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They put in fresh G13 coolant. In two years time, during the service, I'll ask them to put the G12evo in.

Had the Water pump on Gandalf replaced today, along with a new revision non-silikant coolant tank. Right on queue (almost done 90k kms) Gandalf started losing coolant very slowly over the last few months. I would have to top it up with distilled water to the Max line, and over a period of 4 wks or so, it would drop halfway between Min and Max. All fixed now. Parts used:- P673 - Hepu Thermostat and Water Pump Assembly - MQB 1.8/2.0 TSI (06L121111H) 06L121131 - Union for Water - VAG MQB 1.8/2.0 TSI 5Q0121407M - Coolant Reservoir - VAG MQB

Thanks Polaris and AGFalco for pointing out the problem and solution. You've probably saved a few Fabia owners a bit of dosh!

Chiffchaff in the garden

Stone chips: --> delayed because of brake pads replacement, which took longer than expected... Right chrome trim on rear bumper diffusor: Back in place, quite satisfied with new varnishing result. Rear brake pad replacement: Done! Not that complicated, thanks to @ApertureS explanations to apply correct operating process with VCDS. 🙏 What was not expected was the black screen on my laptop just before applying VCDS procedure 😰. Fortunately, it was just before I started applying the procedure. I almost had cold sweat. Additionally, I did not pay enough attention, but I left ignition on (engine off of course), with driver's door open, DRL on, and radio on... And as a logical consequence, I've got following error messages, few minutes before I finished: ⚠️Warning, Low battery voltage! ⚠️ More annoying, I've also got a 2nd warning message: "Emergency call not available: workshop service required". I hope it's only due to the battery low voltage. I'll have a test drive tomorrow for the brake pads and see if battery charging will erase this error message. 🤞

Yes here too

Lovely at Carburton this evening........

Done yesterday: - Renewed piano black door trims with polish. They were so dull, they’re now shiny again. 😃 - Treated some stone chips on the bonnet and roof with touch-up pen. Quite satisfied with the result. - Varnished the right chrome trim of my sportline diffusor (had hit a stone in reverse gear to avoid being hit by a jerk driver). Fortunately, the chrome (plastic actually) was not scratched, only the varnished peeled off. Still to be clipsed back onto the car. It dried overnight after 3 layers. - Fixed a problem on my rear dashcam, which was disconnected from the video cable. - Made a housing for the rear dashcam to make it look a bit more ‘OEM’. Just need to glue it with double sides scotch tape, which I don’t currently have. Will be done at the end of the week. Things to do this afternoon: - Finish the stone chips treatment with varnish coating - Put back the right chrome trim on rear bumper diffusor - Replace rear brake pads.

acknowledged that the OPs is a 2.0TDi but I fairly recently bought a 1.4TSi Superb3 with 126k on the clock and no cambelt done. As confirmed by Skoda the interval on that is 15 years/180k miles which given I only do between 5-10k per year means I will most likely have sold it before the next change due. Would I change it before selling ? All depends. If I did then the asking price would probably go up. Would it really affect the asking price if not done or would it simply make it more sellable ?

Just to be helpful, because it fooled me. My exhaust pipe started making the "I need a new exhaust!" noise. I could smell fumes and knew it was somewhere near the middle. So went to my local garage who put it on the ramp and pointed out a rusted clamp where the front and back pipes join. Fifteen quid later, replaced and gixed. Apparently they see this all the time on Fabias, along with equivalent Seats and Audi.

Well, the dog will only do it the once.

The interesting part about all this is I was told, by SUK, in June 2020 that warranty decisions are the responsibility of the dealer, which I take to mean dealer warranty decisions are audited after the event by the warranty team at MK and if they deem it was fair, they’ll pay the dealer for the parts and labour. We had a similar situation in car rental, whereby we had dealer warranty status and could therefore authorise warranty decisions and then claims from the manufacturer. I can only think this is why there is a reluctance to authorise claims were they think there is the slightest possibility of it being rejected.

