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Not a bad end to the day..........

Chiffchaff in the garden

Quite right, garage BS101 and not even a good attempt, worthy of 1 out of 10 at most. I do like the idea of the rear wheels having consciousness and making the decision though 😁

Bear in mind also that, as far as I am aware, the haldex system doesn't flag any dash errors, so the first thing you know about it not working as, as you've found, when it doesn't work. This is a really useful site generally and this page especially in terms of fault finding: VW Audi Generation 5 Haldex Fault Finding Repair Guide – Haldex Parts and ECU Repairs by Auto Fault Finder Ltd (haldexrepairs.co.uk)

@dominodolmio Welcome. When in the dealership ask the wise guy / gal how you would actually switch of the ESP on your car without plugging it in? They might be in for a bit of expense to actually get this working. Not just an oil change and filter clean out and pump clean up. Maybe a pump, maybe a control panel, maybe anything. Has the car got a service history, Haldex services every 30,000miles / 3 years or sooner. When was the last service?

Yep - that's not working! The older systems did require a small amount of wheelspin before the rears would kick in but the newer ones are pre-engaged a small %age and predictive so shoudl be kicking in fine. The first thing to check would be the haldex pump / filter / oil etc.

Possibly, what model / engine, transmission. What exact mileage? When was the previous service before this oil change service and what was it. Is the car on fixed interval or variable servicing?

Bite that bullet.

True, the most annoying part is when you slow down before red light your speed is 5kph then light changes to green and engine shuts down... Or when you maneuver on a parking lot reverse>1st>reverse etc. and it can shut down too

Just there in my files. Because it is like everyday the same old same old. If someone else bothers to post / link them for the people asking the same questions that seem to suit the same answers i need not bother. 'If only they bothered'.

do you have these things armed and ready to go? Always seem to be very quick to post them 🤔

Easy. @gm73 Are you checking the oil at the normal operating temperature or were they. A professional driver v a technician / fitter ? Cold it might be at the top of the cross hatch. Parked on the flat at the normal operating temperature and checked after a few minutes it might look as low on the cross hatch. So where is it when checked correctly? & where is it dipped cold and no engine started? Many have issues with 1.5 TSI ACT,s and oil level. Maybe because right from an oil change they are low and not checked correctly.

I'd bite two bullets. 1) New battery 2) C-tek trickle charger to refresh every 3 or 4 months. My old Subaru is still on the same battery after 11 years as a result and it's not used much.

@marcusg What engine has the car, what gearbox, what miles has it done, what servicing history is there? You need to know what a MAJOR SERVICE means. It was not and still is not much. 2020 the Term changed to Oil & Inspection Services & Extended Scope. Old chart. Stuff done by Miles, if due. Not always even checked.

^^^ Or just fasten the seat belt, or use it to secure the bag so the stuff does not come forward and kill you, like a passenger could in an accident, or garrotte you, Obvious a Taxi driver without a Seat belt on will never be strangled by rear seat passengers. (Strangest rules /law in the UK where even without passengers they do not need seat belts on.) I was delivering books to Housebound people with a driver when the compulsory seatbelt law came in. We were exempt and had a letter when stopping on the same street, short trips. One day we were in the shop buying lunch, got in the van and started moving a few yards to the next drop. This copper comes running up making signals to the driver to stop. He asks why we had no seat belts on and the driver said we did not need to as we had a letter with exemption. Copper says, that will not stop you going through the windscreen. Not a happy police Inspector. 3 weeks later we are back delivering and the van driver stops and gets out and i see the Police man driving off & he stops and the driver shouted at him. That uniform will not stop you going through a windscreen. We were in a bit of trouble when back at work over that one.

For anyone interested, as I suspected it was pretty straight forward once I received the cables. As for sound quality on standard speakers with added Kenwood KSC-SW11 Subwoofer (can be seen under the seat) I can see the improvement in general quality and clearance, bass has more punch and rock/metal sounds more clear & alive than before, Sepultura Roots Bloody Roots doesn't sound like one ugly sound anymore and you can actually recognize different instruments which was my goal and that particular track proved me this Pioneer actually made a difference. Of course its not as good as replacing standard speakers (my next step) but, its good improvement for the price and very little time and effort needed (50min total).

Nicely put Rooted. A few points to add to your comments… I usually keep my cars for 5 years as they have hand controls fitted, which are expensive. Motability will not allow them to be transferred to a new vehicle, even of the same model. Everyone is entitled to drive the car they choose. Just because you have disability why should it be any different? Yes, the advance payment can be expensive, but if I NEED a bigger “ luxury” car, then I am prepared to cough up. If I choose extras to make my life easier the I have to pay for them as well. Heated screen as I can’t reach far enough to scrape it. Adaptive cruise control too. If you’ve ever tried to drive long distances using hand controls then you’ll understand.

