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A while ago I made a thread to show dirty superbs instead of all clean and this was my pictures @Steviedakota You said something like “I hate to break it to you but your liner isn’t working” and for the 2 years or so every time I opened the boot I remembered what you said and laughed every time 😂 but today I’ve just fitted this much better, although foul words were used as it was a pain to make it fit and had to use some of my own velcro as IMO it needed it on the back of the seats

My solar was installed 15 years ago and is long since paid off and is now pure profit. My battery is on a zero percent government loan. The combination of the two mean that even in the depths of winter when it was minus 11 the total cost of home energy plus car fuel was £123 for the month. No one said it's free but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than the flammable liquid I used to use. 🤷

We were going to go to Leonardslee over near Horsham today, but the weather was foul when we got up ☂️ And once it stopped raining it was damp, cold and breezy. So we went to Manor Gardens in Bexhill as we'd never been before (well I had, but it was for a Speed Awareness Course ) and it was a lot closer. Anyway, these gardens are a lovely tranquil little oasis, probably less than two acres, but it was smashing, and I think give it a couple of weeks and the roses and rhododendrons will be out in full bloom 😎: Gaz

Fuel consumption with tyres has to be compared over a year or at the same period of the year, since it’s more sensitive to ambient temperature.

With that low mileage the rust (which always forms) won't have had much opprotunity to be worn off, so I would say perfectly normal and OK.

They snap their turbine spindle with makes the compressor wheel fall off and allow oil from the turbo into the charge air system and they run away. Only experienced it once, new underwear required.

Changed the original disc and pads on my Combi yesterday. Originals from factory had done 36k miles. No significant wear to discs, but badly corroded and scored across approx 40% of braking area. Pads still had plenty of friction material left. Used Brembo (coated) discs and pads, with VCDS (new to this software) to retract EPB. Connected battery charger first as most articles I had read said do that. Cycled EPB on and then off. Ran full auto-scan first and stored results. Went into ABS module, checked no brake errors and ran Started brake lining change (or something like that). Error messages on dash about EPC and rear alert etc. Turned ignition off. Started on drivers side - piston pressed back in easily. Caliper easy to remove. Old disc a little stuck but a few taps with lump hammer and it soon moved. Disc comes off without removing caliper carrier!! Makes changing so easy. These are 312mm vented. After refitting with new disc and pads I pressed the brake pedal to hold wheel whilst torqueing wheel bolts. When I then tried in VCDS to end lining procedure it wouldnt - error values out of range. Decided not to panic and changed nearside disc and pads (again very easy). Pressed brake pedal to toque wheel bolts. In VCDS ran full scan again, Went into ABS module, checked errors codes, one for being in lining change mode. Went into basic setting to run end lining change. It did it! Went back to clear error code, and now everything works as it should. All very easy to do.

nah they can just "buy in" some allowances from companies such as BYD that have technically exceeded the annual target ;o) Its all part of the big con Any manufacturer selling more ZEVs than required (and therefore selling fewer non-ZEVs than they were permitted to) will have spare allowances that they can sell on the open market to manufacturers that have not sold enough ZEVs. https://www.fleetnews.co.uk/news/manufacturer-news/2023/09/21/zev-mandate-electric-vehicle-targets-to-remain-for-carmakers

"Vin Flinger". Now there's a name for an adventure film hero

I'm back🙂 Can't remember the part numbers of the pipes. But it was certainly not just plug-and-play. Do you have the installation manual, if not, I can email a pdf version.

The BEV,s are being built around the world and it is getting to be less and less in the UK not more. They work very well for many Couriers, Private Hire / Taxis, and town / city cars and cars going further afield. What a song and dance there is from many that might never have even tried one and has no intention in the next 11 years of getting one. 'Just say no'. See your driving years out in whatever you damn well want. It might never happen, you might step out in front of a silent vehicle tomorrow. Or a V8 if you are a bit Mutt & Jeff and maybe the eyesight is going and your reactions.

