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New camera along with a macro lens turned up this afternoon. Took me a while to sort the settings out enough to have a go at a shot. First efforts below.

How about users in Bedfordshire or Hertfordshire?

Hello, there will be no issue with infotainment coding when replacing the battery. You do need to adapt (code) the new battery into the vehicles system - especially if you change from EFB to AGM type. You may be ok if only replacing exactly like for like - but it is always better to get the replacement battery adapted, this will require access to VCDS tool.

For Tesla: https://www.tesla.com/en_gb/support/connectivity No ongoing cost for standard connectivity for first 8 years, this is basic map and live traffic based nav routing. (currently free for everyone) Premium connectivity, benefits see link, is £10 per month. I plan to buy it for 1 month for my road trip to Skye. Software and map OTA updates are downloaded whilst connected to Wi-Fi. Most premium features usable via Wifi (including via phone hotspot) Without any connectivity, cars are still drivable, will also receive software and map updates via Wi-Fi, and bluetooth phone key will still work. Reading the link. It seems I made the cut for lifetime free standard connectivity. For Nissan, as we've seen previously, support ended for 2016 and earlier cars with "CarWings" 😡. 2016-2020 have free connectivity similar to CarWings, ends whenever Nissan decides it's no longer worth it. 2020 or later cars have a subscription cost after first 3 years for different optional service packages (remote control, map update, live traffic) https://www.speakev.com/threads/nissan-connect-pricing-post-free-3-year-complimentary-period.175585/

Current MINI Electric. Almost empty say 5 miles range to full, showing 100% & between 94 & 124 miles range. 3 pin AC charger, 12-15 hours, ambient temp dependent. 11 kW AC charger 3 hours. 43-50 kW DC / CCS charger. 60 minutes maybe. For 2 hours driving say and 95 miles and into a 50 kW charger is is under 60 minutes. If getting 4 miles per kWh maybe 45 mins to 98% and able to drive another 2 hours and 100 miles +. 50KWh battery i used to count it as for 150 miles i needed 70 minutes to be able to then go another 135 miles. 150 miles was very rare from the 45 kWh usable battery, and freezing weather 110 miles was sometimes a wish and a dream. During Covid i had a Porta-Potti in the boot and a pop up tent, because i was travelling and there were no public toilets open. I never needed to use them but i was prepared incase i needed to.

Finally installed! A TUV approved exhaust with active flaps. 😎

? How much a change of circumference / total diameter is there and how many miles do you actually do now compared to what the mileometer tells you. Really you did not change the circumference by that much did you? ? Are they the same width of tyres. (What is on the road surface.) Tyre labels really mean nothing. Give a clue only. LIke the noise they give. nonsense often. Then there is the tyre pressures you are running. All Season Tyres are sometime not as economical as 'All Year / Summer bias' Tyres, and some are actually better, until warmer weather come,

Suggest you put out a shout on the VCDS thread asking for peeps who can assist in London and Home Counties areas.

Yes, you do need to tell the car it has a new battery. Where are you based? I'm sure there is somebody near you with the appropriate kit.

My car is a UK-specification right-hand-drive October 2023-built Fabia SE L DSG. Should anyone wish to fully lower the glove-box unit on the PASSENGER side (to, say, replace the cabin pollen filter) this is what's involved. This photo shows the glove-box unit fully lowered. A and B are 'buttons' that need to be pressed upwards while the top of the glove-box is pulled forwards. The buttons are shown in more detail here The glove-box will then drop halfway done, but will still be supported by a peculiar turret/strut mechanism identified as C in the first photo above and shown in more detail here. Pulling the top edge of the glove-box unit further downwards (No need to pull hard!) will cause the strut to release from the turret (as shown in the photo). The turret is rotatable with a small plastic cog inside. When returning the glove-box unit to its original position, the turret must be in the correct position for the top of the strut to enter an aperture in the turret through which the strut slides. Once the top of the strut is in that aperture, gently lifting the top edge of the glove-box unit upwards will allow the strut and cog to mesh and the strut to click in place. Next lift up the top edge of the glove-box unit so that the plastic 'tabs' on each top corner of the unit come in contact with buttons A and B. Depress the buttons to allow the tabs to pass behind them and the glove-box can now be fully closed.

Being in too high a gear on the approach to a hazard, be it a junction or roundabout is actually the opposite of engine braking, slowing down by using the gears would be engine braking. That said rather like Ken2 I am going to make a conscious effort to keep the revs higher and will report back in due course.

This evening...........