I don't use recirculation on the AC system unless I am avoiding smoke or vehicle fumes. In very hot weather, I leave the AC to draw in fresh air, but I also open the rear windows of my car when I set off to help increase airflow through the car and release some of the hot air that was trapped in my car when it was parked. I close the windows after a short while when the temperature inside starts to fall.

I'm surprised the Taycan hasn't burst into flames according to the stuff people say on the internet 🤪

Disabled people are ordinary people as well and tax payers, just like business drivers with the help they get with BIK, and businesses with VAT back on public charging costs. It can cost a lot in Advance Payment to get cheap cars that might lose lots of money. They offer Dacia but really do not want anyone leasing them. They even encourage top spec often as the Manufacturer might want them shifted and Motability would rather have them for sale in 3 or 5 years. It can be a family car as well as the transport for the disabled person and there were exclusion to the £26,000 limit. So that £26,000 limit applied a few years back never lasted even a year as far as i remember. Many need expensive conversions and to keep the car 5 years. Motability is a charity but the organisation running the vehicle purchase and sales have lots of high paid executives and the 5 big banks holding the billions of funds. They buy and sell the cars and are the biggest individual buyer of cars in the UK and as such have an idea about residuals when the cars go to BCA to be sold. There are lots of Used Vehicles back into the dealerships used at 3 years. FMDSH, 1 registered keeper. Never raced or rallied. Well not officially. Motability get special purchase prices, and do not pay the registration fee. (Adaptions free of VAT.) The UK Manufacturers will very much use Motability to help them with First Registrations of the percentage of Zero Emission cars they are required to have each year from now on.

Regardless whether it's a taxi adult passengers are still required by law to wear a seat belt.

Yes here too

The infamous health check. I'd just say no thanks, take it home & check it yourself, tyre included.

Just use Google Maps/Waze. Makes life so much easier?

Fundamentally you are being attempting to be fleeced by the dealer. The above is a lot of noise worrying you. When the oil is hot it expands slightly, so if it is at the full mark when cold it is ok. Engines are not that sensitive to oil levels.

1. Yes 2. Yes but we don't see them too often. On 2. If you are going to do the upgrade then best to locate a copy of your original files so you can revert back. But you will probably be OK.

Did you sell your old HEX-CAN ? I'm in the same boat now, I looked at the price of the new ones and noticed there was a trade in value. A €100 towards a new one as a trade in. The supplier actually said I'd be better off selling it online! I jist sold old HEX-CAN Unlimited VIN cable for nearly €400! That makes it a cheap and easily justified purchase of the HEX-V2!

75% full would not even show on the dipstick, dealer BS101 once again, press Shift and : together for the scam invoice line that brings in £15.99 at 100% gross profit.

I think people talking about dropping the headlining and removing sill covers are talking rubbish - the cables are generally that thin that those items don' need to be removed and they can usually simply be tucked under them neatly without interfering with anything else. I've just done added a rear light under the roller blind for the boot in our Kodiaq and had no issues feeding the wires through and under various trim to get to where I needed to be. Granted that's not to the front of the car but I've done that before to and from various points including the dashboard / centre console to the boot area on other vehicles and not had an issue.

Might be a simple as you've muted them accidentally? Changing the volume using the control on the steering wheel only works when it is actually talking. Or on the nav screen there is a volume change slider if you tap one of the icons bottom right. Probably not, but quick to check at least

Manual vs automatic makes a ton of difference. With manual you have a lot more control over this function since the engine shuts down only when you have your gearbox in N and clutch is released. With auto, engine shuts down every time the car stops moving. Sometimes even a little bit before the car totally stops.

@ReSeTe the language of this Forum is English, please always post in English.

Well if you're already armed with that info, good luck with the claim.

I can't give out specifics that would identify them - at their request. They're both working high up in dealers in Australia. I was told Skoda Australia were aware of this issue and replacements have been carried out previously. The same supplier messed up a batch of 2021 Karoq Sportline sill plates (similar design) which had been replaced under warranty.

The starter relay, apparently located under the dashboard, has been known to cause problems as far as I know. I had a very similar problem a few months back and it turned out to be a broken wire in a look down in front of the starter motor. I posted a thread about it here....

The Advance Payment currently with a Kodiaq from Motability is not that good. Skoda an others want people leasing BEV,s and Motability buying and first registering those. If they have run out models to clear they might be 'Much Cheapness' while stock lasts.

The clock spring is a fairly old thing in the cars, the horn and steering wheel airbag was mostly done with these before the smart features. I'd say not turning the wheel lock to lock is a good way to prolong their life as this puts less stress on the wire. There is some slack built into them, around an extra half turn worth of wires, but not turning the wheel until it locks definitely helps.

