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How long has it been like this? Clearly a DPF issue and as well as the DPF and/or sensors being in trouble your oil will be a terrible way as with endless aborted regens(100rpm/ fans etc...) diesel will be running down the bores (used for active regens) and if like this long term it's not a good lubricant so could ultimately cause problems with things like bores & turbo. This is potentially serious so get it to a VAG specialist asap. I'd suggest not driving much until diagnosed properly.

If there are any marks on the piston(s), there could be hotspots which may cause piston failure. A case of you pays your money and takes yer chances.

Cannot compare prices as we are far far away but I am a longtime happy supporter of LPG, it is a valid alternative fuel, cheaper, cleaner, and otherwise wasted during the oil extraction/processing. Pity it is not so supported as it could be. I have been running various cars on LPG for more than 20 years now, a few installed by yours truly as well when I was in the trade. Yeah, there are a number of drawbacks: cost of installation but especially QUALITY of the installation (I cannot stress this enough), fact that you have a second complete fuel system which requires proper calibration (another no no with most installers), a minimal loss of luggage space/spare tire (which can be a problem in the Micra, but not really on a large car like a Superb), range and refuelling is not a drama if you can plan it accordingly, and you have to schedule a couple extra tasks in the servicing (e.g. LPG filter replacement, and so on). But the pluses are absolutely worth ... at the local prices, running the 280 on "live" petrol costs me more or less the same than my venerable P38 4.6HSE with its horrible gas guzzling RV8 per km. In other words, the ~12km/lt I make on the Superb (long haul) is compatible with the 5-6km/lt of the RR with a fuel around 60% cheaper than petrol - in my case. I had before an A6 Avant with the 2.8 193cv and was averaging 8-10km/lt which was in cost terms what an A4 1.9TDI would cost, but with a different level of performance and sophistication. Anyway, each makes its choice. The Superb offers a nice hole for a tank, I recon a 60lt fits easily if not 64/66 (got to measure how deep it is), which allows for a good capacity and range. My LPG colleague/installer mentioned for my engine type (DNF) only Prins is available as an option, and a system would set me back around 1500 eur. Must consider this runs at a 5-15% proportion to petrol, unlike indirect injection engines which can be fully switched. The double injector engines cannot be converted to run on LPG, at least this I was told. Even with this consideration, for a long run the advantage is considerable. I do not see as a drawback the "losing" of a spare tire, I use the Micra for a runabout in town since 3yrs/36k km and the spare sleeps in the garage since then. Same for the RR and my previous Audi, except when I make a long trip and then in that case I load it up, yes it bothers and takes some space, but you tend to forget when the wallet thanks you .... I still got warranty left on mine so for now I just go along, but will see in the future. PS: to the OP, I think for the driving you need to do you will hate the iV with a passion. That small capacity engine on such a large body and FWD is not for that use. Today I made 420km in exactly the type of roads you describe, and the capability to 'point and shoot' given by a more than decent powerplant is simply almost exhilarating. I hope I can remove the "almost" once I deal with the laggy pedal 🤪😝

Well, I really don’t think you can compare a high performance, 2.0 4cyl turbocharged engine, to a small capacity V8 and I’d be surprised if it would be a particularly successful implementation, but you pays your money. I disliked the LPG experience albeit that was a long time ago and if the OP wants to invest their hard-earned, good luck to them. On that point, what is the cost of an LPG conversion these days?

Works perfectly. Shows distance sensors. Sound works too. There is an icon to turn it off. And additional image settings - color, contrast... As in the original.

No, that’s complete nonsense .

I thought it would be useful to create this separate topic and collate information as now Infotainment Software Version 1969 is out in the wild I imagine user interest will increase. All credit to those who posted information in other threads - I hopefully have credited you all where necessary. Feel free to comment on your own experiences and observations. Despite saying I was going to wait for this update to come OTA, based on the principle of “If it ain’t broken….” I bit the bullet and applied the 1969 update manually this morning (I'm a sucker for an update). All went very smoothly and took around 20 minutes. Seems an obvious point but to put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. I followed a previous guide for version 1941 by @TheWanderer which was invaluable. I highly recommend watching the YouTube video in the instructions as you are updating as it is a useful reference of the stages your system is going through. I have copied and pasted his guide below but it’s not my work, full credit to @TheWanderer for this: Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet for example MIB3 UG. Then find the zip file and then right click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to MIB3 UG folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished, format a usb memory stick so it's completely empty, then go to the folder MIB3 UG open it and copy the 2 folders and other file directly onto the memory stick. When it has finished copying the files to the memory stick it should look something like this... THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES THAN THIS. Once your memory stick looks like this, remove it and take it to the car. Insert it into a USB port, press and hold the menu button for about 10 seconds and the update menu will appear. At this point it's vital that you have a full or very well charged car battery or a battery charger attached so that the car doesn't shutdown halfway through the process. Ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. Here's a video that shows you what to do, albeit in German, you'll get the English version! If you watch it carefully you'll get the gist of what to do. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you Once it has been updated, there should be no more random restarts or crashes on the infotainment system, the pop pop issue should be gone too.. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU

ever wondered how they work? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLm7Q92xMjQ