Just purchased our third Skoda!!! In last 9 years, so felt compelled to join the club after having used it for occasional advice. My Phoenix Orange Fabia tsi110 colour edition is a big improvement on my past skodas so hopefully we will keep it for a while because I am not convinced that Electric cars are good value for money or convenience.

The car was on 1896 when I got it. I then updated it to 1941 myself and then 1969 a couple of weeks later. All fine so far.

All-season tyres sometimes have better rolling resistance than summer tyres, as shown in the example below. Continental AllSeasonContact 2 215/55R17 94V (Euro label B B 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m140b0s8825p220589/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_2_215_55_R17_94V_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Michelin Primacy 4+ 215/55R17 94V (Euro label C A 69dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m54b0s1714p210234/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Primacy_4%2B_215_55_R17_94V_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_69dB

Just updated the app and all is working fine.

There is TPI for that problem, dashboard firmware update.

https://www.tesla.com/en_gb/support/software-updates#tesla-accordion-v2-9216-my-software-update-is-stuck-and-wont-continue.-what-should-i-do

It's classed as "First licence rates for cars" payable on registration so thereafter I would suggest it'll be £190 for the year.

I did some tests and made observations on my DSG car yesterday. Its just about impossible to get the rpm to drop below the tickover 800rpm. Even if you select Manual mode in a high gear and then brake, the DSG will still change down before the revs drop below the 800 rpm. So in effect the DSG is pre-empting any anti-stall system that would appear to be faulty in the manual versions. This is my first DSG vehicle, previous ones have always been manual (albeit not VAG 1.5tsi) and whilst my driving style would have been similar to others, in slowing in a high gear, I have never had a problem with any of my vehicles stalling.

I cannot imagine there’s any reason why one would rely on a camera to control a car moving at 70mph on a motorway for 10 seconds, let alone use a system like this for a minute. It’s insanity.

Arhhh, that's where you are now I did wonder. I thought about reporting to a Mod to move but decided against it thinking two's better. Thanks.

By way of an update for my issue, the car has now been given back to Skoda and I've got a brand new DSG version. I assume they will resale this to some other poor sod instead of keeping it off road. I can bet my yearly wage there will be some sort of recall this year or next but if course according to skoda 'there is no fault' I may be financially out of pocket but that's worth not having the fear of an accident everytime I come to a roundabout. Good luck all.

You will want software version 1941 as that has proven stable and likely to be the version installed on a 73 plate car. Version 1969 has been available for around the last month so that might already be installed on the car - you could ask the dealer to apply the 1969 update before collection, they'll likely say "it will come OTA" but in the spirit of keeping the customer happy it's less than 30 minutes workshop time to apply it.

Just to add I would be doubtful that any hardware replacements would be required in relation to software updates. My First Edition was built in October/November 2020 , had no hardware replaced and It's happily running 1969 which is speedy and responsive with zero reboots or crashes. There was a period when Skoda workshops were replacing some Telematics modules that were linked to an unstable SOS problem but now they have developed a firmware fix that addresses that issue.

Welcome. The answers are in the Pinned Threads In the Fabia Mk2 section, but there are many answers. Then there are the many many threads with all the answers in the section since 2010. When a mod moves this thread there there might be people who can help.

Nice of you to put words in other people's mouth. All I'm doing is educating, especially on complex topics. For example, believing Google's 11 kW charge rate, or a random summary article about solar FIT. In your instance, Google isn't wrong, the max on-board AC-DC charger is 11 KW. But DC charging rate can be faster. Able to do multiply and division does not mean able to calculate a complex system..... If you want to use rule of thumb by lowering average travel speed from 70 mph down to 50 mph. It makes EV driving much more feasible because as speed decreases, time between charging increases beyond human capability. Let's do an proper comparable example with the Mini. https://abetterrouteplanner.com/?plan_uuid=2f36d593-2cfb-4f2c-a41a-74ba84eb5d5f 6 hr 50min driving; 2 hr 45min charging. Compared to using MY LR: 6 hr 48min driving; 43min charging. City EV can do long distance, just like early Nissan Leaf have been driven JoG to LE. City EV's need more stops to top up, roughly every hour for the Mini it seems. There's so many charging hubs along trunk road these days it's really non issue. Newer ICE cars are different and don't connect to the internet?

Love the Mail. The Ship did not sink, but the Chinese might shut down the EV,s remotely and bring chaos to the UK roads, economy. Maybe on the day of the General Election when Oliver Dowden MP & Jeremy Hunt MP are just going to be out of a job the next day.