As said above… Ouch! I guess I am lucky in a way, as it would be on Motability so it’s only the up front cost that might tip the balance. However, I have specific needs regarding mobility equipment etc. I will have to have a test drive and see if it all fits first, but having had Skodas for the last 18 yrs without any mechanical issues, I am reluctant to change brand.

You could speak to Bowders who has/sells remapped ECU's. They come demobilised too.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/16S2ntsqY8tKp9u9zLxEGX4oaTf7Wp_pS/view?usp=drivesdk for those not based in the uk, it would be kind if you could share and publicise on your local Sķoda forums. The more people that get 1941 and 1969 the better cos Sķoda dealers on the whole don’t understand (or seem to care about) the problems we’ve all had living with their faulty cars. Once on 1941 and having had the SOS module replaced they are great cars, I’d go so far as to say it’s the most comfortable and satisfying car I’ve ever driven Happy updating 😃

No you have it wrong, Aviva are Halfords insurer and they paid the owner what they valued the car at. He needs to have a frank discussion with them and give them proof that the car was or is worth more than that, I had to do when my car was written off for me as the insurers failed to take into account the significance of the L&K model and just valued mine as a normal Superb. The other problem is that the other cars that the Alfa hit, their insurers filed a claim against the Alfa owners insurance as the only info that they had it seems was the Alfa registration number? Running that through the insurance database would reveal who the car was insured with and hence the claims were made against his insurer rather than Aviva. Once a claim has been filed, regardless of if it was paid out, it seems that it remains on your record for 5 years and will affect your premiums until that 5 years is up. I have the same issue with damage being done to my old car by a car wash machine going rogue. The owners of the machine paid up, but as my insurance were informed of a possible claim being made against them, entered it onto the database and now my insurance is costing me more even it was recorded as no actual claim being made. It seems that insurance is legal robbery after all and I did start a thread about on here a while ago.

I'd expect that any business performing this type of work would be legally compelled to have public liability insurance to cover customers property in their care.

Guess they should be really/maybe ???. WOnder how many actually do though? https://www.gov.uk/trade-licence-plates Trade licence plates are number plates you can use on vehicles your business has for things like selling, repairing or testing. If you display trade licence plates on any vehicle, your employees and customers can drive the vehicle for certain purposes without having to pay to register and tax it. For example, if you sell cars, you can use trade licence plates to allow your customers to test drive vehicles on a road. Interestingly when I bought my Superb it's the first time ever I've taken a test drive (in a dealers car) which had trade plates supplied Also https://www.blueschoolofmotoring.com/blog/2021/03/19/trade-number-plate-laws-in-the-uk/ Trade number plates are still required by those in the motor trade driving a vehicle on public roads even when a vehicle is already registered, taxed and insured by its owner. The trade plates can indicate that the vehicle is being driven by someone other than the registered keeper, and they mean the driver is complying with the trade number plate licence holder’s trade insurance.

“traders have a responsibility of care under the Consumer Rights Act 2015”. The garage might have a sign on their premises saying that they’re not responsible for any damage - this can be considered an ‘unfair term’, which means they’re still liable https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/buying-or-repairing-a-car/problems-with-a-car-repair/ Under the section "If the garage damaged your car" To my mind that's reasonably clear cut, any damage caused is the dealers responsibility and its up to them to argue with any insurance company they may use to cover their "duty of care" obligations

The dancing guess-o-meter is expected. It's completely worthless because it works out car's range from previous few miles of driving. 2013 or earlier Leaf doesn't have the battery % reading. Late 2013 or newer will have much more reliable battery % reading. Always use a metric that directly reports battery energy remaining, same as the fuel gauge. 60 miles to completely empty is pretty good going for 9 health bar Leaf. The video skipped the an important explanation. Nissan cheated, 1st bar is lost at 85%, not 11/12 = 91%. Subsequent bars are lost at ~6.5%. Hence at 9 bars SoH is at 70%. I'd trust my car to go ~50 miles with comfort buffer built in. My 9.5 years old is at 11 health bars, soon to loose 11th. Although it's been at 79% for the last year. As mentioned, 30 battery seems to degrade faster, many 6 years old cars are also at 80% SoH. The slowest degrading battery for first-gen Leaf seems to be the one I have, the 24 pack after 2013.

got new perforated leather on steering wheel done by AutoMix.lv OEM had no wear sign after 14 months

No. Thanks. AG Falco

+1 I did the same with mine - got the AliExpress rear boot spoiler. So far so good and it's still holding strong and not fading.

I had this noise/rattle on both of my Karoq’s, rattle traced to the plastic cover, covering the sensors on the windscreen, in front of the rear view mirror. Quick tweak, no more rattling, only happen when it was warm and with the sun shining in through the windscreen.