It took a fair bit of searching - but the information I found suggests that the 2017 vRS 230 has a cam chain, not belt.

I should just be allowed to throw rocks at them or something

Today I had a quick trip in which ~200km were with a bothersome drizzle and I really can say the mudflaps were a worthy addition, even actually I was having the rear wiper which goes once every tot seconds to kind 'scrape' so dry it was the rear window. A difference with my earlier trip without them ... good, one more thing done! 😊

So he has to accelerate hard, to keep the fuel consumption below 40mpg.

I have a 2016 Octavia L&K Octavia 3 and have found the seats very comfortable even with my ong standing back injury. Yesterday I drove from Bath to Exeter and back with no back problems at all.

working on the presumption that LPG mpg is 20% lower than petrol then based on 34 mpg(petrol) then that would be 27.2 mpg (LPG) So thats 551 gallons / 2503 litres of LPG to do the same 15000 miles which at £0.80 per litre is £2003 Which is approx £317 less per year than the diesel so about 6.9 years to pay for the LPG conversion Its approx £1297 cheaper than petrol so slightly less than 2 years payback (higher if your petrol MPG is better than 34mpg) (think I got that right)

@Ootohere I meant £13 extra a year for insurance not £13 total, would be great though if it were that!

Ok we'll have to agree to disagree on that one then, outside estimate is 24months. Insurance wise it cost £13 per annum provided it is done with a registered certified installer and is recorded on drivelpg co.uk, so no big cost to it on that front at least. I've no idea why the Audi is being converted, I'm only guessing, the installer only mentioned it when I prompted him by asking if there were any implications for higher bhp cars, he gave that one as an example, I assume as it was fresh in his head.

Think it was a Rover 45

Genuinely dumbstruck when I saw this today. Local McLaren garage is £160ph…

I enquired about the loom, no UK stock and not on UK price file.

This picture was taken inside a Main Skoda dealer

No, don't try and pull that off, that's the screen itself.

Try a new good quality cable

@SuperBmE Welcome. What temperature did you want the interior to get to, with no Climate Control on? and if there are vents open the temperature outside is going to be what comes into the vehicle if it is not getting heated. Or am i missing something?

"Cold air" What temperature was the outside ambient air? What temperature did you have the CC set to? AFAIK you cannot turn the Climate Control off, only the AC refrigeration and drying component of it and even then it is not actually off but pumping a very slight amount of refrigerant. My non CC vehicle under certain heat settings provides much cooler ambient air from the dashboard vents compared to the footwell vents. The problem, if indeed there is one, maybe with one of the temperature sensors in the ventilator or screen ducts.

Service Desk Receptionist !! Need I say more !!

That is an oxymoron! That does not make sense, did you mean "more miles"?

Interesting video, it led me to this one about electric cars Can anyone else see the error at 1 minute 24 seconds? I wondered why Raymond Baxter was wearing a huge coat which obsructed him from getting out of the Peel until later on I noticed the electric cable trailing out of it, the car may have been battery powered but the presenter wasn't. If he can extract himself from a Peel I do not accept Graham with the big feet's claims that he cannot get into anything smaller than a Skoda Superb especially when he said he once drove a Mini, the original one that is not the obese abortion that carries the name today. * The original Mini not the original Graham* 😃

I'm sure that on variable service setting, the ECU is continually assessing the "remaining time/miles to service", the miles bit is easy, the time bit gets calculated from "engine use and oil temperatures" so that many short journeys "knock down" the remaining days more than just calendar days. My wife's old 2002 VW Polo, while it was outside warranty and still on variable servicing used to give out a service reminder after roughly 19 months, the way she used that car - though I was changing the oil every 12 months, and eventually changing the servicing to "fixed". So it looks like your exceedingly frequent use on very short journeys has prompted that "early" service warning, which, if I was you, I'd be taking on board and get the car serviced ASAP, and probably get the service scheduling changed to fixed.