Google is the issue, do better research. It us a max 11 kW AC charging speed, DC on a CCS is 50 kW in a 32.6 kW battery. So 11kW AC being handy if 50 kW chargers are not available. I had a 50 kW Battery car with 45 kW usable and 100 kW max charge speed but only 7 kW AC onboard charger and i was never near 100 kW chargers and the 50 kW were not reliable. I knew the range of the MINI was not great, but the charges can be quick, and if waiting for a charger there is the 11 kW available often and maybe no need to even use the 50 kW if i can just get enough miles added. The downside is that i can not have many miles from the Home charge but then for 3 years before that i was not home charging i could charge free near to home. I brought up Orkney because as i was pointing out there are many different regions of the UK and EV,s are plentiful in different places. Or per capita there are more EV,s being driven. They can suit many people, low mileage drivers and long trip, daily drivers, people are different. Last night i read a story on how many EV,s just arrived off ships from China into the UK. Maybe some are for onward travel to the EU, but there are a good number of cheapish BEV,s away to be First Registered in the UK in the next months. Likely Partners of VW Group vehicles to stop them being up sh!t creak without enough of their own BEV,s to First Register. The New electric MINI,s with 80 or 100 kW Max charging and longer ranges will be arriving from China into the UK this year. This is from a Google search and then the papers are maybe not to be trusted.

an additional problem (mainly impacting potentially older cars that don't have dealer service history ) is that apparently mainy dealer now wont pass on servicing info in the form of receipts etc if they include previous owners name & address details (GDPR, same reason the V5 doesn't show it any more).

I second the dealer visit for a firmware that old. I've heard that some of the older firmware version' were less stable during the update process and therefore easier to brick a unit. But have my doubts about any need for a hardware replacement. I'm running 1969 on H56 with an even older display/control unit. You should only require a new unit if the dealer themselves brick it or there is an actual fault.

No. With that low number software/firmware revision it requires a visit to a dealer to be updated to iirc 1869 and a possible hardware replacement as well, before you can make the jump to 1941 & 1969 software/firmware revisions. Please don't try and install 1969 on that as you may end up having to have a new infotainment system.

I would be very surprised that Skoda upgrade the 4x4 with a new generation Haldex on a model which is close to its end of life. I would better understand if Gen 6 were implemented on Superb Mk4... But who knows... 🫤 @leolito Here are the OEM references: Both Haldex pump seals kit: 0CQ598305 (approx €27 in february 2023). But my memory fooled me. Both screws to mount the Haldex pump back in place are not part of the kit mentionned above. They're sold separately. Ref N10554005. It seems they don't have to be replaced upon pump removal, since they don't figure on the invoice I've got. Nevertheless the draining plug and the filling plug DO have to be changed for new ones upon Haldex oil replacement. Draining plug: N91082701 (approx. €4.20) Filling plug : N90281802 (approx €4.80) Oil : G0600175A2 (approx. €49) Note: Haldex oil can only contains 850ml, while the quantity to fill in the Haldex is approximately 650 to 750 ml. Thus better check twice that the can is correctly filled when you buy it. Use the level indicator on the side of the can for that. It happened to me last time. Though bought by my local dealer, there were roughly 100ml missing in the brand new oil can. Also better avoid any spillage when operating.

Hi this is my newly acquired superb, its been a bit of a project needing a few bits done but it feels good to drive despite age.

I bought my VRS 245 estate almost a year ago to the day. First thing I did was a full service including the Diff. The Diff oil is pretty pricey, make sure the filter is removed and cleaned. I’d get the DSG done as well. Mine is the DQ381 which I think is scheduled for an oil and filter change at 80k but my VAG specialist recommends 40k. Mine is overdue and being done in 2 weeks. Mine has the carbon effect centre console and is pretty scratched as well. I’ll give it some attention at some point. I’ve also toyed with the idea of doing the reverse camera but not got round to it yet. Im having Eibach pro springs with full geometry, fast road setup etc done in July and also stage 1 ECU & TCU map. These map really well by all accounts and make good power with just the map. Ive also added turbo elbow, intake pipe and DIY air intake mod. I absolutely love mine. It’s quick enough, not hideous (but not great) on fuel, really comfortable and fits an enormous amount of things, people, kids, and dogs in it.

Good points! It took a concious amount of effort to drive with that level of economy. It was only curiosity (combined with commuting boredom) that I thought Id try to see what I could get out of it if I actively tried drive economically. Its actually quite taxing - ive never used the eco setting before but noticed it was switching the engine off when I could lift off the throttle and coast for a bit which I found a bit disconcerting so disabled it. I dont really rag it but do try to drive with a sense of purpose normally on that commute and would typically average around 38-39mpg on the run in "normal" mode. I'd be interested to see if anyones averaged 50mpg over a similar length run of say an hour and a half as I think I might be able to eek another .5mpg if i really tried and kept the auto stop start thing on.