Update: Finally, after 5 - 6 days of trying every which way they can to charge the battery (Skoda Assist deemed it faulty 10 days ago), the dealer has capitulated and fitted a replacement. The dealer claims all the procrastinating and delay was down to official Skoda 'procedure' and refuses to accept any criticism on their part, claiming 'hands are tied'......... I got the impression throughout the last week that either my dealer was being a cheapskate or Skoda really do rule with a rod of iron and impress upon dealers to do all they can to avoid spending monies on warranty claims? Either way, 10 days without the motor for something as easily fixed as a new battery I don't feel is acceptable. I think it boils down to keeping fingers crossed that a new Skoda* is a good one and any sort of warranty interaction with the dealer is avoided. VW are as bad, 3 years ago my Golf suffered the all too often seen rotting front wings - my claim was refused because, apparently, any part of the bodywork that can be removed wasn't covered - the 12 year warranty only applies to the body shell......??? *We've got a Karoq on order with same dealer, allegedly being built this week, I hope I don't need the service department anytime soon. 🤞

It was the anti theft part- the bit that locks it up if it's tampered with.

You are aware that the passengers are breaking UK seatbelt law if they're not wearing their belts? I'm not sure you can do what you want, but suggest pointing out that they're responsible for their own fines.

Ok I see well I'm no auto electrician so I can't help you with the problem, there are a lot of very knowledgeable people on here that may be able to help. Sorry.

They never engineered the engine management for driving pleasure or behavior. Just for the WLTP regime and WLTP. Battery getting some charge slowing down and you have 0w 20 FS oil if you use what they used and recommended. It could be worse. You could be in a mild hybrid, PHEV or a BEV.

Yes, thanks @TheUltraRunner. That one makes more sense and the cost is coherent, definitely I am putting it in the to do list. Approaching the 4 years check, so I am going to put priority on spark plugs and DSG oil change.

Wishing you well with your new purchase. We moved to a Karoq Sportline a year ago, having given up a fabulous Freelander thanks to Khan and his wonderful ULEZ expansion which would have caught us being SE London / Kent border

I had the problem with a car seat for my little girl and the cup holders that pull out were too big. I used thermo plastic to make a sleeve . You melt it by heating it up in hot water then mould your shape and when it cools it goes hard. If you want to change the shape you can reuse it by putting it on hot water again. It worked great. I use it for lots of other stuff. If you look around you can buy it on various colours.

Many thanks Luckypants. I'm very grateful.

Do you have a picture of where this was hapenning?

Had the Water pump on Gandalf replaced today, along with a new revision non-silikant coolant tank. Parts used:- P673 - Hepu Thermostat and Water Pump Assembly - MQB 1.8/2.0 TSI (06L121111H) 06L121131 - Union for Water - VAG MQB 1.8/2.0 TSI 5Q0121407M - Coolant Reservoir - VAG MQB

@aaaaplay Who were these people and what position do they hold in the VW Group or what qualifications have they as far as the manufacturing of the components? Do you have in writing from them that it 'was a bad batch'? Great if you have. Just get Skoda / VW to accept that it was, or take an action against them if there is proof they were building the cars and using parts which were manufactured not as they had specified. Sometimes just being a PITA is enough to get parts replaced Free Gratis. With the Zinc Inclusion manufacturing issues they must have been able to trace to which shifts and employees were working when the vehicles with the issue were manufactured. Not that they were prepared to accept they built lemons that they should have bought back if an owner then was landed with one.

Any 12V systems, like the radio, run off the 12V battery not the HV traction battery.

Have the garage done a load test on the battery? - eliminate the simple before searching for the complex (and expensive).

A Dog should not be loose in a Car

Yeah I know. Would wish that they would make a stand alone module for only SS. And a bit cheaper.

I think we'll have to agree to disagree here. I didn't suggest for one minute that the owner was trying to hide anything. Suggest you read my comment again carefully.. What If the car was priced accordingly? Granted, that could well be the case, but if it is, please point me to where the OP says this? lets put it this way. If you're happy buying a car which looked like it 'might' 'possibly' need a considerable spend on it at some point soon without a price adjustment, then fine, good for you. What works for you doesn't necessarily work for me. We're all different, so each to their own.

Even better! Cheers fella

The design isn't modified, rather made without fault. The part number has remained unchanged/has had no revisions. We have consumer protections but no 'Lemon Law' per se. Those protections often have exceptions when it comes to cars as well. The protections are nothing like what the US has. Most of protections are based around goods being fit for purpose, what a reasonable life expectancy would be, and minor vs major faults. In this instance it would be a minor fault - so it would be unreasonable to expect Skoda to take the vehicle back. But it is reasonable to expect them to fix the fault.

