VW's new 100km/62 mile range (WLTP I guess) batteries in an Octavia Estate and I'd be very interested. Also worth noting - Skoda *have* announced there will be new PHEV versions of the Superb and Kodiaq, but PHEV versions aren't in the current brochures for those either.

I have bought a new car so will be advertising the old girl once I have given her a clean up.

My Son had an issue with his Dacia Stepside when the wipers stopped working. You can usually get just the motor but not for Dacia. It had to be the complete wiper assembly costing £400 from a main dealer. I tried everywhere for a lesser fix which I could do myself but the same answer came back from everyone - Main dealer part only. Typical a year later there are now specialists which can supply a replacement motor for £50. As Stonekeeper says all manufacturers have issues. Its a total luck of the draw. I never had half the problems with the 2nd hand cars I used to own. No more new ones for me, they end up costing way too much when you are locked into main dealer warranty.

This is the tyre-pressure sticker on the door-pillar of my 2023-bult Fabia Mk 4 SE L DSG. As will be seen, whatever the wheel-diameter, the recommended pressure for the front and rear tyres is 2.5bar (36psi) when the car has 3 occupants and some luggage or - when the car has 5 occupants and a lot of luggage - 2.7bar (39psi) for the front tyres and 3.4bar (49psi) for the rear tyres. The Skoda website indicates that - for current Fabia Mk 4 cars - the 'basic' SE Comfort model has, as standard, 15"-diameter Rotare silver alloy wheels with 185/65 R15 88H tyres that can be made either by Goodyear or Continental. The 88H Load Index/Speed Rating indicates a maximum individual tyre-loading of 560kg and a maximum speed of 130mph. This Michelin webpage may be useful. https://www.michelin.co.uk/auto/advice/tyre-basics/tyre-load-rating-speed-rating Reducing the pressure from 36psi to 32psi (2.2bar) should result in a mildly softer ride, but - unless using the recommended 2.5bar/36psi produces an uncomfortably harsh ride quality - there's no compelling reason to do this and it should be anticipated that fuel-economy will suffer (slightly).

Try this:- ''Good afternoon, a family member has a 2009 Skoda Fabia Greenline, the rear parking sensors stopped working, the beep is ok! I was looking for the Sensor Module next to the driver's seat belt, there is only the Beep Sound from the sensors, but after assembling the plastics next to the belt the Airbag light is always on, I would like your help with these two problems Thanks''

In Greece we have "invented" a term, is ''pre-internet'' or ''pre-forum" period which means before we login in forum and exchange posts (and learning from others). Many years ago i had installed a an extra hood insulations, those years there was a misconception that this extra layer will reduce the sound of the engine, protect the metal sheet from the engine bay temperature etc. So i installed by myself a layer although i haven't see in internet something, the only information was from magazines and ''from mouth to mouth", looked like this: https://www.speednik.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/1/files/2020/11/protect-your-cars-paint-with-deis-under-hood-insulation-kit-2020-11-16_05-39-37_978574-1440x960.jpg Few months ago i decide that i don't want it any more, i let the car in a mechanic to remove it plus to do some other things, after a day i start hearing a metallic noise from the front of the car, a ''tzzzz" sound which was louder in idle. This made me extremely nervous and when i found time i start searching the reason, first i search by fingers but i couldn't reach something so i use a magnet attached in the end of a wire and started ''fishing" among all the gaps of the hood. First a bolt dropped, for instance i thought that was the only one but as suspicious persons continue searching and then i manage to extract these two: When the mechanic removed the extra layer didn't pay attention to those 2 sneaky runaways which manage to "snuggle" in the bottom of the hood (example) causing that rattle noise. Now things went back to normal, the hood is lighter and the temperature from engine bay escapes easier.

They are on all the time on the 4 corners it seems. Not the 2 extra side ones. Unless I press the button to turn them actually on. Then I got the full 6

ODIS has (generally) restricted access to dealers only, so unlikely to be available to download. I also suspect that the consequences for any employee & franchise permitting a download to be downloaded & distributed in the public domain could/would be quite dire for both. Bite the proverbial bullet and get it done officially and then you have comeback on the dealer if it doesn't work and causes major problems.

Did you swap your cable as per your other post? If so then try 31347.

Also standard 4M rear springs are very prone to subtlety snapping at the bottom and clanking their coil together.

Awesome project, I seriously considered converting my 1U VRS to AWD but the chassis work involved put me off. It really needs it though as a stage 2 APR remap alone has it scrabbling for grip. The PQ34 4Motion rear end is prone to damper knocking and we have had great results across all PQ34 cars using the KONI Active. My car has them all round with Eibach springs.

You could speak to Bowders who has/sells remapped ECU's. They come demobilised too.

The only time I would consider an engine oil flush might be necessary would be if service intervals had been severely neglected - or the oil had become contaminated in some way - and would use normal lubricating oil for the purpose.

AGM life and performance is superior to EFB, but will cost more. You will definitely need to get adaptation done if changing battery type to AGM - even if the replacement battery is exactly the same as original, you should still get the adaptation done, as it is probable that the smart alternator control unit settings will have altered to cope with any battery errors detected. Not all battery suppliers have the equipment (or are even aware of the need) to do the adaptation - ensure that you ask - walk away if they say it's not necessary.

Dunno, but some of these sensors are active/polarised, I seem to remember. Experiment if you're keen.

So I got a Yuasa 3000 which is 71ah 680A EN 3 years warranty from GFS Parts in East Grinstead £87.00 (10%off) this was the nearest battery I could get yesterday that matched the spec of the battery I have which is a Varta 70ah 680A EN.