I think the final count is now 69 sites open to all.

What scanner did you use? I'd be amazed given the glow lamp light came on, the DPF lamp comes on and going into limp too, that there are no codes stored hence you should get a VAG specialist to scan it.

Aberdeen will make such a difference for me. Council 50 kW chargers are 47 pence but pretty hopeless and unreliable. The Supercharger hub is so handy. (I am charging near at the LIDL anyway at 65 pence a kWh.) Broxton Park & Ride Superchargers just for reliability will make a difference but the new Charger Hub if chargers are working is cheaper, (I have not used them yet.) but only 50 kW so big battery and fast charging cars might well go to the top of the car park for the Tesla chargers. Perth Superchargers. & the new council chargers last year.

For people considering ordering a new Fabia , this recent forum thread may be of interest https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/523013-fabia-specs-revised-april-2024/

More Tesla SuC open to all, out of around 140 in total: https://www.speakev.com/threads/first-tesla-v4-superchargers-in-uk.179536/page-19#post-3601840 As far as I can tell, Tesla have opened up the following twenty-two V2 / V3 sites today: Norwich Wyboston London - North Greenwich Dartford Dartford (Service Centre) Sevenoaks Flimwell London - Gatwick Portsmouth Amesbury Bristol - Cribbs Causeway Camborne Exeter - Darts Farm Reading - Katesgrove Reading Oxford - Redbridge Nottingham (Service Centre) Nottingham - Victoria Centre Derby Leeds - Whitehouse Street Aberdeen (Service Centre) Perth In summary there are currently 64 open-to-non-Tesla sites now in the UK. Made up of 49 V2/V3 sites (20 of those opened today) and 15 of V4 sites.

I rather suspect they will say it's not coming back to the essentials app, because "a load of reasons that really are about saving them money somewhere". I hope I'm wrong, though this new to me non essentials one is growing on me I think. I can't imagine why there were ever two in the first place. So if you get any answer, let us know.

I had been billed £12 again for the CPS RFID card that was sent and billed with old Direct Debit method in March. Asked why when I received the invoice, no response. DD charged yesterday and sent Email again yesterday asking for refund. This is very poor.

Welcome to Briskoda. Sounds like it could be a DPF problem. In any event, the first thing I suggest you do, is get the car to a good independent VAG specialist and scanned for fault codes, as this will definitely point to the cause of the increasing number of issues you’re experiencing.

Personally, I’d say with the installation cost, the loss of performance from the LPG and the doubtful long-term viability of LPG in general (what do you do if said LPG garages stop retailing it?) I’d’ve thought this would be a no-no. I ran a Mondeo with LPG for a while and it was bloody awful - terrible performance and you’d only get about 100 miles from the LPG too….and no spare wheel either, unless you wanted no boot space. Depending on the openness of the roads you commute, I could foresee you could get about 35mpg on 99oct petrol with the 280 on a 60 mile trip, possibly more in warmer weather. That would be reduced to 23/25 on shorter commutes.

As an aside, you don't have to warm the engine to suck out the oil using a pump, it isn't really necessary these days at all in fact because modern synthetic oils are so thin when cold.

So the 1.0 TSI with VW508 00 / 509 00 0w20 FS IV oil can be on variable flexible servicing and 18,000-20,000 mile Oil & Filter service intervals. 24 months. Or every 4 1/2 months in your case. I would ask the Service Manager where ever you had the service done just what whoever changed it to 3,200 is playing at and where they came up with the guff you were told. ?? Did they actually use Long Life oil, so the VW508 00 /509 00. or even VW504 00 / 507 00, 5w 30 FS III or maybe 0w 30 FS III or something else? Like VW502 00 Not Long Life Oil.

As per other users, my brand new, March 2024 built and delivered Karoq SEL had serious connection (rapid disconnection) issues with wireless Android Auto, The car came with MIB3 software version 0324 which is still listed as the latest version. I was advised by Skoda that an OTA update to version 0330 should be available - but after waiting a few weeks and being impatient, I downloaded the update myself with guidance from mib-helper.com and then mibsolution.one and installed using a memory stick in the USB C socket.. I can confirm that Android Auto now connects wirelessly and stays connected with version 0330.

To be fair most manufacturers will say the same with aftermarket towbars and I certainly agree if bypass relays are used and cuts to wiring are made. It is a grey area, if Skoda have given the car a GTW figure then it is homologated to tow that weight whatever Skoda may say. Dedicated vehicle specific electrics should not require modifications to wiring looms. I'd run it by my local dealer who we've had 16 cars from first. I doubt there'll be an issue.