Hi All, Found this topic as searching for how updates can be done. From the look of my details, I presume I cannot attempt this at home ? Device Part Number: 5E3035816F Hardware: H56 Software 1804 Display unit / control panel hardware H47 Display unit / control panel software 2092 Navigation Database: 20.7 Media Codec: 3.1.4 Radio database 1.30.24 Skoda UK just said dealer says can be done OTA. ? Dealer near me are useless in any case Noted a lot of links, if anyone struggling to download, get it from this one. https://trafficsims.myftp.org/s/2AbTBw6fbsG642P Use Password BriSkoda!

The parts catalogue page for the front door locks is HERE. The main body of the lock is item 1.

Not wrong and you dont need a degree in Thermodynamics to realise, anyone who has owned petrol and diesel vehicles used for short urban journeys will know simply by how much they save at the fuel pumps. "even more de minimus on a diesel engine where there is no enrichment as soon as the compression ignition cycle is self sustaining," Are you going to say that is wrong on so many levels? A simple yes or no will suffice, save another demonstration of your extensive knowledge for someone that might be impressed by it. To explain for others a petrol engine runs an enriched mixture (choke = low MPG) until it reaches operating temperature, a diesel engine runs an enriched mixture only for starting on glowplugs, once it has started no further enrichment after a maximum of a couple of seconds. Modern petrol engine achieve impressive economy on long journeys, rivalling and even beating diesel but will never hold a candle to a diesel on short journeys, unfortunately for anything EU5 and onwards short journeys are a catastrophy for the DPF so petrol is better even though it will cost more on fuel.

Tried more tar remover, wd40, isopropyl.... But nothing would really seem to touch it. Sunny day, an old credit card and a bit more bravery has pretty much done it! Hopefully the rest of the stuff had helped soften it 😂 was lucky with the weather, was waiting to get a hair drier on it as next step but in the end didn't need too. Thanks all

It's easy to switch it off. You just need an ODBELEVEN dongle with the VAG software and switch off the soundikator.

Quick walk around the Res this evening (think it was a little too late to spot any ducklings sadly)...............

I'm wondering if that epoxy repair is actually hiding a crack in the casing suffered when the fin was broken off.

Just following up on the point @J.R. has made - I agree - the fundamental issue is the differential is not fit for purpose if it is leaking, regardless of the hole, and clearly you still have a non-functioning 4x4 system. Personally, I wouldn't be happy with a second hand differential that has had a 'hole drilled i it' either. I'd therefore be pushing for another replacement differential and for them to fully sort the 4x4 system. They've already had one go at fixing it and have failed so I think it's now a case of rejecting the car or taking some legal advice on what to do next.

I looked at parts catalogue, and for the fronts there are different part numbers for vRS vs non. Rears same though. Some strong gaffa tape on the inside surface will probably work as a repair

Yikes... its there for a reason! As much as adas systems are there for a reason and have came a long way, they are far from perfect and not to be relied on. They are just assist systems and not fully autonomous. If you cant steer the car in the direction in needs to go once every 10 seconds, then there are other issues. To answer the question, yes it can be done and has been done by some - but I wont be showing anyone how to do it/where to do it or such, sorry.

Bear in mind also that, as far as I am aware, the haldex system doesn't flag any dash errors, so the first thing you know about it not working as, as you've found, when it doesn't work. This is a really useful site generally and this page especially in terms of fault finding: VW Audi Generation 5 Haldex Fault Finding Repair Guide – Haldex Parts and ECU Repairs by Auto Fault Finder Ltd (haldexrepairs.co.uk)

The warranty in Aus starts from date of first registration.

This is the Project section and your post might be getting missed. I will ask a mod again to move it to the Octavia Mk4 section. ??????????? Does the Manufacturers Warranty really run from when Manufactured, leaves the factory? GET THE TERMS OF THAT MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY IN WRITING SHOWING WHAT YOU WERE TOLD TO BE SURE THEY ARE ACTUALLY BEING HONEST. Not in the UK. The Warranty starts From First Registered. Cars can sit months even possibly a year before First Registered, not just the Covid years, in Europe they were bunkered for months waiting for the WLTP certification. ? Why not get an aftermarket alarm fitted, maybe even better than the factory one? Certainly better than your factory fit.