My ideas are as follows, in order of what I think is the best solution for your problem. 1) Take it to a garage, describe the fault and ask them to fix it if economically viable. Otherwise..... 2) Find out how the recirculating air lever works in the Citigo, determine what fault would cause the lever to jam in the way it has, and then fix the problem yourself, with the assistance of Briskoda members who may help by explaining how to solve specific issues like taking out the radio, etc. Otherwise.... 3) Simply drive with the windows open a crack and the heater turned up a bit. And finally... 4) Hope that it's just some silly feature you didn't know about and the solution is simple, easy and free, and all you have to do is ask the right person to explain it to you. <--- I suspect you are here. It's always a good point to start at, as sometimes it is just a silly feature you didn't know about.

TBH even if someone has replied using a quote unless they have specifically @ me then I work on the presumption that any question is "open to the audience" But maybe that's just an @ me thing ;o)

215/40R17 is an expensive and hard riding tyre size. 15" wheels such as the standard 185/60R15 fitted to 6Jx15 ET38 rims would make a lot more sense. 15" tyre sizes in general are much cheaper than 17"...often less than half the price. Here is just one example, and I've listed 5.5Jx15 ET40 rims from the Fabia MK4 rather than the standard Fabia MK3/Rapid 6Jx15 ET38 because the slightly narrower 5.5J rims not only helps to improve the ride even more compared to the wider 6J rims but the tyres' sidewalls will bulge out slightly more resulting in even better protection from kerbing damage. Uniroyal RainExpert 5 185/60R15 84H (Euro label C A 70dB) (£58.60 each) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Uniroyal/RainExpert-5/185-60-R15-84H-EVc/D-124245 Alcar 4055 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 steel rim (from Fabia MK4) (£50.80 each) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1360399348768339044&rimCode=ALCAR4055 Wheel trims for 5.5Jx15 ET40 steel rims (from Fabia MK4) 6VA071455 (1259CZK is about £42.48 for a set of four) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-poklic-calisto-15/p/6VA071455 So based on these prices, the total for a set of four new tyres and rims including wheel trims would be £480.08. You would then have your old wheels to resell and recoup some of the cost. The UK price for the wheel trims might be a little more than the Czech price when ordered through a UK VAG parts department. Although you can get 17" tyres that might be a small improvement over your current 17" tyres, these 15" tyres will put the car's ride in a completely different league. For completeness, I've also provided links to the standard 6Jx15 ET38 rims below. Alcar 7760 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 steel rim (from Fabia MK3, Rapid) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=799637973241959524&rimCode=ALCAR7760 Wheel trims for 6Jx15 ET38 steel rims (from Fabia MK3, Rapid) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/poklice-na-kola/c/fullWheelCovers?q=%3AscoreDesc%3ArimDiameter%3A15%3AcarType%3ARapid%2B%282012-2020%29&text=# 195/60R15 would provide even more protection from kerbing damage compared to the standard 185/60R15, and provide a wider looking tyre and slightly better ride comfort compared to the standard 185/60R15 tyre size...although even the standard 185/60R15 is in a different league compared to the really quite awful hard riding 215/40R17. Uniroyal RainExpert 5 195/60R15 88H (Euro label C A 71dB) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Uniroyal/RainExpert-5/195-60-R15-88H-EVc/D-124243

I'm happy with the general volume level in the Superb. Could summarize, maybe.....bear in mind that nowadays, I do 400km at a time, 1 way, to the office. Same day return, mostly empty roads. Minimal town work, mostly 80/100/120km/h limits, 80/100 in winter. Summer tyres are Bridgestone Turanza 005s, Winter Hakkapellitta 8s. Both in 215/55R17. Car spec includes heated seats and wheel, Bi-Xenon, Amundsen, Webasto. I've done a tick over 73500kms in 2.5 years. Average according to Spritmonitor is around 6l/100. Average speeds tend to be high with summer limits, like 100km/h high. Plus: - like the ride. Very comfy. But this car also has the rough road pack (+15mm) - noise-wise, pleasantly quiet, even with winter spikes - manual change not too shabby - winter tyres still have 6mm left; summers still have >5mm left. Both sets were new at the time of buying. - it powerslides beautifully in ESC Sport mode without allowing rotations... but you can still eat snow - the range is lovely, with 1200km no issue and 800 in a day absolutely standard with a 1/3 tank left. Dislikes: - used the heated screen so little it's weird. Webasto very effective, so that got used instead. - bit floaty over the bumpy stuff, would have fixed that with B6s all round - sound system is pants, but I fixed that --> DSP + Amps + Sub. Took some boot space, excellent sound as a result. - Bi-Xenon underwhelming, I fixed that too --> Lazer 18 Elite will also be added to the Kodiaq - Range on the Webasto remote was small. Can't stand on the runway at my local airport and turn the Webasto on reliably.But this is a standard feature of these remotes, so... What broke / was replaced? 1 wheel bearing. 1 lower control arm ball joint 1 set of front disks + pads oil, 3 times Haldex oil, once Adblue system bits, once Battery, once Kessy start button, once Overall: solid 8/10. Can't argue with the tyre wear; it's done a very good job of keeping costs down and eating the miles. Haldex is very nice now the fluid is changed - previously you could tell when power was going to the back, now it's just sliiiiiiide and no apparent movement of power.