To follow this up I have this working quite well now using this set of instructions. https://core-electronics.com.au/guides/detect-speed-raspberry-pi/ I did upgrade to a Pi 4b with more memory. It's taken some tweaking but it is producing pretty reliable results now. In contact with the community council initially to see what can be done with the data. One of our regular little neds - The red box is the detection area. The green box is the object detected. the green box doesn't always surround the car sometimes it picks up on a part, or lights for instance. the system doesn't detect cars as such, it detects moving objects and tracks the object through the detection area comparing frames. It has some known values taken from a reference calibration image which it useses to calculate the speed.

IMHO all vehicles should come with front and rear mudguards as standard to reduce spray from tyres in bad weather, regardless of whether they keep the car cleaner or not.

I ordered one of these from Amazon, fits a treat although I don't get loads of charge but enough to keep my phone topped up, it did work well from a wall socket so could be the car USB hasn't that much power. I went for the 30cm cable option. Wireless Car Charger Pad, REESTECQI 15W Car Wireless Charger Pad Non Slip Wireless Charging Pad

First push of the main beam stalk puts them into auto/matrix mode..... If you actually want the main beam on all the time you need to push the stalk forward a second time.

I think the cost of charging from solar is a point of view type of argument. On the one hand if I put a solar kWh in my car I don't get paid 15p export, but on the other hand I save around 20p by not paying for it from the grid. Which view is right, am I saving 20p or losing 15p? I like to think I save 15p off the 20p (5p net cost) for every kWh that my car gets from solar. This is how I account for that solar energy on my car cost spreadsheet. I've kept track of every kWh I've put in the car, so I don't delude myself over what going EV has cost me. Its working out about even costs with previous diesel car including monthly finance payments - EV lower running costs offset by higher finance payments. Finally, just want to say that getting solar PV was not based on having an EV but on a desire to reduce my emissions and reduce my bills in retirement (a few years off yet). We have a plan to make our house as cheap to run as possible to help eek out the retirement funds.

New Download Links: I have uploaded the file to a couple of my cloud services, and no password is required. Give them a try and let me know if they are working okay for you. The first link will likely become unavailable when it hits a bandwidth limit so best to download ASAP. https://e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZVfN9Zh62r0cJ7y4YQMaldlQMJxbP78tTV Hopefully this link should work okay: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rT0eItntrx6zeUz0dMAnzpBKL5Ktswg7/view?usp=share_link If requests become to much I will likely have to restrict downloads but for the time being I'll keep them live and un-restricted.

Update: I've just had my Year 2 / 20,000 mile service carried out by Platinum Skoda, Bath. The vehicle has only done just over 7k miles. Having discussed with the Service Manager what had to be done to maintain warranty, it boiled down to: 1. Oil Service Inspection - essentially engine oil and filter change plus general vehicle check. 2. Brake fluid change. 3. Pollen filter replacement. The Service Manager explained that until recently the first brake fluid change was after 3 years then every 2 years thereafter. He told me that Skoda has now changed it to blanket every 2 years in order to align with electric Skodas which have 2 yearly service intervals. Apparently, the original 3 years caused all sorts of problems with the electric cars as they were needing just brake fluid changes every alternate year (3, 5,7 etc). Seems a plausible change with the manufacturer taking the 'safe' option. I also asked when the Haldex should have its oil changed - which caused a lot of head scratching! No one really knew so I asked them to do it as an extra. I know the DSG is on mileage only (60k I think) but I now know of 2 dealer-serviced Yetis well out of warranty which have had Haldex issues. The dealers had 'forgotten' to ever change the oil. I have to say that Platinum's prices were not unreasonable and were considerably less than the 'standard' prices quoted by the selling dealer (Heritage Skoda) who, incidentally, tried to tell me I needed an air-con service too. Add the exceptional customer service on the day and the complimentary wash and interior valet and it wasn't as bad an experience as I was expecting.

I have emailed Skoda Customer Services twice and tweeted them once about this without a response. It is confusing to have reports of traffic messages working when using connected services which I agree uses a completely different service. I can confirm that I have not subscribed to Skoda Smartlink a service that I always thought should be free - but that is a different issue.

Normal DOT4 or DOT5.1 will be just fine. The "ESP" fluid to be compatible with ABS etc is just a slightly thinner than normal brake fluid, this is to allow the ESP and ABS to operate fully in extremely cold temperatures, so unless you live somehwere really cold it is not an issue and normal DOT4 or DOT5.1 is just fine. Cheers, Guy.