No you have it wrong, Aviva are Halfords insurer and they paid the owner what they valued the car at. He needs to have a frank discussion with them and give them proof that the car was or is worth more than that, I had to do when my car was written off for me as the insurers failed to take into account the significance of the L&K model and just valued mine as a normal Superb. The other problem is that the other cars that the Alfa hit, their insurers filed a claim against the Alfa owners insurance as the only info that they had it seems was the Alfa registration number? Running that through the insurance database would reveal who the car was insured with and hence the claims were made against his insurer rather than Aviva. Once a claim has been filed, regardless of if it was paid out, it seems that it remains on your record for 5 years and will affect your premiums until that 5 years is up. I have the same issue with damage being done to my old car by a car wash machine going rogue. The owners of the machine paid up, but as my insurance were informed of a possible claim being made against them, entered it onto the database and now my insurance is costing me more even it was recorded as no actual claim being made. It seems that insurance is legal robbery after all and I did start a thread about on here a while ago.

Halfords battery, 4 year warranty, can't argue with that and "if" they do fail which is very rare, they swap them no questions asked. Halfords also supply Yuasa, those have a 5 year warranty.

I think there is some confusion going on here with the OP title and the story. Aviva, Halford's insurer paid The claim. it says so in the story. The owner of the car should have submitted a bill to Halfords for his Car hire etc for them to pass on to their insurance Company Aviva. He is a third party in that claim. The puncture cost is because he didn't add tyre cover to his car rental, which he could have done and it would have saved the bill and the extra cost for the cover would be in his invoice as a third party claim on Halford's Aviva policy. After that somehow the Claim must have been recorded on the insurance Database against the vehicles History as a claim by the insured. It will all have probably been resolved by now as it says at the end of the story. But saying all was well in the end doesn't sell copy as they say.

Link to new brochure 10th April 2024 https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/5782ef00-768c-43df-8faf-51cba9730287

The main download a brochure page doesn't have it under list of vehicles (clearly an error by team that looks after website) but it obscurely linked within the Kodiaq 2 further information.

I brought it years ago, back in 2007 I think. The older HEX-USB+CAN one, but it still does me fine. I can't remember now who I brought it from now, but it has served me well over many years. Was a few hundred pounds IIRC.

It is time for some standards on these things. It will take a long time before the public learn such things, they have decades of going to a forecourt and sticking a nozzle in the filler neck, no need to think.

Yes maybe, you would of felt the pedal drop a lot otherwise, especially with the engine running. I'm thinking any fluid trapped by closed valves must of remained in the unit, again trapped inside due to the closed valves. So if then all the open ports would of drip refilled on replacement, coupled with the open pathways then normal bleed, then maybe. It is quite a normal procedure to have to scan tool ABS Bleed on ABS Block replacement, but that would be with new/remanufactured and crucially fluid empty ABS Units. Anyway something you can keep in mind if you ever get a garage to brake bleed, instruct them to scan tool ABS Bleed too as that is not done by default and as @Paws4Thot said confirm they understand what your asking and why, as by experience I have had many blank faces too. In an older message you mentioned about coding values. Now your original unit is back you can get an OBD scan done and save your module coding values.

I took this recently one evening. 10x zoom on my Samsung phone and then a further digital zoom (totalling around 20x zoom I would estimate), so that's the excuses out of the way. Impressive catch though (the bird, not the photo)

Mine have now arrived. Will be up for sale once install is complete.

I've been doing important stuff this afternoon Challenge no.1 - get a hoverfly and tortoise in the same photo: Task completed ✅ Gaz

They received training from whoever on behalf of their Employers. Which tells a tale about them. Dealerships downloading info on the radio as far as station listened to was a step to far of information gathering. Also Scotland biggest motor putting through finance checks or applications when the customer did not want finance came back to bight them in their butt. Then there less than secure IT.

878 owned in the family since new and still going strong in Rye, East Sussex.

#904 is now owned by myself since March 2023. Angus McMillan, Stirling, Scotland

793 here in Wexford Ireland. The car has been in Ireland since 2015 and has had 3 owners here. - Alex G.

026 Is mine 🤜🏼🤛🏼 Owned it since march 2023

Got number 032 bought in september 23 from a garage in penrith now in scotland 3rd owner

#542 since 2019. Currently on 81k

Owner of number 003. I have been since 2014. Cheers 👌

It's interesting to see that owners of standard cars tend to keep them much longer than owners of modified ones. I think that applies to all makes and models. I know someone that purchased a Mk2 VW Golf GTi new in August 1991 and still has it today. It was their only car all that time. Perhaps owners of modified ones are never satisfied with the car once modified, perhaps the mods didn't fulfil the expectation, or created other, unexpected, traits. Everything is a trade off. Certainly, once cars are regarded as classics, typically, the closer to standard the more desirable.

The Haldex was frustrating as had it serviced by an independent in the summer(he said that it didn't look like the gunk had ever been cleaned out even though it had oil changes, seems to get overlooked a fair bit) wish I replaced the pump then. I hope I don't have a water pump failure so will preempt it and get it changed I think. Yours looks great! I get that the impatience, I keep putting it off due to time but have a huge pile of parts in the living room so have to get it sorted now besides it feels very squishy now so I expect the current shocks are done or not in great shape. I've probably gone over the top replacing pretty much all parts associated. My brakes feel a touch weird since changing discs, pads, fluid, hoses. Getting them relooked at, suspect it may be the pads or discs.