Unfortunately due to potholes a usb turntable in the car is impractical

The 1980's called about ball bearing turbos... Joking aside, the turbo use oil bushes to float the shaft journals, when the shaft breaks the oil is pumped past the seals straight into the inlet and the engine runs away. Tldr, the turbo has failed catastrophically.

Trouble is seat comfort is an individual thing. Years( er decades) ago I had a top of the range Renault Savanna 2.0 company car that "initially" felt as though it had really comfy seats but a 100 mile into a long drive my back started twinging and after about 300 miles I could hardly walk - can't blame age then as I was only in my late 20's! After that I had a Saab 9000cs and wow those seats were fab - Once I drove all the way through Europe to Munich in one go, not a twinge. I find I like most VAG seats (currently Superb mkII) as the firmness suits me but I have a friend who really hates them. I you start swapping seats - beware airbags.

The original Capri was often known by an anagram of its name (Crapi), and it's sounds like the new one will inherit that dubious honour.

That worked! The other key must have been configured to unlock all doors. Your help is much appreciated! Thank you!

But to offset that the new "VW" Amarok Mk2 is actually a Ford Ranger in disquise.

@ChaybobbTidbit Decision on pressures is from driving vehicles of all types but pretty much automatics over the past 5 decades in all seasons on many tyre types and sizes so 50 winters and springs, summers and autumns. Grip / Traction (Friction) and safe driving in the wet, cold. snow, sleet & ice being more than important than the MPG really. Summer time i might run tyres a bit higher pressure in quite warm weather if not doing 'Spirited driving'. But then it can be horribly wet roads you encounter even in the summer. But then simple enough to adjust tyre pressures. A good tyre pressure gauge and a way to inflate tyres is 'Simply Clever' to have now with the price of going someplace to inflate your tyres.

Replacing the tow bar module is very unlikely to help. You will also need to recode and parameterise the replacement module after fitting. I think you're looking in the wrong place, the workshop manual states it's near the brake pedal: I'll say it again - get the car on some proper diagnostic equipment and see why it's not working rather than guessing. By randomly replacing parts you're just going to make the diagnosis harder...

First Ducklings we've seen this year.......

Put a new power cable for car amplifier. Just wanted to share the easiest way. Remove battery and air filter unit. At the marked spot there is a rubber grommet already available. Cut small hole and put cable through. It will be accessible directly at the drive side.

@Graham Butcher I know what you mean. & there are Hybrid TAXI,s / Black cab style that are wheel chair accessable. & Mini Bus style, and ones used by Care Homes / Disabled Centres & by Car Clubs etc Ambulance Transport. Location location location when it comes to rules. There are luxury ones used commonly. VIP transport, Airport Transport. These look like a great concept for wheel chair user / drivers for their use or family / passenger use. With EV,s the world is your oyster once the Platform is there to build the vehicles on.