I believe the air con goes into recirculate mode when reverse is selected to avoid exhaust fumes being drawn into cabin. Does selecting recirculating mode produce same noise, if so could just be sticking air distribution flap.

Nope sorry it comes blank and will need programming with Odis sorry.

Not right now. But in the many threads there is plenty advice on how to deal with the seals, unblock the drain holes.

So yeah, managed to fix it. It was the mid exhaust hanger mount. The mount itself was possibly screwed with some tension and everytime the exhaust was moving a bit it was initiating this rattle, constantly, which was driving me nuts. So under the car i go and since it's low you will understand it's a pain. Moved the exhaust vigorously by hand and confirmed that was the issue. So i backed off the 13mm bolt holding the bracket and let it relax then tightened it again and NO MORE RATTLE.

Ohh thats interesting. I have just used the standard Nextbase wiring kit. Might have to look into that later. Thanks.

Just spraying stuff in slots or whatever will be a very bad idea... You'll need to find out what the problem is first, to work out a solution, and removing the radio is, I think, the fits step. There will probably be a bowden cable that links the lever to the flap.....

For those NOT native to the UK I would appreciate that once you have downloaded it, you make it available on your own forums in your own country as serving the whole of Europe’s needs is taking too much time. Thanks for understanding

See also: https://www.carmagazine.co.uk/car-news/first-official-pictures/skoda/kodiaq/

Hello! Apologies for noob questions, I have tried to search for the answers. I picked up my 21 plate Superb IV yesterday. I actually got it to charge overnight on a low tariff rate using the charge schedule in the car. I am using a Masterplug 13A charger. I'll use a Tapo P110 smart plug soon so I can remotely see if the car is charging..... just for interest. My question relates to thr Departure time. I assume this function allows heating/cooling before departure for a predetermined period. Can this be set up in the car or does this require the MySkoda app? The Care Connect - Remote Access has expired and so I would need to fork out £36 for one year's subscription. I'm very chuffed to have got the car to charge but setting the departure time temperature conditioning would be great. Is the Remote Access really worrh it? Thanks in advance for your help!

@Bernardor This is the main page for Favorit https://en.skoda-club.net/manuals.php?ddlb_category=11&ddlb_model=8 except English some are in Czech but some in German.

You can set heating/cooling departure time in the car. Go to e-manager. Click settings cog. Set the temperature you want by clicking on air conditioning. Go back one screen, touch a plan on the left. Now you set the time you want it be ready, and you will also see an option for air conditioning as well as charging and another to tell it when your off peak tariff is. So just click on air conditioning there if you want it pre warmed or cooled at your departure time, as well as being charged to whatever percentage charge you have chosen. Hope that makes sense!

There's very likely to be a part number on that connector. If you put that number into ebay search box, with a little bit of luck you'll get hits that include such a connector with short wire tails hanging out of it. Then you can join to existing wires well away from connector plastic.

@ApertureS - as much as u r being helpful and taking the time n effort to tell this person wat needs to b done - they're simply not listening!!! Breathe in.... Breathe out....

I think I found one of the issues, I had minimum charge set to 50% which may be why it was always trying to charge immediately.

I continue with my search for shock absorbers, in the beginning the idea was the Koni Special Active or Bilstein B12, but I already used the Bilsteins in a Ford Focus and after 3 years they became hard and uncomfortable. I do not know if the Koni will be too hard to travel as a family. Now a friend has ridden Sachs twin tube and says the car is firmer and drives better than the garbage ZF shock absorbers. Will they be like the Bilstein B4? In any case, to make matters worse I carry the PPD suspension or for roads in poor condition and I don't know what springs other than the Eibach Pro kit to put to lower the car a bit, since the normal or sportline in Skoda are worth more than 500 euros , just the springs. Thanks in advance.