Overnight was heavy rain, into the morning, so bit of a write off. The weather got a little clearer in the afternoon so tried to get some quicker simpler things done. Went over the brake pads, where they contact and slide along the carrier, with the same flap wheel I used for said carriers: Only one pad seems to have its original stainless spring clips fully intact: One has one completely snapped, and 3 have a metal bit on the other side snapped off, so just went at them with the flap wheel to get them as clean as possible. Not too fussed as eventually these will be all be renewed over the next few years. Interesting that these cars have them physically riveted onto the brake pads, they're usually bits that clip into the carrier, or sometimes nothing at all. I presume its a small bit of stainless to reduce rust being a factor in gumming them up. Anyways, copper greased the contact areas on the carrier and slid them in: It's better than it was the first time they were dry fitted, but still not super smooth all round, some were fine, other's a bit stiffer. I'll keep an eye on them over the first few months on the road. The bolts for the caliper to the carrier had some blue threadlocker on them, so reapplied some fresh stuff: Then went and retracted the calipers: This is mainly to make it a lot easier to put them back on, and to gauge whether these calipers are going to be trouble in the medium term. They retracted in fine. Got some anti squeal paste and put it on the piston, and the backs of the pads where it'll touch the piston on the inside and the caliper on the outside, then put it in place: It was a 13mm socket for the bolt, and a 17mm spanner on the slider pin to counter hold it. These were tightened to 35Nm. So simply a case of doing the same on the other side: Definitely easier to do with the steering turned appropriately as per the pics above. Again, the pads were sliding better, just stiff on a couple of them. Used the flap wheel to clean the caliper piston face: Although it's really hard to tell given it's still manky. They all eventually look like this I suppose. But as per the other side, attached and tightened to 35Nm: I'll need to get those brake hose clamps tapped into the brackets for the hoses, but otherwise, that's it. The calipers were sliding horizontally without issue, easy to check with them retracted and the pads looking like halfway through their life. Went into the car and gently pressed the brake pedal a few times to get those pistons out and ready. The pic above shows the wheel bolts already rusting from the rain, so I'll probably need to clean those up again, then spray some of that XCP stuff on them once the wheels are on. Didn't want to risk getting caught out by the rain, so packed up for the day. Maintenance: £2227.01 Upgrades: £1322.97 Miscellaneous: £697.20

Totally agree about finite life of additives in coolant and oil - but I've not seen anything from VW saying Fabia Mk3 change of coolant at 5 years - that's not to say there might not be any just that I haven't seen them, I have seen the "for life" bit though for the coolant (and oils in other vehicles and circumstances) but that's not to say I believe it. I think I changed the coolant in my wife's 2015 Fabia at 5, 6 or 7 years but can't remember, I must have been in a rare good mood with the car when I eventually done it, I think I had the coolant sitting around for about a year from buying it.

With the way that car manufacturers try to upsell items, I would have thought that replacing the coolant would appear on service schedules - especially now that timing belts last longer than the 5 years and the water pumps on lots of engines have stopped carrying the load of the camshaft drive. Going by what I've noticed with my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI - so a car that didn't get fitted with a silicate pouch, 8 years/48miles seems to be as long as I should leave the factory fitted coolant in that car - so a job for this year for me!

Yes, I think they would still be here, people have always loved to have the very latest thing on the block and always will. We had loads of Toyota Prius's around yours ago when there was no government legislation, slowly ramping up the pressure on us to switch. Governments would have done better, I think, to have sat back and watched, facilitated the installation of the national support system for them and let the flow gather pace, just as they have done with rise of mobile phones and then onto smartphones, they have achieved world domination, and it was all done by making them desirable and what has now largely become peer pressure.

Yeah I’ve noticed if you have phone connected via wireless CarPlay it won’t connect to the camera. (It tries to connect to the camera and disconnects from the HU before failing the connection attempt and reconnecting to the HU). If I connect the phone to the car via USB cable instead the connection to the camera works fine. Not a deal breaker for me as I’m used to just taking files off the card onto my laptop with my previous camera so I can do the same with this one. I’m also going to look at connecting the camera to WiFi as the router in the house is located a few feet from where the car is parked on the drive so need to look at what can be done with that connectivity method etc……

Really ? I remember when I had an Audi, the bulb changing section in the handbook had one short paragraph of instructions , 'Take to your Audi dealer' 😀

IMHO all vehicles should come with front and rear mudguards as standard to reduce spray from tyres in bad weather, regardless of whether they keep the car cleaner or not.

Yep that was all good

Hello, welcome to the forum. You say the oil level is 'fine' - are you certain that it's not lower than when you last checked, before this runaway event? Had you recently topped up oil before this happened?

I recently did a 5,5hr trip to Dundee. Perfectly comfortable. And on the return. I've only done 48000 miles. Foam does collapse eventually. Apart from early Polos all my VW group cars have been comfortable. Only ever got to 140,000 miles in a Passat diesel. Repair costs to older cars get tedious and expensive. My old Renault 18 TS had extremely comfortable seats even with limited adjustment.

As posted above - check ur Door unlocking selection under Open and Closing settings....

Thanks Skomaz. Followed your suggestions - removed the unit which is now almost dried out - it appears to have been the seal in the lampholder, which was the problem. One it's fully dried (hairdryer very useful here!) I'll re-install it and keep an eye on it. Thanks again. Much appreciated!

The MEB platform is used in cars across the VAG group of companies not just the iD4 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_Group_MEB_platform

Have you tried pressing the unlock button on the fob twice ?

"Ford Explorer" is an ID4 which Ford have fitted their own body on to. It sounds 80% plus VW.

Totally agree. I have a good pressure gauge and a handheld Aldi battery pump (which is brilliant btw) in the boot at all times. The gauge on the pump reads 1psi low, so I set that to +1psi to achieve the correct pressure.

TESLA make billions from this in the US, as well as their electricity sales on the charging network, and are looking to do the same in Europe now.

And the P7’s they replaced lasted 37,000 and still had 2 - 2.5mm remaining. My son rips through tyres at an alarming rate; 10-12k at most because he brakes late and screams round corners. What I’m saying is driving style is the paramount reason behind early or late tyre wear, nothing else. These tyre-test sites do not represent the real-world experiences; the Michelins on my first Superb covered 63k before I replaced them, albeit 90% of driving was motorway at that time.

My initial post dealt with fully-lowering the large 'glove box' on the Fabia's passenger side, not the small storage department on the driver's side. Soon after I bought my Fabia I checked where the fuse-boxes were. I could see the one in the cab to the rear of the small storage compartment on the driver's side, but I did not bother to confirm how straightforward it would be to access that fuse-box. When it became apparent from this forum thread (and from other UK on-line comments) that there could be difficulty removing the small storage compartment, I thought I had better experiment. The relevant information in the hard-copy Owner's manual for my 2023-built Fabia differs from the "Access to the fuses" image you provided in your first posting above. This is the image in my cars paper manual and in the relevant on-line Owner's manual. You'll see that no mention is made of a 'tray' and the instruction to "Press the locking button and open the fuse box" is potentially confusing. It's perhaps worth observing that the equivalent image in the very latest English-language on-line Owner's manual is unambiguous and more detailed but, despite following those instructions to the letter, I was still unable to remove the storage 'box' easily by pulling it towards me. The "Accessing the fuses" images in the Manuals clearly relate to left-hand-drive Fabias and I did wonder if difficulty removing the small storage compartment was peculiar to right-hand-drive Fabia MkIV cars. A cursory search of French and German Skoda-related forums found no similar complaints, which might be significant or just mean that French/German Skoda owners are less concerned about using brute force.

Don’t have any difference in MPG, moving from P7’s to Conti All Seasons.

I’d be looking at the condensation, removing the light and drying it, checking any breather holes are clear and seals are ok and putting it back to test myself.

WHich given current pump prices locally to me (.143 per l) and based on a fuel consumption of 40mpg is also £6.50 for 40 miles worth of petrol. Hang on I need a rewind . Do people keep saying public charging points are extortionate or am I going mad? Maybe compared to if you are fortunate enough to have home charging but it isn't feeling any more expensive than running a petrol car

That looks like it would be suitable.

Is 2.0 TSI 4x4 already available on Superb 4 in your country? Lucky you!

From this evenings walk.......

Actually, they do. Especially the rear ones. They significantly reduce dirt projection on the bottom of the rear bumper, which has a long overhang.

My Skoda main dealer retrofitted the reversing camera, and they lifted the plastic sill covers with ease. They’re largely held in place by the rubber door seals, I’m not sure what all the fuss is about…

Latest brochure which includes Superb mk IV and Kodiaq mk II https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/6d5c59b3-5d97-451a-ab78-2ef185e6e373 Includes codes, and the tyre sizes.